I'm loving this KE / SE series, as someone who just got a Ender 3 V3 SE as his first printer, the timing couldn't have been better. I didn't think I'd enjoy tinkering with the printer.
That's great! I have probably 2 more videos coming for this printer, maybe 3. The goal is to get this printer to a point where it can compete with just about any bed slinger, or maybe just maybe some CoreXYs as well. I like to tinker, no doubt, I love the challenge and I like to design, so it's all good for me. Making the videos really slows down the process, but hey... what can ya do?
I've had my KE since January and I made a similar fixture back in February with 15mm aluminum rods and fixtures that attache on top of the gantry and below the base through those tiny M3 screws under. Cool to see a fully 3d printed version! Adding these fixtures for sure improves the print quality quite a bit.
I'm not sure if I'm the first person to do this, what I was shooting for was a joint that could not come apart in the direction that the loads were applied, it happens to look really good too. I think it just could have been a tiny bit tighter, I was using 0.08mm clearance, and I needed 0.05mm instead for the perfect fit. Such a small difference but with those shallow angled tapers, that's all you need to make it work. I'm making a video about it to share how I did it in more detail and we're of course going to test the joint as well, since it's fun to break things to learn.
Oof those curved sliding dovetails are so satisfying. Pretty extensive mod, but very beefy and industrial looking! As always, fun to see your iterative process. And now we can add the M5 lock nuts. ;)
It was more challenging than I expected! What came out of it was a few innovative ideas that might be useful. A fun project and it looks great, unfortunately I still need to work on the extruder and that's even more challenging. I was having so much trouble with that nut, the other side went in first-try.
Joined on Patreon; the amount of work to design all this and give it away is wild. AND it all fit! The printing improvement was massive on my KE which is my first printer; thanks!
The amount of work you're putting into the KE is crazy. I thought the KE was going to be great for me but after watching your KE upgrade series, I think I'm just going to get an A1 or P1S even though I don't necessarily agree with their business model.
I am relatively new to 3d printing. I have an Ender 3 V3 KE and have been very happy with it. So far I am not that aware or critical about the quality of my prints. I have not seen the need for the upgrades you have done. I will say if I do decide to do any I will probably use yours. I like the way you do them. They are very clean and professional looking. I have seen lots of pictures of stabilizer arms, but yours are far and above the best looking least obtrusive. Keep the upgrades coming!
Excellent video did the print quality improve I am not happy with the print quality of my under 3 V3 SE I hope this will improve the quality of my print also I want to be sure that this kit will work on the SE thank you for your time
I'll have 2 more videos coming for this printer, I still have an extrusion related problem, I need to figure out if it's the extruder or if it's the current coming to the extruder motor or perhaps something else. It's funny that it was my first thought that the extruder was the problem and after upgrading everything else, I'm coming right back to it. I believe the SE and KE printers have the same frame/base the steel plate below the bed on the SE has larger cutouts and it doesn't run Klipper unless you have the sonic pad I believe. This upgrade should work well with the SE, but if there are any changes, just let me know and I can adjust as needed.
that's a really cool design, I especially liked the curved dovetail joint upgrading a 3D printer with printed parts gives a special kind of satisfaction.
Love your experiense :) I got my first 3d printer about one week ago. a Ender 3 KE. Soon found the wobbeling problem. But come to a different, but not nearly as fleksible/elegant solution. But much faster, cheeper, simpler. The problem seems to be the weight of the spool. So by simply put the spool on a fixture on the wall, above the printer, improved a lot... But of course, that means that the printer is stationary... And yes, there will be some wobbeling still, but FAR less. The upgrade with linear rails. That will I do thoug
Duuuuuuuude! This is god teir design! I've seen the threaded rod gantry supports for a while but they look a little.... Cobbled together. This not only looks rock solid but i think it makes the se series actually look better somehow.
Thanks for that thing, amazing design. If there is nothing similar on the internet, or anything made with rods, than i litterality had a dream about this while sleeping.
Thanks, I've tried to come up with something that solves the problem, looks good and it's too expensive. I went through a few design changes to get to this point, ,and it turned out nice. It's not as simple to install, but if I can do it multiple times without losing the rest of my hair, I'm sure it's not too bad for anyone else. That's funny you had a dream about it, I also have dreams of 3D printing, it's probably a sign that we have a bit of a problem :)
@@NeedItMakeItnice sprinkle of self irony, I think when dreams come to reality is amazing. Keep your printers printing, channel pumping, ideas flowing and maybe hairs growing.
@@sekermakes You've got it! More blood flow to the brain must mean hair growth... I'm onto the next video already, and I have at least 10 more planned after that, the problem is that every time I have a conversation I get more ideas. I think the best way to solve the problem is to learn to make videos on a subject far faster.
This sort of stuff put me of 3D printing forever because it just seems so focussed on 3D printing to 3D print. I got an SE on a whim when it was on sale at a shop I wandered into and I've been printing stuff stock without any problem and no tweaking of anything and I feel like 3D printing is finally useful. Today I printed some desk grommets for a custom charging drawer and it was cool, had a problem, had a 3D printer, solved the problem with no fuss.
Nice upgrade. In the future, I will make it for my Ender 3 v3 se, but for now, I have other upgrades to make as linear x and input shaper. But when I upgrade the x stepper to reach high speeds, I will definitively make it.
Bolted joints at the ends and added that brace to the arm, but then there's a simple glued joint right in the middle of the primary arm. That curved dovetail is very cool, but you should make it long enough to add a thru bolt like the ends. The added brace is 4 additional parts and more disassembly of the printer and likely negligible improvement to the primary arm. One single arm per side would achieve the same result with much less effort. If there is deflection in that long arm, then it could be better solved with larger cross section in the middle.
Nice! I've been staring at the kits on AliExpress that do the same thing, but I like that you could just print one (something I hadn't considered, lol).
this is just so incredibly complex. Threaded rod connected from the top of the frame to the body allows infinite adjustment to get the frame square and stop any movement. Also get rid of the spool from the top of the frame that's just stupid having it up there adding extra weight and "sway" to the frame
We have similarly equipped shops, including what looks to me like a NYW woodworking bench😀 Love that curved sliding dovetail, very cool. Were those crossfeed nuts there at the end?
Nice! Little by little I'm working on upgrading my shop, most of my woodworking tools are pretty old, but still work just fine. I recently bought that nice bench, it needs a bit of TLC and a filler for the tool holder slot so I can use the whole bench on occasion, but it's super handy. I'd recommend a bench like that over an ordinary bench on wheels any day. You've got it right! Those are the cross-slide and compound nuts from my Southbend 9A Lathe. The cross-slide is terribly worn, both the nut and the screw. I have a new screw, now I'm working towards either getting a new set made, or trying to do it myself.... Buying them is so expensive for what you get, but without them, using a sloppy lathe is just no fun.
thank you for all these!! the ender 3 v3 ke is my first 3d printer and all these mods will definitely help make the printer better. i have already bought the parts for linear rail and looking forward to install it during the summer break
Nice, I'll have at least 2 more videos for this printer, one for the plate replacement for under the bed, and the other for the extruder. I'll need to do some final results as well in those videos, unfortunately I can't do it until the other problems are solved.
The CAD work on this is great (there's a lot of interesting details), but I really don't get the design or overall idea. The attachment point at the top can slide (it's tight now, but for how long?), and I assume that's why you added the brace into the corner. The effect of the corner brace depends on the bending stiffness rather than tension/compression, which is inefficient, and requires adjustment because it's over-constrained. IMO it would have been better to find a way to attach the top mount rigidly to the frame (say, a couple of set-screws). This would provide the necessary adjustment to get it square, and you wouldn't need the corner brace. Anyway, have some engagement :)
For sure, it's by no means perfect, and if someone wants to modify it by adding a set-screw or bolt the top adapters through, by all means, perhaps even gluing them in place. The lower they are the better control you have over the angle, and it looks far better than strapping something on top. It would have been better to make this from carbon rod or steel or even aluminum. The goal was to provide this to everyone regardless of their level. I've suggested that this be made from ABS/PC PETG-CF because of their stiffness, PLA in an enclosure wouldn't be wise. Great points, thanks for your thoughts!
I am so excited to do this to my printer! Great job. I really wish I knew how to do what you do. Amazing to me. I get that some people already know how to do this and to them this may not be as impressive, but I love the thought of creating and making something functional. What do you use to design your parts? What program? I’ve got fusion 360 but I haven’t had a chance to start learning it yet. I have no experience with CAD other than a couple things I made in Tinkercad. Love it. Please keep up the fantastic work.
I'm considering the new Ender 3 V3 with metal frame. I'm guessing it's going to be stiffer and a better machine, but it's great to see your solution. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos.
This is a much needed upgrade to the SE and KE. I Braced my SE a few months ago and saw drastic improvements. My KE has been fine but will definitely be using the Ecosystem your creating. My SE is a variety of different upgrades you seem to be making one by one for the KE/SE. The linear rail swap on x and Y setup and gantry brace are the best upgrades that showed the best print quality improvements. Plus the new flowtech instsll and now it's an awesome machine rather than a cheap budget printer.
I agree, with this printer the runout sensor needs to be relocated to the extruder so that the filament doesn't need to first loop up on top and then down to the extruder, but that's possible for sure.
For sure! I will do this in an upcoming video, unfortunately I have yet to fix the extrusion issues and any tests would not show definitive results until that problem is corrected.
As much I appreciate your idea but, creality have released the se,ke,v3 in what 6 or so months without any stabiliser support. Yet now they bring out v3 plus with gantry stabliers . Which for those that have the other printers could feel hard done by not thinking of doing this to the SE,KE,V3. Unless they can come with upgrade for them, which they could.cos they obviously have for the v3 plus.
Hey there! Thanks for your awesome work! I already messaged you on Maker World, but didn't hear back, so I'm dropping a comment here too. I'm interested in printing your gantry support but want to tweak it a bit-adding extra supports where I think they're crucial and smoothing out some edges. Could you share the original project source files (I think you use Fusion 360, so .f3d files)? Having those would really help me make the changes. Afterward, I can send you the updated files so you can decide if my additions are beneficial for updating your models on Maker World. What do you think?
Thanks! You're better off getting a better printer from the start, I'd suggest a CoreXY, there are so many benefits. This series is really meant for anyone with these printers already and it can provide some solutions or some ideas anyway. I don't think bed slingers make much sense these days, moving a massive bed at high speed won't be able to compete with moving a small-ish head and rods on the CoreXY.
I had similar issue with other printer. I took 3$ aluminium bar, mesured it, cut it, drill it and screw it in. Around 30min work and it looked like it was there from the start.
Sounds great! Sadly with this printer there are no good places to screw it into, but the bar idea is a good solution and maybe have 3D printed end pieces to receive it.
@NeedItMakeIt, hey! Thank you for great video. Could you please share 3d design howto for these rotating dovetails? I've seen video about frame build with dovetails - it was great, but these seems much more complicated. And I'm sure you have much more 3d design for printing tips up your sleeve.
@@NeedItMakeIt There are 1000x ways to reach a goal. You have shown one way. Sure you can also show a steel rod version in combination with 3D print. You can also do a "forged" carbon fiber version or a wood version. I mean in the end the question is what is the stiffness you really need and how much money and effort it should cost ? I am sure with a metal or carbon fiber version the stiffness would be greater but is it really worth it though ? What you can do is... are you familiar with the "Morphological box" ? You can brainstrom some ideas like different geometries and materials and combine them to see what would be best. Show your viewers what you considered and what you disproved of and why. I do this too as an internal dialogue, you can show this in a matrix overview and choose YOUR path but this way I could have a visual representation of your design decision. Since you are very active with your viewers you might want to clue them in maybe they can come up with their own ideas ? Maybe you come up with the ideas and they create a combination ? something like that. Do you know what I mean? Should I make an example ?
I just so happen to have a video in-the-works at this very moment, I've had a few requests so I shall show you how and then you can take it from there. It's a super nice joint and it doesn't need much clearance compared to a non-tapered joint. That video is probably going to be for mid-week next week or next weekend!
Sure can, and I am making the video right now, I've had several requests to show how it's done, it's pretty straight forward, but I'm going to show you a few different options and you can pick which ones work best for you.
I saw a different video that tested different solutions to fix vibration related quality issues with a Ender 3 v2. What worked best then was not stiffening up the printer but just adding vibration absorbing (3d printed) feet to the printer. Did you ever try that?
The error in the holes on the right side is due to an error in the design of the blocks to reinforce the base you put on the other video? Excellent work!
I soooo wanted to create some 3d printed versions, but it would have increased the complexity level, great idea through! Maybe I need to put some time into a 3d printed turnbuckle?
@@NeedItMakeIt - I would think a couple of threaded ends and then the turnbuckle nut would be fine somewhere within the printed long support. Then maybe print a snap cover to hide the hardware and make it blend in. I am not criticizing by any means....it just popped into my head when you said people have said there are differences in the gaps.
great work my friend, I'm thinking about buying the new Ender 3 V3 Plus, I hope this aspect is resolved because it already includes arms to avoid this effect.
Thank you! I have one of the smaller new E3V3 printers with the metal frame, which I've been testing and they've fixed just about every problem. I'm still having one little issue and it's not bad, but the extrusion seems to be not quite as consistent as I think it should be. Maybe I've been spoiled by the QIDI Q1 and the Bambu X1C. I have more testing to do as well, but I think it might be related to the extruder design, it is still only supported on one side of the extruder gears, allowing some movement, it's very hard to know since I'd need a glass panel to see what's going on inside.
I still wounder how you get the perfect finish to your parts, i've been printing for some time now but i still can't figure out how to get the finish you get. Do you have any tips i coul use?
I had to send back mine and get a replacement... which I sent back the day after. The z plane was leaning backwards and, every time I disassembled it, the threads in the aluminum got worse and worse.
Hi, thanks for another great video! Personally I already have a reinforcement, I found the model before your video, but it is true that it can greatly help especially at high speed. In your opinion, what speed and acceleration should be used for PLA, PETG and ABS/AS to get maximum print quality? Print speed is not a problem for me. Thanks in advance for your help :)
Hola, en mi caso tenia mas desviacion en los perfiles, pero no queria perforar y dañar la impresora por garantia, asi que hice el diseño de Hapedevee thing:6516352 y logre cuadrar, luego nivele la cama con ciertos oring (Pero use el Remix que es mas facil sujetar) printables 733411 y logre tener mi cama casi todo a 0.0
You didn't show how you squared the gantry to the bed, and in particular where the provision for fine adjustment was. Surely you didn't just move the top blocks up and down?
How is the CR-10 SE model? I searched for your previous videos but couldn't find a review for it. CR-10 SE has liner rails in both axes. I wonder if it is better than the ender 3 v3 ke model. Can you share your ideas please?
Great video, but if you go to this extend, why not make the arms go both to the front and back ? maybe its a little over kill but it would probably stop the wobble completely
That's true, the metal framed V3 seems pretty stiff, I can't say whether that'll be the case for the Plus-sized model though. There are some free threaded holes on the back of the metal frame though... maybe it could get an upgrade at some point. I'd want to do it in metal... or perhaps wood though.
@@Reds3DPrinting It depends on the type of wood, something like maple, or ash, anything hard would work well. Even though I'm a Woodworker, I don't show it much because it's not really something everyone can do, but if you think it would be interesting, I can try to include it in some videos. The combo of printing and wood is super appealing and I love the look of the combo, especially black prints with something with some nice grain, like Cherry.
Great video! Just out of curiosity, have you found the solution to the poor print quality on the KE? Been having very similar print quality to your previous videos
I'm working on an extruder solution for the printer, we have a solid X, a solid Y, and now the Z.. the only thing left is the extruder and extruder motor, possibly the hot end/nozzle comes into play a little bit as well, but that's not my impression from what I've been seeing. I'll have something to release in the next few weeks...as long as I have solved the problem!
@@NeedItMakeIt awesome, looking forward to that. Have you had any issues with the belts rubbing the edge of the bearings, specifically on the ends of the x axis?
@@CalvinBarnard-ky4wz There isn't really any guide system, just the edges of the idler pulleys, so yeah they do rub a little bit there, it's the same with most of the printers no matter which brand, it just seems to be the way they've decided to track the belt. If you watch the Core XY Printers as the belts move back and fourth, they raise and lower quite a bit, but it seems to be irrelevant as far as I can tell.
I don't really do prints for other people, with shipping and material etc. it isn't justifiable at this time. I'm sure there are sites you can have models printed from someone local. If there isn't a site like that, there should be so you can save on shipping.
Nice, let me know how it goes and also if you're seeing any extrusion related issues like I've shown in the previous videos, I want to know if this is something that only I have a problem with, or is this everyone.
I was going to do this however after I rotated the spool 90° the shaking is not as bad, also after i updated the input with the g sensor it has begun countering its vibration better.
It's tough to pickup on sarcasm here, I'll assume that was your goal. You can do as you please, I'd tend to want to wait for the next gen of Bambu printers though. The reason for these videos is to help people who have purchased this printer and require solutions to make it more reliable. If you weren't aware, I have lots of videos showing the issues with this printer and I've done what I can to find solutions. Have a good one.
I would recommend getting an enclosed printer, the best one that I have tested so far at a good price is the QIDI Q1. I made a review video and some follow up videos on it as well. The price point is not far off and you'll have a much better experience with a printer like that. I started with bed slingers, but I always had warpage issues and had to pay close attention to the room temperature, I don't even think about it when using an enclosed printer. I have a review video on the E3V3 that I just released a week+ ago and it shows that issue. If you want the best print quality, the Bambu printers and QIDI seem to be at the top, Creality is still struggling a bit with extrusion for some reason.
I would really like a 3D printer to play with. I am torn between the Ender 3 V3 SE and the V3 KE, what are the major differences beside the price? Also do the upgrades you have done cost a lot? Or should I just save up and get the Bambu Labs A1, that everybody says just prints out of the box? P.S. I could afford the 3V3 SE now. The V3 KE in a couple of months and the Bambu February nest year.
@@billy.the.maker. With all due respect does being faster mean a better printer? So for the $65 price difference between the SE and KE what do you get?
@@ian1957ruth You got better hot end 300c (you can print ABS and other high temp filaments), Klipper, linear X axis, and much more. Look at comparisons there is no reason to not spend the extra 65$
So I am looking to upgrade to the Ender 3 KE from a basic Ender 3 and want to know if these series of modifications are NEEDED for this printer? Or are these modifications more for the longevity of the machine? Am I safe to just unbox, setup, and start printing? I absolutely needed to do some modifications to the ender 3 to get some good prints but I want to know if that is the case here as well? I'm looking for faster print times without (or negligible) loss of quality. I print a variety of things from household Q.O.L things, to toys, to D&D Miniatures. I just want to know that I am spending my money wisely. I also don't want to dive into resin printers right now (maybe some years down the line). So, any advice?
Maybe I'm biased but I don't really recommend any bed slingers anymore. Trying to move the mass of the bed along with the mass of the part you're printing on the bed has always been something that didn't make much sense. You'd also need some kind of enclosure for the best results. I've used a blanket, which looks awful, but it does work alright. Personally I have far better results with CoreXY printers. They're faster, more accurate, have less mass to move around at high speed, less ringing issues etc. I'm not sure if you've made up your mind about the direction you'd like to go, but I'd say try to get a CoreXY format if you can, there are lots of new ones coming on the market at a reasonable price. I'd recommend an enclosed one as well, you'll have better success this way as well. For the DND stuff, you can use a CoreXY with a 0.2mm nozzle, but they're better to be printed with a resin printer for the high detail you might want. I hope that helps a bit!
@@NeedItMakeIt My price range is fairly low for printers at around $300. I really don't want to work with resin right now because of the ventilation needed (I live in a hot/humid place), so it would needlessly heat up my room to open a window and I don't want to mount anything in the window for now. So I'm really stuck using FDM printers. So, are there any FDM printers that match the performance of the KE for the price? Sorry for asking so many questions.
@@whozawhatzit0 No problem! If that's the case I might recommend that you look at the Bambu A1 Mini, it's small but it is precise and since you're printing mainly smaller parts it might suit you pretty well. The bed being so small doesn't really have the same issues with slinging a massive plate like the larger printers would. I think it might be in and around your price point and there are options to upgrade to color. I don't have one myself, but I've heard quite a lot of good things about it. I just checked and they've come down in price to 249 without their AMS, so it could be a good option. The KE quality isn't exceptional, you really need to upgrade the printer before it can be, with the A1 Mini there are no upgrades needed.
@@NeedItMakeIt So does the Bambu A1 mini have the same feature set as the KE? (Auto calibration/Z offset, wifi printing, and so forth? And does it at least print at a faster speed than my Ender 3? I'm sick of waiting all day and night for a small set of mini's to print lol. By the way, thank you so much for all of your help and advice. I've been so stressed out trying to figure all of this out, so this has been a huge help!
@@whozawhatzit0 The Bottom line is that it is an overall better printer. Some people don't like that the software is "Closed" so you can't tinker with it. It has more features than you list and the ability to add upgrades which most printers do not have. Have a look on their site and see if it would suit your case well.
You've got it! Southbend 9A I'm trying to decide if I want to get the cross-slide and compound nuts made up or if I can do it myself and I wanted to print them first to get the fit close and to understand the ACME sizes they've used. They are unfortunately non-standard sizes these days. We have 3/8-10 and 7/16-10 ACME, except the pitch diameters don't seem to match anything commonly available these days. I've been thinking about doing some bronze/brass casing and machining new ones myself, but that's going to be hard for me at my amateurish metal working level.
Hi NeedItMakeIt, love your designs. Is there any chance I could get the step file for mounts that screw onto the back of the body? I'm working on a cable chain mod which would connect onto this part. Of course will share if it works out? Cheers
Can you shoot me an email? I'll star it and see what I can do! Needitmakeit@gmail.com I get a lot of messages and I am trying to get to every one of them, but it is not always possible.
I mean yah, they look good, but its a bit overengineered... I solved it with two M8 rods, 8 nuts and 4 anchors for the extrusions... about 8 years ago with my tornado (and that one was crooked AF)...
I guess I wasn't clear with the goal, I've made this in such a way that anyone with this printer can make, regardless of their skillset with machinery. It would have been far easier to do this from steel rods or even aluminum. Valid point, it's not the direction I went even though it would have been about 10X easier for me to do.
@@NeedItMakeIt just to be clear, I meant no sass or anything, I like the looks of them, as said, but considering the factor ease of use: my tornado was not reliable and I was a beginner back then (kinda still am) but I was aware I need as much precision as I can get- and being such a newbie, calibration was a proper struggle then, but I knew my way around with cutting threaded rods, so it was a no brainer for me, not needing extras like perhaps inserts or precision printing. I like your vids as they explain a lot hence don't get my comment wrong. I commented in case someone with my "skillset" from 2016 feels a bit overwhelmed/scared. Cheers!
Pytanie po co komplikować. Skoro można użyć prętu gwintowanego, kilku kątowników metalowych, i do gięcie pod wymaganym kontem oraz skręcić śrubami. Kolejnym ważnym aspektem jest mała płyta betonowa do której przymocowana jest drukarka sztywno, i to bardzo pomaga a może nawet zdecydowanie bardziej niż usztywnienie ramienia
Nice, but easier to just run a PTFE tube up, remove the spool holder and print from a dry box. The filament is most of the problem. Still requires a couple items to be printed of course.
Yup, good option for sure, I'd prefer to see the runout sensor on the head or within the head as well, it doesn't make sense to run up and then back down if it can be avoided.
@@NeedItMakeIt I just printed a feed to test the concept of pulling from a dry box. Got a few options out there. For sure the run-out sensor needs to be handled. Printing another that will allow it to still be used, but very wasteful in the path.
It should work well coming from the box, I've done some testing on pulling through a pretty long tube and it doesn't seem to be enough friction to cause any problems... until maybe we get to 10+ feet of tubing anyway. It would depend a bit on how the spool is rotating, I've found one of my dryers causes the spool to rotate with quite a bit or resistance, while the other has very little. I don't find I use the runout sensor at all do you?
@@NeedItMakeIt I've printed a couple solutions and both are working fine. The shaking does go way down with the 1kg spool out of the picture. I'm happy with this solution and it doesn't require any mods to the printer. Well not permanent mods at least.
@@NeedItMakeIt I don't use the runout sensor. Might be more of an issue if I'm pulling from a filament dryer. Some are hard to see in and know what you have left.
@NeedItMakeIt no, I'm open to any suggestions. Please thank you. I thought the KE because I want something future proof a little, I can improve, and also, from what i see and read, Klipper is the board to have. Buy the SE and extras to KE spec come out able the same. But and suggestions great fully received. 👍
@@philj1975 At this point there is so much competition, that I wouldn't go with a bed slinger, they're very limiting on what you can produce, a CoreXY enclosed printer if far more capable, and produces better results. The QIDI Q1 Pro is an excellent printer for the price, it may be the best overall that I've found so far, with the Bambu X1C/P1 series printers also competing for top spot. The X1C is far more expensive of course. The QIDI Q1 Pro has features that the other printers don't have and will give you lots of options for later on. I have a video review of the QIDI Q1 already to show how it performs. If you have a moment, check that one out and see what you think.
@NeedItMakeIt i have looked at this one as well, but I will have to wait as not available in the EU yet. I'll wait and see then that it's. It is a nice machine and I do like it as well. Thank you for help and option @NeedItMakeIt
Yes, the problem with these printers is in the stands; they stand on a plastic case, which becomes deformed when the temperature changes. Well done author, the solution is correct, strengthening the racks with supports. If the author doesn’t mind, then here is also a good solution for supports, there will be a link to the files: ua-cam.com/video/6jJuzklzp74/v-deo.html
This printer isn't so nice for input shaping, it lacks the g-sensors from factory. I'd need to buy the kit and install and re-run to gather the results. I'm willing to do it though.
Where can I find the printed bed slinger? The only problem I'm having with the printer atm is a kinda uneven layer height I have both the linear rails and gantry supports
Do you mean the replacement for the steel plate below the bed? If so, I have to fine-tune a few details and then I'll be ready to release it to everyone.
This printer doesn't have the sensor on it, and maybe it would help a little bit, the sensor needs to be positioned on the X, measurements taken, then the Y and the same process is run, there is no active vibration dampening on this printer, which means that when the mass of the print changes, so does the vibration. I've read that the results of the sensor for this printer are inconclusive. I'd still like to try it myself to be sure, but I have a feeling that what I've read about it is right.
I'm loving this KE / SE series, as someone who just got a Ender 3 V3 SE as his first printer, the timing couldn't have been better. I didn't think I'd enjoy tinkering with the printer.
That's great! I have probably 2 more videos coming for this printer, maybe 3. The goal is to get this printer to a point where it can compete with just about any bed slinger, or maybe just maybe some CoreXYs as well. I like to tinker, no doubt, I love the challenge and I like to design, so it's all good for me. Making the videos really slows down the process, but hey... what can ya do?
Just got one my self I love my new hobby
Legend has it he’s still adding those M5 locknuts 😂
Still working at getting them in, the curse of the round fingers...
I've had my KE since January and I made a similar fixture back in February with 15mm aluminum rods and fixtures that attache on top of the gantry and below the base through those tiny M3 screws under. Cool to see a fully 3d printed version! Adding these fixtures for sure improves the print quality quite a bit.
What size were the rods? Do you have a file for the printed parts? I have access to breass and aluminum rods.
I really like that circular action locking joint. I've never really come across it before, but it seems to be an excellent approach. Love your work!
I'm not sure if I'm the first person to do this, what I was shooting for was a joint that could not come apart in the direction that the loads were applied, it happens to look really good too. I think it just could have been a tiny bit tighter, I was using 0.08mm clearance, and I needed 0.05mm instead for the perfect fit. Such a small difference but with those shallow angled tapers, that's all you need to make it work. I'm making a video about it to share how I did it in more detail and we're of course going to test the joint as well, since it's fun to break things to learn.
Amazing! Thank you so much for all your hard work on these mods. Greetings from a 3D printer KE n00b in South Africa.
Oof those curved sliding dovetails are so satisfying. Pretty extensive mod, but very beefy and industrial looking! As always, fun to see your iterative process. And now we can add the M5 lock nuts. ;)
It was more challenging than I expected! What came out of it was a few innovative ideas that might be useful. A fun project and it looks great, unfortunately I still need to work on the extruder and that's even more challenging. I was having so much trouble with that nut, the other side went in first-try.
Joined on Patreon; the amount of work to design all this and give it away is wild. AND it all fit! The printing improvement was massive on my KE which is my first printer; thanks!
Made a similar structure a few weeks ago for my KE and honestly the biggest improvement was when I finally printed a mod to get the spool off the top
Nice, that spool on the top wobbling around like it just don't care
The amount of work you're putting into the KE is crazy. I thought the KE was going to be great for me but after watching your KE upgrade series, I think I'm just going to get an A1 or P1S even though I don't necessarily agree with their business model.
I've got an se and it works very well no complaints at all. The A1 is hard to beat though
Beautiful work with nice connection between each parts !
I am relatively new to 3d printing. I have an Ender 3 V3 KE and have been very happy with it.
So far I am not that aware or critical about the quality of my prints. I have not seen the need for the upgrades you have done. I will say if I do decide to do any I will probably use yours. I like the way you do them. They are very clean and professional looking. I have seen lots of pictures of stabilizer arms, but yours are far and above the best looking least obtrusive.
Keep the upgrades coming!
Excellent video did the print quality improve I am not happy with the print quality of my under 3 V3 SE I hope this will improve the quality of my print also I want to be sure that this kit will work on the SE thank you for your time
I'll have 2 more videos coming for this printer, I still have an extrusion related problem, I need to figure out if it's the extruder or if it's the current coming to the extruder motor or perhaps something else. It's funny that it was my first thought that the extruder was the problem and after upgrading everything else, I'm coming right back to it.
I believe the SE and KE printers have the same frame/base the steel plate below the bed on the SE has larger cutouts and it doesn't run Klipper unless you have the sonic pad I believe. This upgrade should work well with the SE, but if there are any changes, just let me know and I can adjust as needed.
@@NeedItMakeIt Your first thought was its the extruder. So you did everything but fix the extruder? Your right it is funny.
Ever subscribed to a channel just because you find the creator so amiable? Great video to watch while I wait for my KE to arrive.
Always top notch designs.
I always learn something new from you.
Keep it up!!😉
Thank you very much, I try to add some little fun tricks in there, just some neat ideas that maybe other people could find useful!
that's a really cool design, I especially liked the curved dovetail joint
upgrading a 3D printer with printed parts gives a special kind of satisfaction.
Love your experiense :) I got my first 3d printer about one week ago. a Ender 3 KE. Soon found the wobbeling problem. But come to a different, but not nearly as fleksible/elegant solution. But much faster, cheeper, simpler.
The problem seems to be the weight of the spool. So by simply put the spool on a fixture on the wall, above the printer, improved a lot... But of course, that means that the printer is stationary... And yes, there will be some wobbeling still, but FAR less.
The upgrade with linear rails. That will I do thoug
Duuuuuuuude! This is god teir design! I've seen the threaded rod gantry supports for a while but they look a little.... Cobbled together. This not only looks rock solid but i think it makes the se series actually look better somehow.
Thanks for that thing, amazing design.
If there is nothing similar on the internet, or anything made with rods, than i litterality had a dream about this while sleeping.
Thanks, I've tried to come up with something that solves the problem, looks good and it's too expensive. I went through a few design changes to get to this point, ,and it turned out nice. It's not as simple to install, but if I can do it multiple times without losing the rest of my hair, I'm sure it's not too bad for anyone else.
That's funny you had a dream about it, I also have dreams of 3D printing, it's probably a sign that we have a bit of a problem :)
@@NeedItMakeItnice sprinkle of self irony, I think when dreams come to reality is amazing.
Keep your printers printing, channel pumping, ideas flowing and maybe hairs growing.
@@sekermakes You've got it!
More blood flow to the brain must mean hair growth...
I'm onto the next video already, and I have at least 10 more planned after that, the problem is that every time I have a conversation I get more ideas. I think the best way to solve the problem is to learn to make videos on a subject far faster.
This sort of stuff put me of 3D printing forever because it just seems so focussed on 3D printing to 3D print. I got an SE on a whim when it was on sale at a shop I wandered into and I've been printing stuff stock without any problem and no tweaking of anything and I feel like 3D printing is finally useful. Today I printed some desk grommets for a custom charging drawer and it was cool, had a problem, had a 3D printer, solved the problem with no fuss.
some people like to tinker, upgrade etc. Same with cars. I don't know why you are so upset. Buy a printer and print what you want...
The rotating dove tails is such a clever idea!
Nice upgrade. In the future, I will make it for my Ender 3 v3 se, but for now, I have other upgrades to make as linear x and input shaper. But when I upgrade the x stepper to reach high speeds, I will definitively make it.
nice!
Finally something to praise my old bulky CR-10v3 cow for bringing that from factory
Superbe travail de modélisation et de conception, bravo
Merci Beaucoup Mon ami!
Bolted joints at the ends and added that brace to the arm, but then there's a simple glued joint right in the middle of the primary arm. That curved dovetail is very cool, but you should make it long enough to add a thru bolt like the ends. The added brace is 4 additional parts and more disassembly of the printer and likely negligible improvement to the primary arm. One single arm per side would achieve the same result with much less effort. If there is deflection in that long arm, then it could be better solved with larger cross section in the middle.
Nice! I've been staring at the kits on AliExpress that do the same thing, but I like that you could just print one (something I hadn't considered, lol).
would love to see some benchmarks between before and after the brackets. Definitely considering doing this aswell
this is just so incredibly complex. Threaded rod connected from the top of the frame to the body allows infinite adjustment to get the frame square and stop any movement. Also get rid of the spool from the top of the frame that's just stupid having it up there adding extra weight and "sway" to the frame
Can you explain how to make these adjustments to get the frame square?
We have similarly equipped shops, including what looks to me like a NYW woodworking bench😀 Love that curved sliding dovetail, very cool. Were those crossfeed nuts there at the end?
Nice! Little by little I'm working on upgrading my shop, most of my woodworking tools are pretty old, but still work just fine. I recently bought that nice bench, it needs a bit of TLC and a filler for the tool holder slot so I can use the whole bench on occasion, but it's super handy. I'd recommend a bench like that over an ordinary bench on wheels any day.
You've got it right! Those are the cross-slide and compound nuts from my Southbend 9A Lathe. The cross-slide is terribly worn, both the nut and the screw. I have a new screw, now I'm working towards either getting a new set made, or trying to do it myself.... Buying them is so expensive for what you get, but without them, using a sloppy lathe is just no fun.
Mike is MY HERO!!! I will name my first born after MIKE!
HAHA, well thank you very much, but I'm only trying to solve problems and post them to help anyone with the same problems.
I'm watching your UA-cam in Korea.
It was a really informative video and thank you so much.
thank you for all these!! the ender 3 v3 ke is my first 3d printer and all these mods will definitely help make the printer better. i have already bought the parts for linear rail and looking forward to install it during the summer break
Nice, I'll have at least 2 more videos for this printer, one for the plate replacement for under the bed, and the other for the extruder. I'll need to do some final results as well in those videos, unfortunately I can't do it until the other problems are solved.
The CAD work on this is great (there's a lot of interesting details), but I really don't get the design or overall idea. The attachment point at the top can slide (it's tight now, but for how long?), and I assume that's why you added the brace into the corner. The effect of the corner brace depends on the bending stiffness rather than tension/compression, which is inefficient, and requires adjustment because it's over-constrained.
IMO it would have been better to find a way to attach the top mount rigidly to the frame (say, a couple of set-screws). This would provide the necessary adjustment to get it square, and you wouldn't need the corner brace. Anyway, have some engagement :)
For sure, it's by no means perfect, and if someone wants to modify it by adding a set-screw or bolt the top adapters through, by all means, perhaps even gluing them in place. The lower they are the better control you have over the angle, and it looks far better than strapping something on top. It would have been better to make this from carbon rod or steel or even aluminum. The goal was to provide this to everyone regardless of their level. I've suggested that this be made from ABS/PC PETG-CF because of their stiffness, PLA in an enclosure wouldn't be wise.
Great points, thanks for your thoughts!
The joints you did on the red parts are so cool lol
I am so excited to do this to my printer! Great job. I really wish I knew how to do what you do. Amazing to me. I get that some people already know how to do this and to them this may not be as impressive, but I love the thought of creating and making something functional. What do you use to design your parts? What program? I’ve got fusion 360 but I haven’t had a chance to start learning it yet. I have no experience with CAD other than a couple things I made in Tinkercad. Love it. Please keep up the fantastic work.
Based on his videos I've watched before this, he's using Autodesk Fusion (360).
I'm considering the new Ender 3 V3 with metal frame. I'm guessing it's going to be stiffer and a better machine, but it's great to see your solution. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your videos.
This is a much needed upgrade to the SE and KE. I Braced my SE a few months ago and saw drastic improvements. My KE has been fine but will definitely be using the Ecosystem your creating. My SE is a variety of different upgrades you seem to be making one by one for the KE/SE. The linear rail swap on x and Y setup and gantry brace are the best upgrades that showed the best print quality improvements. Plus the new flowtech instsll and now it's an awesome machine rather than a cheap budget printer.
You should relocate the spool holder next to the pronter, there will be less weight on the top of the frame causing wobble.
I agree, with this printer the runout sensor needs to be relocated to the extruder so that the filament doesn't need to first loop up on top and then down to the extruder, but that's possible for sure.
Amazing upgrade!
I printed a side spool holder for my filament. No more extra weight up top now
I did the same 👍🏻
I was sctually looking for a nice set of braces! Thank you!
It'd be nice to see before and after pictures of parts printed at the same speed
For sure! I will do this in an upcoming video, unfortunately I have yet to fix the extrusion issues and any tests would not show definitive results until that problem is corrected.
filament color looks beautiful
As much I appreciate your idea but, creality have released the se,ke,v3 in what 6 or so months without any stabiliser support. Yet now they bring out v3 plus with gantry stabliers . Which for those that have the other printers could feel hard done by not thinking of doing this to the SE,KE,V3. Unless they can come with upgrade for them, which they could.cos they obviously have for the v3 plus.
Nice work. Creality needs to hire you as a consultant!
I'd be happy to do product testing for them, I am doing it anyway, it's just far too late in the game.
Hey there! Thanks for your awesome work! I already messaged you on Maker World, but didn't hear back, so I'm dropping a comment here too. I'm interested in printing your gantry support but want to tweak it a bit-adding extra supports where I think they're crucial and smoothing out some edges.
Could you share the original project source files (I think you use Fusion 360, so .f3d files)? Having those would really help me make the changes. Afterward, I can send you the updated files so you can decide if my additions are beneficial for updating your models on Maker World. What do you think?
This is bonkers, good job.
I wonder though, at what point are we better off getting a better printer off the factory?
Thanks!
You're better off getting a better printer from the start, I'd suggest a CoreXY, there are so many benefits. This series is really meant for anyone with these printers already and it can provide some solutions or some ideas anyway. I don't think bed slingers make much sense these days, moving a massive bed at high speed won't be able to compete with moving a small-ish head and rods on the CoreXY.
If you already own it, can't exactly hit Ctrl+Z!
I had similar issue with other printer. I took 3$ aluminium bar, mesured it, cut it, drill it and screw it in. Around 30min work and it looked like it was there from the start.
Sounds great! Sadly with this printer there are no good places to screw it into, but the bar idea is a good solution and maybe have 3D printed end pieces to receive it.
@NeedItMakeIt, hey! Thank you for great video.
Could you please share 3d design howto for these rotating dovetails? I've seen video about frame build with dovetails - it was great, but these seems much more complicated.
And I'm sure you have much more 3d design for printing tips up your sleeve.
Good design, well done
Thanks, it seems like people also wanted a steel rod version, I was shooting for a solution for everyone, and I guess you can't please them all.
@@NeedItMakeIt There are 1000x ways to reach a goal. You have shown one way. Sure you can also show a steel rod version in combination with 3D print. You can also do a "forged" carbon fiber version or a wood version. I mean in the end the question is what is the stiffness you really need and how much money and effort it should cost ? I am sure with a metal or carbon fiber version the stiffness would be greater but is it really worth it though ?
What you can do is... are you familiar with the "Morphological box" ? You can brainstrom some ideas like different geometries and materials and combine them to see what would be best.
Show your viewers what you considered and what you disproved of and why. I do this too as an internal dialogue, you can show this in a matrix overview and choose YOUR path but this way I could have a visual representation of your design decision. Since you are very active with your viewers you might want to clue them in maybe they can come up with their own ideas ? Maybe you come up with the ideas and they create a combination ? something like that. Do you know what I mean? Should I make an example ?
Could you make a video of how you design the dovetails for this and Qidi Pro bed frame? They look nice :)
I too would like to see this dovetail design. 👍😎👍
I just so happen to have a video in-the-works at this very moment, I've had a few requests so I shall show you how and then you can take it from there. It's a super nice joint and it doesn't need much clearance compared to a non-tapered joint. That video is probably going to be for mid-week next week or next weekend!
Sure can, and I am making the video right now, I've had several requests to show how it's done, it's pretty straight forward, but I'm going to show you a few different options and you can pick which ones work best for you.
I saw a different video that tested different solutions to fix vibration related quality issues with a Ender 3 v2. What worked best then was not stiffening up the printer but just adding vibration absorbing (3d printed) feet to the printer. Did you ever try that?
The error in the holes on the right side is due to an error in the design of the blocks to reinforce the base you put on the other video?
Excellent work!
If you dont use a trypod and put the 2 versions side by side, i dont think i could tell a difference
I would love a linear rail conversion video for a K1 or K1C if possible!
it looks really good! how does it compare to the original? also how does it compare to the other stabilizer there's on maker worls?
Seems like turnbuckle nuts in there somewhere would allow fine adjustment. Still a cool project.
I soooo wanted to create some 3d printed versions, but it would have increased the complexity level, great idea through! Maybe I need to put some time into a 3d printed turnbuckle?
@@NeedItMakeIt - I would think a couple of threaded ends and then the turnbuckle nut would be fine somewhere within the printed long support. Then maybe print a snap cover to hide the hardware and make it blend in. I am not criticizing by any means....it just popped into my head when you said people have said there are differences in the gaps.
Also applies for the Bambulab A1
great work my friend, I'm thinking about buying the new Ender 3 V3 Plus, I hope this aspect is resolved because it already includes arms to avoid this effect.
Thank you! I have one of the smaller new E3V3 printers with the metal frame, which I've been testing and they've fixed just about every problem. I'm still having one little issue and it's not bad, but the extrusion seems to be not quite as consistent as I think it should be. Maybe I've been spoiled by the QIDI Q1 and the Bambu X1C. I have more testing to do as well, but I think it might be related to the extruder design, it is still only supported on one side of the extruder gears, allowing some movement, it's very hard to know since I'd need a glass panel to see what's going on inside.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thanks for the feedback, I will continue to follow
@@fredydefcon1 Sounds good! I'll have a full review video on the printer, I'm trying to learn a bit more about the extrusion before I finish it up.
@@NeedItMakeIt ok I can't wait for the review 😃
I still wounder how you get the perfect finish to your parts, i've been printing for some time now but i still can't figure out how to get the finish you get. Do you have any tips i coul use?
I have, go to your settings on max axelleration or max speed and adjust it. Try to find some vids
@@moijazsnijderz6515got it i put the first layer speed even lower so now it prints at 10mm/s.
I had to send back mine and get a replacement... which I sent back the day after. The z plane was leaning backwards and, every time I disassembled it, the threads in the aluminum got worse and worse.
Hi, thanks for another great video!
Personally I already have a reinforcement, I found the model before your video, but it is true that it can greatly help especially at high speed.
In your opinion, what speed and acceleration should be used for PLA, PETG and ABS/AS to get maximum print quality? Print speed is not a problem for me.
Thanks in advance for your help :)
I’ve built this, but I can’t get the insert out of the bottom left adapt. Is there a way to increase the clearance? Or can you do so?
Can you send me an email with a picture so I have a better idea and then we can go from there. Needitmakeit@gmail.com
@@NeedItMakeIt I figured it out. I just uploaded the stl into an editing software and fixed it. Thanks though
Were i can print free that?
the ender 3 s1 needs this
Hola, en mi caso tenia mas desviacion en los perfiles, pero no queria perforar y dañar la impresora por garantia, asi que hice el diseño de Hapedevee thing:6516352 y logre cuadrar, luego nivele la cama con ciertos oring (Pero use el Remix que es mas facil sujetar) printables 733411 y logre tener mi cama casi todo a 0.0
I use in a V3 SE
You didn't show how you squared the gantry to the bed, and in particular where the provision for fine adjustment was. Surely you didn't just move the top blocks up and down?
Great modification. But, wouldn't it be possible to screw the 2 long parts together instead of glue them?
Technically just screws alone would work fine, but I wanted to glue to make it as rigid as possible.
yesssssssss i need this soooooo baddddd
How is the CR-10 SE model? I searched for your previous videos but couldn't find a review for it. CR-10 SE has liner rails in both axes. I wonder if it is better than the ender 3 v3 ke model. Can you share your ideas please?
my bed is not completely flat, slightly curved, the first layer is not straight in medium to large prints... how can I solve it?
Great video, but if you go to this extend, why not make the arms go both to the front and back ? maybe its a little over kill but it would probably stop the wobble completely
Thanks, sure, it's possible and I don't think it would be too hard, it didn't occur to me at the time TBH. Good idea though!
OMG I wanna make these for my v3 just because of how cool they look... ALSO the v3 will now be the only ender without support rods/arms :*(
That's true, the metal framed V3 seems pretty stiff, I can't say whether that'll be the case for the Plus-sized model though. There are some free threaded holes on the back of the metal frame though... maybe it could get an upgrade at some point. I'd want to do it in metal... or perhaps wood though.
@@NeedItMakeIt That would be super neat to see!
Do you think wood would better help with Vibrations??
@@Reds3DPrinting It depends on the type of wood, something like maple, or ash, anything hard would work well. Even though I'm a Woodworker, I don't show it much because it's not really something everyone can do, but if you think it would be interesting, I can try to include it in some videos. The combo of printing and wood is super appealing and I love the look of the combo, especially black prints with something with some nice grain, like Cherry.
Great video! Just out of curiosity, have you found the solution to the poor print quality on the KE? Been having very similar print quality to your previous videos
I'm working on an extruder solution for the printer, we have a solid X, a solid Y, and now the Z.. the only thing left is the extruder and extruder motor, possibly the hot end/nozzle comes into play a little bit as well, but that's not my impression from what I've been seeing. I'll have something to release in the next few weeks...as long as I have solved the problem!
@@NeedItMakeIt awesome, looking forward to that. Have you had any issues with the belts rubbing the edge of the bearings, specifically on the ends of the x axis?
@@CalvinBarnard-ky4wz There isn't really any guide system, just the edges of the idler pulleys, so yeah they do rub a little bit there, it's the same with most of the printers no matter which brand, it just seems to be the way they've decided to track the belt. If you watch the Core XY Printers as the belts move back and fourth, they raise and lower quite a bit, but it seems to be irrelevant as far as I can tell.
Do u happen to sell both of the upgrades I like both the upgrades you did.
I don't really do prints for other people, with shipping and material etc. it isn't justifiable at this time. I'm sure there are sites you can have models printed from someone local. If there isn't a site like that, there should be so you can save on shipping.
Got the KE today, will definitely do arms on later, thanks.
Nice, let me know how it goes and also if you're seeing any extrusion related issues like I've shown in the previous videos, I want to know if this is something that only I have a problem with, or is this everyone.
@@NeedItMakeIt linear shafts artifacts?
Nice! Next make a version that fits the Ender 3 S1 Pro, please, thanks 😇 (One can dream...)
I was going to do this however after I rotated the spool 90° the shaking is not as bad, also after i updated the input with the g sensor it has begun countering its vibration better.
Can we get an update video on the polycarbonate plate?
Did u solve the problems related to under extrusion on this machine?
Very cool!!! Thanks!
You're welcome!
Think I'll buy a Bambu 3d printer, the same time I buy the v3, so I can go ahead and fix the new v3
It's tough to pickup on sarcasm here, I'll assume that was your goal. You can do as you please, I'd tend to want to wait for the next gen of Bambu printers though. The reason for these videos is to help people who have purchased this printer and require solutions to make it more reliable. If you weren't aware, I have lots of videos showing the issues with this printer and I've done what I can to find solutions. Have a good one.
beutiful
I would recommend getting an enclosed printer, the best one that I have tested so far at a good price is the QIDI Q1. I made a review video and some follow up videos on it as well. The price point is not far off and you'll have a much better experience with a printer like that. I started with bed slingers, but I always had warpage issues and had to pay close attention to the room temperature, I don't even think about it when using an enclosed printer. I have a review video on the E3V3 that I just released a week+ ago and it shows that issue. If you want the best print quality, the Bambu printers and QIDI seem to be at the top, Creality is still struggling a bit with extrusion for some reason.
10:00 "Go their own way" SuperVinlin
You can go your own way, go your own waaay.
@@NeedItMakeIt you can call it anoooooother lonely daAay
I would really like a 3D printer to play with. I am torn between the Ender 3 V3 SE and the V3 KE, what are the major differences beside the price? Also do the upgrades you have done cost a lot? Or should I just save up and get the Bambu Labs A1, that everybody says just prints out of the box?
P.S. I could afford the 3V3 SE now. The V3 KE in a couple of months and the Bambu February nest year.
Take KE, faster printer
@@billy.the.maker. With all due respect does being faster mean a better printer? So for the $65 price difference between the SE and KE what do you get?
@@ian1957ruth You got better hot end 300c (you can print ABS and other high temp filaments), Klipper, linear X axis, and much more. Look at comparisons there is no reason to not spend the extra 65$
@@billy.the.maker. OK Thnx
Can you show a before and after pieces?
So I am looking to upgrade to the Ender 3 KE from a basic Ender 3 and want to know if these series of modifications are NEEDED for this printer? Or are these modifications more for the longevity of the machine?
Am I safe to just unbox, setup, and start printing? I absolutely needed to do some modifications to the ender 3 to get some good prints but I want to know if that is the case here as well?
I'm looking for faster print times without (or negligible) loss of quality. I print a variety of things from household Q.O.L things, to toys, to D&D Miniatures.
I just want to know that I am spending my money wisely. I also don't want to dive into resin printers right now (maybe some years down the line).
So, any advice?
Maybe I'm biased but I don't really recommend any bed slingers anymore. Trying to move the mass of the bed along with the mass of the part you're printing on the bed has always been something that didn't make much sense. You'd also need some kind of enclosure for the best results. I've used a blanket, which looks awful, but it does work alright. Personally I have far better results with CoreXY printers. They're faster, more accurate, have less mass to move around at high speed, less ringing issues etc. I'm not sure if you've made up your mind about the direction you'd like to go, but I'd say try to get a CoreXY format if you can, there are lots of new ones coming on the market at a reasonable price. I'd recommend an enclosed one as well, you'll have better success this way as well.
For the DND stuff, you can use a CoreXY with a 0.2mm nozzle, but they're better to be printed with a resin printer for the high detail you might want.
I hope that helps a bit!
@@NeedItMakeIt My price range is fairly low for printers at around $300. I really don't want to work with resin right now because of the ventilation needed (I live in a hot/humid place), so it would needlessly heat up my room to open a window and I don't want to mount anything in the window for now. So I'm really stuck using FDM printers.
So, are there any FDM printers that match the performance of the KE for the price?
Sorry for asking so many questions.
@@whozawhatzit0 No problem! If that's the case I might recommend that you look at the Bambu A1 Mini, it's small but it is precise and since you're printing mainly smaller parts it might suit you pretty well. The bed being so small doesn't really have the same issues with slinging a massive plate like the larger printers would. I think it might be in and around your price point and there are options to upgrade to color. I don't have one myself, but I've heard quite a lot of good things about it. I just checked and they've come down in price to 249 without their AMS, so it could be a good option. The KE quality isn't exceptional, you really need to upgrade the printer before it can be, with the A1 Mini there are no upgrades needed.
@@NeedItMakeIt So does the Bambu A1 mini have the same feature set as the KE? (Auto calibration/Z offset, wifi printing, and so forth?
And does it at least print at a faster speed than my Ender 3? I'm sick of waiting all day and night for a small set of mini's to print lol.
By the way, thank you so much for all of your help and advice. I've been so stressed out trying to figure all of this out, so this has been a huge help!
@@whozawhatzit0 The Bottom line is that it is an overall better printer. Some people don't like that the software is "Closed" so you can't tinker with it. It has more features than you list and the ability to add upgrades which most printers do not have. Have a look on their site and see if it would suit your case well.
To improve your budget printer you'll need 2 more expensive printers
That looks like a hercus or Southend cross slide nut you printed at the front end
You've got it! Southbend 9A I'm trying to decide if I want to get the cross-slide and compound nuts made up or if I can do it myself and I wanted to print them first to get the fit close and to understand the ACME sizes they've used. They are unfortunately non-standard sizes these days. We have 3/8-10 and 7/16-10 ACME, except the pitch diameters don't seem to match anything commonly available these days. I've been thinking about doing some bronze/brass casing and machining new ones myself, but that's going to be hard for me at my amateurish metal working level.
Hi NeedItMakeIt, love your designs.
Is there any chance I could get the step file for mounts that screw onto the back of the body? I'm working on a cable chain mod which would connect onto this part.
Of course will share if it works out? Cheers
Can you shoot me an email? I'll star it and see what I can do! Needitmakeit@gmail.com I get a lot of messages and I am trying to get to every one of them, but it is not always possible.
@@NeedItMakeIt Awesome thanks, email sent - Ed Lewis
I mean yah, they look good, but its a bit overengineered... I solved it with two M8 rods, 8 nuts and 4 anchors for the extrusions... about 8 years ago with my tornado (and that one was crooked AF)...
I guess I wasn't clear with the goal, I've made this in such a way that anyone with this printer can make, regardless of their skillset with machinery. It would have been far easier to do this from steel rods or even aluminum. Valid point, it's not the direction I went even though it would have been about 10X easier for me to do.
@@NeedItMakeIt just to be clear, I meant no sass or anything, I like the looks of them, as said, but considering the factor ease of use: my tornado was not reliable and I was a beginner back then (kinda still am) but I was aware I need as much precision as I can get- and being such a newbie, calibration was a proper struggle then, but I knew my way around with cutting threaded rods, so it was a no brainer for me, not needing extras like perhaps inserts or precision printing. I like your vids as they explain a lot hence don't get my comment wrong. I commented in case someone with my "skillset" from 2016 feels a bit overwhelmed/scared. Cheers!
bought a Bambu just to fix my ke. Yay
Pytanie po co komplikować. Skoro można użyć prętu gwintowanego, kilku kątowników metalowych, i do gięcie pod wymaganym kontem oraz skręcić śrubami. Kolejnym ważnym aspektem jest mała płyta betonowa do której przymocowana jest drukarka sztywno, i to bardzo pomaga a może nawet zdecydowanie bardziej niż usztywnienie ramienia
Nice, but easier to just run a PTFE tube up, remove the spool holder and print from a dry box. The filament is most of the problem. Still requires a couple items to be printed of course.
Yup, good option for sure, I'd prefer to see the runout sensor on the head or within the head as well, it doesn't make sense to run up and then back down if it can be avoided.
@@NeedItMakeIt I just printed a feed to test the concept of pulling from a dry box. Got a few options out there. For sure the run-out sensor needs to be handled. Printing another that will allow it to still be used, but very wasteful in the path.
It should work well coming from the box, I've done some testing on pulling through a pretty long tube and it doesn't seem to be enough friction to cause any problems... until maybe we get to 10+ feet of tubing anyway. It would depend a bit on how the spool is rotating, I've found one of my dryers causes the spool to rotate with quite a bit or resistance, while the other has very little. I don't find I use the runout sensor at all do you?
@@NeedItMakeIt I've printed a couple solutions and both are working fine. The shaking does go way down with the 1kg spool out of the picture. I'm happy with this solution and it doesn't require any mods to the printer. Well not permanent mods at least.
@@NeedItMakeIt I don't use the runout sensor. Might be more of an issue if I'm pulling from a filament dryer. Some are hard to see in and know what you have left.
Thank you so much for your hard work. I'm looking to get a KE soon. Saved all your series ready.
👏👏👏
That's great, thanks for the support. If I may ask, are you set on this printer or are you open to other options?
@NeedItMakeIt no, I'm open to any suggestions. Please thank you.
I thought the KE because I want something future proof a little, I can improve, and also, from what i see and read, Klipper is the board to have.
Buy the SE and extras to KE spec come out able the same.
But and suggestions great fully received. 👍
@@philj1975 At this point there is so much competition, that I wouldn't go with a bed slinger, they're very limiting on what you can produce, a CoreXY enclosed printer if far more capable, and produces better results. The QIDI Q1 Pro is an excellent printer for the price, it may be the best overall that I've found so far, with the Bambu X1C/P1 series printers also competing for top spot. The X1C is far more expensive of course. The QIDI Q1 Pro has features that the other printers don't have and will give you lots of options for later on. I have a video review of the QIDI Q1 already to show how it performs. If you have a moment, check that one out and see what you think.
@NeedItMakeIt i have looked at this one as well, but I will have to wait as not available in the EU yet. I'll wait and see then that it's. It is a nice machine and I do like it as well.
Thank you for help and option @NeedItMakeIt
Yes, the problem with these printers is in the stands; they stand on a plastic case, which becomes deformed when the temperature changes. Well done author, the solution is correct, strengthening the racks with supports. If the author doesn’t mind, then here is also a good solution for supports, there will be a link to the files: ua-cam.com/video/6jJuzklzp74/v-deo.html
Is it possible to print this stiffener with an Ender 3 v3 SE?
I’d like to know if z wobble is a problem with your ke since it’s been a real trouble and consistent problem of my ke
Do you have to open holes on the printer?
Did u notice if input shaping improve with those arms?
This printer isn't so nice for input shaping, it lacks the g-sensors from factory. I'd need to buy the kit and install and re-run to gather the results. I'm willing to do it though.
Where can I find the printed bed slinger? The only problem I'm having with the printer atm is a kinda uneven layer height
I have both the linear rails and gantry supports
Do you mean the replacement for the steel plate below the bed? If so, I have to fine-tune a few details and then I'll be ready to release it to everyone.
Doesn't the ADXL345 Vibration Compensation Sensor take care of this problem?
This printer doesn't have the sensor on it, and maybe it would help a little bit, the sensor needs to be positioned on the X, measurements taken, then the Y and the same process is run, there is no active vibration dampening on this printer, which means that when the mass of the print changes, so does the vibration. I've read that the results of the sensor for this printer are inconclusive. I'd still like to try it myself to be sure, but I have a feeling that what I've read about it is right.