Perfect Z Offset On Your 3D Printer - How to get it right!
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- Опубліковано 3 лют 2024
- So you know you need to tune your Z offset for great first layers but how do you know when it's right?
In this video I'll quickly show you what your looking for when trying to dial in your Z offset with examples of what you might be seeing on your 3d printer so you'll know what you need to do to improve things.
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3d Printer Automatic Bed Leveling - 6 steps to perfection! • 3d Printer Automatic B...
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*Microscope used*
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5:29 A beautiful sight for any 3D printer.
This is such a thorough video on this subject and you brought up questions that I didn't even consider. I learned a lot. Thanks so much!
Thank you, your Video helped me a lot and now I have a perfect first layer 😊
There's few of these explanations out there and this one was done well. You can find various bed levelling models on STL sites - the one in this video is huge, which is a bit time consuming. I made my own, which consists of 16 squares, connected with thin walls, that span into the far corners above the adjustment wheels. Do the manual level and get the bed reasonably level, then run the test model and adjust the z-offset compensation, then get a flashlight and closely monitor the extrusion as it prints. This guarantees that your 4 corners are near exact - it also shows you exactly where your bed may be warped. In my case, is showed me that my bed has a high spot just off the center point and that I should expect my 1st layer to have issues in that spot.
Your alive, yay love your videos, I would love to see you do a Z-offset on web-klipper
Fantastic video as always. 👍
Great video and information Ricky. I keep hearing complains about printing issues and 90% of it all goes back to bed leveling and getting that first layer right. 🤠
Man, I literally gave up a couple of days ago trying to print PETG because I didn't have enough time to calibrate my z-offset properly and now you post this video!! I love you!!
Brilliant video that solved the issue (of my own making) I was having. Thank you very much! Keep up the great content.
Absolutely wonderful video thank you. Subscribed
This was awesome thank you, I mistakenly thought z-offset would be covered by the calibration that the ender v3 ke does automatically but upon learning it doesn't this video helped me tune it and my base layer is printing and adhering much better. Thank you!
You were not wrong in your assumption. I have a KE and the auto calibration and z offset never work correctly. The calibration does not compensate correctly for the dips in the bed and the Z offset is ALWAYS at least .05 too high if not more. I always have to paper calibrate after the "auto".
Thank you
Thank you so much for this video! You saved my printer! I'm new to this and have had my Creality Ender 3 V3 SE for about two weeks. Out of the box it was working fine I thought but over the period of a week the more complicated prints I tried the worse things got. Trying different filaments just made it worse. I tried replacing my hotend, my bed, upgrading to a bi-metal heatbreak, replacing my PTFE tube with a capricorn tube, etc. Nothing worked until I saw this video. I was using the "auto" Z Offset feature and having terrible results. I was about to buy a different printer. 15 minutes after watching your video and adjusting my Z-Offset with your instructions using a 60mm square and I'm doing the best prints I've seen out of my device. You've gained a permanent subscriber!
He saved me so much time and anguish when I put a sonic pad on my ender 3 v2. Clear and concise explinations and why you are doing what you are doing.
Awesome video, however you missed a part that almost none youtuber talks about and I think that's why a lot of people have problems dialing the Z offset. And it's that sometimes if the flow isn't correctly tuned, it can make us think that the Z offset is "high" because we see gaps which could be because under extrusion and not really a Z offset issue or the opposite to close but because over extrusion.
Hi Ricky, what do we do when on some points on the 1st layer we have gaps, on others points we have perfect distance and on some parts the noozle is too close? :/
Hi Ricky, where would I find the stl for the large square please
so do we run another bed level after setting the z offset?
At what I think is the correct z layer height on my smooth PEI sheet, I still have small 'pinholes' where the diagonals hit the periphery lines (I use the 60x60 square too). I've never been able to prevent this cleanly. Do these appear at any point on yours where you could suggest it's too far or too close from optimum?
At 7:05 I'd say mine appears similar to your lower L and upper R prints.
This middle looks flipped over?
I've decided to get a small microscope for other electronics or prosthetic work since my normal loupes I wear when operating (on people) are only 2.5x. Perhaps it will help *really* hone in a nice result if I make a proper go of it.
I have generally done offsets for each sheet type - smooth, satin, texture (Prusa sheets), and each filament type. Haven't really needed it across brands but then I tend to look for a reliable brand and stay for consistency.
Where did you get the single square benchy and how thick was it, 2mm?
What size feeler gauge do you use?
Hi Ricky, another great video. I have been having lots of success fixing my printer’s problems with your videos. I think my Z offset is tuned properly as my sheet is very flat and smooth, but ripples appear perpendicular to the direction of printing.
Do you have ideas what the issue could be? I have ordered a filament dryer to rule out moisture, my fan is turned off for the first layer.
Did you watch the other video on getting your prints to stick? When you get ripples like that it is usually a combination of being a little close, having a less than perfectly clean bed and sometimes possibly a flow issue. Have you checked your e-steps yet? I have videos for all these things if not.
if the filement is thick coming out does that mean its too hot or too cold?
05:00 so if understand correct, is my offzet is -1.1 y need to put -1.2 or -1.3 to get a correct printing
how would do you know when its a z offset issue vs a flow rate issue? under extrusion looks similar to z-offset being too far for me. thanks
Well if the rest of the print doesn't have under extrusion issues, it's the Z offset.
You should calibrate your flow first assuming you can at least stick to the bed
at 8:42 you used a Feeler gauge, what gap did you use?
The gap is a ballpark. The actual gap needed is a function of filament, bed temperature, and printing surface in combination with distance to produce the optimum first layer. (see bed leveling method video in description)
This👆
How does Z offset change the z dimensional accuracy ?.
Great video Ricky. I did check out the UZY filament and found it to be outrageously expensive. Sorry but no thanks on that.
A bit of squished 1st layer always good. Just a a bit
I went through half a spool trying to dial in a ender 3 🤦
Do you need to change your flow rate with your z off set?
No, they are very different things.
Link to microscope please, not in description.
Thanks, now added
Thanks@@RickyImpey
Wait, is Uzy copying Prusa's spool design? Looks alike...
Likely come from the same supplier if they are identical. I have a Creality roll on a very similar spool though both sides clear.
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Buy a Bambu printer. There. Your z offset is now perfect
I wish it was that easy. My A1 is having issues with the z offset
Not so much bro
Man if I had the 1k LOL
@@iisGavin just get the $600 version 👍
Yeah cause I'm going to buy a Bambu just for a Z offset fix 🙄🙄
Talking too much mate