I sure can see why you fabricate your own panels because the new ones aren't bent exactly right and I would say probably not as thick either. You guys are the best steve and Ryan.
Fantastic job! Amazing craftsmanship! On one of my ALL TIME Favourite Cars! My dad had a White 1.1L when I was born as did my Grandad who had the 1.3xl brown metallic with walnut dash. The White one got sold for £50 when I was a kid and the 1.3XL was given away when my Grandad died! GUTTING to think how much they'd be worth now! That lottery Jackpot definitely going on a couple of these! & Getting you lads to do the work on em! 😎👍 Wish I could afford to get you to sort my E46 arches out PROPERLY now! Looking at the work you been doing on this and Matt Armstrong's BMW and Colin Furze BMW, youd knock mine out in half hour! Lol Stella work! Cheers from London 👍🏴🇬🇧
Thank goodness for that last comment- I really thought you'd left the rust in the inner sill- I'm and old bugger that used to do this stuff at one stage, long before all the lovely toys you have now- mine was Gilbow snips and a Planishing hammer and a swage machine-Hand cranked! Oh and oxy acetelene welding.😃
Those snips, were they a pale blue? I’ve got a pair of tinsman’s snips and I think that’s the brand. I bought them because they pleased me, just to hold them. I very rarely cut metal at all, so I’ve not the opportunity to use them in anger. Nicely made things.
You and Ryan are the most skilled of any of the other channels I watch. Always something to learn from you both. Thanks for what you do. FYI, in the future when using POR 15, that product does much better when it is top coated, giving it a durable and longer rust protection. I recall the instructions from when I covered my frame rails, and the POR 15 kit I had came with their top coat, but any coat over it, works as well. While you were spraying the Weld through Primer - I was anticipating that you were going to cover the POR 15 areas with the primer.
It's the little details that matter, and you're knocking it out of the park as per usual. I wonder what car Magnum were using for reference, probably something that had been repaired 30 times before 🤣Seeing this I'd be liable to repair the original panel, can't be good advertising for Magnum given the rise of this channel whereas most U.K rust repair shops don't do UA-cam, maybe it's an eye opener for Magnum to tighten up on quality. Owner is getting a really good shell back after this, the rust proofing behind that bowl (where I imagine a lot of moisture will pools up) looks insane compared to factory. Said it many times but I'm still astonished at the rot revealed in this series given how clean the car first looked coming in.
Completely agree with the aftermarket panels had the same problems, best describe the panels as nearest tug in the dock, unless you able to get original panels, it's the only option but with a frettle here and there they work out with good results.
I've never understood how aftermarket panels are just so bad... I mean they've gone to all the effort of tooling up to make them, so surely you'd want your tooling to be roughly the right size/shape?! But it's as if they couldn't even afford a ruler having spent all their money on the tooling...
@@AJB1maybe it’s a matter of copyrite protection. Some manufacturers might patent the exact pattern to prevent aftermarket makers from producing an exact replica forcing repair shops to purchase OEM panels. Problem becomes when the panels are no longer available from the manufacturer. All you have left are I’ll fitting panels.
@@Subgunman I’m not sure that’s right. The panels won’t be patentable. There could be copyright or design rights in the shape, but the remade panels would likely infringe that anyway since they substantially replicate the original anyway - if those rights still exist (there’s generally shorter periods of protection for industrially applied designs). These minor errors wouldn’t change that equation. It’s more likely just a case of bad execution
Have you considered drilling a small ‘weep’ hole in the lower part of the heater bowl to allow any water (moisture/condensation) to drain away? I noticed from your previous video that there was a load of rust inside and around the old bowl area which was caused by water not being able to drain away. Better out than in don’t you think?
Nice job! It would be great when you are using tools explain which and why. For example when you were (in your words) “bashing” panels into shape, why you use a particular hammer and dolly or anvil. Also I on the sill I could guess what you were doing, but I think you scared others, re taking on over rust. Helps us understand at each stage why you are doing something. I’m hooked on your videos, keep the great work up guys!
Hi absolutely brilliant content as always, I just love your approach to making panels or adjusting panels to fit you make it look like it’s a walk in the park 😀😀😀😀
Thanks for painting the POR 15 onto the heater bubble area Steve 👌🏽 I think it will rust proof that area for many years to come. Great work as always mate ❤ These Magnum panels never fit brilliantly
Rain water runs down the windscreen and through the vent holes below, down inside the heater bubble and out the hole at the bottom. That’s why I wanted the best possible protection inside there.
I understand aftermarket panels but who produces original ones, the skill is now left to professionals like Steve to fettle which is his forty to match with its host but great work. 😊
In the 1980's my friends were all escort mk1 fans while I was a fiat 131 fan well some were having body work done and 1 friend purchased half an escort 1600 e from ford direct in boxes. Another purchased some parts if i remember from a company called Gems they sold only body work and paint supplies but was the place a lot of body shops used. comparing the 2 products the OEM were slightly thinner with a micrometer almost impossible to see by eye. Fitment wasn't as far out as that though.
Loving your videos. I have a question if I may. I notice that you don't wear a welding helmet. Do you just close your eyes when you pull the trigger on your mig gun?
I see what you mean with aftermarket quality panels. These looks cheaply made, the wrinkling on the flange and stretch marks show they didn't clamp it properly in the press moulds. Hence no proper control over the shape and spring back. I got some replacement panels for my '75 Celica from the funky green guys, they look so much better. The fitment is exactly as OEM (I was lucky enough to find an OEM sill so could compare). Have a look at their products when doing a Toyota or Datsun. Anyway, well done with the adjustments, that takes some skill and experience!
It looks a reasonable protection, but I have to admit I have never used it myself. The real problem lies with the manufacturers having put next to nothing to protect the metal in there.
I used POR-15 on my Volvo 5 years ago, removed all rust, back to shiny steel, cleaned with panel de-greaser, and the damned stuff has failed in various areas. I now have to do all the hard work again, but NO way will I ever use POR-15 again - EVER.
@@yorkshirecarrestoration This time I am going to use Galvafroid on the bare metal, still looking into what to put over that. I had considered a few coats of Hammerite smooth. I gave the garden gate 3 coats of it , after getting it shot blasted 3 years ago & still no signs of rust coming through.
Pour 15 is dodgy at best, it requires a 3 step process of de-waxing then metal etching then finally the paint itself, unless you follow the steps it just peels off. Some people swear by it but personally I believe it’s over priced rubbish.
That bit always rusts on the MK1 and other Fords of that era. With that paint on it I'm sure it will last a lot longer than it did out of the factory. PS The quality of your work is excellent and I know you have being doing this for 25 years without an accident or incident but the lack of safety gear makes me unable to watch, I'll have to block the channel and move on. Wishing you many more years of success with all your bits and pieces working.
Anyone else super impressed by Steve’s freehand angle grinder work, in cutting disc mode?
What a good eye & steady hand, 12.50.
I sure can see why you fabricate your own panels because the new ones aren't bent exactly right and I would say probably not as thick either. You guys are the best steve and Ryan.
Fantastic job! Amazing craftsmanship! On one of my ALL TIME Favourite Cars! My dad had a White 1.1L when I was born as did my Grandad who had the 1.3xl brown metallic with walnut dash. The White one got sold for £50 when I was a kid and the 1.3XL was given away when my Grandad died! GUTTING to think how much they'd be worth now!
That lottery Jackpot definitely going on a couple of these! & Getting you lads to do the work on em! 😎👍
Wish I could afford to get you to sort my E46 arches out PROPERLY now! Looking at the work you been doing on this and Matt Armstrong's BMW and Colin Furze BMW, youd knock mine out in half hour! Lol Stella work!
Cheers from London 👍🏴🇬🇧
My first car was an Escort MkII estate! I think 1.3L. White and rust coloured :)
Thank goodness for that last comment- I really thought you'd left the rust in the inner sill- I'm and old bugger that used to do this stuff at one stage, long before all the lovely toys you have now- mine was Gilbow snips and a Planishing hammer and a swage machine-Hand cranked! Oh and oxy acetelene welding.😃
Proper welding mate...they couldn't do it nowadays pal...I don't blow my own trumpet but if there's a better gas welder I ain't seen him yet lol 😂😂
Those snips, were they a pale blue?
I’ve got a pair of tinsman’s snips and I think that’s the brand.
I bought them because they pleased me, just to hold them.
I very rarely cut metal at all, so I’ve not the opportunity to use them in anger. Nicely made things.
I love the casual description, which in no way accounts for the tremendous skill required to achieve the result!
Weekend treat...
Early Saturday morning here in Aussie..
Great to meet you guys today, thank you all for your time, Awesome Team, thanks for the bracket 👍
Ayup Steve hope you and family are well rested looking forward to 2024 and what YCR Has for us ! 👍🏻😉
You and Ryan are the most skilled of any of the other channels I watch. Always something to learn from you both. Thanks for what you do. FYI, in the future when using POR 15, that product does much better when it is top coated, giving it a durable and longer rust protection. I recall the instructions from when I covered my frame rails, and the POR 15 kit I had came with their top coat, but any coat over it, works as well. While you were spraying the Weld through Primer - I was anticipating that you were going to cover the POR 15 areas with the primer.
POR-15 only requires topcoat when exposed to UV.
Also the area should have been degreased and zinc etched prior to application to aid adhesion.
It's the little details that matter, and you're knocking it out of the park as per usual.
I wonder what car Magnum were using for reference, probably something that had been repaired 30 times before 🤣Seeing this I'd be liable to repair the original panel, can't be good advertising for Magnum given the rise of this channel whereas most U.K rust repair shops don't do UA-cam, maybe it's an eye opener for Magnum to tighten up on quality.
Owner is getting a really good shell back after this, the rust proofing behind that bowl (where I imagine a lot of moisture will pools up) looks insane compared to factory.
Said it many times but I'm still astonished at the rot revealed in this series given how clean the car first looked coming in.
This car was only on the road for 14 years, and look how bad it was 😳
@@justinsimpson7934Back in my day my Mk1 1300 Sport was 4 years old and the rust had penetrated through the doors and front wings.
Completely agree with the aftermarket panels had the same problems, best describe the panels as nearest tug in the dock, unless you able to get original panels, it's the only option but with a frettle here and there they work out with good results.
The front panel, outer wings, radiator panel, bonnet and boot lid are genuine Ford. But unfortunately the rest are Magnum
I've never understood how aftermarket panels are just so bad... I mean they've gone to all the effort of tooling up to make them, so surely you'd want your tooling to be roughly the right size/shape?! But it's as if they couldn't even afford a ruler having spent all their money on the tooling...
@@AJB1maybe it’s a matter of copyrite protection. Some manufacturers might patent the exact pattern to prevent aftermarket makers from producing an exact replica forcing repair shops to purchase OEM panels. Problem becomes when the panels are no longer available from the manufacturer. All you have left are I’ll fitting panels.
@@Subgunman I’m not sure that’s right. The panels won’t be patentable. There could be copyright or design rights in the shape, but the remade panels would likely infringe that anyway since they substantially replicate the original anyway - if those rights still exist (there’s generally shorter periods of protection for industrially applied designs). These minor errors wouldn’t change that equation. It’s more likely just a case of bad execution
I can see why you make so many of your own panels !, fantastic work Steve
Have you considered drilling a small ‘weep’ hole in the lower part of the heater bowl to allow any water (moisture/condensation) to drain away?
I noticed from your previous video that there was a load of rust inside and around the old bowl area which was caused by water not being able to drain away. Better out than in don’t you think?
The underneath of that sill panel is how I remember all my old escorts lol certainly coming along be a nice car one day ..good job 👍
Nice job! It would be great when you are using tools explain which and why. For example when you were (in your words) “bashing” panels into shape, why you use a particular hammer and dolly or anvil. Also I on the sill I could guess what you were doing, but I think you scared others, re taking on over rust. Helps us understand at each stage why you are doing something. I’m hooked on your videos, keep the great work up guys!
I absolutely love these videos. I also absolutely loathe the music on these videos!
thank you, i think :
Expressed Steel panels are the best for Escorts - they cost more and the long lead time is a pain, but they do fit properly with very little fettling.
Hi absolutely brilliant content as always, I just love your approach to making panels or adjusting panels to fit you make it look like it’s a walk in the park 😀😀😀😀
Good old fashioned 'fettling!' 🙂 Nice one!. Nuff said!...
Thanks for painting the POR 15 onto the heater bubble area Steve 👌🏽 I think it will rust proof that area for many years to come. Great work as always mate ❤
These Magnum panels never fit brilliantly
Hi Justin , Yep your heater bubble will be good for years to come :)
Have known replaced bubbles to rot through again due to no protection 😳
Is that condensation inside do you think ?@justinsimpson7934
Rain water runs down the windscreen and through the vent holes below, down inside the heater bubble and out the hole at the bottom.
That’s why I wanted the best possible protection inside there.
best car ever made
Panel fitting the mgb floor pan yesterday. 😢 All good fun though and your detailed vids always give me hope 😁. Well done Steve, Joe
great job steve looking much better and a bit nearer completion
I understand aftermarket panels but who produces original ones, the skill is now left to professionals like Steve to fettle which is his forty to match with its host but great work. 😊
Thanks for the video. Looking good!
Thanks again. Best wishes.
Great to watch. Personally I’d be using Bilt hamber zinc primer over that POR15. I’ve unbelievably good results with Bilt.
Hi Steve, Let it rain, at least it's no more raining inside ;-)
your not wrong Leo , deffo better than raining on us while working :)
In the 1980's my friends were all escort mk1 fans while I was a fiat 131 fan well some were having body work done and 1 friend purchased half an escort 1600 e from ford direct in boxes. Another purchased some parts if i remember from a company called Gems they sold only body work and paint supplies but was the place a lot of body shops used. comparing the 2 products the OEM were slightly thinner with a micrometer almost impossible to see by eye. Fitment wasn't as far out as that though.
Great work young man!
Very nice. I love it.
Fantastic work Steve as always.
Do you fancy repairing my Cortina P100 ?
great job steve
Loving your videos. I have a question if I may. I notice that you don't wear a welding helmet. Do you just close your eyes when you pull the trigger on your mig gun?
Yes i do but i wouldn't advise it, always wear a helmet.
No Heavy rain here in the Netherlands.... Oh wait ;-)
Fab work
Thank you
What do you consider to be a good rust preventer/killer?
Great work as usally!
I see what you mean with aftermarket quality panels. These looks cheaply made, the wrinkling on the flange and stretch marks show they didn't clamp it properly in the press moulds. Hence no proper control over the shape and spring back. I got some replacement panels for my '75 Celica from the funky green guys, they look so much better. The fitment is exactly as OEM (I was lucky enough to find an OEM sill so could compare). Have a look at their products when doing a Toyota or Datsun. Anyway, well done with the adjustments, that takes some skill and experience!
looking good.
Gute Arbeit.(Königsklasse) 🔨🔨🔨💯
Epic!
Shame the customer insisted on POR15, a good 2K Epoxy Primer would offer much better protection.
It looks a reasonable protection, but I have to admit I have never used it myself. The real problem lies with the manufacturers having put next to nothing to protect the metal in there.
is that the rustiest mk1 escort in the UK ?
Why no POR 15 ON inner sill ?
It's still gotta be cut out and replaced then reattached once the inside has been sorted. He said that at the end..
@AB-C1 gotcha. Missed that bit. Thought it was u unlike YCR
No rustremoving under the rhs sill
Keep watching you will see the sills are completely removed and replaced. But thank you for your input.
Nice 👍👍👍😎😎😎
I used POR-15 on my Volvo 5 years ago, removed all rust, back to shiny steel, cleaned with panel de-greaser, and the damned stuff has failed in various areas. I now have to do all the hard work again, but NO way will I ever use POR-15 again - EVER.
It needs backing up with regular Waxoil each year :)
Jota mastic 90 is very good its a 2 component paint 👍
@@yorkshirecarrestoration This time I am going to use Galvafroid on the bare metal, still looking into what to put over that. I had considered a few coats of Hammerite smooth. I gave the garden gate 3 coats of it , after getting it shot blasted 3 years ago & still no signs of rust coming through.
👋 moi j'ai une ford escort rs 2000 année 1992 full rouille 😭
💪👍
Spurious panels always need a fettle lol 😅
A big can of 'Stickability'
Yeh unfortunately they never fit straight out the box always plenty of work getting them to fit nicely
😍👌
Pour 15 is dodgy at best, it requires a 3 step process of de-waxing then metal etching then finally the paint itself, unless you follow the steps it just peels off. Some people swear by it but personally I believe it’s over priced rubbish.
Looks freezing in there
Nice one Dad! Love these videos. Sheet metal porn.
That bit always rusts on the MK1 and other Fords of that era. With that paint on it I'm sure it will last a lot longer than it did out of the factory.
PS The quality of your work is excellent and I know you have being doing this for 25 years without an accident or incident but the lack of safety gear makes me unable to watch, I'll have to block the channel and move on. Wishing you many more years of success with all your bits and pieces working.
Thank you for your support.
The customer needs to be reeducated on how shit POR15 really is. Far better 2 part epoxy systems out there.