Your comment of FRP and Carbon being the same makes sense, but then they did make them out of two different materials. PN Racing even makes one out of spring steel. I wonder if it has to do with the speed at which it returns back to its original form (plane) kind of like a shock rebound. I would think the Carbon will "bounce" back quicker and limit body roll compared to the FRP? What do you think? We are talking a tiny amount that would be hard to notice every day unless you are racing and really tuning a car.
its just like flipping the kingpin ... when all you have to do is polish the shaft and reinstall it. when you flip it what actually ends up happening is that it allows the frame to bottom out and get completely screwed over time. ps thanks for info on the dampener ... ordering one now !!!
Love the videos brother! You got any more mini z videos in you? I just got into the sport and got the large 96 track and I need to learn from the best.
How hard or soft is going to depend on your track (grip, surface). if you have a nice flat tack with lots to traction you want something on the harder end of the spectrum since your car will #1 not be bouncing and #2 need to rotate around turns by limiting body roll. Less body roll = less traction (there are limits to everything). You would want a softer T plate in a track that is bumpy and or with low traction - again so that you have a tiny bit of side roll and this helps the rear end be planted. I will say that the factory plastic T-plate is just a place holder and needs to be replaced for racing right away just like the tires. The order of operations is: 1 - Tires (find the right combo) 2 - Suspension spring (T-plate and front spring) Hope this helps.
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Your comment of FRP and Carbon being the same makes sense, but then they did make them out of two different materials. PN Racing even makes one out of spring steel.
I wonder if it has to do with the speed at which it returns back to its original form (plane) kind of like a shock rebound.
I would think the Carbon will "bounce" back quicker and limit body roll compared to the FRP? What do you think?
We are talking a tiny amount that would be hard to notice every day unless you are racing and really tuning a car.
its just like flipping the kingpin ... when all you have to do is polish the shaft and reinstall it. when you flip it what actually ends up happening is that it allows the frame to bottom out and get completely screwed over time. ps thanks for info on the dampener ... ordering one now !!!
Love the videos brother! You got any more mini z videos in you? I just got into the sport and got the large 96 track and I need to learn from the best.
Good info
Thx.
How soft or hard the T plate should be and how it’s gonna affect the driving?
How hard or soft is going to depend on your track (grip, surface). if you have a nice flat tack with lots to traction you want something on the harder end of the spectrum since your car will #1 not be bouncing and #2 need to rotate around turns by limiting body roll. Less body roll = less traction (there are limits to everything). You would want a softer T plate in a track that is bumpy and or with low traction - again so that you have a tiny bit of side roll and this helps the rear end be planted.
I will say that the factory plastic T-plate is just a place holder and needs to be replaced for racing right away just like the tires.
The order of operations is:
1 - Tires (find the right combo)
2 - Suspension spring (T-plate and front spring)
Hope this helps.