Surprised that you dont solder the wire direct to the PCB (maybe it is not permitted in your box stock rules?). When I ran box stock, and any Mini-Z, I always direct soldered the wires to the board. Reduces stress on the screw terminals which do wear over time, and a screw loosens slightly from the vibration which can lose power... you always have a good connection and lower resistance than with the screw terminals. A couple points to add for your viewers... I also solder the power wires from the board to the battery terminals rather than screw them. The same is done with the transponder wires. As well as pull the negative terminals out just a little to make it tighter on the battery for better contact. As you continuously install batteries into the car, the battery tabs compress, and eventually loosen... so this is something to check during the maintenance cycle to ensure that cells always make good contact. Also CLEAN the contacts from time to time with a Qtip and alcohol. Batteries often vent, and can corrode the contacts. To add for diff prep: On the left wheel adapter, I sand just a little on face where it would butt against the bearing. This allows the wheel nut to be tightened fully, and sand in a slight bevel so that only the inner race of the bearing would touch the adapter. When complete, you would want to be able to fully tighten the nut with .2mm clearance for the adapter to the bearing while the diff assembly side is touching the bearing on the opposite side of the pod. The primary reason to grease the diff internals is to prevent unloading of the diff during chatter. Since RCP is bumpy by nature due to the seams, and slightly uneven tile height, it is very easy to unload the diff mid corner, and the grease provides a consistent tension to be able to have the wheels be able to apply the power rather than one side slipping and the other gripping and the power going nowhere. As you said, the optimal grease changes from track to track, but just having a tiny dab of grease is better than nothing. Its important not to pack the diff full of grease, as that will leak out and get all over the tire, car and track. Just a little is needed, and less is better than more, as more will just leave the diff... The Mini-Z MR03 chassis is a very good car, and you would be surprised by how much you can improve the performance while not "upgrading" it with option parts. I always mention that it is more about HOW the parts are installed and setup than what upgrades are put onto the car. For those looking to go into box stock, and then upgrade into a more open stock class, the first thing to get would be a disc damper... and that one change will make a big difference with the calmness of the car and how hard you can drive it into and through the corners.
Thank you for the great reply. As for the motor contact, there is rules for this, as it is “extreme” box Stock, so no soldering of any parts. But the wire change is okay as Long as it has loops. There will be alot more detail vids, with among other things, maintenance and fixes for common problems, and wear. Good points, pinned the comment 👍
@@EMU1 thank you very much, and you Seem very well wandered in mini z’, i myself is relativly new to the z’s but have race well over 15 other classes, among 1/12scale on national and international level, so i fell the pull of knowledge from that is useful here, and was very fed up with vids of people putting on parts and claiming this did wonders for them.
@@WobbelyTable I started mini-z in 2004, so have been through many transitions in the scale. There is a lot of talk about upgrading the cars, even before the potential is brought out of the base kit on a track. Racers want to go fast, often faster than their ability can support out of the box. This leads them down a path of trying to buy their speed, and not being able to understand what each change of the car does. When I was learning, I spent a lot of time looking at setup theory for 1/12 scale cars, because they best translated to the mini-z. That is why I think your series is very well done, in that it separates many of the parts of the car, shows what those parts do, and shows how to gain optimal performance without upgrading to option parts.
Great video series. I have enjoyed seeing the many ways you actually can make adjustments to the setup of the cars. My kids and I got into mini-z box stock a couple months ago and this has been very informative.
I've been really enjoying your tutorials! Very informative. I have 2 questions about taping your tires to make them bigger, do you do this for both front and rear and if so, will you get the same benefit from taping 2 or 3 times by using the original/standard height kyosho 30s seeing as they are a bit taller than the low height versions?
So as stated in the vid it applies if you are locked on certain tires, so all in your race uses the same, then you Can use it for higher topspeed than the people you race against. And i only do it in the rear, because it will have another effect, adding rake, i will Make a vid on rake. But the front needs no ekstra tape, as it does not pull on those wheels. Yes however you add diameter to your wheels (tape or taller tires) it will yield the same result
It is also important to note that if you are NOT restricted/locked in gear ratio, that increasing the diameter of the tire can have a worse driving experience in comparison. The tire will have more rotational inertia, and be slower to accelerate. The tire will also be stretched slightly more, which will stiffen the rubber and lower the traction. The only time to really consider this would be to try to gain speed by the extra rollout.
These videos have been so informative and have given me a lot of ideas. A lot to take in, but so much great info. As with so many things, the devil is in the detail. Thanks for all of your time and effort. It's greatly appreciated.
![How to Make Mini z box Stock FAST [Basic] Part 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/w90HjsJnjlk/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Make Mini z box Stock FAST [Basic] Part 1](/img/tr.png)
![How to choose a MINI Z race body [basic]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SVCkdcPzgEM/mqdefault.jpg)
Surprised that you dont solder the wire direct to the PCB (maybe it is not permitted in your box stock rules?). When I ran box stock, and any Mini-Z, I always direct soldered the wires to the board. Reduces stress on the screw terminals which do wear over time, and a screw loosens slightly from the vibration which can lose power... you always have a good connection and lower resistance than with the screw terminals.
A couple points to add for your viewers...
I also solder the power wires from the board to the battery terminals rather than screw them. The same is done with the transponder wires. As well as pull the negative terminals out just a little to make it tighter on the battery for better contact. As you continuously install batteries into the car, the battery tabs compress, and eventually loosen... so this is something to check during the maintenance cycle to ensure that cells always make good contact. Also CLEAN the contacts from time to time with a Qtip and alcohol. Batteries often vent, and can corrode the contacts.
To add for diff prep: On the left wheel adapter, I sand just a little on face where it would butt against the bearing. This allows the wheel nut to be tightened fully, and sand in a slight bevel so that only the inner race of the bearing would touch the adapter. When complete, you would want to be able to fully tighten the nut with .2mm clearance for the adapter to the bearing while the diff assembly side is touching the bearing on the opposite side of the pod.
The primary reason to grease the diff internals is to prevent unloading of the diff during chatter. Since RCP is bumpy by nature due to the seams, and slightly uneven tile height, it is very easy to unload the diff mid corner, and the grease provides a consistent tension to be able to have the wheels be able to apply the power rather than one side slipping and the other gripping and the power going nowhere. As you said, the optimal grease changes from track to track, but just having a tiny dab of grease is better than nothing. Its important not to pack the diff full of grease, as that will leak out and get all over the tire, car and track. Just a little is needed, and less is better than more, as more will just leave the diff...
The Mini-Z MR03 chassis is a very good car, and you would be surprised by how much you can improve the performance while not "upgrading" it with option parts. I always mention that it is more about HOW the parts are installed and setup than what upgrades are put onto the car. For those looking to go into box stock, and then upgrade into a more open stock class, the first thing to get would be a disc damper... and that one change will make a big difference with the calmness of the car and how hard you can drive it into and through the corners.
Thank you for the great reply.
As for the motor contact, there is rules for this, as it is “extreme” box Stock, so no soldering of any parts. But the wire change is okay as Long as it has loops.
There will be alot more detail vids, with among other things, maintenance and fixes for common problems, and wear.
Good points, pinned the comment 👍
@@WobbelyTable Your series has been great so far. I have been asked to create a YT channel and do similar series of information, but I am camera shy.
@@EMU1 thank you very much, and you Seem very well wandered in mini z’, i myself is relativly new to the z’s but have race well over 15 other classes, among 1/12scale on national and international level, so i fell the pull of knowledge from that is useful here, and was very fed up with vids of people putting on parts and claiming this did wonders for them.
And also its a Basics video so i did not want to go batsh!t crazy on stuff that hold very little gain for the normal box Stock driver 😄👍
@@WobbelyTable I started mini-z in 2004, so have been through many transitions in the scale. There is a lot of talk about upgrading the cars, even before the potential is brought out of the base kit on a track. Racers want to go fast, often faster than their ability can support out of the box. This leads them down a path of trying to buy their speed, and not being able to understand what each change of the car does. When I was learning, I spent a lot of time looking at setup theory for 1/12 scale cars, because they best translated to the mini-z.
That is why I think your series is very well done, in that it separates many of the parts of the car, shows what those parts do, and shows how to gain optimal performance without upgrading to option parts.
Great video series. I have enjoyed seeing the many ways you actually can make adjustments to the setup of the cars. My kids and I got into mini-z box stock a couple months ago and this has been very informative.
great tips on getting the most of out of your box stock car, thank you
Great vids! Keep up the great content!
Thanks man will do
at 1:32 you can see your tires have marks in the, like a hole of sorts on each. Is this intentional?
I've been really enjoying your tutorials! Very informative. I have 2 questions about taping your tires to make them bigger, do you do this for both front and rear and if so, will you get the same benefit from taping 2 or 3 times by using the original/standard height kyosho 30s seeing as they are a bit taller than the low height versions?
So as stated in the vid it applies if you are locked on certain tires, so all in your race uses the same, then you Can use it for higher topspeed than the people you race against.
And i only do it in the rear, because it will have another effect, adding rake, i will Make a vid on rake. But the front needs no ekstra tape, as it does not pull on those wheels.
Yes however you add diameter to your wheels (tape or taller tires) it will yield the same result
It is also important to note that if you are NOT restricted/locked in gear ratio, that increasing the diameter of the tire can have a worse driving experience in comparison. The tire will have more rotational inertia, and be slower to accelerate. The tire will also be stretched slightly more, which will stiffen the rubber and lower the traction. The only time to really consider this would be to try to gain speed by the extra rollout.
Hi thx for your videos. Could you suggest tires to race on carpet
These videos have been so informative and have given me a lot of ideas. A lot to take in, but so much great info. As with so many things, the devil is in the detail. Thanks for all of your time and effort. It's greatly appreciated.
No problem man, I do it for the community, so its great to hear that it helps 👍