I dont see anyone talking about the possible big factor of the shutter failure that is so common on the EA288 gen , the G13 and the excessive amount of silicate on the system . This system was engineered to cool with the original G13 coolant with the help of a bag of silicate hidden inside the bottle expansion (there are 2 main bottles equiped with this EA288 engines, one you can see the bag and pull it out , the second you can't, its inside the inner wall of the bottle) The excessive of silicate and the lack of maintenance of the coolant can significantly contribute to problems inside the heater core (partial or total blockage) and ,consequently, to engine head problems (like a big crack on the head) for lack of coolant... this occurs because the auxiliary circuit runs trough the heater core and passes to the head engine . In my mind this can contribute to the shutter problem aswell . Ppl should change the coolant for the new G12evo and change it every 3\4 years , the circuit is partially separated in 3 loops , removing the wp doest drain all of it . the newer bottle expansion doesnt have the silicate bag
@Danidasanic I had that problem, fortunately the matrix is easy to change, the silicone bag had not broken but the matrix was coated in silicone. I replaced the bottle as well, the bag was hidden inside and I cut the old bottle open to inspect it. Trying to flush the matrix or system seems to cause more issues as more silicone will come lose in the pipes.
@@JohnSmith-ef8nr its silicate bag and they aren't known to rip , the problem is the silicate concentration in the system . You can try to flush the heater core after being removed. Never had this problem because the first I did was flushing the circuit
Funny watching this now, the pump on my 2017 2.0 TDI with 106000kms went a few weeks ago for this exact problem. Cost me almost 700€ pump plus timing belt kit, labour was only around 100 euros and the rest was VW original parts! Parts are stupid expensive from VW!
In our case (160.000km, had 1 timing belt service so far) the water pump worked properly, but in a bit higher usage like going up to a hill in a highway, the temperature just rised so quickly we had to lower the engine load. If you did this video a year ago you could save me about 200 euro, because of this stupid design the ECU didn't know where is the problem, so we tought first the water temperature sensor was broken, sadly no.. Anyway it was my frist debuging on our car, and it was interesting. I tought about make it a "dumb" pump with removeing the cable, but I was a bit worried to screw something up, and brick the engine. :D I think this waterpump needs a redesign..
This issue is well known. The planned lifespan / service cycle of these pumps are 210k kms or 5 years. If any of those are exceeded you have no right to complain... I changed mine @209k kms at the age little less than 5 years. I still have it somewhere.
It is made by Germans using a rule book. The Germans who made it gave you the instructions on how to use it. If you go out of the boundaries you're using the product wrong. This is the difference between japanese and German engineering.
Waterpump revision was revised long time ago... like ages ago the revised part number has a N at the end, use to be common issue starting 2013but kind of dissapeared with that revision in 2018 if i remember right. If a diesel would been used as it should for high millage per year most affected would of had a cambelt change and water pump by now anyway... the aftermarket with no sleeve pump will help to contribute at reducing the life of dpf egr cooler and so on as engi e will take longer to get to temperature.
it says to change the timing belt kit at every 180.000 km but better change it at 125.000 and max 5 years, especially because many of these euro 6 engines had failures on the timig belt side. It was a known problem for Dayco timing kits. Some cars lasted 230.000 km others only 90.000 km...
Only OE timing kits have 190-210 000 change interval or 5 years what ever come first. All the aftermarket kits like Dayco, Conti etc. have 50 000 or 2 years, they can last up to 100 000 with annual checks of the belt and bearings every 10 000km and when they fail need to be changed.
@@joroivgeorgiev incorrect , Every continental timing belt kit meets the manufacturer standarts , so the change interval is what the manual says . "The checking and replacement intervals are always specified by the vehicle manufacturer and must be complied with." Ask them if you don't believe
Waterpumps from VAG group are terrible crap. I own a skoda 2014 1.6 tdi bought it with 120.000 and i am already up for the second waterpump with 200.000 km. The last one broke down with 60.000 km....really...what a crapshow.
I just came from the dealer and they say that I have to change my pump. I also think what will it happen if remove the solenoid. My main problem is I don’t know when to remove it, with cold engine or hot. My pump only have problems once or two time a week mainly where is cold outside
Dislodging the solenoid from the switchable pump may bring the eml on, so having a new non switchable pump with the old solenoid attached to it is blank housing would be the right choice for not bringing the eml.
The pump on my 2015 b8, 110kw, passat started making noises around 145k, started losing water at around 150k. The same happend to my friend around similar km.
In my VW Golf, I try to put apple-car play and android-auto with your patch. I follow your tutorial, with the patch and I get android auto, car play but android auto go, but car play not. I have enable apple dio but the car doesn't read applecarplay but only android auto . Any solution?
Guys... My car is golf 2.0tdi 2014 model. I have on the clock 104k miles. I had the original time belt + water pump replaced at 66k miles (after 5 years), and I have another kit fitted today after 4 years and 38k miles. This design is shit. VW know about this and they dont recall it. I went there and in 2 hours they knew exactly what the problem is and is a problem that was intermitten.... They know this is failing every around 45k miles. Is a £900 job as I always change timing belt as well...bastards
I dont see anyone talking about the possible big factor of the shutter failure that is so common on the EA288 gen , the G13 and the excessive amount of silicate on the system . This system was engineered to cool with the original G13 coolant with the help of a bag of silicate hidden inside the bottle expansion (there are 2 main bottles equiped with this EA288 engines, one you can see the bag and pull it out , the second you can't, its inside the inner wall of the bottle) The excessive of silicate and the lack of maintenance of the coolant can significantly contribute to problems inside the heater core (partial or total blockage) and ,consequently, to engine head problems (like a big crack on the head) for lack of coolant... this occurs because the auxiliary circuit runs trough the heater core and passes to the head engine . In my mind this can contribute to the shutter problem aswell . Ppl should change the coolant for the new G12evo and change it every 3\4 years , the circuit is partially separated in 3 loops , removing the wp doest drain all of it . the newer bottle expansion doesnt have the silicate bag
People should just stop buying new diesel engines. Too much maintain. Toyota dynamic force engines already have efficiency of up to 43%
Caro amico puoi sintetizzare la tua soluzione? Polo 1.4 tdi 2015 60.000 km pompa ancora sana.grazie da italia
@Danidasanic
I had that problem, fortunately the matrix is easy to change, the silicone bag had not broken but the matrix was coated in silicone.
I replaced the bottle as well, the bag was hidden inside and I cut the old bottle open to inspect it.
Trying to flush the matrix or system seems to cause more issues as more silicone will come lose in the pipes.
@@JohnSmith-ef8nr its silicate bag and they aren't known to rip , the problem is the silicate concentration in the system . You can try to flush the heater core after being removed. Never had this problem because the first I did was flushing the circuit
@Danidasanic
I fitted a new matrix as there not expensive, i flushed the old one out of interest after I took it out, it was full of silicone flakes.
I had the seal fail on my 2014 Passat B7 with EA189 2.0TDI. This was such a shitshow, glad that the used car warranty covered it :D
Funny watching this now, the pump on my 2017 2.0 TDI with 106000kms went a few weeks ago for this exact problem. Cost me almost 700€ pump plus timing belt kit, labour was only around 100 euros and the rest was VW original parts! Parts are stupid expensive from VW!
aftermarket or oem parts? the continental kit costs between 200€ -300€
In my VW Caddy 2.0 TDI the Pump failed on 90.000km and we changed it with the continental replacement set.
In our case (160.000km, had 1 timing belt service so far) the water pump worked properly, but in a bit higher usage like going up to a hill in a highway, the temperature just rised so quickly we had to lower the engine load.
If you did this video a year ago you could save me about 200 euro, because of this stupid design the ECU didn't know where is the problem, so we tought first the water temperature sensor was broken, sadly no.. Anyway it was my frist debuging on our car, and it was interesting.
I tought about make it a "dumb" pump with removeing the cable, but I was a bit worried to screw something up, and brick the engine. :D
I think this waterpump needs a redesign..
This issue is well known. The planned lifespan / service cycle of these pumps are 210k kms or 5 years. If any of those are exceeded you have no right to complain...
I changed mine @209k kms at the age little less than 5 years. I still have it somewhere.
It is made by Germans using a rule book. The Germans who made it gave you the instructions on how to use it. If you go out of the boundaries you're using the product wrong. This is the difference between japanese and German engineering.
Every timing belt interval in VW group of 210k km is for 10years , not 5
@@Danidasanic depends on the country. I think that dust can deteriorate belts faster.
Waterpump revision was revised long time ago... like ages ago the revised part number has a N at the end, use to be common issue starting 2013but kind of dissapeared with that revision in 2018 if i remember right. If a diesel would been used as it should for high millage per year most affected would of had a cambelt change and water pump by now anyway... the aftermarket with no sleeve pump will help to contribute at reducing the life of dpf egr cooler and so on as engi e will take longer to get to temperature.
it says to change the timing belt kit at every 180.000 km but better change it at 125.000 and max 5 years, especially because many of these euro 6 engines had failures on the timig belt side. It was a known problem for Dayco timing kits. Some cars lasted 230.000 km others only 90.000 km...
Only OE timing kits have 190-210 000 change interval or 5 years what ever come first. All the aftermarket kits like Dayco, Conti etc. have 50 000 or 2 years, they can last up to 100 000 with annual checks of the belt and bearings every 10 000km and when they fail need to be changed.
@@joroivgeorgiev incorrect , Every continental timing belt kit meets the manufacturer standarts , so the change interval is what the manual says . "The checking and replacement intervals are always specified by the vehicle manufacturer and must be complied with." Ask them if you don't believe
@@Danidasanic dude i doubt the replacement kit can last 210,000km...
@@dragospahontu replacemert kits are due changing every 180.000 km
Original kit of car 210.000
@@dragospahontu mine have 210000 working fine
Very interesting, although on that pump the bearings seen shot.
Waterpumps from VAG group are terrible crap. I own a skoda 2014 1.6 tdi bought it with 120.000 and i am already up for the second waterpump with 200.000 km. The last one broke down with 60.000 km....really...what a crapshow.
I just came from the dealer and they say that I have to change my pump. I also think what will it happen if remove the solenoid. My main problem is I don’t know when to remove it, with cold engine or hot. My pump only have problems once or two time a week mainly where is cold outside
Dislodging the solenoid from the switchable pump may bring the eml on, so having a new non switchable pump with the old solenoid attached to it is blank housing would be the right choice for not bringing the eml.
You still need to fit the solenoid though to stop the error code with a non switching pump.
The pump on my 2015 b8, 110kw, passat started making noises around 145k, started losing water at around 150k. The same happend to my friend around similar km.
Classic TDI water pump😅
In my VW Golf, I try to put apple-car play and android-auto with your patch. I follow your tutorial, with the patch and I get android auto, car play but android auto go, but car play not. I have enable apple dio but the car doesn't read applecarplay but only android auto . Any solution?
You need to change the USB port on your car to use CarPlay
In mine Leon 5F water pump last 136kkm, it just felt apart, when I was changing the timing belt. Poor design:/
Bună ziua ce pompa de apa ai avut la seat cuplabila cu fir sau fără fir, ieu am un seat 5f 1.6 diesel?
Guys... My car is golf 2.0tdi 2014 model. I have on the clock 104k miles.
I had the original time belt + water pump replaced at 66k miles (after 5 years), and I have another kit fitted today after 4 years and 38k miles.
This design is shit. VW know about this and they dont recall it.
I went there and in 2 hours they knew exactly what the problem is and is a problem that was intermitten.... They know this is failing every around 45k miles. Is a £900 job as I always change timing belt as well...bastards