I just had the same issue with a 135i I picked up for $4000 dollars. I just pulled the whole engine in my driveway and took off the oil pan and valve cover cleaning out all the rubber pieces then installed a new crank seal, oil pan gasket, and valve cover gasket. We had the engine back in and the car running the next day. It only took two days to do all of it. I would say pulling the entire engine is the easiest thing to do.
Greetings! I'm literally going thru the same thing with my 2008 E60 535i right now :) Belt shredded and got sucked in thru the front crank seal. I was stupid enough to keep driving for another 7-10 miles thinking it's just my alternator that crapped out... lol. I did pop open VC and inspected timing chain and guides, no belt debris there. @ 112k VCG was overdue anyways, so that took care of that, lol. Shreds of that belt logged themselves so badly behind idler pulleys, alternator pulley and of course belt tensioner I just opted for replacing them. Front crank seal replacement was not too bad with the right tool (got one from ebay for under $200). Now I'm on to oil pan removal and this project would be the most involved thing I've ever done when it comes to cars. After watching lots of youtube videos and reading everything I could find on this topic I'm pretty intimidated. Especially after looking into the TIS. My car has both dynamic drive and active steering + auto trans which makes it for a mess of all sorts of lines which appear to be in the way of a subframe. So, at this point I'm really looking up to you, my friend, and waiting impatiently for the next part in this series since I'm really hoping to solve this DIY style :) Cheers!
Oh man, I'm sorry to hear that, it totally sucks! Yes you've got the worst of all options, however it is doable, just not terribly fun. Be sure to order all new aluminum bolts for the oil pan, and I'd recommend doing the oil deflector and oil pump bolts while you're in there. I've got to edit and upload the next two parts to this, so you'll be able to see what came out of the oil pickup tube. Good luck with the project and let me know if you have any questions on the process!
Hello, I'm glad to hear that you like the videos. The intake location doesn't matter here since the intercooler gets enough airflow and I've got water / methanol injection on boost, so my IAT's never get high fortunately.
Depending on the year of your car, there are either 6 or 8 smaller bolts surrounding the large bolt. Those are the bolts that need to be removed, then the crank pulley will come out. Just make sure you do not remove the big center bolt, you will mess up your timing.
I’m going thru a similar issue had a leak from the right hose of the oil cooler and since I ordered the vtt delete plate with an fittings to run an aftermarket oil cooler I was like 1 more week of driving it no big deal been driving it for a month luckily when my car started to smoke I pulled over and right when I was going to turn it off was when my battery light came on didn’t notice any other lights... did the belt and pulleys checked the crank seal since it was a new seal with less than 5kmiles luckily wasn’t broken and no pieces of belt went thru it but now my car won’t start and just shows vanos codes of cams not synched
There's a few things that can cause the vanos codes and no start issue. I would first check the solenoids and clean them out with MAF cleaner. It's a very temporary fix, if it works. If it does work, replace the sensors with new ones. If not, then you may have either spun your crank hub or the cam ledges have worn down enough to cause vanos issues. I have also seen vanos failures where the cam bolts break or back out as well.
Yea I did that because I installed the vanos solenoids about 10k miles ago because I was having issues with the half engine light and being fully derrated because of the exhaust solenoid... honestly after I sprayed it since my kdcan cable isn’t synching to my car idk of the vamos codes have been coming back on cus when I use a handheld scan tool they only show 2 codes for the camshaft sensors but I pulled them out and they weren’t broken tried checking for voltage and all good but I live in AZ and it’s really hot here so I haven’t really taken much of an interest in continuing the check the car until I saw your video and now I’m sorta willing to work thru to take off the valve cover to double check inside to see if I spot anything else
Hey dude, my belt got Shredded 2days ago in bmw e92 328i 2011 and I didn’t notice it got broke until I got home I drove it 5miles to get home, so I replaced the belt and I turned the car on I hear no noises it seems nothing wired, but how I can make sure the belt didn’t Sucked in or not. Please I need you Opinion. Thank you🙏
Hey man, sorry to hear that. My suggestion is to not drive it until you've verified that the belt didn't get ingested through the crank seal. Take off the crank pulley and check for the condition of the seal. If it's been compromised, you need to pull the oil pan, but if looks fine, you dodged a bullet. Better to be safe than sorry.
Why does BMW have this issue? Great looking cars but they can run, but you gotta baby them always checking stuff, because if you don't, end result leaks, shredded belt, i really should have did my homework before purchase. Its time consuming i work early in the mornings hard to get around to working on myself. 😮😢
Get one of these and get cheap ($69.00) piece of mind. Your belt may go, but your engine will survive. Vargas Turbo Technologies BILLET BMW N54/55 Crank Seal Guard . I just put mine on and am a lot less apprehensive about gunning it now. LOL
I just had the same issue with a 135i I picked up for $4000 dollars. I just pulled the whole engine in my driveway and took off the oil pan and valve cover cleaning out all the rubber pieces then installed a new crank seal, oil pan gasket, and valve cover gasket. We had the engine back in and the car running the next day. It only took two days to do all of it. I would say pulling the entire engine is the easiest thing to do.
Greetings!
I'm literally going thru the same thing with my 2008 E60 535i right now :) Belt shredded and got sucked in thru the front crank seal. I was stupid enough to keep driving for another 7-10 miles thinking it's just my alternator that crapped out... lol.
I did pop open VC and inspected timing chain and guides, no belt debris there. @ 112k VCG was overdue anyways, so that took care of that, lol. Shreds of that belt logged themselves so badly behind idler pulleys, alternator pulley and of course belt tensioner I just opted for replacing them. Front crank seal replacement was not too bad with the right tool (got one from ebay for under $200).
Now I'm on to oil pan removal and this project would be the most involved thing I've ever done when it comes to cars. After watching lots of youtube videos and reading everything I could find on this topic I'm pretty intimidated. Especially after looking into the TIS. My car has both dynamic drive and active steering + auto trans which makes it for a mess of all sorts of lines which appear to be in the way of a subframe.
So, at this point I'm really looking up to you, my friend, and waiting impatiently for the next part in this series since I'm really hoping to solve this DIY style :)
Cheers!
Oh man, I'm sorry to hear that, it totally sucks! Yes you've got the worst of all options, however it is doable, just not terribly fun. Be sure to order all new aluminum bolts for the oil pan, and I'd recommend doing the oil deflector and oil pump bolts while you're in there. I've got to edit and upload the next two parts to this, so you'll be able to see what came out of the oil pickup tube. Good luck with the project and let me know if you have any questions on the process!
@@FoulNews Cool deal! You supportive comment makes me quite a bit more enthused about this whole endeavor! :)
@@dpersh76 Glad to hear!
hey man like ur videos, do those intakes mind breathing in the hot air under the hood,?
Hello, I'm glad to hear that you like the videos. The intake location doesn't matter here since the intercooler gets enough airflow and I've got water / methanol injection on boost, so my IAT's never get high fortunately.
How to you take the crank shaft pulley off without taking the bolt off?
Depending on the year of your car, there are either 6 or 8 smaller bolts surrounding the large bolt. Those are the bolts that need to be removed, then the crank pulley will come out. Just make sure you do not remove the big center bolt, you will mess up your timing.
At this very moment the ONLY differences between our cars is the year and xdrive. Do you have any more pics of the damaged seal?
I’m going thru a similar issue had a leak from the right hose of the oil cooler and since I ordered the vtt delete plate with an fittings to run an aftermarket oil cooler I was like 1 more week of driving it no big deal been driving it for a month luckily when my car started to smoke I pulled over and right when I was going to turn it off was when my battery light came on didn’t notice any other lights... did the belt and pulleys checked the crank seal since it was a new seal with less than 5kmiles luckily wasn’t broken and no pieces of belt went thru it but now my car won’t start and just shows vanos codes of cams not synched
There's a few things that can cause the vanos codes and no start issue. I would first check the solenoids and clean them out with MAF cleaner. It's a very temporary fix, if it works. If it does work, replace the sensors with new ones. If not, then you may have either spun your crank hub or the cam ledges have worn down enough to cause vanos issues. I have also seen vanos failures where the cam bolts break or back out as well.
Yea I did that because I installed the vanos solenoids about 10k miles ago because I was having issues with the half engine light and being fully derrated because of the exhaust solenoid... honestly after I sprayed it since my kdcan cable isn’t synching to my car idk of the vamos codes have been coming back on cus when I use a handheld scan tool they only show 2 codes for the camshaft sensors but I pulled them out and they weren’t broken tried checking for voltage and all good but I live in AZ and it’s really hot here so I haven’t really taken much of an interest in continuing the check the car until I saw your video and now I’m sorta willing to work thru to take off the valve cover to double check inside to see if I spot anything else
Hey dude, my belt got Shredded 2days ago in bmw e92 328i 2011 and I didn’t notice it got broke until I got home I drove it 5miles to get home, so I replaced the belt and I turned the car on I hear no noises it seems nothing wired, but how I can make sure the belt didn’t Sucked in or not. Please I need you Opinion. Thank you🙏
Hey man, sorry to hear that. My suggestion is to not drive it until you've verified that the belt didn't get ingested through the crank seal. Take off the crank pulley and check for the condition of the seal. If it's been compromised, you need to pull the oil pan, but if looks fine, you dodged a bullet. Better to be safe than sorry.
Foul News Tnx a lot brother I really appreciate 🙏
@@GhostDante1 no prob. Good luck!
Did the car turn on when this happened?
Yes it still started, but I didn't let it run for more than a few seconds.
Why does BMW have this issue? Great looking cars but they can run, but you gotta baby them always checking stuff, because if you don't, end result leaks, shredded belt, i really should have did my homework before purchase. Its time consuming i work early in the mornings hard to get around to working on myself. 😮😢
Get one of these and get cheap ($69.00) piece of mind. Your belt may go, but your engine will survive. Vargas Turbo Technologies BILLET BMW N54/55 Crank Seal Guard
. I just put mine on and am a lot less apprehensive about gunning it now. LOL