I don't know what's more amazing. The fact that there are so many 3D printers on the market and coming to the market or the fact Vlad seems to be covering reviewing them all. lol Great job Vlad!
@@EpicDrake yes it will eventually crush and it will try to go up for a few seconds and force the motors but it’s totally normal, it has to do it in order to level the z axis, just like the Prusa MK3S.
Indeed. Got the printer recently and one of the first things I did it design a pully for it. Aditionally I found that I needed to print at higher temperatures then I normally would to prevent the printer from feeding filament faster than it could extruded it. After doing both of these things, issues with underextrusion seem to be fixed.
You're idea of pretty good is different than mine. Thanks for your review thought. I was thinking about backing this project, but now I'll wait for companies to figure out IDEX.
@Just Vlad, You should do another review on this printer because we Kickstarters found our machine had cheaper parts that would break plus alot of the Kickstarter didn't even get their printers."Everything is cheap and breakable. I've broken two PC4-M6 Fittings with the lightest of touches. The runout sensor is wearing away because it's plastic, plus the top is missing because they fly off. Bed adhesion is terrible and the sensor only works with steel plates. Changing to a PEI spring sheet would be a must in my opinion. The linear rail isn't smooth. It's like it has sand in it. The copper nozzles are cheap rubbish and wear out quickly. The machine will layer shift randomly. Resetting fixes this, however, when every gram of filament is money down the drain it's not acceptable. This happens a lot more on the dual print side-by-side mode for me. Dual colour will leak sometimes even with all the measures to stop it." The brushes were not copper but just nylon. We didn't get the red stripes, we didn't get the extra goal nozzles and this if you were lucky to get one at all. The runout sensor didn't have screws in like yours did and they are even thinner. Mine has already worn out.
I've got to tell you I got the jgmaker artist d and hated it and returned it for a refund, bed leveling was almost impossible and changed every couple of prints, I got a replacement after the first too and still
Hello good vidéo. Just a question , i'm interested but i'm afraid by the bowden in plastic... is not better a direct drive? and you think it's possible to change for a all metal? And how about the quality on single print color pla? thanks a lot. (sorry i'm french my english is bad :p)
I agree with you re the Z-axis needing to have a sync belt, I want one of these but it has to have that Z-axis synced with a belt,I have seen four reviews of the X40 and each one has slight differences, I wish they would wait until they have a decent Beta before sending them out for review as I won't make a purchase decision based on an early prototype.
Why does this remind me of the Sunlu s8? That's not a criticism. I have one. Like it. If there is a connection I might consider buying one regardless of the firmware issues.
I'm looking at possibly getting this. It would be my first 3d printer. After having some time with it since this video, would you recommend it or a different printer?
Been watching your 3d printing videos and loving them. My plan is to wait about one more year just to see what comes of the market. I am watching videos now just to get an feel for where they are going. But one question I have is that if you keep a data base of all printers you have tested and keep a running grade for each one you test? This way if you give a companies printer a bad grade, they can always re-send you an updated version for you to test and update any score you have given them.
Can I ask you if you could share your Cura profile for BIQU B1? I got a printer but it didn't have the profile on card and it is hard to get the settings right.
@@JustVlads which one would recommend between the JG Maker Artist D and the Weedo X40. If I were to guess it appears you might prefer the print results from the Weedo X40? If you could also tell us why. It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
@@ferreiratjd "The motherboard designed with MOSFET, we have also designed an SSR board separately, which is connected with the motherboard through the IO port to realize automatic shutdown after printing finish."
you should be able to turn the thin wall off in slicer, and please do extrusion calibration everytime you get a new printer. Man you reviewed so many printer but rarely tune the printer.
I personally like to see reviews which show what a printer does out of the box, only doing the steps that are essential and mostly described in the documentation (like bedleveling). I believe there are many users that use a printer just that way and maybe only later start to optimize that way. If a printer, like the X40, does already a good job right out of the box, I doubt that it could disappoint a more experienced user, who wants to optimize the printer to the limit.
@@michaelguennewig6722 , a printer sent to a reviewer may not be exactly representative of a randomly purchased one. And this one was a preproduction unit. He should have corrected the under extrusion and print again to show the difference. Not being able to correct under extrusion would be a serious flaw.
this printer has too many issues right out of the box. I would absolutely do a firmware upgrade and then possibly after many teaks, it could be a good printer.
New Channel: www.youtube.com/@Just_Print
I just got one of these and I’m super glad you did a video on it!
I don't know what's more amazing. The fact that there are so many 3D printers on the market and coming to the market or the fact Vlad seems to be covering reviewing them all. lol Great job Vlad!
This printer go up to calibrate the z motors for equal distance on both sides. So you need you must let it rise and don't worry.
So it won't crash?
@@EpicDrake yes it will eventually crush and it will try to go up for a few seconds and force the motors but it’s totally normal, it has to do it in order to level the z axis, just like the Prusa MK3S.
He was right about the rubbing as the filament feeds into the extruder, gonna need to design a pulley or something for it
Leaves a pretty noticeable indention after I've had it for a month
Indeed. Got the printer recently and one of the first things I did it design a pully for it. Aditionally I found that I needed to print at higher temperatures then I normally would to prevent the printer from feeding filament faster than it could extruded it. After doing both of these things, issues with underextrusion seem to be fixed.
You're idea of pretty good is different than mine.
Thanks for your review thought. I was thinking about backing this project, but now I'll wait for companies to figure out IDEX.
@Just Vlad, You should do another review on this printer because we Kickstarters found our machine had cheaper parts that would break plus alot of the Kickstarter didn't even get their printers."Everything is cheap and breakable. I've broken two PC4-M6 Fittings with the lightest of touches. The runout sensor is wearing away because it's plastic, plus the top is missing because they fly off. Bed adhesion is terrible and the sensor only works with steel plates. Changing to a PEI spring sheet would be a must in my opinion. The linear rail isn't smooth. It's like it has sand in it. The copper nozzles are cheap rubbish and wear out quickly. The machine will layer shift randomly. Resetting fixes this, however, when every gram of filament is money down the drain it's not acceptable. This happens a lot more on the dual print side-by-side mode for me. Dual colour will leak sometimes even with all the measures to stop it." The brushes were not copper but just nylon. We didn't get the red stripes, we didn't get the extra goal nozzles and this if you were lucky to get one at all. The runout sensor didn't have screws in like yours did and they are even thinner. Mine has already worn out.
Could it be possible, that it moved the Z-axis to the top to make sure it is level with the frame by simply crashing it into the top?
I think you are right, but would of liked to see it synced with a belt instead.
How does this compare to the JG maker artist d
It is better in most ways, definitely buy this one you’ll be a lot more pleased
How do you get your nozzles to purge over the brushes in cura
I think it’s taking Auto measurements every print because you said a default G code to do that possibly
Any chance you could put direct drive on both of the toolheads?
Hey Vlad,
I saw that you also did a review of the JG Maker Artist-D What is the comparison between JG Maker and the Weedo x40?
I've got to tell you I got the jgmaker artist d and hated it and returned it for a refund, bed leveling was almost impossible and changed every couple of prints, I got a replacement after the first too and still
Hello good vidéo. Just a question , i'm interested but i'm afraid by the bowden in plastic... is not better a direct drive? and you think it's possible to change for a all metal?
And how about the quality on single print color pla?
thanks a lot. (sorry i'm french my english is bad :p)
what slicing software did you use? I cant seem to find the x40 on either of cura's or wiibuilder's printer lists
Weedo has there own software very similar to cura
Hi Vlad, there is a full manual on the sd card...
The Amazon link is not correct.
Did I miss the part about the camera on the printer? Great review though
Hi. What is silver and gold filament manufacturer?
Geeetech: geni.us/Llny
I agree with you re the Z-axis needing to have a sync belt, I want one of these but it has to have that Z-axis synced with a belt,I have seen four reviews of the X40 and each one has slight differences, I wish they would wait until they have a decent Beta before sending them out for review as I won't make a purchase decision based on an early prototype.
Which is your favourite IDEX printer?
Nice video!
Can you review the Prusa Mini?
I believe he just does only 3d printers that are offered on amazon. So, the prusa printers probably won't be reviered
How do I order 1. I tried on the kickstar didnt understand it.
Mike
Why does this remind me of the Sunlu s8? That's not a criticism. I have one. Like it. If there is a connection I might consider buying one regardless of the firmware issues.
Muchas gracias por la amplia y clara explicación sobre esta impresora. Me sirvió mucho de ayuda.
Awesome time lapse videos!
I'm looking at possibly getting this. It would be my first 3d printer. After having some time with it since this video, would you recommend it or a different printer?
what slicer setting is it to print with the small shield ?
how much was this ?
its $399 on kickstarter early bird
Been watching your 3d printing videos and loving them. My plan is to wait about one more year just to see what comes of the market. I am watching videos now just to get an feel for where they are going. But one question I have is that if you keep a data base of all printers you have tested and keep a running grade for each one you test? This way if you give a companies printer a bad grade, they can always re-send you an updated version for you to test and update any score you have given them.
Can I ask you if you could share your Cura profile for BIQU B1? I got a printer but it didn't have the profile on card and it is hard to get the settings right.
Siema! Use just the ender 3 profile in cura
@@3dg3nesis To naprawde dalo tak dobre efekty? Niesamowite. Dzieki za odpowiedz!
@@piotrg7954 tak :-)
From what I've seen from both your unbox/setup of both KS IDEX printers, I feel the JG Artist D would still be the better printer, would you agree?
I would say that this printer does much better when it comes to color/material bleeding. Dual color models come out clean on the X40.
And has auto leveling and I think that JG does not have.
@@JustVlads which one would recommend between the JG Maker Artist D and the Weedo X40. If I were to guess it appears you might prefer the print results from the Weedo X40? If you could also tell us why. It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
For me idex, bedlevel and having autoshutdown feature is safe feature. I would have like to see mosfets but they can be added easily.
@@ferreiratjd "The motherboard designed with MOSFET, we have also designed an SSR board separately, which is connected with the motherboard through the IO port to realize automatic shutdown after printing finish."
I would bet that the those brushes are (coincidentally) just the exact same size as the cheap ones you can buy from harbor freight....
Nice video bro 😻❤️
Thanks!
How much is this printer trying to go on the website but not very helpful. Unless you a backer
you should be able to turn the thin wall off in slicer, and please do extrusion calibration everytime you get a new printer. Man you reviewed so many printer but rarely tune the printer.
I personally like to see reviews which show what a printer does out of the box, only doing the steps that are essential and mostly described in the documentation (like bedleveling). I believe there are many users that use a printer just that way and maybe only later start to optimize that way.
If a printer, like the X40, does already a good job right out of the box, I doubt that it could disappoint a more experienced user, who wants to optimize the printer to the limit.
@@michaelguennewig6722 , a printer sent to a reviewer may not be exactly representative of a randomly purchased one. And this one was a preproduction unit. He should have corrected the under extrusion and print again to show the difference. Not being able to correct under extrusion would be a serious flaw.
I think I'm going to pass on this one. Excellent video as usual, Vlad. Thanks!
Me as a shipping people: "Nope! Just a strange assortment of letters that probably mean something."
How many companies are out there ? It is becoming a jungle .
Good more competition is a Good thing drives prices down and create innovation
Who notice the power led light up when he moved the build plate in the box at the start
This happens on all my printers, electricity strikes again
Totally normal, by spinning the motor you turn it into a generator. Simple electromagnetism 😉
good luck with doble walls around small point thin elements
this printer has too many issues right out of the box. I would absolutely do a firmware upgrade and then possibly after many teaks, it could be a good printer.
👌👍😍
Watched till I learned it's bowden... Who use bowden but dual extrusion....
Crazy... looks like you generated stepper electricity when you moved the bed because the power button light up (blue)!?!
I think that behaviour is very common and therfore you should be very carefull when moving the axis manually.
I don't see how you can recommend this, at all.
Why you say that? I did back it yesterday... hope I did a good thing :D
this looks like a mess of a printer. at the very least they should have put a zsync belt up top.
Nop