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William Casper
Приєднався 9 лют 2013
#50 Switch Stand Laser Kit
Building and installing Osborn Model Kits general purpose switch stand in N Scale.
Переглядів: 169
Відео
#49 Installing Peco PL-11
Переглядів 501Місяць тому
How to install the Peco PL-11 switch motor and camouflage it so that it blends with the scenery.
#47 Painting With Chalk
Переглядів 1054 місяці тому
Using weathering chalk to color your laser wood kits will prevent warping.
#48 Modeling A Metal Roof
Переглядів 464 місяці тому
How to add a rusted, metal corrugated roof to your rural structure.
#46 Modifying Freight Cars
Переглядів 2185 місяців тому
Standard size 90 ton ore cars did not fit under the coal chutes of my coal mine. So, I was forced to alter them to fit. This is how.
#44 Flickering Camp Fire
Переглядів 21811 місяців тому
Flashing lights add movement to static areas of your layout. This clinic shows how to install a flickering camp fire inexpensively.
#42 Furnace Filter Pine Trees
Переглядів 2 тис.Рік тому
Step-by-step instructions on how to make realistic pine trees from green furnace filters and dowels.
#32 Building A Mountain
Переглядів 135Рік тому
A step-by-step tutorial on how to build a mountain with tunnels on your model railroad layout.
Climbing Vines
Переглядів 3732 роки тому
This model railroading clinic shows how to add climbing vines to your layout. It discusses the the several uses for climbing vines.
#37 Sculpting Rock With Joint Compound
Переглядів 1,5 тис.2 роки тому
Using a thick joint compound makes sculpting rocks much easier, though it requires significant drying time. Try this method for yourself and see if you like it as much as I did.
Make Your Own Wooden Tunnel Portals
Переглядів 1,9 тис.2 роки тому
Save money by making your own wooden tunnel portals. A step by step instruction.
#36 Filling A Gap At A Rail Joiner
Переглядів 15 тис.3 роки тому
Absolute proof that you can fill a gap between rails at a rail joiner
#35 Adding Ground Cover To A Verticle Face
Переглядів 953 роки тому
This is another short excerpt from a longer video on building a mountain. It explains specifically how to attach ground cover to a vertical mountain face.
#34 Sculpting Rock Face
Переглядів 3903 роки тому
This excerpt from a future clinic on building a mountain shows how to use Hydrocal molds to create a rock face as well as sculpting your own rock face from plaster.
How To #26 Wiring Your Layout Part II - Powering Your Tracks
Переглядів 1673 роки тому
How To #26 Wiring Your Layout Part II - Powering Your Tracks
How To #25 Wiring Your Layout Part I - Turnout Switch Motors
Переглядів 1,3 тис.3 роки тому
How To #25 Wiring Your Layout Part I - Turnout Switch Motors
Making A Simple Model Structure Interesting
Переглядів 794 роки тому
Making A Simple Model Structure Interesting
Your giving me great advice. So let me return the favor. Please lighten up your videos. Video shows up very dark. Thanks for video.
I appreciate the kind words. Also, once again I apologize for my failings as a videographer.
Great video, the vines add color/realism. Never heard of JTT Scenery so made a note of that as well!
I have seen several people on UA-cam whine about the magnets "never being in the right place". Not a single one of them ever mentioned "Shunting" or moving the cars to the final spot on the rail after uncoupling. This video should be required viewing for all those with Magnetic Uncoupler Syndrome. Very well done, THANK YOU.
I appreciate the kind words. I've made a lot of mistakes learning about model railroading. When I finally get something right, I want others to know about it.
Nice kit and tutorial, William. Looks great. Thanks for sharing the info. Question. Would an n scale figure look proportional if it’s standing next to it? Also, what era do you think that style came out? Thanks.
Good questions. I measured the entire height of my switch stands at 8.5 scale feet and the yellow target measured 2 scale feet. I haven't found anything relating to the proper height of a switch stand, but I have found that the target can be as small as 5.3 inches and as big as 3 feet 4.5 inches. The Osborn switch stand would appear to be somewhere in the middle. As far as era goes, a quick search on the internet revealed nothing; however, remember this: modern trains travel on old tracks and rail lines don't replace anything that still works.
@@williamcasper6215 - Great points, William. Thanks very much.
Pretty awesome tutorial, sir. Thanks for sharing.
I appreciate the kind words.
To those who say, replace the track with a correct length section, I have a rather large gap that has mysteriously appeared at a double slip in amongst other points at a station throat. To lift the track and replace with a short length would definitely not be practical here. Filling the gap as shown will be ideal. So it’s horses for courses:-)
I'm glad you found this tip useful. If you're careful, this fix will last for years as attested to by other commenters below.
Thank you very much
excellent tip, just started a 4x8 layout with flex and this happened...worked like a charm..thanks!..
Always glad to help. Check out my other video clinics by clicking on my picture above.
I've only just seen this, two years after you posted: it is a very useful tip. If I had seen it even a month ago, it would have saved me from replacing a whole track section! 😀 Thanks for posting it. It will almost certainly be useful to me in the future.
I have more useful tips in my other video clinics. Click on the picture next to my name to see them, then choose one you think might be useful to you now.
@@williamcasper6215 Thanks, William. 👍
Great skill builder. Very practical thing to know.
Thanks. Pats on the back are greatly appreciated.
Never seen someone keep some of the plastic sheathing on the wire before when making a tree. Excellent idea and the liquid tape is a great tip.
This was my very first effort at tree making. Although this works, I have an updated clinic called "Making N Scale Trees" which is much more informative. Please check all my clinics by clicking on my picture just below the video.
Super. I've done this since I was a kid. Even though I had short pieces of track available, sometimes I just Thermite welded a piece of rail where one was needed. I add a few ties, maybe a sign or some details, and it gives the track character, and after fifty years, some of my track has a lot of character. I've even seen real railroads do this. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
I'm glad to know I'm not the only one. This is generally a quick fix; however, it does last if you do it right.
thank, you for youre great helpful video]👍
[thank, you for youre great helpful video]👍
[thank, you for you're great helpful video]👍
Been in this hobby for over 50 years and have been a member of several clubs besides having helped with many roads. Only an idiot would have a gap this big...
People who are new to the hobby do not appreciate your crass statement. It is unfair to them and unworthy of you.
@@williamcasper6215 Just your opinion.....Instead, why not teach them that this should never happen on a good road???
I have a clinic on building a complete layout from start to finish where correct track laying procedure is demonstrated. As you can see you don't know everything, so why don't you go back under your bridge and stew in your own vitriol? I hate this "social media" nonsense. I don't care what sophomoric know-it-alls like you think of my clinics!
@@williamcasper6215 I never said that I know it all but all I said was that that video was bad. And no I don't think that I will crawl back under the bridge I live under at all. I will continue to criticise bad videos like the one that started this conversation. All one has to do is to have a car to run over each splice before gluing the track down... Very simple and I'm ashamed that you didn't tell people that.
You never said "that the video was bad"--you said "only an IDIOT would have a gap this big". You are a troll and a moron. This is a video on one way to deal with a gap NOT a track laying video. NOW do you UNDERSTAND! Because I cannot explain it any better than that. I am done with you!
Why did it happen in the first place. I would remove about 3" of track and replace that instead. Those little pieces are troublesome. I see nails in the ties--not a good way to lay down track. Glue does a better job and looks far better.
The nails in the ties will be removed after ballasting. I don't use glue because it makes replacing turnouts and track much easier if ballast is the only thing holding both track and roadbed in place. Working with flex track in and around tunnels and bridges or between hills offers many opportunities for error. This is a quick alternative that can be used when you are exhibiting your layout at a show and are pressed for time. My clinics are designed for the neophyte. I am very pleased that experienced modelers like you are viewing my them.
It looks really good. Do you seal the in the chalk with anything or just leave it as is?
Sealing the chalk is optional. Krylon, Rustoleum and Mod Podge make clear sealants; however, I choose to leave the chalk bare. You risk changing the color and making random blotches when you seal the chalk.
Ok, but what about the huge gap under the rails due to the removal of ties? How do you replace the ties?
One of the cardinal rules of model railroading is: "Never throw away anything!" Simply take the requisite number of ties from your junk box, remove the plastic nubs that originally held the rails in place, then slide the tie(s) under the rails to replace the missing ties. You may spill some CA (super) glue over them, or simply ballast them in place.
I could not see top portion of your video as camera was facing toward table not up high enough. I could not under stand what you called the sprinkle stuff. My main problem is getting the foliage to adhere to the trees. It falls off right away. I've been using what woodland recommended, Hob-e-tac. Have you used it? Why cant I get it to stick and hold the foliage? I will try the Goop, but this project is frustrating as I've tried several adhesives already and nothing has worked.
I apologize for my ineptitude with videography. My more current videos are better. I have used Goop (now called B-7000) with 1st and 2nd graders and it works great with clump foliage. The highlighting sprinkling is Woodland Scenics Fine Turf which is used for grass in small scales. You may want to check my channel (by clicking on my picture) to see more recent clinics on making trees
Very useful….thanks.🤗
Hello can these magnets be used on a Kato track?
It would be a helpful video but your hand is covering your process because of the camera angle!
What if a locomotive has magnetic wheels ?
This clinic shows the results of my own experimentation with powerful rare earth magnets. I have never used the Kadee system or others. None of the members of my club use magnetic uncoupling. Neither have I seen it used at any of the layout tours I have attended over the last 15 years. I used it first in a covered coffee table layout where I could not use sticks for manual uncoupling. This system works so well I don't understand why its use is not more common in the Rocky Mountain region. It wouldn't hurt to view other clinics on UA-cam about Kadee uncoupling systems. Still, once you find something that works every time, you should stick with it. You are correct in that I use Osborn Model Kits for yard markers, crossbucks, hays bumpers, telephone poles, etc. I always use Micro-Trains couplers as I find that they work best for me.
Excellent video. Thanks. I haven't used magnetic de-couplers before. How does this differ from the Magnetic Uncoupler Track pieces I've seen offered? Are the Osborn Model Kits 3053 N Yard Limit Signs the ones you were referring to? Do you only use micro-trains since they have the couplers already on them?
You can also leave the flange and slide it on the joiner for a more permanent connection
I'm not sure how you could slide it on the joiner with track blocking both ends of the joiner. This clinic is intended to show how to fix a gap at a show where you would not have time to tear out the track and re-lay it. Perhaps I should have been more explicit in my description of this clinic. Thanks for your input.
I just got these magnets and installed a pair of them, works exactly as you see in the video. This is a real game changer, easy to install, cheap, and works great! Thanks so much for this video!😊
Thank you, you just solved one of my problems.
I've just been in touch with Dingo Servo Mounts (in the UK) about the viability of using their Signal adapter with two magnets separated by a suitable gap, glued to the adapter's surface and raising and lowering that through a hole in the baseboard, thus enabling or disabling uncoupling of Dapol Easi-shunts. I want to experiment with this idea, so I've just bought some magnets 20x3x2mm thick and 20x6x1.5mm thick from First4Magnets to experiment. Have you or anyone else you know tried this?
Although I am aware of several magnetic uncoupling systems on the market, I have never purchased one because I always search for the cheapest way to do everything. I believe that I am the only member of my model railroad club who uses magnetic uncoupling.
Replace the flex.....use it somewhere else......fix it properly
Well done, thankyou!!!!
I would replace track gap too big
It's not hard to replace it, but replacing track can waste an entire piece of perfectly good track
That’s an outstanding video I’m not using those couplings but I love the approach and that road is spectacular. I spent ages making one section of my road look just right and it finally came up well. Great vid.
Thanks helped me out a bit. Just would like to see how you patch up the hole and ballast the turnout.
Very cool. Looks great and ready for fall camping. Thanks for sharing.
O figured you can mold with it. Thank you❤
Glad I could help. Remember, joint compound will dry very hard; however, the thicker it is applied, the longer drying takes. The more time you give to drying, the better.
Always interesting to see a another way to do things.
Thankyou for sharing this video, great job.
A great primer on layout design!
Very interesting technique! Enjoyed this tutorial and took notes.
Great tip! Well done sir, took a few notes.
I have watched literally over one thousand videos relating to model railroad scenery, construction, etc but your videos are the first I have seen that use chalk powders as 'paint' itself. Impressed, took notes! Well done sir! Understand these are older videos but you convey the tutorial very well! Edit - One of the finest 58 minutes I have watched, took copious notes!
An interesting technique using powders to 'paint' the shingles. Well done!
You can also use chalk to color wood laser kits without getting the wood wet and warped.
Very interesting technique! Looks great, subbed.
Why 18 mins long. I ran out of data!
If you have any specific questions, please ask them here. I thought I covered the subject, but welcome outside opinions.
Great video, thank you Bill!
I just started model railroading scenery and your tutorial answered several of my questions, especially about a tree base. Thank you. Great work on your tree! 👍😊
I'm glad I could help. There are many good tree making tutorials on UA-cam. Check my channel to learn how to make your own armatures. There are also other materials that can be used as foliage that make better looking trees. Woodland Scenics' Realistic Tree Kit is a good way to start; however, there are better and cheaper ways to make trees if you have the time. My tutorial Making N Scale Trees is a very good one. I also have 2 tutorials on making fir trees. Once you learn the basics, you can begin to experiment using your own ideas.
Wow Great Video !! Thank You for Sharing