5 years ago I uploaded a video on magnetic uncoupling. It has been viewed over 7000 times. I'm uploading this new video from my new layout with some extra tips on magnetic uncoupling.
I have seen several people on UA-cam whine about the magnets "never being in the right place". Not a single one of them ever mentioned "Shunting" or moving the cars to the final spot on the rail after uncoupling. This video should be required viewing for all those with Magnetic Uncoupler Syndrome. Very well done, THANK YOU.
I appreciate the kind words. I've made a lot of mistakes learning about model railroading. When I finally get something right, I want others to know about it.
I just got these magnets and installed a pair of them, works exactly as you see in the video. This is a real game changer, easy to install, cheap, and works great! Thanks so much for this video!😊
That’s an outstanding video I’m not using those couplings but I love the approach and that road is spectacular. I spent ages making one section of my road look just right and it finally came up well. Great vid.
This clinic shows the results of my own experimentation with powerful rare earth magnets. I have never used the Kadee system or others. None of the members of my club use magnetic uncoupling. Neither have I seen it used at any of the layout tours I have attended over the last 15 years. I used it first in a covered coffee table layout where I could not use sticks for manual uncoupling. This system works so well I don't understand why its use is not more common in the Rocky Mountain region. It wouldn't hurt to view other clinics on UA-cam about Kadee uncoupling systems. Still, once you find something that works every time, you should stick with it. You are correct in that I use Osborn Model Kits for yard markers, crossbucks, hays bumpers, telephone poles, etc. I always use Micro-Trains couplers as I find that they work best for me.
Excellent video. Thanks. I haven't used magnetic de-couplers before. How does this differ from the Magnetic Uncoupler Track pieces I've seen offered? Are the Osborn Model Kits 3053 N Yard Limit Signs the ones you were referring to? Do you only use micro-trains since they have the couplers already on them?
Does the track where one is shunting cars with couplers open have to be straight? My N Scale magnetic uncoupler has a total six, with 3 magnets under each rail. However the diameter of my magnets is only .315 of an inch and yours are .375 or 3/8 of an inch.
Only the uncoupling placement needs to be straight to successfully uncouple; however, picking up cars on a curve may present difficulties since the couplers may not line up for successful coupling. As far as the size of the magnets, I have used round magnets .125 inches in diameter without problems, though I did use them 2 each at 4 corners. See my earlier video on "Magnetic Uncouplers".
I've just been in touch with Dingo Servo Mounts (in the UK) about the viability of using their Signal adapter with two magnets separated by a suitable gap, glued to the adapter's surface and raising and lowering that through a hole in the baseboard, thus enabling or disabling uncoupling of Dapol Easi-shunts. I want to experiment with this idea, so I've just bought some magnets 20x3x2mm thick and 20x6x1.5mm thick from First4Magnets to experiment. Have you or anyone else you know tried this?
Although I am aware of several magnetic uncoupling systems on the market, I have never purchased one because I always search for the cheapest way to do everything. I believe that I am the only member of my model railroad club who uses magnetic uncoupling.
I have never used this system with either Kato Unitrack or Bachmann EZ Track. I only use Peco or Atlas flex track. A quick search of the internet reveals that Kato# 20032 is a 2.5" section of straight N scale track with a magnet situated between the rails. It is for sale on Amazon for $5.98. I would test that first. Good luck.
If one wants to shunt car(s) , you will have to have level and perfect track. I will have to relocate my uncouplers, which are under the track, to the exact spot where I need to spot the car(s).
A level roadbed is paramount for uncoupling if you want your rolling stock to remain where you shunt it. If you have rail joiners in this track, use a rail gauge to insure that the tracks meet exactly.
Any type of ferrous wheels will react to the magnets causing unwanted jerking. I have not seen it, but I'm positive that magnetic wheels would be unworkable. You will notice that the wheels on the cars in my clinic are plastic. Brass wheels will also work well.
@@williamcasper6215 Thank you . I got one locomotive Atlas and has magnetic wheels, I sent to Atlas to replace it and they don't understand must be non magnetic. I got 24 locomotives different brands even Atlas and no one has magnetic wheels .
I didn't realize that you were talking about locomotive wheels since there were no locomotives used in my clinic. I had magnetic wheels on my Lionel locomotive in 1949 which helped it on grades, but, nowadays, they have rubber traction bands on one set of the drive wheels to help with grades.
I have seen several people on UA-cam whine about the magnets "never being in the right place". Not a single one of them ever mentioned "Shunting" or moving the cars to the final spot on the rail after uncoupling. This video should be required viewing for all those with Magnetic Uncoupler Syndrome. Very well done, THANK YOU.
I appreciate the kind words. I've made a lot of mistakes learning about model railroading. When I finally get something right, I want others to know about it.
I just got these magnets and installed a pair of them, works exactly as you see in the video. This is a real game changer, easy to install, cheap, and works great! Thanks so much for this video!😊
That’s an outstanding video I’m not using those couplings but I love the approach and that road is spectacular. I spent ages making one section of my road look just right and it finally came up well. Great vid.
This clinic shows the results of my own experimentation with powerful rare earth magnets. I have never used the Kadee system or others. None of the members of my club use magnetic uncoupling. Neither have I seen it used at any of the layout tours I have attended over the last 15 years. I used it first in a covered coffee table layout where I could not use sticks for manual uncoupling. This system works so well I don't understand why its use is not more common in the Rocky Mountain region. It wouldn't hurt to view other clinics on UA-cam about Kadee uncoupling systems. Still, once you find something that works every time, you should stick with it.
You are correct in that I use Osborn Model Kits for yard markers, crossbucks, hays bumpers, telephone poles, etc. I always use Micro-Trains couplers as I find that they work best for me.
Excellent video. Thanks. I haven't used magnetic de-couplers before. How does this differ from the Magnetic Uncoupler Track pieces I've seen offered? Are the Osborn Model Kits 3053 N Yard Limit Signs the ones you were referring to? Do you only use micro-trains since they have the couplers already on them?
Thanks for sharing this :)
Well done, thankyou!!!!
Does the track where one is shunting cars with couplers open have to be straight? My N Scale magnetic uncoupler has a total six, with 3 magnets under each rail. However the diameter of my magnets is only .315 of an inch and yours are .375 or 3/8 of an inch.
Only the uncoupling placement needs to be straight to successfully uncouple; however, picking up cars on a curve may present difficulties since the couplers may not line up for successful coupling. As far as the size of the magnets, I have used round magnets .125 inches in diameter without problems, though I did use them 2 each at 4 corners. See my earlier video on "Magnetic Uncouplers".
I've just been in touch with Dingo Servo Mounts (in the UK) about the viability of using their Signal adapter with two magnets separated by a suitable gap, glued to the adapter's surface and raising and lowering that through a hole in the baseboard, thus enabling or disabling uncoupling of Dapol Easi-shunts. I want to experiment with this idea, so I've just bought some magnets 20x3x2mm thick and 20x6x1.5mm thick from First4Magnets to experiment. Have you or anyone else you know tried this?
Although I am aware of several magnetic uncoupling systems on the market, I have never purchased one because I always search for the cheapest way to do everything. I believe that I am the only member of my model railroad club who uses magnetic uncoupling.
Hello can these magnets be used on a Kato track?
I have never used this system with either Kato Unitrack or Bachmann EZ Track. I only use Peco or Atlas flex track. A quick search of the internet reveals that Kato# 20032 is a 2.5" section of straight N scale track with a magnet situated between the rails. It is for sale on Amazon for $5.98. I would test that first. Good luck.
If one wants to shunt car(s) , you will have to have level and perfect track. I will have to relocate my uncouplers, which are under the track, to the exact spot where I need to spot the car(s).
A level roadbed is paramount for uncoupling if you want your rolling stock to remain where you shunt it. If you have rail joiners in this track, use a rail gauge to insure that the tracks meet exactly.
What if a locomotive has magnetic wheels ?
Any type of ferrous wheels will react to the magnets causing unwanted jerking. I have not seen it, but I'm positive that magnetic wheels would be unworkable. You will notice that the wheels on the cars in my clinic are plastic. Brass wheels will also work well.
@@williamcasper6215 Thank you . I got one locomotive Atlas and has magnetic wheels, I sent to Atlas to replace it and they don't understand must be non magnetic. I got 24 locomotives different brands even Atlas and no one has magnetic wheels .
I didn't realize that you were talking about locomotive wheels since there were no locomotives used in my clinic. I had magnetic wheels on my Lionel locomotive in 1949 which helped it on grades, but, nowadays, they have rubber traction bands on one set of the drive wheels to help with grades.