I've only just seen this, two years after you posted: it is a very useful tip. If I had seen it even a month ago, it would have saved me from replacing a whole track section! 😀 Thanks for posting it. It will almost certainly be useful to me in the future.
I have more useful tips in my other video clinics. Click on the picture next to my name to see them, then choose one you think might be useful to you now.
Super. I've done this since I was a kid. Even though I had short pieces of track available, sometimes I just Thermite welded a piece of rail where one was needed. I add a few ties, maybe a sign or some details, and it gives the track character, and after fifty years, some of my track has a lot of character. I've even seen real railroads do this. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
this is one of the better answers (help) I have seen on UA-cam! I have done similar by cutting a piece and actually putting it in like 3 pieces of track!
I'm not sure how you could slide it on the joiner with track blocking both ends of the joiner. This clinic is intended to show how to fix a gap at a show where you would not have time to tear out the track and re-lay it. Perhaps I should have been more explicit in my description of this clinic. Thanks for your input.
To those who say, replace the track with a correct length section, I have a rather large gap that has mysteriously appeared at a double slip in amongst other points at a station throat. To lift the track and replace with a short length would definitely not be practical here. Filling the gap as shown will be ideal. So it’s horses for courses:-)
I just cut out small section. Then when you get a track kit it comes with multiple sizes. Down to about 1in. Cut enough out to place a smaller precut piece.
My thanks to you and Michael for reminding me about sectional track. Atlas sells sections as small as 3/8". They are sold separately from track kits and can, indeed, be used to replace damaged tracks on a straight away. Still, the most likely place to have an oversized gap at a joint is on a curve, so keep this idea in your playbook. It is tedious, but far less invasive than tearing out and replacing even a small section of track. I have found it useful at exhibitions when my track has contracted during cold weather in my garage.
One of the cardinal rules of model railroading is: "Never throw away anything!" Simply take the requisite number of ties from your junk box, remove the plastic nubs that originally held the rails in place, then slide the tie(s) under the rails to replace the missing ties. You may spill some CA (super) glue over them, or simply ballast them in place.
Why did it happen in the first place. I would remove about 3" of track and replace that instead. Those little pieces are troublesome. I see nails in the ties--not a good way to lay down track. Glue does a better job and looks far better.
The nails in the ties will be removed after ballasting. I don't use glue because it makes replacing turnouts and track much easier if ballast is the only thing holding both track and roadbed in place. Working with flex track in and around tunnels and bridges or between hills offers many opportunities for error. This is a quick alternative that can be used when you are exhibiting your layout at a show and are pressed for time. My clinics are designed for the neophyte. I am very pleased that experienced modelers like you are viewing my them.
Been in this hobby for over 50 years and have been a member of several clubs besides having helped with many roads. Only an idiot would have a gap this big...
I have a clinic on building a complete layout from start to finish where correct track laying procedure is demonstrated. As you can see you don't know everything, so why don't you go back under your bridge and stew in your own vitriol? I hate this "social media" nonsense. I don't care what sophomoric know-it-alls like you think of my clinics!
@@williamcasper6215 I never said that I know it all but all I said was that that video was bad. And no I don't think that I will crawl back under the bridge I live under at all. I will continue to criticise bad videos like the one that started this conversation. All one has to do is to have a car to run over each splice before gluing the track down... Very simple and I'm ashamed that you didn't tell people that.
You never said "that the video was bad"--you said "only an IDIOT would have a gap this big". You are a troll and a moron. This is a video on one way to deal with a gap NOT a track laying video. NOW do you UNDERSTAND! Because I cannot explain it any better than that. I am done with you!
I've only just seen this, two years after you posted: it is a very useful tip. If I had seen it even a month ago, it would have saved me from replacing a whole track section! 😀
Thanks for posting it. It will almost certainly be useful to me in the future.
I have more useful tips in my other video clinics. Click on the picture next to my name to see them, then choose one you think might be useful to you now.
@@williamcasper6215 Thanks, William. 👍
Always interesting to see a another way to do things.
Super. I've done this since I was a kid. Even though I had short pieces of track available, sometimes I just Thermite welded a piece of rail where one was needed. I add a few ties, maybe a sign or some details, and it gives the track character, and after fifty years, some of my track has a lot of character. I've even seen real railroads do this. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
I'm glad to know I'm not the only one. This is generally a quick fix; however, it does last if you do it right.
this is one of the better answers (help) I have seen on UA-cam! I have done similar by cutting a piece and actually putting it in like 3 pieces of track!
Thank you, you just solved one of my problems.
excellent tip, just started a 4x8 layout with flex and this happened...worked like a charm..thanks!..
Always glad to help. Check out my other video clinics by clicking on my picture above.
Replace the flex.....use it somewhere else......fix it properly
You can also leave the flange and slide it on the joiner for a more permanent connection
I'm not sure how you could slide it on the joiner with track blocking both ends of the joiner. This clinic is intended to show how to fix a gap at a show where you would not have time to tear out the track and re-lay it. Perhaps I should have been more explicit in my description of this clinic. Thanks for your input.
To those who say, replace the track with a correct length section, I have a rather large gap that has mysteriously appeared at a double slip in amongst other points at a station throat. To lift the track and replace with a short length would definitely not be practical here. Filling the gap as shown will be ideal. So it’s horses for courses:-)
I'm glad you found this tip useful. If you're careful, this fix will last for years as attested to by other commenters below.
I just cut out small section. Then when you get a track kit it comes with multiple sizes. Down to about 1in. Cut enough out to place a smaller precut piece.
My thanks to you and Michael for reminding me about sectional track. Atlas sells sections as small as 3/8". They are sold separately from track kits and can, indeed, be used to replace damaged tracks on a straight away. Still, the most likely place to have an oversized gap at a joint is on a curve, so keep this idea in your playbook. It is tedious, but far less invasive than tearing out and replacing even a small section of track. I have found it useful at exhibitions when my track has contracted during cold weather in my garage.
Great skill builder. Very practical thing to know.
Thanks. Pats on the back are greatly appreciated.
Ok, but what about the huge gap under the rails due to the removal of ties? How do you replace the ties?
One of the cardinal rules of model railroading is: "Never throw away anything!" Simply take the requisite number of ties from your junk box, remove the plastic nubs that originally held the rails in place, then slide the tie(s) under the rails to replace the missing ties. You may spill some CA (super) glue over them, or simply ballast them in place.
Why did it happen in the first place. I would remove about 3" of track and replace that instead. Those little pieces are troublesome.
I see nails in the ties--not a good way to lay down track. Glue does a better job and looks far better.
The nails in the ties will be removed after ballasting. I don't use glue because it makes replacing turnouts and track much easier if ballast is the only thing holding both track and roadbed in place. Working with flex track in and around tunnels and bridges or between hills offers many opportunities for error. This is a quick alternative that can be used when you are exhibiting your layout at a show and are pressed for time. My clinics are designed for the neophyte. I am very pleased that experienced modelers like you are viewing my them.
Been in this hobby for over 50 years and have been a member of several clubs besides having helped with many roads. Only an idiot would have a gap this big...
People who are new to the hobby do not appreciate your crass statement. It is unfair to them and unworthy of you.
@@williamcasper6215 Just your opinion.....Instead, why not teach them that this should never happen on a good road???
I have a clinic on building a complete layout from start to finish where correct track laying procedure is demonstrated. As you can see you don't know everything, so why don't you go back under your bridge and stew in your own vitriol? I hate this "social media" nonsense. I don't care what sophomoric know-it-alls like you think of my clinics!
@@williamcasper6215 I never said that I know it all but all I said was that that video was bad. And no I don't think that I will crawl back under the bridge I live under at all. I will continue to criticise bad videos like the one that started this conversation. All one has to do is to have a car to run over each splice before gluing the track down... Very simple and I'm ashamed that you didn't tell people that.
You never said "that the video was bad"--you said "only an IDIOT would have a gap this big". You are a troll and a moron. This is a video on one way to deal with a gap NOT a track laying video. NOW do you UNDERSTAND! Because I cannot explain it any better than that. I am done with you!
I would replace track gap too big
It's not hard to replace it, but replacing track can waste an entire piece of perfectly good track