I glad I could help. My clinic on covering the hole is titled "Masking Peco's PL-10 Switch Motor". Right click on my picture at the lower left of the video and see all of my clinics. You ballast the remaining area of the turnout the same way as the rest of the track being careful to use minimum amounts of ballast and glue between the rails. Constantly activate the turnout to keep the glue from attaching to the points and ensure that the throw rod that moves the points has a clear path. I hope this helps.
I want to thank you for this video. I was starting to stress on using foam for my 12' by 6' and how I was going to mount a switch motor. The PL 10 is the trick since it mounts to the track, not the base board... will any manual throw work with the peco switches and motor? thanks again Bill!
Remember that the Peco turnout has a spring that forces the points to the opposite rail. Devices like the Caboose manual throw would interfere with the spring action and eventually cause damage. Caboose does make a ground throw for Peco switches (Walthers# 97-115) but I wouldn't trust it. If you are dead set on throwing the switch manually, use your finger or uncoupling stick. You might view my videos Masking Peco's PL-10 Switch Motor as well as How To #25 Wiring Your Layout Part I - Turnout Switches.
This is where Kato Unitrack is light years ahead of Peco. Unitrack does this right out of the box. Just a shame it has that horrible toy track bed. I use peco but just operate the turnouts manually as i dont have a degree in electronics.
Kato Unitrack like Bachmann EZ Track is intended to be used on carpet. I have built layouts in both N and HO scales with this type of track and was dissatisfied. Besides the unrealistic roadbed, track design is limited by available track radii. For my money, flex track is the only way to go. I use Peco turnouts because of the spring which holds the points against the rails so I use Peco switch motors to operate them. Reaching across your layout to operate switches manually endangers buildings and scenery as well as causing accidental derailments. In the end, every model railroader should build his layout the way that suits him best. Thanks for your input.
Thanks helped me out a bit. Just would like to see how you patch up the hole and ballast the turnout.
I glad I could help. My clinic on covering the hole is titled "Masking Peco's PL-10 Switch Motor". Right click on my picture at the lower left of the video and see all of my clinics. You ballast the remaining area of the turnout the same way as the rest of the track being careful to use minimum amounts of ballast and glue between the rails. Constantly activate the turnout to keep the glue from attaching to the points and ensure that the throw rod that moves the points has a clear path. I hope this helps.
Great video, thank you Bill!
Thank you for your skill and tutorial
I want to thank you for this video. I was starting to stress on using foam for my 12' by 6' and how I was going to mount a switch motor. The PL 10 is the trick since it mounts to the track, not the base board... will any manual throw work with the peco switches and motor? thanks again Bill!
Remember that the Peco turnout has a spring that forces the points to the opposite rail. Devices like the Caboose manual throw would interfere with the spring action and eventually cause damage. Caboose does make a ground throw for Peco switches (Walthers# 97-115) but I wouldn't trust it. If you are dead set on throwing the switch manually, use your finger or uncoupling stick. You might view my videos Masking Peco's PL-10 Switch Motor as well as How To #25 Wiring Your Layout Part I - Turnout Switches.
This is where Kato Unitrack is light years ahead of Peco. Unitrack does this right out of the box. Just a shame it has that horrible toy track bed. I use peco but just operate the turnouts manually as i dont have a degree in electronics.
Kato Unitrack like Bachmann EZ Track is intended to be used on carpet. I have built layouts in both N and HO scales with this type of track and was dissatisfied. Besides the unrealistic roadbed, track design is limited by available track radii. For my money, flex track is the only way to go. I use Peco turnouts because of the spring which holds the points against the rails so I use Peco switch motors to operate them. Reaching across your layout to operate switches manually endangers buildings and scenery as well as causing accidental derailments. In the end, every model railroader should build his layout the way that suits him best. Thanks for your input.
Why 18 mins long. I ran out of data!
If you have any specific questions, please ask them here. I thought I covered the subject, but welcome outside opinions.