Yeah I guess they assumed you already know about the adjuster. There’s just a little star wheel at the bottom of the internals of the drum with a little gear, if you spin the gear one way it pushes the shoes out, if you push it the other it brings the shoes in.
Definitely adding that sliding caliper to my tools needed list. I'm working on getting my brake and lamp adjuster licenses so tips and tools like these are invaluable!
With nearly 40 years in the business I don't believe I've ever seen some so stupid in my life, put your drum on adjust your store adjuster then go back into the car and step down on the brake pedal this will set the brakes and now you will see that you have to adjust them even further to where they're just touching and after A thousand Miles you should always go back pull your drum off clean up everything with brake cleaner and readjust and you're good to go.
This is the best way of adjusting. Wish I had learned this years ago. Adjusting the self adjuster by feel for drag on the shoes against the drum is still guessing. Measuring ensures both wheels are adjusted the same. Is this overkill. Maybe, but only takes 60 seconds to measure each. Thank you!
Wow! I wish I've watch ur video first, ur way seems very logical than the one i saw and follow, now i will re work my drum brake and follow this! Thanks u sir!
Is setting up the sliding caliper til its 1/4 away before touching the brake shoes , is that good enough ? Wont bleeding the brake be automatically setting the brake?
this could be a very stupid question but i really have no idea how these works... So once you finish doing everything and check that there is a little drag on the wheel which is good. you tight the tire up go for a drive, jack the car up and check the tire again, should the drag disappear or should you have the same drag as when you finished the job?
I have a sneaking suspicion that my drums may be a little sloppy and are causing my brakes to be spongy. They were spongy when I purchased the vehicle but there’s still a chance it’s the brakes and not the master cylinder. I bled the brakes including the master so there’s all new fluid. My brake light has been staying on which is either a pressure differential or it could also be because my new ebrake has a different looking switch on it, even while the connector still fits. Before I reassemble I should see if using the old switch fixes my brake light.
I mess it up bog time when doing drum brakes and my steering wheel locked up and brake pedal is hard to push so tomorrow having a mechanic come over to check it hopefully they can fix it
Know this post is 5 years old but couldn't help but chime in. I have that brake tool. Its a good guide for a rough measurement but if you use it as you specified its too tight. Brakes should not drag at all . Instead use the tool and then add 1mm to each side free play if you will. Another words you can eye ball a mm of daylight on each side between the fork and the shoe. . As the pads heat up they expand and then causes more drag and excessive heat. Also you will lose a minute amount of gas mileage with the brakes dragging. Hope this helps.
Do you recommend grease on the self adjuster threads? I've always greased, but am rethinking this. My thought is grease may cause the adjusters to stick and not move freely. Any thoughts out there? When I did rear brake shoes on my 90 e250 the self adjusters were clean and dry and moved without effort. Now that I have lubricated I am concerned they may not self adjust due to the grease being sticky.
I personally don't grease the threads because I would think the grease would collect dust and get sticky like you said and I have never seen that recommended by any manufacturers, but a light coat of grease likely won't cause any problems.
in the 1996 rav4 manual, they call for high temp grease on both sides of the adjuster screw and both parts that touch the front and the rear shoe to the adjuster.
@@voltixD I leave virtually no drag, I just like to hear the shoes barely touching the inside of the drum. Remember that the clearance will decrease as the shoes expand from heat. Pumping the brake pedal a few times after making adjustments (with the drum on of course) to re center the shoes helps a lot too.
That's true, but since that truck is RWD/AWD, not all of that drag is from the brakes, much of it is from the drivetrain. Even in neutral with no brake drag, the transmission, driveshaft, axles, etc will still drag somewhat.
Thanks for the video. I changed my brake shoes yesterday. Now I can hear a grinding noise when driving. The shoes seem to be slightly touching the drum. I guess it will take some time until the shoes wear to exactly fit so that the noise goes away.
I’ve adjusted the shoes to get the same amount of drag, bled the hoses but peddal is still spongy, needs pumping twice so brake feels like it’s working right Any suggestions?
In 50 years I've never seen a brake system that can only be adjusted with the drum off around the back there's a little hole you can adjust it through I have seen brakes with no adjustment
@@NathanaelNaused Yup. Or the access hole is in such a horrible place it's almost impossible to get to and it just ends up being easier to take the drum off every time.
At the least you should clean disks, and drums with brake parts cleaner. A lot of the time they have an oil coating on them to prevent rusting while they sit on a shelf waiting to be sold.
U know that without the DIY or student or person that's learning like me won't be able to understand this drag talk. Person has to be there to get the feel and understand if the teacher is there to actually demonstrate it. Other than that it's a guessing game of meaning and understanding.
Nice video but the first thing you should do when unboxing a new drum is stick it on the lathe as 99% of drums out of a box are not round. Then you clean it then follow the steps your video shows
Not a great video. There are three aspects to setting up drums 1. the shoes need to be centred so both are the same and contact will be equal 2. Shoes need to be square to the drum ie parallel to brake surface 3 Shoes need correct clearance Drum brake setups can vary significantly. Some do not have adjusters
This is no way to adjust breaks first they must be centralised by adjusting them up and pressing the brake pedal and then backed off until they run free hopefully three clicks
@@voltixD A spring hooks over the spokes of the star adjuster thing, and it holds it from turning, When you turn the spokes with a screwdriver to tighten or loosen the brakes, it clicks.
Please tell me why you would have to remove the drum each time you didn't adjustment this makes absolutely no sense put your freaking drum on and adjust your star adjuster, once you have the light drag go inside the vehicle with the drum on and step down on the brake pedal come back to the break you're adjusting and you will notice that the brakes have seeded and now you have to adjust them even further and that's how you adjust brake drums, too many dysfunctional videos on UA-cam man. Also you don't clean it with soap and water because that doesn't work you need to clean them with brake cleaner and a rag that's what removes all of the excess oil from the machinery process. SOAP AND WATER, HOW'S THE CRACK IN YOUR TOWN
About to do a brake job my 02 Civic. When you say seeded, does that mean the brakes stopped dragging or started dragging more. Ultimately how much drag should be there if any after the test is complete?
@@voltixD when you press the brake from inside the cabin the brake shoes will seat itself perfectly centered resulting in an even finer free spin so might need a few more clicks to get it at almost touching to avoid any delay when hitting the brakes.
Nice tool indeed ... now if you didnt have that tool... l would put the drum on. Put on the tire. I would spread the shoes till they touch and back off a bit.. with the tires in the air id rotate them and look for 2-3 turns maybe... what do you think?
Finally some that know what they’re doing Thank you.......
It's little tips like this that other UA-camrs forget to mention that can really screw up repairs for the newbie. Thank you
Brilliant! A vid about adjustments with no adjusting. Moving on
Yeah I guess they assumed you already know about the adjuster. There’s just a little star wheel at the bottom of the internals of the drum with a little gear, if you spin the gear one way it pushes the shoes out, if you push it the other it brings the shoes in.
If you don’t know how to adjust the brakes then don’t be messing around with them. He’s just showing us how to make the job easier.
Definitely adding that sliding caliper to my tools needed list. I'm working on getting my brake and lamp adjuster licenses so tips and tools like these are invaluable!
With nearly 40 years in the business I don't believe I've ever seen some so stupid in my life, put your drum on adjust your store adjuster then go back into the car and step down on the brake pedal this will set the brakes and now you will see that you have to adjust them even further to where they're just touching and after A thousand Miles you should always go back pull your drum off clean up everything with brake cleaner and readjust and you're good to go.
This is the best way of adjusting. Wish I had learned this years ago. Adjusting the self adjuster by feel for drag on the shoes against the drum is still guessing. Measuring ensures both wheels are adjusted the same. Is this overkill. Maybe, but only takes 60 seconds to measure each. Thank you!
I found that metal brake drum tool years ago. Good to see it on youtube.
How about showing how to ADJUST the brakes???
This is the best instruction for that sliding tool. Thank u for this video.
Wow! I wish I've watch ur video first, ur way seems very logical than the one i saw and follow, now i will re work my drum brake and follow this! Thanks u sir!
Superb Instruction ! by a Superb Instructor !"
Thank u Friend !"👍
Is setting up the sliding caliper til its 1/4 away before touching the brake shoes , is that good enough ? Wont bleeding the brake be automatically setting the brake?
this could be a very stupid question but i really have no idea how these works... So once you finish doing everything and check that there is a little drag on the wheel which is good. you tight the tire up go for a drive, jack the car up and check the tire again, should the drag disappear or should you have the same drag as when you finished the job?
one of the guys here ua-cam.com/video/A6Eu_p_MYWo/v-deo.html answered my question above :)
I have new 9333r drums do i have to machine them before i install them of can i rely on the specs right out of the box.
Thanks
Where do i find this sliding caliper tool ? I googled it , but doesn't look anywhere near yours.
Measure the inner diameter of the drum, reduce that measurement on the gauge by 1/64", and then adjust your shoes to that new measurement.
Seems like a reasonable method. 1/64 of an inch is about half the thickness of a credit card, so that should get you pretty close.
I have a sneaking suspicion that my drums may be a little sloppy and are causing my brakes to be spongy. They were spongy when I purchased the vehicle but there’s still a chance it’s the brakes and not the master cylinder. I bled the brakes including the master so there’s all new fluid. My brake light has been staying on which is either a pressure differential or it could also be because my new ebrake has a different looking switch on it, even while the connector still fits. Before I reassemble I should see if using the old switch fixes my brake light.
A very good explanation about how to use the brake shoe adjustment tool. Also very useful. thanks.
I mess it up bog time when doing drum brakes and my steering wheel locked up and brake pedal is hard to push so tomorrow having a mechanic come over to check it hopefully they can fix it
What about 4x4 dodge dokota both weel move toguether when you check so how you adjust 4x4 like that?
Please Share The Tool Info Or A Link To Where To Get It...
It's a Brake Drum Wear Gauge. Posting for those whom come along looking in the future.
Where's the beat with hammer section?
Can wheel cylinder get damage by brake shoes ?
Know this post is 5 years old but couldn't help but chime in. I have that brake tool. Its a good guide for a rough measurement but if you use it as you specified its too tight. Brakes should not drag at all . Instead use the tool and then add 1mm to each side free play if you will. Another words you can eye ball a mm of daylight on each side between the fork and the shoe. . As the pads heat up they expand and then causes more drag and excessive heat. Also you will lose a minute amount of gas mileage with the brakes dragging. Hope this helps.
Thanks for this video. Ill show it to my Supervisor after he told me I was adjusting the drums wrong, like in this video... Arghhh!!!
I use Rabestos disc brake pads and rotors on my 1970 Z/28.
Do you recommend grease on the self adjuster threads? I've always greased, but am rethinking this. My thought is grease may cause the adjusters to stick and not move freely. Any thoughts out there? When I did rear brake shoes on my 90 e250 the self adjusters were clean and dry and moved without effort. Now that I have lubricated I am concerned they may not self adjust due to the grease being sticky.
I personally don't grease the threads because I would think the grease would collect dust and get sticky like you said and I have never seen that recommended by any manufacturers, but a light coat of grease likely won't cause any problems.
in the 1996 rav4 manual, they call for high temp grease on both sides of the adjuster screw and both parts that touch the front and the rear shoe to the adjuster.
use Anti-seize on the threads and parts on the drum were there is metal contact, like were the shoes sit on the backplate and also touch at the top.
But you will get lower mpg if they drag that much.
I am about to do a brake job on my 20 year old car. How much drag do you leave?
@@voltixD I leave virtually no drag, I just like to hear the shoes barely touching the inside of the drum. Remember that the clearance will decrease as the shoes expand from heat. Pumping the brake pedal a few times after making adjustments (with the drum on of course) to re center the shoes helps a lot too.
That's true, but since that truck is RWD/AWD, not all of that drag is from the brakes, much of it is from the drivetrain. Even in neutral with no brake drag, the transmission, driveshaft, axles, etc will still drag somewhat.
@@voltixD As much drag as this video shows. Then when the shoe wears down, it will self adjust.
informative video, much appreciated👍
my rotors are Zinc Phosphate coated. they are sterile from any contamination.
Where can I buy that tool?
It's a Brake Drum Wear Gauge. Posting for those whom come along looking in the future.
Ordering that sliding caliper
That tool is cool!
According to Bob Is The Oil Guy, "The brakes should NOT be dragging. If it's stopping in one turn from brake drag, that's too tight."
Thanks for the video. I changed my brake shoes yesterday. Now I can hear a grinding noise when driving. The shoes seem to be slightly touching the drum. I guess it will take some time until the shoes wear to exactly fit so that the noise goes away.
I’ve adjusted the shoes to get the same amount of drag, bled the hoses but peddal is still spongy, needs pumping twice so brake feels like it’s working right
Any suggestions?
Make sure you bled them right and close the cap to create more pressure.
Outstanding!
In 50 years I've never seen a brake system that can only be adjusted with the drum off around the back there's a little hole you can adjust it through I have seen brakes with no adjustment
Guess you've never seen modern drum brakes with 'self' adjusters then.
Nathanael Naused yeah I have three main types of self adjuster I know of
@@Hipyon For whatever reason there are certain kinds of self adjusters that don't have an access hole.
@@NathanaelNaused Yup. Or the access hole is in such a horrible place it's almost impossible to get to and it just ends up being easier to take the drum off every time.
At the least you should clean disks, and drums with brake parts cleaner. A lot of the time they have an oil coating on them to prevent rusting while they sit on a shelf waiting to be sold.
I'm with Terek... where do we get the tool at compa....
Super!
Trek bicycle rear brake pad adjustment
Where's the part ajusting them.
Here is the link www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SQUJ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
U know that without the DIY or student or person that's learning like me won't be able to understand this drag talk. Person has to be there to get the feel and understand if the teacher is there to actually demonstrate it. Other than that it's a guessing game of meaning and understanding.
Thank you
He twice mention self adjuster why didn't he just let it do its work
Yes sir tool brother where, who , how, ....
Nice video but the first thing you should do when unboxing a new drum is stick it on the lathe as 99% of drums out of a box are not round. Then you clean it then follow the steps your video shows
Not a great video. There are three aspects to setting up drums
1. the shoes need to be centred so both are the same and contact will be equal
2. Shoes need to be square to the drum ie parallel to brake surface
3 Shoes need correct clearance
Drum brake setups can vary significantly. Some do not have adjusters
Used tool and drum go on will not
This is no way to adjust breaks first they must be centralised by adjusting them up and pressing the brake pedal and then backed off until they run free hopefully three clicks
What is three clicks?
@@voltixD A spring hooks over the spokes of the star adjuster thing, and it holds it from turning, When you turn the spokes with a screwdriver to tighten or loosen the brakes, it clicks.
nobody makes that tool
"This tool sure came in handy" but I'm not going to tell you what it's called. Smh
It's a caliper. Pretty sure he said it
You showed absolutely nothing about a self adjuster, what it looks like or even how to turn it or whatever. Poor video
Please tell me why you would have to remove the drum each time you didn't adjustment this makes absolutely no sense put your freaking drum on and adjust your star adjuster, once you have the light drag go inside the vehicle with the drum on and step down on the brake pedal come back to the break you're adjusting and you will notice that the brakes have seeded and now you have to adjust them even further and that's how you adjust brake drums, too many dysfunctional videos on UA-cam man. Also you don't clean it with soap and water because that doesn't work you need to clean them with brake cleaner and a rag that's what removes all of the excess oil from the machinery process. SOAP AND WATER, HOW'S THE CRACK IN YOUR TOWN
About to do a brake job my 02 Civic. When you say seeded, does that mean the brakes stopped dragging or started dragging more. Ultimately how much drag should be there if any after the test is complete?
@@voltixD when you press the brake from inside the cabin the brake shoes will seat itself perfectly centered resulting in an even finer free spin so might need a few more clicks to get it at almost touching to avoid any delay when hitting the brakes.
Thanks...do it yourself they say.. mumble mumble back to the truck
Nice tool indeed ... now if you didnt have that tool... l would put the drum on. Put on the tire. I would spread the shoes till they touch and back off a bit.. with the tires in the air id rotate them and look for 2-3 turns maybe... what do you think?