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@Rudy_24 I don't remember the exact thread pitch, but I do remember that they were SAE, not metric.

@se128ln4 have you checked your master cylinder for the brakes? It could be an issue with it not letting the fluid return to the reservoir. If it's not brakes, it could be your 4x4 partially engaging. I have had similar problems and the front hubs were the culprit. Hope this helps!

And what type of oil it takes and where

@@dandan1171 I don't have this ATV anymore, but it had one crankcase plug at the bottom of the motor. Since it is a 2 stroke engine, it doesn't have oil in the crankcase, so the plug is only there to drain out the engine if it's flooded.

Thanks, I wouldn't say it's anything to write home about 🤣

If you are looking at the flywheel keyway, it's not sheared. The key is offset for the ignition timing.

We did replace the seal, but I honestly can't remember if I replaced the bearing. What I do know is that I measured everything before I reassembled the engine so it was either good or I replaced it.

The bead is about an inch and a half. The sidewall is almost an inch thick. If you don't believe me, try mounting a set 🤣

Thanks, John!!

Any ideas

There has to be something off with the timing. Are you certain that you installed the key for the flywheel the right way? it is an offset kay, so that would mess with timing. I assume it has compression, but even if it had low compression, it should pop.

Thank you! There aren't many of us, but I can say without a doubt that we mechanics have more fun than gamers!

Could be a sticky butterfly on the throttle. I am guessing that by just tapping it, it is getting stuck partially open but is able to slam closed when you floor it. It could also be it's running a bit rich, but I would check the throttle first since that seems to be the most direct correlation. Hope this helps!

It's a 1993, I ported the heads, and it has a mild cam, but otherwise, it is a stock 7.5l.

Are you sure the clanking noise is valve train? The most I have ever heard was tapping, so unless your motor has jumped timing (very unlikely unless you disassembled it), it might be rod bearings.

@@greenhillgarage it ran alright before I messed with it. It did pop a pushrod out the other day before I tinkered with the adjustments, it ran fair after I put the rod in place

@@greenhillgarage it ran alright before I messed with it. It did pop a pushrod out the other day before I tinkered with the adjustments, it ran fair after I put the rod in place

@@tylersgoatinsurance7081 These little motors have very soft valve springs, so I can see how it lost a push rod. Check to be sure that the rod is perfectly straight or it will make a pretty bad sound since it won't stay in adjustment with a bent push rod

Thanks, man! You can get some gas tank sealant that will cover all the rust and prevent it from getting in the carb. If you want to knock some of the rust loose first, get a few handfuls of old nuts and bolts and throw them in the tank with a cup or two of gas and shake the tank. I have seen some guys strap the tank to a tractor wheel and drive it to let the loose bolts work. Thanks for subscribing!

Is it a new needle and seat? I have had a few get an oval pattern worn into the seat and needle. Also, these aren't meant to hold much over 3psi of fuel pressure. As long as it holds 3psi, it is good to go. You may need to install an in-line fuel pressure regulator if it is anything over 4psi.

@@greenhillgarage I didn’t get a new seat in kit just a new needle and jets which I didn’t use It ideal’s great once I unplugged fuel pump

Got issue also , the fuel p runs continuously when key is on ! It’s supposed to pump when motor turns over .

That's a tough one, I had an ATV that I did for a customer who had rebuilt their own engine but had no coolant flow. I found that they had left their coolant lines open during the rebuild, and a mouse had crawed into one of the lines to drink the sweet antifreeze and had died in the line. The customer couldn't see it, so they put everything together and had no flow. Aside from rodents, a rag or thermostat could be clogging the system. These engines don't flow a lot of coolant, so you might not be able to tell just by looking in the radiator. If you have a temp gun, you can see what the engine block temperature is. Anything under 200 degrees is normal. Another easy way to tell if you have flow is to touch the hose going to the radiator and see if it is hot. If it doesn't seem hot, but the engine is, then it's plugged. There is a bleed screw on the line coming to the engine from the radiator, unscrew this, and make sure coolant comes out. Let me know if any of these options work, and I can dig my motor out to find anything else that might be a problem. Mahalo, brother!

Definitely a do as I say not as I do moment here. Unfortunately, only 3% of my viewers are younger than 25. Not many people my age that I know who are interested in anything like what I do. Most of my friends like trucks and ATVs but never work on them and would rather play video games.

I see your point and yes most kids are not learning anything but playing video games and getting way over weight 😢😢😢

The automotive fuel pump overloaded the floats in the carb. Only use a factory style replacement pump for these!

The original fuel pump on these is a 12v pump, the previous owner swapped the original pump for an automotive "clicker" pump. They have too much pressure for a Kawasaki Mule float so it floods the carburetor. Definitely need to find a factory replacement pump instead of a automotive pump.

www.ebay.com/itm/125454591703?fits=Model%3AMule+3010%7CMake%3AKawasaki&hash=item1d35ad26d7:g:uJwAAOSwPA9k1ASZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8Fhqj%2BqowEPZLLy2%2FcWfSyI14UAA9YohQVxHlaewJ8B3wTQYkXyF1wo9q6WHhp6ZlroeRCNGvyU8aVlZMsQNBTr%2F8zUVo2iFo7ccAJydWFa2%2BXQniQm4rwDeFRkRuK68agzkLHAaLWA%2FM7HBtORG8NCHxMOxU0Gsx5YQ%2FEG9lHeUIDJ9wXYGxmT9Ry7hF9qEkERl51IQL%2B1LjgJzjbkeGjBVMnAQmzRt1b500tTSZqai6%2BIGS%2BsPCI7%2Bc6FHdV%2F6gmUwD%2B7Vja%2BFYIdgVsE6M7JimAFC4LmbBpyWbUyQtJG8qstkZQ7KUfHwP5so%2Bow1Jg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM3rKlj41j Here is the one I use.

​@greenhillgarage thank you, I'm ordering this and another one from your link right now

I ended up getting this one running with the quadrajet. It ran really good, but had low oil pressure so I have it on a stand waiting for a rebuild. I ended up scrapping the truck after getting all the good parts off it, and I am in the hunt for a Mustang or Bronco to build this engine for. Thanks for watching!

I got one later, but I was too impatient to wait for it!

😂 Honestly, I would take any motor that would fit! I was thinking how much power a snowmobile engine would have, but I don't think the Mule has a strong enough transmission.

It could have been a lot better! You can definitely tell that some aspects of this engine were built for cost reduction rather than durability.

I'm just outside of Montrose Colorado. I am pretty busy with college, but I can work you in if you're able to make it out here. What is your Mule's issue?

@@greenhillgarageMade an impulse buy thinking how much fun my little ones would have and I didnt look underneath now I regret it. 2003 Mule that leaks alot of oil and maybe gas. Cant drive it without smoking the whole neighborhood yet never smoked the day I went to test drive it. Looks like the motor or transmission might have the wrong cover on it because I can see a sprocket fully exposed. Muffler was cut open and rewelded another piece for some reason so I can imagine what other hack jobs were done to it. I dont know where to start and shops here are known to charge alot for not finding a fix. Unfortunately Im in Uvalde,TX….Yeah that place.

@martin2521 That's unfortunate! I've got a video coming up soon with my Mule. It also has a massive oil leak, but it was from a failed main bearing, cutting the oil seal. I have my eyes out for another engine or an engine swap. I don't know of many dealers or repair shops that charge a reasonable price for anything anymore. Uvalde is a ways from here, I felt so sick watching those police officers standing around waiting, but that's a whole nother story. Best of luck with the repair! If all else fails, you could take it to the spring auctions. Dead row is full of optimistic people. (Speaking from experience on this)

Thank you for the reply. How much should I expect to be able to recover from selling a 2003 mule 2wd that technically does start up and run?

@martin2521 The ATV market is down, but I think you should be able to get somewhere between $700 to $900. As a parts machine, I think $500 would be about right if the engine was completely shot, but if it still fires, it should give a parts buyer more confidence. It would be worth more if it was 4wd, but I can't say for certain in your area. I haven't sold any ATVs this fall, but the market is down over here.

That is the turn signal power divider if I remember correctly. One prong is left, and the other is right. Hope this helps!

Sadly, no. If I remember correctly they changed over in 1994, and the starters are different.

They have a version for the 7.3 idi just look up 7.3 idi high torque starter and it will come up