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Wishing you both all the best for 2025

Happy New Year!

I'm amazed at the incredible hardworking put into this project and very happy that those that can help have done so generously. Well done Seabird Team!

Happy new year. And thanks for all! 🎉

have a great new year xxx

I'm busy working my way through the earlier clips and when viewing those against current clips, the Seabird couple (and adhoc helpers) have pulled off one fringing amazing restoration project. It will be worth it once she is put back into the water. Cannot wait!

Looking at her lithe, sexy, and just drop dead gorgeous all-white beauty, I am thinking about what a pity it would be to put another colour on her lovely slippery hull! How about just leaving her in her virginal white? I wonder if anyone makes a colourless antifoul?

Most enjoyable watching. Thank you.

Did you try drilling holes in the very BOTTOM of the keel? This is an old video so you obviously found a solution to this problem but I would still like to hear what you finally did?

Happy New Year And Best Of Luck!

Dear Stuart and Maria: You asked at 19m30s in your video above. Remember propellor struts are rudely sand cast and are NOT AT ALL the same as each other as there is minimal machining afterward. Plus I showed a colleague your foam in place for the engine mounts and he has much more serious doubts. We both recommend some form of load distribution such as 6mm thick double angle or U plates over the entire length of the foam filled fiberglass beds as a minimum. Good luck with your plan. best regards lt

Happy New Year guys 🎉 Keep up the good work you are doing 🎉

Your doing great and your diligence and positive attitude will see you through. The engine will work itself out in due time. One thing about your channel I like is you both are real, not posturing drama queens. There is nothing forced about what you do. It makes you relatable. Thank you for letting us cone along on your journey. Blessings in the year to come.

Happy new year to you both. Great vlogs.

Why not put the shaft in place where it should be and lock it in place with pegs or whatever and then align the p bracket.

Felice año nuevo! Desde Uk

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Happy Holiday's 🎉

Thankyou for taking the time to share your journey with us. Time to drink a beer🍺, stand back, and look at what you have achived in 2024 🎉 Happy New Year to you both 🍻

Do you have a local machine shop? I can think of a couple of options: 1. Get a pair of nylon bushes made for the internal and external end of the stern tube . These would be fairly tight (0.1-0.2mm clearance) so that they hold the prop shaft exactly central. This would allow you to offer up the prop shaft against the P bracket and make adjustments. 2. Get a mock mild steel prop shaft machined, which is tight(ish) to the stern tube (0.1-0.2 clearance), this should then step down in diameter just before the P bracket, to allow the narrow end to pass through the P bracket. This would allow you to use this mocked up shaft to measure between the OD and the ID of the P bracket using feeler gauges or a micrometer to get the gap uniform at N, S, E, W positions between this dummy shaft and the P bracket. At present, with the shaft loose in the stern tube, I don't think you can do this precisely enough.

Happy new year guys and with the prop shaft, if you make up some wedges to insert alongside the shaft front and back to get it centred into the tube then adjust the P bracket to match I think you would get a better result, good luck and best wishes, lighthouse.

happy new year to you two too!!

hola, tienes que poner un buje de espaciador entre el eje y la bocina (caño que atraviesa el casco) y asi te tendra el eje alineado para luego alinear la pata de gallo externa y el motor, al final lo sacas

You can use rounds of tape or anything else that is easy to move around in order to support your shaft on the inner edge of the stern tube. In my case, a rubber bike grip did the trick. I had to have compensation to my P bracket so I made an aluminum shim plate the same size as half of the bracket. To give it the right thickness I refined it with a sandblaster, to have an almost zero thickness inside. good luck , and happy new year (those one your boat will splash !!!)

Get the engine in the boat and then align the mounts to the the prop shaft and mounting place

Hi how much time did you spent on the boat working? till now thanks

Guys you need to get a laser to calibrate the shaft to the engine you would be best geting a guy in to do it as the slits bet of you will get a vibration

💗 loved this year watching you guys, i absolutely admire how much energy you put in this project and i wish you all the best to finally get it on the water and enjoy some cruising life 💕

I have a little suggestion for Yamaha at this stage of your installation. Why don't they make their engine mounts adjustable so that it's easy to adjust the engine into correct alignment using just a socket and drive! It shouldn't be any more expensive either since it only takes a little engineering ability to build better mounts!

I have an idea that might be useful for you regarding your engine alignment. Why not consider using a universal joint between the engine and the shaft? That's what they do with cars so that they can have a little flexibility with mounting the engine! Because if you think about it, it's rather unlikely that the engine will be perfectly aligned with the car's drive shaft from the start so they fit a universal joint between the gearbox and the tail shaft. Stu probably already ķnows all about uñi joints but if he doesn't you can google it! But better talk to an expert to check this out first! By

As long as the shaft does not touch the stern tube and the gearbox shaft aligns with prop-shaft and the P bracket you will be fine. Tedious work but I'm absolutely sure that the Seabird team can achieve anything!

The engine needs to be aligned with the pro-shaft, unless another drive system that does not require alignment is being used. Any misalignment will cause exit bearing stress and possible leakage into the hull. Beautiful engine..

last Oct I had to repair the perkins engine on a guys yacht lucky for him he had me on board Perkins expert ! 😎

I’d suggest unfastening the strut, aligning the shaft through the stern tube and refastening the strut with a bedding of structural epoxy; fasteners hand tight until the epoxy cures. Then refair the strut. And keep in mind that final alignment of the engine should be done with the boat in the water for the hull may flex ever so slightly .. causing misalignment.

Best wishes for next year

remu the washers..senter the shaft in the hole with some rubber hose then use some thickend epoxy filler behind the bearingthingi and dont tighten the screws before the epoxy is dry. remou the hose tighent the bolts and then aligen the motor to the shaft and not the shaft to the motor..the motormounts ar fully adjustebul and the shaft is not...set the bearing in a peace of plastik if you dont want to epoxy it stuck to the boat

Happy new year 🎉, been with you from start of journey look forward to all episodes 😊come on someone somewhere help these guys out on fitting of engine 😊

Happy new year Guys, keep going , keep Flghting

Dear Stuart and Marina: 1st Please get Stew a pair of long pants so he stops freezing in your balmy 5 to 13C. 2nd The shaft must enter and leave the stern tube straight and even on all sides 3rd Wrap thin sheet metal strips around the shaft to make an interference and even fit at both ends of the stern tube (beer can material) 4th Align bronze prop strut (P-bracket) with the now rigidly mounted shaft by grinding away the fibreglass or bronze or add full size shims of fiberglass around the bronze washers about the prop strut. 5th when perfectly aligned leave the strips around the shaft until the engine is positioned. Engine: A - the metal brackets shown on the right side of the engine are not factory standard. Notable the forward one is inexpertly cut bar stock and not reinforces line the aft one. B - make new metal mounts to suit your existing ship engine beds and use solid metal of plastic shims to make up the differences. C - You need to build a drawing of the engine beds and the the shaft using the angles and horizontal and vertical distances using. D - Use this tool or similar (borrowed or purchased) to determine the slope angels from horizontal of the long shaft and the existing engine beds. Be sure to determine all slopes fore aft and athreatships. Sorry no pic but is is called a machinist combination square, center and level-protractor. Let me know if that helps and if you are stuck. cheers lt

Bedankt

Almost there. The P-bracket seems to be a little long, so it needs to sit a bit deeper in the hull. Maybe grind out the hole where it sits. Remember you also need to put some compound in there before tightening up. On the inside the P-bracket bolts already go through a block, right? Great video again. Horrible mistral. Must be driving you crazy. Love you guys!

I've done many of these. First step is to center the shaft in the tube. There are several ways to do this.....old cutlass bearings, careful shimming, whatever it takes to center it up. On both ends of the tube. Double check the shaft log fitting to make sure it is as close to perpendicular to the shaft as possible. Then, fit the strut onto the shaft and ensure there is clearance for adjustment. Prep the strut mounting area for epoxy adhesion. Make a thick epoxy paste. Use enough to get a good squeeze out from between the hull and strut. Wax everything, strut face, bolts, everything except the hull. Fit up bolts then gradually tighten the nuts (don't twist the bolts) until perfect alignment is achieved. Once cured, take it all back apart, dewax everything and install strut with the proper sealant. In essence, what you are doing is creating a custom surface which will ensure proper alignment, and very importantly....not place localized stress on the parts, which using washers does. Take your time getting it set up just right. It's really easy on this boat, as the hull is quite rigid. A small amount of silicone spray can aid in sliding the cutlass bearing onto the shaft and help prevent damage to the rubber. Good Luck, you've got this!!

Happy Christmas!!

You'll find solution for the alighnment, but that really seems to be complicated. See you soon❤

Thx for your entertainment while watching your videos. Didn’t suggest at the start what a great job, till yet, will be done😊. Pressing thumbs for the future and I hope you have a good healthy and successful new Year!!! Greetings from Germany

Danke!

You don't use washers(unless they are very large in od diameter to shim, you need shims. The small od washers will over time will wear into the fiberglass, loosening the bracket and cause vibration and all sorts of resulting damage Basically, support the shaft to the center of shaft log(fore and aft), move everything to the shaft

Easiest way to set engine bed without bring the engine in the boat, is to make an accurate model of the engine mounts along with centered mounting flange.

Nice

Have a very happy and constructive 2025. Hoping for the big splash with you!

oh wow, that foam is much harder than I thought it would be. I thought it was closer to the stuff used for insulation. That really should provide additional support. What do you call this stuff?