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They are not so bad to start! Lovely bike.

There are FOUR drain holes at back. Two you helpfully have shown, and two more - one each side immediately behind door opening, to drain when the car is parked facing downhill.

Great video, thanks. What are you using on the gaskets, do you just add it the casing or to the surface of the gasket as well, and how long does it stay workable?

, they come apart easy and go back the same the only frustrating thing can be lining up the push rods while fitting the cylinder head. Use FAG bearings and you won't have to touch the bottom end again, regular half interval oil changes and if your engine doesn't have an oil filter fitted it might pay to fit one but I think all 850 models came with the filter system fitted.

Thanks so much for this….We were lucky that the floor under the drivers side was flooded……will follow your advise.

With regard to the sleeve gear on the MK3 with the circlips on the sleeve gear they used longer bushes, 1.2" rather than the 0.88" bushes on the earlier models I upgrade to these and locate them with Loctite, I have had no issues to date, looking at the engine number, it looks like this engine gearbox is from a fairly late MK2A, so is a cross over model, so could have been fitted with the later sleeve gear from new, my MK2A has some MK3 features. Isn't the circlip off the main shaft for locating the clutch, it is listed in the parts book inn the clutch section rather than the gearbox section.

Whats your opinion about the one seal option on the main output bearing. My 70 Commando had the metal cover on one side so I ordered one from andover with the black one side seal cover. do you think it could starve the output shaft seal of oil or is there a good reason to use it. thanks good show.

Fascinating content. Roll on the assembly episode. Who would design a gearbox case with such an obvious point of failure? No drip tray under the Honda lol.

Hello again chris

That is absolutely terrible. Appalling work! When I built my T150, I was advised to supply the biggest oversize valve guides available, and my then chosen machine shop would machine them to size. That’s because there was no guarantee that all the holes for the guides would be all the same size. I am glad that you found the problem.

Hi Chris. Did you check the spark plugs to see if it was one cylinder in particular that had the problem? If a valve guide was allowing too much oil into the combustion chamber, you will get an idea of which cylinder is at fault. Rob vW

Good job mate

Stunning! Just Stunning.

I have one of these bike but in black . They are just awesome mine has a 5 peed box even better .😎👌

Utterly superb! Many thanks for producing this.

Absolutely brilliant video. Thank you so much!

Both versions of the Trident, a Commando and a Z1 - my dream collection. Top marks, 11/10.

I had similar problems with a vintage DelOrto carb, it was vapour blased and cleaned and the bike would start but it wouldn't produce power, all it wanted to do was stall when the clutch was let-out. It was a blocked air passageway, took me ages to finally dig that deep but once that was cleared she ran beautifully. The number of times you see people on UA-cam restoring a bike but give up on the carbs and buy replacements when it's pretty sure it's just blocked air passageways and relatively easy to fix. The Bike BTW is gorgeous.

I want one now 😊

I had this issue in the early eighties. It was smoking, so I stripped it down and had the bores honed, with new piston rings, valves and guides then took it to the IOM for Mike Hailwood's last TT, but it was still smoking. I stripped it down at the camp site (!) and found some sealant had got into an oilway form the cylinder head, which eventually forced the oil down the valve guides, just like yourself! But that wasn't the real reason. I remember going up on the mountain from Ramsey Square and not being able to see the bottom of the hill! I eventually took it to Clive Humphries, a Triumph specialist in Coventry for an assessment. His report was that out of the whole engine and gearbox, there were only two bearings still serviceable. So a complete rebuild, and no smoking whatsoever! In the end it was a design problem - with the engine being effectively one and a half Triumph 500s cobbled together, cooling was an issue, with the centre cylinder running hot. The solution from Triumph was to run the centre cylinder rich!!! In addition the exhaust clamps were a heat trap, so worn vales and guides was regular issue. The Trident, particularly the T160 was a fantastic bike when it ran, but there were so many issues because it was bodged together to try and compete with the Honda CB750. Swopping the gear change to the left was another such bodge, requiring the clutch to operate via a pushrod running the full width of the gearbox, with the pushrod being little more that a knitting needle, so the bike was constantly afflicted with a dragging clutch! Engineering wise, it wouldn't have actually taken much to make the engine water-cooled, with twin overhead cams. But that wasn't how the British Bike industry of the time did things!

"They all do that, sir." Have a friend who spent years, and many pounds, trying to sort his T150. It's still off the road.

My trident has the same problem, doesn't like to start when it's hot...it's a particular problem when I fill up with gas.

Whats the name of the second cafe please ?

You have an EXCELLENT sense of video production! Love that rear view by the lower frame! Great capture of the surroundings and the immediacy of the moment! Well done, Chris! Thank you!

That engine sounds wonderful. Wow I am impressed and really jealous!

The Matchless is a lovely looking bike, but it’s certainly making you work to get it 100%.

A Vincent twin with a polished engine will be a Rapide, Black Shadow has the Black engine, Black Lightning is a race bike, there were only about 3 dozen made and almost certainly none on the road. If you are having to have the choke full on to run there must be a major air leak or carb problem. I've given up with trying original carbs on my 11-50 Brough Superior and use a concentric, better to have it running nice than looking "correct".

It appears to be all talk, and no action

Thank you, Chris! I've always wanted to see behind a Matchless/AJS primary cover to see how the mag chain actually runs. Yes, my Pre War Triumph Speed Twin also has an extremely difficult to reach magneto platform bolt. Great stuff there. Really enjoy your videos!

which handlebar kit have you got, metalastic bushes, cup, rubber washer, distance pieces, hemisperical washers... or the rigid mounting kit with no metalastic washers? i ask because i tried fitting the rubber mounted one on my t160, and couldn't tighten it up, the bars just flopped around, i'm stuck now not sure what to do.

Outstanding series! The problems you encountered, and resolution are what made it so special. You would have easily qualified as a chapter in Pirsig's "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance". Gumption!

P.S. Soundtrack too of course👍🏼👍🏼

Some lovely pilot eye footage👍🏼

have you still got the helmet??

Be carefull with the inspection light. I.ve heard of 2 being stolen at bike meets. Really. My mate has glued his in. Heard they go for 200 to 300

Great to see it running & running well. Teething issues are par for the course but a bit of fettling & setting up, will get it 100%. I think Frank must have worked on almost every UK motorcycle magazine.lol.

Hi Chris Stunning looking bike i was surprised its foot change, only just noticed. Cheers Baz

Hi Chris, the little breather pipe should run into the primary chain case, well, it does on mine, there is a hole in the top of the chain case that the copper pipe fits into. Had my model X for 57 years now, the pipe has always gone into the chain case, hope this helps.

Hey Chris, this is a little off subject. I tried to find an email address for you but no luck. I have enjoyed watching your videos. I ran across an accessory tool for torque wrenches. One of your videos you made a remark on torquing cylinder head and jug bolts that aren't possible to get a torque wrench on. I thought of your video. I watched a guy use this in a video. It seemed to work pretty good on a Norton. Its called a Motion Pro 08-0380. Rght angle flat extension that doesn't require any math and limited vertical space to use. Just the thickness of your flat wrench. I just bought one. I haven't had an occasion to use it just yet, but I think it will be a handy addition to the tool box. Cheers, awesome video's, Jack

Welding tip cleaners are a good option to get those small holes

Hi Chris. You may be able to help with a very confusing problem i have with a T150v gearbox. all new. working fine for 300 miles. getting all 5 gears with no issues, then it started to jump out of 5th. finally you coudnt select 5th. with the outer cover off you can select all gears, cover back on cannot select 5th. Reindexed moving the quadrent both up and down a notch but then you cant select first or 5th respectivly. havent pulled the box to pieces yet but before i do i wonder if you have any advice. Thank You. Mark.

Try electric guitar strings for cleaning small drill holes in carbs.

Can you please list the books/manuals you used for this?

A great cruiser today!

Wonderful! Tell me, what tyres are you running it on Chris?

We learned to find a professional machine shop

35 yeara in the bike trade I really understand really understand what you are saying Engineering and getting it right first time is my bugbear when everything goes right we ignore its only the "failures" we remember nice job bw !

Despite the problems, I’d still love a T160V

Problems arise if everything went smoothly we would never learn anything, your perseverance has paid off gorgeous bike credit to you

It’s been a great series, watching you work through the unexpected issues that presented themselves. Top job. 👍