Відео

@@taiwanese002 hi, those are switching my high power AC chargers. using 12v DC to switch 230V AC

@@rm6857 temperature is around 45 deg Celsius and humidity might be around 60 percent

hi..just be careful. Chint as far as I saw only does have polarized DC MCBs. When going for a battery main breaker, you might have to go for a MCCB

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Thanks for the suggestion. What's your experience with the TOMZN DC Breaker? They seem to be the preferred option in my place and are cheap, but I don't really trust them. MCCBs are much more expensive. Should I just get a single pole MCCB for the battery or is it better to get a 2 pole one?

@@BlueSky-cy5nw Tomzn is polarized to. As battery main I would use a double pole. But you can use a single MCCB if you want to save a bit money

Mate. You see this to serious. In my opinion the truth is somewhere in the middle off all the debate. I only saw discoloration in the terminal area but I saw carbonated deposits only around the contact pin next to the terminal inside the device. True, there was no arc extinguishing problem. There had been 2 disconnects but non of it caused significant thermal issues as you also have noticed. And then there had still been the other 2 devices which failed months before this one. There was nothing to see on the outside and they went straight into the bin as I was pissed so much. So there is still a quality issue. I think that the problem comes from humidity and corrosion, but there is no way that water can be inside the terminal. And usually the warming up of the breakers in normal operation the humidity is removed anyways. As well i think that because according of the law of leverage, when you make two arms of a lever move twice the distance, the force on that lever is half. So the preassur on the contact will be weaker then on similarly constructed AC breaker. Every comment is a good comment and a new clue. 😉

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Okay. I will keep the comments on the video. I forgot about your prior breakers failing. It may very well be a combination of humidity moisture and poor quality design of breaker why the high failure rate. I look forward to comparing to the inside of the NOARK DC non-polarized breaker that is still on its way to me to do a tear down. I know at least one big difference that the NOARK breakers has, and that is a larger copper arc extinguishing chamber. It wIll be interesting to see what else is different inside of a NOARK.

@@Matthew_Australia if we knew exactly what is going one within such devices, companies would stand in line and pay as big money as quality ensurance or forensic experts 😂

I have something called a thermal grease which can be put on terminals to prevent corrosion and improve transition resistance. Do you think it is a good idea to use something like that on breaker terminals? I bought it for my transformer fuses to stop them from arcing there.

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Here is my understanding. The minimal tiniest amount of dielectric grease for breakers (and only the slightest amount on the wire). No other type of grease should be used. As the high temps (from resistance and electrical arc) will likely result in low viscosity of the grease that can create an internal short. Avoid using ferrule crimps for the wires going into a CLAMP terminal. Dielectric grease is not suitable for dusty environments, but is recommended to be used in corrosive (humid) environments. Ideally, dielectric grease and wire ferrule crimps should be avoided as they normally do more damage, BUT if the environment is humid or corrosive then dielectric grease will do more good. Hence why it is preferred to install the breakers inside of an actual weatherproof enclosure to avoid using dielectric grease. I stress again, do not use any other type of grease other than rated dielectric grease, and do not use the dielectric grease if in a dusty environment. Any connections that does have dielectric grease should be periodically checked every change of season (Winter/Summer) to inspect degradation, hot spots, dryness and cracking (of the grease itself). The dielectric grease will dry out and start to crack. Soon as the dielectric grease starts to dry out, it needs to be removed and then reapply the wire ends with fresh dielectric grease (the minimal amount possible).

@@Matthew_Australia Actually ferrules are just fine for clamp style terminals. Where they shouldn't be used are with screw terminals (such as electrical plugs) where you hook the wire around something. In fact, use of ferrules in clamp terminals avoids the single most common mistake with that type of terminal that causes overheating... pushing the wire into the terminal past its insulation and clamping onto insulation in addition to the copper wire. Ferrules are light-weight, they just corral the copper, so they are easily crushed by clamps and will generally hold better contact and reduce wire stress since stranded wire is universally used with this type of topology.

a 750w Ups can surely run a 250w load continuesly. i saw some people use ups as inverters

LFP cells don't care about any of the equalisation, absorption, etc Its just important to stay within the voltage limits. Of you want to avoid BMS cutout, then a voltage relay might be a good idea indeed

hi. sorry. i didn't have wifi on my inverters. i don't know. Did you ask you distributor?

​@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMoreI bought a used inverter. The previous owner did not reset it to factory settings. I'm looking for a way to solve a problem on social networks. Thanks for the answer!

For the tropics this is a tricky concept. Passivhaus works well in moderate climate where you can as well play with sun angles during winter, etc. The concept there is to recycle your waste heat, catch it and reuse it before it leaves the house. Here you would need to cool the interior always, and the fresh air you bring inside needs to be cooled as well. Good walls and sufficiently overlapping roofs to not let the sun burn into the windows should do most of the trick. You will need to generate your electricity for cooling and that will make you Passive. Such concepts are unknown in Thailand. You will have to bring in your ideas and hopefully find a contractor who can follow your concept.

Correct. If the readout if not accurate then it is meaningless. But how do you know how accurate your meter is? You would have to compare the readout with a calibrated device. Any meter can be perfectly accurate or not :)

It's just that 3 of 5 breakers failed within the last 3 months. On the others, I didn't see burn marks on the outside. Of course, I could be the worst talented guy who is not able to screw in a wire :) I will use lugs before I leave now. Let's just hope the other breakers survive my absence.

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Then it must have something to do with the way they "solved" the thermal trigger, cause the room for a propper solution don't exist anymore cause of the wide contact opening. Same as I mentioned before will solve this problem: a copper stripe which acts as a heatsink ; ) ...or installing a fan (as I do) which brings fresh air and air 'circoolation' into your cabinet, cause the rated ambient temperature for this brakers is with 40 degree quite low, especially for a between others sandwiched breaker as the one who failed.

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore As I mentioned somewhere, without magnets only crappy DC breakers can be constructed in this size (within reasonable price range). For bidirectional uses only fuses or bigger constructions can be reliable.

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore By the way, the incoming wire acts as a heat sink too, but due to the fact here in Thailand 6 square millimeter rated wires has actually only 4 sqm and instead a thickened (thermal) insulation, this can lead to problems as you have.

@@topeye4202 yeah

That depends on where your array, mount, equipment is located. If all is at one place, then you need to ground all components at the same main grounding bar which can go to one single rod. But if your array is somewhere in your garden and the rest is in the house, you need to ground the PV at the place and do not interconnect grounds as you will not be able to touch 2 different potentials during a surge.

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore actually, it is a four-floor building(8 apartments) , the array is on the roof and the inverter is in the ground floor apartments. one only electode for the whole building

@@AbuLeena yes. then ground all at the main grounding bar.

Yes sure, thanks. Please make photos and videos from before and after disassemble, from as many sides and details you can. I will then edit it to a masterpiece :))

Carefully only open one half. The two poles might be completely independent. So you can at least keep a 1-pole afterwards. You will just have to adjust the rivets and then you can use a strong glue to hold it together.

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore My video camera is capable of 4K and raw photos. I have a strong and stable tripod too. You can do what you want with the data and info. Though, I don't want my voice in the video you upload. You can mute my voice and add your own narration. I will not be talking much anyway, other than directly to you. I will try and conduct some basic tests with the MCB casing off one side to demonstrate tripping under load. I also have a thermal camera with 384x288 @ 12μm thermal sensor resolution and NETD 35mK that is rendered to a 1024×768 resolution. So, even if the optical video camera can not detect the arc clearly, the thermal video camera will be able to detect. I don't want credit or payment. I do this for you to share with others. You helped me many times, I return favour with a tear down for you.

Yeah. There was really not much visible different between this breaker and other Chines variants, either AC or DC, other then the contacts opening doble as far as what I have seen till now. I am thinking that maybe that need of more contact travel is decreasing the pressure on the contact arm when closed.

Yes. You can see that heat, plasma, arc was moving on that more or less steel guiding strip on the backside to the chamber, which is really just tiny. And the material choice inside seems to be very questionable.

Hi. The max. current that 40A breaker saw was 25A continuous over periods of 6hrs on a nice day. Usually I do over-rate breakers by 50%. But still. With continuous currents such devices will heat up during operation. If you are looking for DC fuses with holders, look for Solar PV fuses. Those are the DC rated ones. I will link you the fuse holder/fuses which I have ordered. Unfortunately I will only be able to install them in November, then there will be a follow up. Holder: th.aliexpress.com/item/1005006503836286.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.284e52ce4Cu8lb&gatewayAdapt=glo2tha Fuses: th.aliexpress.com/item/1005001451833138.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.6.284e52ce4Cu8lb&gatewayAdapt=glo2tha DC fuses are Type gPV while Type gG are usually AC rated general purpose fuses. A much cheaper gG fuse can as well break DC but the voltage must be well below the rated AC voltage (1/3).

Beyond 63A you would then have to use this: th.aliexpress.com/item/1005005032002472.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2tha

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Class T fuses for high current applications, or DC MCCB. In Australia, these two components are recommended due to high interrupting capacity (which is what is needed for large battery banks and parallel solar strings).

Hi. I don't know what other brands do different, but if they make the breaker in the same DIN-Rail MCB form, they will look very similar inside. The biggest difference will be the choice of materials and quality of parts. Every small detail can make a huge impact on a delicate mechanical device, and that will then justify the higher price. I actually wouldn't even have a easy source for those other brands other than some international shipping from the other side of the world which would bring up the cost for one breaker to 40-50 USD. Non-polarized MCB DC breakers are a big thing in Australia but preety much unknown in the rest of the world. There are still DC MCCBs which are typically build in the tradition of non-polarized, but those are quite huge and do not fit into a DIN distribution panel.

hi, welcome 🤗

Sorry man, I do not have any idea of what you are talking about. This is a 48VDC power distribution. There is no ground, so there is no leakage protection. None of your GFCIs would work there or would have any other purpose. Every breaker there is installed for the purpose of short-circuit protection to prevent cable fires only as overload is taken care of all the equipment itself. A fuse blows within a blink of an eye when exposed to hundreds of amps which would flow there in case of a fault. Similar to a breaker, but if the DC breaker is poled the wrong way it would start burning.

Look. Everybody knows that Americans are the best...at least they have the greates Ego of them all. We Europeans and the other rest of the world can only use what we can buy. So why can't we but that american stuff? I am hoping it's not because you guy want us to get killed on all this Substandard we have to use so that you can then later take over the emty planet ;)

well, I didn't change anything as those clips worked for me. I don't clip onto the components, just touch them with the edge of the clip. But I think it would be possible to even maybe solder a very short tip between the 2 fingers. Just keep the injector side and probe side near to the point of measurement.

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore I found some 'four-wire' probes typically sold for the YR1035 (aliexpress part 1005007203133289). They have dual tips that are 1mm apart .. I will buy these and terminate to a green block

@@technomad900 yes, for the YR1035 there are the normal probes wich are used for battery terminals and also component probes. I have the meter but only the normal probes which are not suitable to work on a PCB.

Still possible, once landed I frequently ask to go have a chat with the pilots, and unless there is that famous « I have a phone number for you to call » because of an incident, they’ll usually accept

I highly depends on the airline. Once the plane is docked and a flight is over, the cockpit is "open" again. Per regulations the flightdeck door must be locked for unauthorized personnel or any passengers from the moment boarding begins and de-boarding ends.

and a typical breaker you will only switch once. as long there is no over current they will usually never open...

Yes. There is no question about it. The problem is only that a NOARK breaker would cost me about 50 dollars with shipping, so a full bank would cost several hundreds. If there is no other way, one would have to spend it of course.

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore That is why I am broke. I spent many hundreds on the NOARK breakers. lol.

Yes mate. You cannot be sure about anything these days anymore, especially what comes from China even if they say its a factory outlet. I am done with them now anyways. Just the fuses that I have ordered now are more expensive then those MCBs, are rated to 1000V DC and will do their job in any climate :) I won't be here when they arrive, but we will then see it in autumn.

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Fuses are always best for reliability in all conditions. My understanding is, all external breakers (regardless if AC or DC) should be installed within a weatherproof enclosure for the very reason you have raised (that is, the moisture and dust can and does degrade the breakers). When I say "weatherproof", I literally mean within a gasket sealed enclosure to minimize ingress of moisture and dust. Your breakers that are used in the external installation are technically not installed within a weatherproof enclosure, but rather a "splash proof" enclosure to shelter from direct rain exposure.

@@Matthew_Australia yes, that is correct. Here the breakers should even be airconditioned ;))

NanQue is the only one Chinese brand manufacturing non-polarized DC-breakers. Any other brand, even the most reputable Chinese like Chint, do not have non-polarized, only polarized so they are not universally usable on the battery side with bi-directional currents. And there are only less then a handful international manufacturers for non-polarized DC, mostly Australian. Using a breaker in series with a fuse has no safety advantage, it might just have a comfort advantage if you want to use the breaker as a switch. But this cylindrical fuses with holder can disconnect a circuit easily as well. The mechanical breaker will always be the weak point compared to the fuse.

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore I have a Delixi DZ47sZ two-pole MCB rated at 63A, 500V DC. I haven't used it yet but I noticed it has - and + signs top and bottom but on opposite sides. E.g looking at the MCB head on, the top left pole is negative and the bottom left pole is +. The top right pole is labeled positive while the bottom right pole is labeled negative. Does this mean this can be used in cases where currents flow either way like in batteries?

@@adon8672 no, this is a classic polarized DC-breaker. You can choose which side is IN, but you need to follow the markings for polarity. I fit would be used in a bi-directional battery circuit, then during charging or discharging, at on time the polarity would be wrong as you would either feed in with positive at the neg marking, vice versa... You can use such a breaker on the PV side, where polarity and flow doesn't change.

I had the first two breakers failing a couple of month ago and I have opened the 1-pole breaker. That one was tripping with no reason and I couldn't find any trace why that would be happening. I threw those 2 away already, so I can only open up this one. As it does have visible heat damage, it will have discolored parts inside. I am definitely not going back to mechanical devices. No more brands, as i had now probably 4 different branded DC-breakers failing and if you then want a non-polarized, there are only 2 more, very expensive brands left. I am switching to fuses, never had any issues with those ;)

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Fair- and I usually do have fuses somewhere in the mix because of paranoia, but I do like having circuit breakers for switchable isolation- though if you've got the right kind of fuse holder, they can do that too

Such wall usually do not stand long. One or two storms will do its job. I even saw portions of brick walls collapse while they are constructing them before they had the chance to put a steel reinforced intermediate layer. Thats why I have sworn to myself to never lean on a wall in a high-rise building in the city :)

Hi. I would buy either 8x LFP cells or a 24V LFP battery if available. Using one BMS is easier then having 2 sets of packs inside. If you have 2 LFP batteries in series, each of the 2 BMSs might disconnect when a cell is low. So you would need to open up each battery and solder a bypass switch to the mosfet bank. You would then have 2 switches and in case of a reset, press both simultaneously.

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore Hi thank you for your video's and your time and for reaching out to me so quick. Have a grate day.

Usually it does. As well it finds the Port by itself... You got the same cable that I have (USB CH340 to 6pin RS232) and checked if it was recognized be the windows OS? You have to find a CH340 device in connected devices. If the device if connected but the USB port is not automatically found by PBmsTools, then try to select a few USB ports manually and check if it can connect. If you are trying on the RS485 serial with a cable from the battery manufacturer then it won't work like this. For that you have to follow the instructions which you get from the supplier.

In my TNC-S grid I can do that, yes. But you still have to disconnect both the Ls and the Neutral on the transfer switch of each source...

Danke Kostas!

Hi. Your thought process is correct, but the reason why SPDs are installed before any RCDs is that surges do not trip the RCDs, which would now happen. Did you measure the leakage current on your defective SPD? It would be interesting to know how much it was. Probably one should really check them from time to time 🤔

@@RolandW_DIYEnergyandMore the leakage was something like 650mA if I remember correctly. if the next leak is below 30mA, worse case would be a loss of 165watts per day which would be insignificant. the only real question is if a MOV that starts to leak prematurely would still be able to dissipate/shunt transient voltage spikes of many thousands of volts? another thing, reason I thought of using an RCBO for SPD leak detection is that RCD reaction time is in the millisecond range and the MOV reaction time is in the nanosecond range. so the RCBO would not trip during an actual surge event and it would have sufficient time to send the current to ground (which could be a parallel path to source). the RCBO would only trip if there's premature continuous leaking due to MOVs going bad. at least that is my theory 😊

@@duznt-xizt strange, I would have expected the MOV to burn out at such high permanent currents as it is just a piece of plastic. Good to know though. The RCD solution will prevent such cases. The device should hold still for most of the surges (Type 3 SPD= MOVs built in into appliances) but I would still expect it to trip at least when there are more energetic surges cause by lightning involved. Its wort a try :)