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I’m looking for one that can run DC Locos on it and DCC without having two separate controllers (if possible, cause I’m trying to save money) and I was thinking of going for the Bachmann command center, cause looking at prices the other ones just seem way too expensive cause I wouldn’t be opposed to buying an analog controller along with the DCC one, but if I don’t get the Bachmann one which I think is the cheapest correct me if I’m wrong I don’t wanna get a more expensive one and then have to get a different controller to run the analog ones (i’m pretty new to this stuff. That’s why I asked so many questions. Just wanted to know.) (by the way my layout is gonna have three big ovals. Like I mean, like 10 foot oval. if that helps.) so in conclusion I’m gonna have three big ovals on my track and I wanna run some DCC locomotives. But I also have a lot of DC locomotives and I was planning on putting one Bachmann E-Z command plus and I was gonna plan on getting three overtime one for the Outerloop one for the middle loop and one for the inner Loop and since I wanna run analog locomotives, I was going to use insulated switches so each loop had its own power source cause if I wouldn’t insulate the points and run two analog ones on different loops, they would both get power and I don’t want that and I don’t wanna spend more than one $150-$200 per controller (i’m in the US by the way) and I just wanted to come here and ask since I’m new to DCC and still picking what controller I should get if I should do that or if I should do something else because the only other option I can think of is spending 750 minimum to get something that’ll last longer and it’s better instead of the 450 Bachmann thing just wanted to ask cause once again I am new to this (sorry for the long comment 😅)

You should like take it off the track for about 15 seconds I’ve heard to reset to reboot I’ve heard. Useful video thanks

What about a 3 digit number. Is it a long or short number.?..And what if you don't know the loco actual number...what is the way to get to default No.3 with NCE power cab and NCE N14K1 decoder?

Really great overview of a range of controllers - thank you! Great advice for a newbie like me! Also, anyone else hear the blood-curdling scream at 6:33 when you mention the cost of the Dynamis Ultima system??? Hope everyone was ok!!

Great so how do I get it from cab number 11 back to cab number 3

Great vid. Getting my ducks in a row at the moment with getting back into the hobby at 51 since stopping around 18! So I only know DC, and to be honest I dislike chips and gadgetry, but, if it can make the sounds to improve realism, the running is better and more capable, maybe I could make friends.

Pronounced ‘Dappol’ not ‘Daypole’.

Great little video on the upgrades, ,just picked up a secodhand shop Triang bundle of old rolling stock for $40 that I am going to clean up and upgrade. Some nice examples to start a collection. Then do some simple dioramas with them. New sub today from AUS

To the point and very helpful. Thank you!

Interesting video! Have both locomotives the same construction and weight?

Great video I tried this it seemed to work. When I set the CV 8 it does move a little. But the loco will still not move. I've just installed an new laisebcc decoder. With stay alive and was work great.until I tried to set the address following the instructions in the book for nce power cad that didn't go will and ended up just trying to exit the menu and from then it has not moved. Please help.

I have a Lenz system and like it but my favourite is the power cab it is connected to the DCC power box and Alpha box they are great.

As far as I know Bernd Lenz invented DCC.

@ 0:45 seconds, you said that "this will bring up the main MENU whilst showing "Program on main" This is nothing to do with a main "menu" but everything to do with using the mainline of your layout to program the locomotive. Remember; it's either programming on the main (entire track) or on an isolated spur better known as a "Programming track" .

Thanks for this. I'm seriously fed up of my flat cable getting knotted up and wrapped around things. It doesn't need to be too long either and I have 3D printed a caddy to hold the handset so no catapulting it across the shed lol. Thank you for sharing

A nice kit, goes together well. I've made so many of these. My one tip would be to use the later Airfix multi diagram instructions.

Will this work for a TCS K1D4 decoder? I have tried with no success.

I'm building the BP version of this. I'm relieved that you're doing the vacuum brake cylinders the same way I have. Those instructions are pretty vague. My next dodgy step is the brake shoes, so I'm hoping to see how you do them 😎

For me being rather ignorant what is staying alive, other than a song by the Bee Gees 😂

Currently putting together a layout. And the conclusion I’d already come to is ultimately I’m going to go for one of the NCE powerCab controllers or one of the Gaugemaster Prodigy Express controllers in the long run. Thing is, currently my budget for a DCC controller is perhaps limited. Therefore chances are my first one will no doubt be one of the rather less than perfect examples you’ve listed in your story, whilst I put everything together.

I'll might buy dapol kits tank wagon and mineral I'll look out for one in Glasgow model railway show on Friday February

I did the install but my Peckett stalls on all my turnouts (using Peco Unifrogs)

I am super new to all this. I’m guessing you have some kind of keypad controller?

I have a loco with a NCE N14A0 decoder. I cannot change the loco number . Only the headlight on/off works. Any ideas how to get it running? Atlas GP40

Looks like a fun show! I am still amazed at how smooth everything runs after all of the tear downs and builds to setup at these events. Thanks for another great video, and it is great to see your channel back! Looking forward to the next one.

How refreshing to have three minutes of info in video that only takes three minutes. There are hundreds of youtubers that could do with learning that skill!

YAY! great to see you back.......thanks for the video👍

It nice to see you back John I hope you are well They some fantastic looking layout here Love the snow one Keep safe ARP

Looks great! I’d totally forgotten about the Dundee show, and wasn’t able to go to the Perth one in the summer either! Hopefully next year.

Nice, thank you.

Quick question: if I change the address of my loco on the main using this technique, will it mess with any other locomotives on the layout? I can only run my equipment at my local club and don't want to mess up the locomotives of it and other members

looks to me like they both shaky going over so many points, I will go with the Hornby simple because of colour but I already have and Ref and grey Parcel sector version, that will do for me. But I have just seen the Branch line version, lovely livery Black top light blue with s white strip, very smart 😃😃

My city of Birmingham has this issue . Sound comes on then it moves when commanded then stops, and sound stops, I’ll give this a try

To have all my diesels ticking over on shed is fabulous, The power cab is brill.

Done this on program track and everything seems to work,but when I put it back on my layout,sound works ,but it will not move? Any suggestions,loco is a rapido model.

I'm constantly getting "cannot read cv". (on Hornby Class 40 tts loco)

Hi John, do you know if the NCE Powercab is capable of say creating a series of functions to play out in a sequence such as a train in a station opening the passenger doors, getting the whistle from platform staff through to the guards bell or buzzer to move the train and then get an on board announcement such as where the train is going to.

Just looking around net for solutions: my dynamis has suddenly stopped working ,basestation wont recognize the handset and switch on the power.. ive tried new handset, even borrowed another bastation. Now heres the thing- i tested it elsewhere in model shop and another household and it switches on.. Why does it not work in my household.? Nothing has changed.. ever come across this? Im absolutely flabahgasted..

These instructions don’t work with the NCE procab, can you advise how I gain access to functions 10 onwards please

thank you for this video help me out alot.

Looks nice. It's just a shame that it is almost impossible to buy in the Netherlands. It still wants to be at model railway fairs. But the price is higher than for a ready-made model

Definitely prefer the Bachmann!

Thanks so much!

thank you mate

Hi. I have an NCE powercab and recently I have spots on my track where the train stops. Lights flash then it goes again. Can you help?

kadees work very well when set up correctly with some exceptions. On short wheelbase UK stock, the kadee magnet is too long and it is almost impossible to stop a train anywhere near the magnet without it activating a coupling and disconnecting. Smaller/shorter magnets are requred (like the little discs mentioned above) . They also do not like the UK small radius curves (try longer versions) and do not couple well on a curve. A big advantage is to uncouple, then gently back onto the waggon and push it to the desired position on a siding, (that is, if contacted while still on the magnet they do not couple up but lock open).

Excellent alot better than silent running, Thankyou for your tips on NCE controller I'm building a TMD layout no rolling stock, But the sound of multiple diesels on shed is rather nice.

I have a real problem with my power cab it reads con where loc should be when I select loc number 3 and nothing happens but if I select loc with long number it works any idea hoping you can help Paul

on my hand set it dose not read loc it reads con ??????

I think I have a problem with my nce hand set when I got a new loco put it on the track and went through the normal program and it just read CON???? and no go is there some thing wrong with my hand set