Відео

I like the second knife, what brand is it?

To be fair to the vast majority of people with the cheap kitchen knife sets they are perfectly fine to use. In the 90s I won a, then, expensive knife set as it would have cost £200 to buy and for the average domestic user that was a lot of money. To give a reference for how much it was for that amount I could have paid 10 weeks rent on my one bedroom flat, 2 years rental on my tumble dryer from radio rentals. Since getting them whenever I have felt the need for it to be sharpened I paid for it and I have even paid for new handles and the set is still going now 30 years later. Where as friends of mine have gone through multiple cheapo knife sets.

Hi James. Could you please do a demonstration of the kasfly sandpaper holder. Maybe some convex sharpening? Thank you, and have a happy Christmas and a happy new year.

You back Good katana😍

Can you list all the stones on the chart? Where can someone find the info on what stones were tested? It was confusing to me. I don't understand the abrieviations for the manufacturing brands.

Sanmai used to be simpler and cheaper to make because it was easier to put a high carbon steel core and add the soft cladding to make the blade cut really well and still be durable than creating higher performance steel because the science and technology to make it wasn’t there. Nowadays you can make large quantities of high performance powder steels or billets cheaper while sanmai steel requires quite a bit of labor and skill which actually makes it impractical in the profit oriented western culture. There is a romanticism attached to the process of sanmai making that comes from Japanese culture and its history of sword making and blacksmithing…. Probably the reason why they are the only ones to make it today

Hi ! are this saya for yoshikane available on the website ?

Does the shinkiro ktip fit this saya?

For someine like myself whose hands aren't stable enough to hold a steady angle, what's an alternative?

You've listed on your site that the blade height is 43mm. It looks to be more than that.

I have Kiritsuke Gyuto from Yoshikane Hamono SKD version and it's my favorite one.

Ok what you say makes perfect sense but I am an old fellow who will find sharpening the way you do very difficult. So are there any ways that I can train my myself to sharpen my knives as I do have some very nice ones that I use a lot. Having said that I will try the sharpie method and see how I go but anyway thanks for the heads up as it had occurred to me that sharpening say a Santuko knife for example was difficult using one of those guides.

The behind the edge thickness plays a far bigger role than the keenness of the apex itself. Geometry cuts. It’s that simple. Think of a blunt pairing knife, it still slices an apple with little effort; then think of an extremely sharp axe, it won’t thinly slice an apple like the pairing knife. I thin all my knives. I never use V-bevels and I actually blend the flat primary grind directly into the apex (convex) by grinding away every bit of shoulder metal between them that is unnecessary. I then apply a _very_ small micro bevel (the only bevel on it) that can’t be seen with the naked eye. It results in a knife that slices thin rice paper like it’s not even there and can even pushcut rice paper- but not consistently, all with a # 600 finish on the apex. When the convex shoulder area becomes too large I’ll thin the primary on a 2x48” belt grinder.

By JIS standards the Shapton # 1000 is a # 700 stone and # 1500 is a # 1200 stone. We are better using Microns than grit numbers. The Suehiro really made the layers show up very nicely. The Chosera # 1000 left a nicer scratch pattern overall.

Japanese knives. Assembled by kindergarteners with hot glue. No wonder I can feel my Japanese knife wobble inside if I wave it back and forth. Give me a descent european knife/handle, assembled by adults, anyday over that nonsense.

As science of sharo found, the big rowdy burr from sharpening on one side for along time can sinply be folded back with minimal sharpening on the other side, without actually apexing that side, so you can end up with an uneven grind. I like to swap back and forth every couple dozen seconds to approach the apex more evenly until I start getting one before switching to side to side and maybe edge trailing after that to refine to a more thin wire burr instead of chippy burr, unless I want to stop at that grit.

A fan favorite way to thin a knife is to put a low angle on it, like 8-12 degrees per side, and then perhaps put a very small fast to sharpen slightly less acute angle, maybe 2-4 degrees. If it's a thinnish knife already overall, usually this is good enough. If it's a thick spine there's only so much regular thinning will do.

The reasons why some people prefer the Naniwa Chosera/Pro 800 grit over the 1000 grit are: 1. The 1000 grit can "load up" more easily. The slurry becomes muddier, which can slow down the cutting process. While some people find this manageable, others prefer a clearer slurry. 2. On certain softer steels, the edge may lose its toothiness when finished on a 1000 grit stone. 3. Following Takayuki Shibata's differential grit sharpening style. 800 grit and 8000 grit on the other edge side.

Is Yoshihiro Tsubaki Oil good buy for kitchen knife?

Too much thought. Just give me sharpened squarestock.

people who spend 800 dollars on a knife are insane

helpful video, that promotes smart decisions rather than "buy buy buy!"

This video is top notch!

it's no good, but I will sell you one.......

Thanks for that Video. I was about to get the cerax and i was right :)

yep, I tell people this all the time. Grit means nothing it is just a number for the manufacturer to compare their own line to each other.

Yes the sound I knew but hadn’t registered in my brain Ty🙏👍

I have knives with three different angles. I am not up to learning to free hand for all 3.

Nice!! When are you getting your ebony heart handled 240mm ks's in next?

what type of steel?

which blacksmith is it

Can you pls give me the measurements for the smaller one I need it for school because we were told to make something so I picked a knife holder so if you could make like a short video or something talking about the measurements

Western knives are handle heavy and the blade is thick and heavy. With Japanese knives both the handle and the blade are light. The problem is that some manufacturers make hybrid knives, western handle with Japanese blade, resulting in unbalanced knives.

nice video, however user must not forget, that all of these stones have different bonding hardness and have different concept of using - only the scratch pattern say about nothing if you don’t debur correctly

Dumb question, why are western knives built to be so bottom-heavy?

hi what in your opinion hardest metal shapton gonna work ? thank you

Been meaning to fly over from nz to visit the shop in sydney thanks for the vid

You can also putvthe knife in the freezer, as it makes glue brittle.

You are overcomplicating the subject, knife sharpening guides work perfectly!!! Excellent for non-professionals.

I'm not 100% in line with this conclusion. I've used many stones and find that grit is just one part of the equation. I like Shapton Pro for sharpening tools, as the bond is really hard and dishes slowly. If it's hard, it means that the stone doesn't produce slurry as much. So you're sharpening with the grits that are in the stone, not so much the grits that are in the slurry. The grit in the slurry gets moved and crushed, creating a mix of "true" grit and finer grit. So the scratch pattern can get more "blurred," whereas with the Shapton, the scratch pattern is more of a "true" grit scratch. I stone polish blades I make, and there's a big difference between Shapton and Naniwa. I found that Shapton doesn't leave a nice finish, but since the scratches are more even and the finish is less "blurred," I like Shapton in my progression as it doesn't hide any lines that need to be removed. With Naniwa (or other stones), the more blurred finish is nicer but can hide some deeper scratches. I'm not saying that your conclusion is wrong; the fineness of the grit is a key factor. But there are other aspects that need to be kept in the analysis. Thank you for taking the time to make this nice video; it's very nice to see those magnified images.

Absolutely fantastic video! Thank you for sharing it

What are the Pros & Cons of buyinga knife while on a trip to Japan VS Buying Online or Local store. (I'm in California or I'd totally come visit your shop)

What Naniwa+Suehiro+King have in common is that they are slower steel removers due to slurry. Shapton removes seel faster. This is a reason why Shapon feel rougher stone. It is not a question abou the partilce size. Think about the subject if you ride in a car at 100 km/h and you'd like to break over the gravel (Naniwa/Suehiro/King=slury) you will not be able efectively stop. Where as if you break the car over rough asphalt your breaking distance will be much shorter. The particles in Shapon stone do not break out and roll as in Naniwa/Suerhiro/King therefore Shapton creates more profound scratch pattern. In a #1000 grit aprox 15 micron stone we are looking for efective sharpening = effective steel removal = deeper scratches. From my point of view Shapton is #2 stone for me and if you would like to know what is fastes stone in #1000 grit category visit Templo del Filo in Lima, Peru.

Makes total sense, thanks for sharing this information!

I wish they made these in SG2

great video, ive heard some people saying that the shapton 1k is a bit rougher than the claimed grit but this really helps to put those claims into perspective. this is still a stone i intend to get as one of my first proper stones alongside the 2k, is the shapton 2k in the same boat as the 1k in terms of being rougher than the claimed grit? and if that is the case with all the shapton stones would you say a king 4k or the shapton 5k would be a better stone to go to after the shapton 2k? just going off of what is available in my country and want to make sure i know im getting the best, or at least a very good combo, thanks so much! (would have gone for choseras but they arent available here sadly)

Shitty test: don’t use Damascus, each layer has variable hardness, no knife is the same and they dont compare

Gran video, excelente gracias y un saludo

Hello, I have naniwa chosera 800 and 5000. It's ok to go from 800 to 5000 or should I buy a 3000? It's a must or it's not really big differendo do from 800-5000 to 800-3000-5000?

Nice to hear the sound of a professional sharpener!