I had not even thought about this until Murray Carter the knife maker mentioned this was necessary to thin the primary bevel before sharpening the secondary bevel. Good video bringing this to information to the masses.
@@KnivesandStones how did you get that photo? It is really useful. Why didn't your thinning effort grind through the cladding almost all the way up? Is a slight hollow grind (36" diameter wheel) a better or worse tool to thin the blade like this one behind the primary edge? Good stuff!
This got recommended to me after I watched burrfection video on why you don't need to/shouldn't thin your knives. Had to shut the video down after 3 minutes because it was full of misinformation. THIS is good information. You should have more views 👍
Ryky Tran hasn't ever gotten a knife to the point where you would need to thin it. He doesn't work in the restaurant industry so he doesn't understand but he tries to act like he does. This is why a lot of people in the knife community don't like him. Misinformation to hundreds of thousands of his followers.
Thanks for the nod buddy. While I don't know much about the youtube scene (and not towards a particular individual). I do have customers coming in to the store and saying they got quite confused by the different options and (mis)inforamtion from the social media. Sometimes I have to spend a huge amount of time going through what went wrong and why. So I thought maybe I should get a set of videos done for my customers which I believe is CORRECT.
I also watch and subscribe to the Burfection channel, and I do recommend it. He didn't say you NEVER need to thin a knife, this is a case of several years of regular machine sharpening, on a machine I would suggest wasn't set up properly. Certainly if I got a knife like this in for sharpening, I would use a similar method. It is true to say this is an unusual or maybe extreme case, but it does happen. I do get some seriously damaged/mis shapen knives in at times, "normal" rules may not apply in these cases. It is true a well cared for and correctly sharpened knife shouldn't need thinning, at least not for many many years.
@@marklocker8042 it is probably true that homecooks might not need to thin the knife in a few years; however you'd be surprised that a large portion the knives sent to us by chefs needs thinning, some of them are not better than this one.
@@marklocker8042 See the thing is burrfection also shows european cutlery on his channel. I am european and I am a chef. So I know alot about especially the german knives(yes, I am german). And those german knives basically come in a condition where you instantly would need thinning. Or at least for my standarts you would need it. And even on japanese knives. Sometimes they come with an angle of about 17-18 degree which they shouldn't have. So if you drop that down to 12 degrees you will also have a thicker shoulder which means you easily just thickened the knife to where it would usually be after maybe a year or more of stone sharpening. Sure, for home cooks you don't NEED to drop that angle and you don't NEED thinning but if you care about the performance of your knife, you should.
You are getting a lot of well deserved credit in the comments for this video. You have produced the most straightforward, honest, and understandable explanation of the purpose and need for knife thinning that I have encountered. You and Murray Carter are kindred spirits in this regard. I appreciate there is a diversity of viewpoints on this topic but after having to repair chips in several used knives I have purchased the knives clearly don't perform particularly well after sharpening. I have avoided thinning the blades in order to preserve the finish but you pointedly settled that issue in the video. This should be required viewing for aspiring free-hand knife sharpeners. Thank you for this video and the additional knowledge in your responses to the previous comments.
Finally I understand why the customer's knife is not good enough. It became an axe splitting the potatoes and not slicing the potatoes with the cutting edge. 💡 The customer's knife still have a good edge but not good enough for the type of work to have a clean cut. Thank you 4 this video.
This is an excellent explanation of why a knife that may "seem" sharp, doesn't cut, and the image of the cutting edge actually being the CLADDING was eye-opening! I've also taken this story to-heart to think about the need to "thin" a Western knife that has been badly sharpened for a (potentially very...) long time, because it will look like the image the you drew. Thank you
You deserve much more subs. Thinning is common sense for an experienced whetstone sharpener but you're clearing the doubts of people new to the whetstone sharpening. Thanks for that. Also, if someone doesn't want to scratch the finish, it is possible to lower the sharpening angle to e.g. 12 degrees insted of 20 degrees for example, and then, due to thickness, it will create a very wide and thin bevel that will work similar to a thinned knife. That's also a safe thing to increase performance without like trying to change the whole grind and get worse food release etc.
how will this be reflected on a pocket knife? will it eventually remove so much material that the knife will be a toothpick? or is this more of an issue for kitchen knives that see significant use? i have never seen a knife that looks like half the blade was removed through sharpening. i suppose that is just an issue with overly aggressive sharpening machines?
@@cagneybillingsley2165 Hi, pocket knives are usually sharpened at a high angle and even with highly convex geometry, so it can handle outdoor use and abuse without chipping etc. Kitchen knives are another story. In japanese gyutos there two thickness types, workhorse and laser. Workhorse gyutos have around 4mm spine thickness and tapers down based on maker's preffered grind. Laser gyutos have around 2mm spine thickness and tapers down more gradually. With a laser gyuto there won't be a need for thinning since grind is thin and gradual. With workhorse gyutos, you can get the apex sharp but it won't want to go through hard vegetables like a carrot, and wedge. For a german soft steel chefs knife, the thickness will be high similar to a workhorse gyuto, so even for the initial use you would need thinning to avoid wedging on carrots etc. But this is also about the preffered edge angle. Some people find low angle edges fragile, they want to bang the knife to board called chopping so they use higher angle. Some people like to be delicate will pull cuts and have a scalpel like thin edge. I'm in the second group. Happy to chat further if these sounds interesting. If you want to see real life examples people need thinning over time, you can search togitogi, there is a japanese knife sharpener guy receives "not working" knives from customers that 100% of the time they require heavy thinning. He spends most of the time on 200-400 grit range and just kind of finishes with upper grits quickly.
Glad to see a video from you. Follow you on IG. Love when knowledgeable people give good information. I hope you inform your customer how to take better care of his knives.
Thanks Adam. We offer free sharpening tutorials in our showroom, however even myself ruined a few knives in my career before realising that "hey, I should have done THAT" :D
so i’ve started taking my folding knives and laying them flat on the secondary bevel and then i thin the blade until i reach a zero grind on the primary bevel and then i sharpen the primary cutting edge. most folding knives have a wide shoulder and a relatively thick blade so this thins the blade a lot and then i can remake the cutting angle from scratch. when i first started doing this i really didn’t have good equipment so it could take me months to finish a small folding knife. about a month ago i started buying water stones and then dmt plates and then ceramic stones. but this is what brought me to watch youtube videos is because im trying to get better and im realizing that i dont know everything that i need to. the ceramic stones are awesome but they cut really deep so they dont make great finishing stones because micro abrasions make the edge less stable even at 16000 grit and dmt plates are also like that and i bought expensive dmt plates but they weren’t as good as the cheapest dmt plates i bought so i would just get the cheapest ones from now on but they don’t cut as good as the ceramic. water stones take pressure to release the sharpening compound and pressure can make the grinding uneven and since the stones are soft they become uneven but it cuts much smoother than the more aggressive cutters. natural stones make the best finishing stones in my opinion because ware hard and smooth. if i had to do it over again i would have my lower grit stones all in ceramic for removing a lot of material and then natural finishing stones and my mid lower grits in dmt and my higher grits in water stones. my lower grit water stones don’t do much at all without adding a lot of pressure
Knives & Stones and Burrfection are both great and informative channels. I learn so much and the differences in opinion creates a collegial atmosphere which is rare, special and challenges one to think critically. I never thought I could sharpen knives but with the help of these channels, family members bring their knives over for sharpening. They end up with sharp knives and I learn a little bit more about sharpening each time. I love traveling on the path that never ends. Thank you!
Burrfection spreads tons of wrong information all the time. I am not sure why, if he just doesn't know better, or if he thinks he needs to dumb things down for his audience, or what.
Excellentes explications, non seulement pour l’aiguisage mais surtout, surtout, sur la façon d’entretenir le potentiel de coupe par l’angle du biseau. Et aussi, belle leçon d’humilité. Merci de partager le savoir, le savoir-faire et la réflexion dans ce vaste domaine.
A fan favorite way to thin a knife is to put a low angle on it, like 8-12 degrees per side, and then perhaps put a very small fast to sharpen slightly less acute angle, maybe 2-4 degrees. If it's a thinnish knife already overall, usually this is good enough. If it's a thick spine there's only so much regular thinning will do.
Fantastic video! This is a great company if anyone is looking for knives or stones no pun intended lol! No, I am not related, work for them or have any interest in the business apart from being a happy customer. They are quick on deliveries and have a great range! Aussie pride!!!
Very clearly information. I got the problem as same as this case. After sharpening It can cut through the paper very smooth but when start using in the kitchen it could not cut anything.
The behind the edge thickness plays a far bigger role than the keenness of the apex itself. Geometry cuts. It’s that simple. Think of a blunt pairing knife, it still slices an apple with little effort; then think of an extremely sharp axe, it won’t thinly slice an apple like the pairing knife. I thin all my knives. I never use V-bevels and I actually blend the flat primary grind directly into the apex (convex) by grinding away every bit of shoulder metal between them that is unnecessary. I then apply a _very_ small micro bevel (the only bevel on it) that can’t be seen with the naked eye. It results in a knife that slices thin rice paper like it’s not even there and can even pushcut rice paper- but not consistently, all with a # 600 finish on the apex. When the convex shoulder area becomes too large I’ll thin the primary on a 2x48” belt grinder.
Enjoyed the video. It seems very few people actually think about what's going on at the edge when they sharpen their knives. I'm used to regrinding as I do some carpentry. I can get my Japanese chisels and plane blades super sharp on my water stones, but I'm not so competent with my knives. I'll just have to put more time in.
Thank you for sharing. How many hours were required to thin that knife ? What do you use to re-etch the knife ? What is your preferred knife blade thickness behind the cutting edge ?
@@urmelausdemeis3495 I have a good 2x72 grinder with good belts, this process would take me 3 to 4 hours. 0.125 mm behind the cutting is about as thin as is practical. To regain performance, the blending grind needs to be carried at least 20mm up the blade. - I have built test equipment to quantify the increased power requirements when cutting high density vegetables. - Power requirements can easily double. - Even small variations in blade profiles, (0.05 mm) 20mm behind the cutting edge will require significantly more power to make the cut. - I will create some youtube videos to share my research soon. - There is much more to be gained in terms of better handle designs.
Another essential video for knife users. I will not be getting the horizontal Japanese grinding wheel anytime soon! But I do have Tormek T7 water sharpening machine - can you achieve similar results using the side of this water wheel and which grade of stone would you recommend? If you have one does this work for you with a Tormek - how about a demonstration video? After this wheel thinning what make and grade of stones do you use to complete the thinning? I think I recognise a 1000 grit Naniwa?
This is gold right here. So simple to understand yet so important to know, thank you! Would you be able to cover sandpaper and machine polishing? I've recently done hand sandpaper polishing 80-5k (Took off black matte finish) and the mirror polish was great but there were a great deal of fine scratches.
been there and done that, my advise is just don't worry about mirror polishing. It takes a LOT of time for very little return. Ultimately if a knife is meant to be used, it will get scratched no matter what. Japan uses buffing wheels to mirror polish blades, which requires a lot of skill and is a risky business (knife flying out, resulting in serious injuries, I have seen it). Doing it by hand needs a lot of patience and repeatation, particularly when dealing with the fine scratches as you said. That is because, higher grit sandpaper shows the in-perfections from the previous grits, and upon seeing this, you just have to go back to lower grits. YES, TIME CONSUMING!
@@KnivesandStones Thanks for your time and everyone at KNS! Im looking forwards to more videos from you guys. (A clip on/wireless microphone would help since I have a hard time hearing). Shinko Seilan came in last week, it's awesome. Thanks again
@@Popeii1 it can be restored back to its original state or even improve but it takes too much time. But then, something that you just have to have right ;)
Finally! Someone who dares to thin "damascus" knives on youtube. Of course it's gonna scratch up with use and proper maintenance. I buy a bunch of vintage chef knives that have a recurve due to being sharpened around the bolster. After reprofiling and sharpening, they're still useless in food-prep. Because they're too damn thick. Thinning by hand is too much work. Buy a bench-grinder if you're serious about thinning old knives.
Hi James,great video! Can you please tell me the brand and model of your horizontal wheel machine that you used for thinning? What grit is the wheels? Thanks!
I think as per your ilastrtions angle of cutting edge is incresing if knife is not thinned . But its not like that. You are keeping the same angle everytime . So the angle will be same. What happens is you will be widening the microbevel into more of a bigger one. So it will have more resistance while passing into food as compared to when it was a small bevel. I think you got the point. If u had used a knife withiout thinning you will notice the cutting edge( shining strip of edge) becomes wide each time. ..😀
How can you tell your blade is getting thick when it's a monosteel? I own an Ashi that I think is getting pretty thick behind the edge, its cutting edge looks a lot larger than it originally was.
Thanks James, Reminded me that one of my knives is also due for thinning. I remember you talking about knives made by Yoshikazu Tanaka. Will they be released on the US website?
Wow I didn't realize how bad the knife was until you showed the choil shots. I've never seen a knife sharpened to where the cladding is the edge, plus it was sooo thick behind the edge.
How i hate when fools buy expansive high performance knife and complain cause he has no knowldge or experience in cooking, sharpening, polishing.. The knife is only as good as its owner🙏! If the knife sucks is cause you suck and you'll be better of with Victorinox Stainless in 3cr9mov😂
... when fools buy an* expensive* high-performance* knife and complain because they* have no knowledge (...) or polishing.* If the knife sucks it's because* you suck ... I hope you do not sharpen like you spell.
I had not even thought about this until Murray Carter the knife maker mentioned this was necessary to thin the primary bevel before sharpening the secondary bevel. Good video bringing this to information to the masses.
Most underrated knife sharpening video on UA-cam.
The choil photos were really helpful for understanding why thinning is important. Great video!
that very much David! I will try to have more illustrations next time!
@@KnivesandStones how did you get that photo? It is really useful. Why didn't your thinning effort grind through the cladding almost all the way up? Is a slight hollow grind (36" diameter wheel) a better or worse tool to thin the blade like this one behind the primary edge? Good stuff!
This got recommended to me after I watched burrfection video on why you don't need to/shouldn't thin your knives. Had to shut the video down after 3 minutes because it was full of misinformation. THIS is good information. You should have more views 👍
Ryky Tran hasn't ever gotten a knife to the point where you would need to thin it. He doesn't work in the restaurant industry so he doesn't understand but he tries to act like he does. This is why a lot of people in the knife community don't like him. Misinformation to hundreds of thousands of his followers.
Thanks for the nod buddy. While I don't know much about the youtube scene (and not towards a particular individual). I do have customers coming in to the store and saying they got quite confused by the different options and (mis)inforamtion from the social media. Sometimes I have to spend a huge amount of time going through what went wrong and why. So I thought maybe I should get a set of videos done for my customers which I believe is CORRECT.
I also watch and subscribe to the Burfection channel, and I do recommend it. He didn't say you NEVER need to thin a knife, this is a case of several years of regular machine sharpening, on a machine I would suggest wasn't set up properly. Certainly if I got a knife like this in for sharpening, I would use a similar method. It is true to say this is an unusual or maybe extreme case, but it does happen. I do get some seriously damaged/mis shapen knives in at times, "normal" rules may not apply in these cases. It is true a well cared for and correctly sharpened knife shouldn't need thinning, at least not for many many years.
@@marklocker8042 it is probably true that homecooks might not need to thin the knife in a few years; however you'd be surprised that a large portion the knives sent to us by chefs needs thinning, some of them are not better than this one.
@@marklocker8042 See the thing is burrfection also shows european cutlery on his channel. I am european and I am a chef. So I know alot about especially the german knives(yes, I am german). And those german knives basically come in a condition where you instantly would need thinning. Or at least for my standarts you would need it. And even on japanese knives. Sometimes they come with an angle of about 17-18 degree which they shouldn't have. So if you drop that down to 12 degrees you will also have a thicker shoulder which means you easily just thickened the knife to where it would usually be after maybe a year or more of stone sharpening. Sure, for home cooks you don't NEED to drop that angle and you don't NEED thinning but if you care about the performance of your knife, you should.
One of the best explanations I’ve seen on maintaining the parallel clad line and thinning.
You are getting a lot of well deserved credit in the comments for this video. You have produced the most straightforward, honest, and understandable explanation of the purpose and need for knife thinning that I have encountered. You and Murray Carter are kindred spirits in this regard. I appreciate there is a diversity of viewpoints on this topic but after having to repair chips in several used knives I have purchased the knives clearly don't perform particularly well after sharpening. I have avoided thinning the blades in order to preserve the finish but you pointedly settled that issue in the video. This should be required viewing for aspiring free-hand knife sharpeners. Thank you for this video and the additional knowledge in your responses to the previous comments.
Finally I understand why the customer's knife is not good enough. It became an axe splitting the potatoes and not slicing the potatoes with the cutting edge. 💡
The customer's knife still have a good edge but not good enough for the type of work to have a clean cut.
Thank you 4 this video.
Brilliant video, clear and precise. I've learnt more watching this than the countless other ones on UA-cam. Thanks
This is an excellent explanation of why a knife that may "seem" sharp, doesn't cut, and the image of the cutting edge actually being the CLADDING was eye-opening!
I've also taken this story to-heart to think about the need to "thin" a Western knife that has been badly sharpened for a (potentially very...) long time, because it will look like the image the you drew. Thank you
You deserve much more subs. Thinning is common sense for an experienced whetstone sharpener but you're clearing the doubts of people new to the whetstone sharpening. Thanks for that. Also, if someone doesn't want to scratch the finish, it is possible to lower the sharpening angle to e.g. 12 degrees insted of 20 degrees for example, and then, due to thickness, it will create a very wide and thin bevel that will work similar to a thinned knife. That's also a safe thing to increase performance without like trying to change the whole grind and get worse food release etc.
how will this be reflected on a pocket knife? will it eventually remove so much material that the knife will be a toothpick? or is this more of an issue for kitchen knives that see significant use? i have never seen a knife that looks like half the blade was removed through sharpening. i suppose that is just an issue with overly aggressive sharpening machines?
@@cagneybillingsley2165 Hi, pocket knives are usually sharpened at a high angle and even with highly convex geometry, so it can handle outdoor use and abuse without chipping etc. Kitchen knives are another story. In japanese gyutos there two thickness types, workhorse and laser. Workhorse gyutos have around 4mm spine thickness and tapers down based on maker's preffered grind. Laser gyutos have around 2mm spine thickness and tapers down more gradually. With a laser gyuto there won't be a need for thinning since grind is thin and gradual. With workhorse gyutos, you can get the apex sharp but it won't want to go through hard vegetables like a carrot, and wedge. For a german soft steel chefs knife, the thickness will be high similar to a workhorse gyuto, so even for the initial use you would need thinning to avoid wedging on carrots etc. But this is also about the preffered edge angle. Some people find low angle edges fragile, they want to bang the knife to board called chopping so they use higher angle. Some people like to be delicate will pull cuts and have a scalpel like thin edge. I'm in the second group. Happy to chat further if these sounds interesting. If you want to see real life examples people need thinning over time, you can search togitogi, there is a japanese knife sharpener guy receives "not working" knives from customers that 100% of the time they require heavy thinning. He spends most of the time on 200-400 grit range and just kind of finishes with upper grits quickly.
Glad to see a video from you. Follow you on IG. Love when knowledgeable people give good information. I hope you inform your customer how to take better care of his knives.
Thanks Adam. We offer free sharpening tutorials in our showroom, however even myself ruined a few knives in my career before realising that "hey, I should have done THAT" :D
so i’ve started taking my folding knives and laying them flat on the secondary bevel and then i thin the blade until i reach a zero grind on the primary bevel and then i sharpen the primary cutting edge. most folding knives have a wide shoulder and a relatively thick blade so this thins the blade a lot and then i can remake the cutting angle from scratch. when i first started doing this i really didn’t have good equipment so it could take me months to finish a small folding knife. about a month ago i started buying water stones and then dmt plates and then ceramic stones. but this is what brought me to watch youtube videos is because im trying to get better and im realizing that i dont know everything that i need to. the ceramic stones are awesome but they cut really deep so they dont make great finishing stones because micro abrasions make the edge less stable even at 16000 grit and dmt plates are also like that and i bought expensive dmt plates but they weren’t as good as the cheapest dmt plates i bought so i would just get the cheapest ones from now on but they don’t cut as good as the ceramic. water stones take pressure to release the sharpening compound and pressure can make the grinding uneven and since the stones are soft they become uneven but it cuts much smoother than the more aggressive cutters. natural stones make the best finishing stones in my opinion because ware hard and smooth. if i had to do it over again i would have my lower grit stones all in ceramic for removing a lot of material and then natural finishing stones and my mid lower grits in dmt and my higher grits in water stones. my lower grit water stones don’t do much at all without adding a lot of pressure
Knives & Stones and Burrfection are both great and informative channels. I learn so much and the differences in opinion creates a collegial atmosphere which is rare, special and challenges one to think critically. I never thought I could sharpen knives but with the help of these channels, family members bring their knives over for sharpening. They end up with sharp knives and I learn a little bit more about sharpening each time. I love traveling on the path that never ends. Thank you!
Burrfection spreads tons of wrong information all the time. I am not sure why, if he just doesn't know better, or if he thinks he needs to dumb things down for his audience, or what.
Well I second Jeffs opinion. Ryky is nice and all, but pls don't learn from him. Treat is as knife soap opera nothing more.
Excellentes explications, non seulement pour l’aiguisage mais surtout, surtout, sur la façon d’entretenir le potentiel de coupe par l’angle du biseau. Et aussi, belle leçon d’humilité. Merci de partager le savoir, le savoir-faire et la réflexion dans ce vaste domaine.
A fan favorite way to thin a knife is to put a low angle on it, like 8-12 degrees per side, and then perhaps put a very small fast to sharpen slightly less acute angle, maybe 2-4 degrees. If it's a thinnish knife already overall, usually this is good enough. If it's a thick spine there's only so much regular thinning will do.
Great video. Something you did not mention is that a properly thinned knife is much faster/easier to sharpen at the apex than a thick knife. Thanks.
Fantastic video!
This is a great company if anyone is looking for knives or stones no pun intended lol!
No, I am not related, work for them or have any interest in the business apart from being a happy customer.
They are quick on deliveries and have a great range!
Aussie pride!!!
I think your explanation on thinning makes total sense thanks for sharing.
Very clearly information. I got the problem as same as this case. After sharpening It can cut through the paper very smooth but when start using in the kitchen it could not cut anything.
Very educational. Thank you for sharing the insights and making the connection to a real life situation where flattening was needed. GREAT!!!
This is a really useful and informative video. I hope you make another about refinishing after thinning.
Great video! The same principle applies to axes as well with heavy use there is a need for geometry correction and proper sharpening angles.
The behind the edge thickness plays a far bigger role than the keenness of the apex itself. Geometry cuts. It’s that simple. Think of a blunt pairing knife, it still slices an apple with little effort; then think of an extremely sharp axe, it won’t thinly slice an apple like the pairing knife.
I thin all my knives. I never use V-bevels and I actually blend the flat primary grind directly into the apex (convex) by grinding away every bit of shoulder metal between them that is unnecessary. I then apply a _very_ small micro bevel (the only bevel on it) that can’t be seen with the naked eye. It results in a knife that slices thin rice paper like it’s not even there and can even pushcut rice paper- but not consistently, all with a # 600 finish on the apex. When the convex shoulder area becomes too large I’ll thin the primary on a 2x48” belt grinder.
Dude youre fucking awesome i learn more from u in 10 mins than i have in ten years anywhere else. Thank you
Excellent video
Enjoyed the video. It seems very few people actually think about what's going on at the edge when they sharpen their knives. I'm used to regrinding as I do some carpentry. I can get my Japanese chisels and plane blades super sharp on my water stones, but I'm not so competent with my knives. I'll just have to put more time in.
This video is top notch!
Thank you for sharing. How many hours were required to thin that knife ? What do you use to re-etch the knife ? What is your preferred knife blade thickness behind the cutting edge ?
Das würde mich auch interessieren
@@urmelausdemeis3495 I have a good 2x72 grinder with good belts, this process would take me 3 to 4 hours. 0.125 mm behind the cutting is about as thin as is practical. To regain performance, the blending grind needs to be carried at least 20mm up the blade.
- I have built test equipment to quantify the increased power requirements when cutting high density vegetables.
- Power requirements can easily double.
- Even small variations in blade profiles, (0.05 mm) 20mm behind the cutting edge will require significantly more power to make the cut.
- I will create some youtube videos to share my research soon.
- There is much more to be gained in terms of better handle designs.
@@danielbottner7700
Vielen Dank für die Informationen. Das ist sehr hilfreich für mich.
Another essential video for knife users. I will not be getting the horizontal Japanese grinding wheel anytime soon! But I do have Tormek T7 water sharpening machine - can you achieve similar results using the side of this water wheel and which grade of stone would you recommend? If you have one does this work for you with a Tormek - how about a demonstration video?
After this wheel thinning what make and grade of stones do you use to complete the thinning?
I think I recognise a 1000
grit Naniwa?
This is gold right here. So simple to understand yet so important to know, thank you!
Would you be able to cover sandpaper and machine polishing? I've recently done hand sandpaper polishing 80-5k (Took off black matte finish) and the mirror polish was great but there were a great deal of fine scratches.
been there and done that, my advise is just don't worry about mirror polishing. It takes a LOT of time for very little return. Ultimately if a knife is meant to be used, it will get scratched no matter what. Japan uses buffing wheels to mirror polish blades, which requires a lot of skill and is a risky business (knife flying out, resulting in serious injuries, I have seen it). Doing it by hand needs a lot of patience and repeatation, particularly when dealing with the fine scratches as you said. That is because, higher grit sandpaper shows the in-perfections from the previous grits, and upon seeing this, you just have to go back to lower grits. YES, TIME CONSUMING!
@@KnivesandStones Thanks for your time and everyone at KNS! Im looking forwards to more videos from you guys. (A clip on/wireless microphone would help since I have a hard time hearing).
Shinko Seilan came in last week, it's awesome. Thanks again
@@KnivesandStones So. Don't waste money on pretty Knives?
@@Popeii1 it can be restored back to its original state or even improve but it takes too much time. But then, something that you just have to have right ;)
@@KnivesandStones I just wondered if you were convincing us not to buy some expensive knives
this is a great video thumbs up thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
What is that thick ass sharpening stone ? Id love to get me one of them !!
Finally! Someone who dares to thin "damascus" knives on youtube. Of course it's gonna scratch up with use and proper maintenance.
I buy a bunch of vintage chef knives that have a recurve due to being sharpened around the bolster. After reprofiling and sharpening, they're still useless in food-prep. Because they're too damn thick. Thinning by hand is too much work. Buy a bench-grinder if you're serious about thinning old knives.
Stropping on a leather strop is recommended, after whetstone sharpening.
Not necessarily you can strap on a super finestone as well
@@JesusChrist-on7so ... you can strop* on a super-fine* stone* as well.
Hi James,great video! Can you please tell me the brand and model of your horizontal wheel machine that you used for thinning? What grit is the wheels? Thanks!
Thank you for a good video 👍 subscribed
Awesome learned a lot from your videos..
So you did not watch yourself and now have to ask your friend Awesome for advice😉. Punctuation exists for a reason.
Man great video, I've been looking for one of those horizontal water wheels for ages. Can anyone point me in the right direction 😅
I think as per your ilastrtions angle of cutting edge is incresing if knife is not thinned . But its not like that. You are keeping the same angle everytime . So the angle will be same. What happens is you will be widening the microbevel into more of a bigger one. So it will have more resistance while passing into food as compared to when it was a small bevel.
I think you got the point. If u had used a knife withiout thinning you will notice the cutting edge( shining strip of edge) becomes wide each time. ..😀
How can you tell your blade is getting thick when it's a monosteel? I own an Ashi that I think is getting pretty thick behind the edge, its cutting edge looks a lot larger than it originally was.
At 9:03 is a perfect example, that you should be able to tell by comparing what is yours like, and what a good one is like, that should be your goal.
Yep, I never liked the machine for knives. Feels ugly too. And takes a lot of metal, and messes up the edge.
James, do you use a strop to polish the blade edge.
Great video as always
i actually just use my jeans, i find it more than enough for my liking. I will probably put a video out to compare the difference!
@@KnivesandStones Yeah, I used my jeans for years then I bought some decent stones. I could swear I got a better finish with the jeans.
Thanks James, Reminded me that one of my knives is also due for thinning.
I remember you talking about knives made by Yoshikazu Tanaka. Will they be released on the US website?
yes definitely! i need to move my a**!
Wow I didn't realize how bad the knife was until you showed the choil shots. I've never seen a knife sharpened to where the cladding is the edge, plus it was sooo thick behind the edge.
yeah, it is one of those really bad ones. We do get knives like this once in a while, it is a huge effort to fix.
Right from the off you can see that the customer's knife is missing a lot of steel.
Kinda like just started this video
The cladding was doing the cutting 😳.
瓜哥威武
How i hate when fools buy expansive high performance knife and complain cause he has no knowldge or experience in cooking, sharpening, polishing.. The knife is only as good as its owner🙏! If the knife sucks is cause you suck and you'll be better of with Victorinox Stainless in 3cr9mov😂
... when fools buy an* expensive* high-performance* knife and complain because they* have no knowledge (...) or polishing.* If the knife sucks it's because* you suck ... I hope you do not sharpen like you spell.