Відео

Thank you so much I really appreciate that! Welcome to the channel

@@mr.airsoft8295 hahah yup! Ended up replacing that starter a few weeks later🤣

Thank you Jon. I don’t think the return line needs to be full of fuel only because it’s simply returning the un-used fuel from the injectors being sent back to the fuel tank. If it’s shuttering and stalling I would check to see if you have enough fuel pressure coming from your fuel pump and start there. Hope this helps

@@ydocproductions5593 thank you. The studdering and stalling is very random just drove 10 miles than it studerd and stalled. Now is running well again. Not quite sure what is going on. This has been happening frequently.

@@alexriel6013 i don’t think there is one out there. All that’s for sale are rebuilt HPOPs. You can get different orings but not the internal parts

@@ydocproductions5593 man the really should make one bc that's a money maker right there lol and do stages for the kits too

@@alexriel6013 that’s actually a really good idea!

@@ydocproductions5593 yeah to bad I can't do it myself or know how to go about making it come true tbh

@@akquicksilver it’s still a mystery to this day what brand of pump it was. Whatever went wrong with it went wrong pretty spectacularly🤣. I’m not the first owner. To the best of my knowledge I’m the 3rd or 4th owner. Still a bone stock truck though.

@@bobtailsthecat I’m glad you liked it. It’s not gonna win any awards, but I got the job done.

@@jayallen408 if you don’t care then yes you could do that, however I wouldn’t recommend it for legality reasons. You want to keep the original mileage of your truck with the mileage of the original gauge cluster.

@@ydocproductions5593 I agree with you. Do you think the instrument cluster would work the same with an 88 Bronco? If I went and found an 80s F-150 or Bronco with a tack I can install it in my 88 Bronco dash

@@jayallen408 I know the gauge clusters are different on those generations of trucks, but the principle should still be the same.

@@ydocproductions5593 very cool thanks I'll try it out and go look for one this weekend at the junkyard

All you have to do is make sure the gauge cluster is the exact same year as your truck otherwise your vehicle won’t charge properly. No wiring change is needed. Good luck with your swap😀👍

@@rizo916 might save ya a few bucks🤣

@@rewoodii that’s great to hear! glad the video was helpful!

Thank you! for a truck being 30 years old it’s rust free!👍

Sometimes there is old grease gumming things up. Sometimes you also have to wiggle the lock cylinder back and forth gently to get it to come out.

@@ydocproductions5593 I did it!!! Thank u so much. My brother fixed the cylinder & now I can return the part for $250 refund. You’re the best.

You’re absolutely correct. I tell everyone who comments on doing this swap to get the right year gauge cluster.

Nice! I’m sure that engine is gonna last a long time👍

I would clean out the lock cylinder the best you can. Old grease can gum things up. I would also make sure the new lock cylinder is clocked the proper way, and lined up. Hope that helps👍

If it’s the right part for the truck I would clean out the ignition cylinder of any old grease that might be binding things up.

It took about a day to go slow and make sure the job was done the right way but it was well worth the effort. That’s good to know about the adjustments I can make on the fender cause even though the gap is minimal it still could be improved on.

If it’s an “f-series” truck it should work. They make those trucks from 1987-1991. Hope it works out for ya👍

Hi, I never have worked on the e-series of vans and so I don’t know exactly but the principal would be the same. You would have to get a guage cluster out of a e series van that has a factory tach. That same gauge cluster would have to be a diesel gauge cluster. The gas and diesel gauge clusters are NOT interchangeable. Lastly that same gauge cluster would have to be one that’s the same year as your van otherwise the vehicle won’t charge properly. As long as it meets all that criteria it just might work, but no promises/guarantees because I don’t know if the writing would work as well. Hope that helps

Hi Larry, I got mine out of a salvage yard for $30 if you wanted you could go to ebay for example, but expect to pay way more. The only issue with this swap I’d warn you about is you HAVE TO make sure your gauge cluster is the same year as your truck, otherwise your vehicle won’t charge properly. As for your mileage it’s almost impossible to guess what your current mileage would be. You could maybe get somewhere in the ballpark by getting a car fax report and back tracking your mileage from there but no way to get an exact number. Hope that helps!

They’re the stock injectors so I didn’t need a 20*. It’s run great ever since I replaced those parts and am so happy with the truck

Hey there. It has been quite some time but don’t worry everything is going great I’m just in the planning stage of the build I have laid out. Still looking for the right truck to modify. Stay tuned!! 👍

I’m not exactly sure. I’d assume they were the same since it’s built on the same platform, but it’s better to be safe than sorry when it comes to something like that. I’m sorry I don’t have a better answer for you but I would recommend you do a little more research before you buy anything.

@@ydocproductions5593 I picked one up at the junkyard , so I think i will take it to the autoparts store and compare the two side by side . Thank you for responding!! Great video

@@SuffShakurHDTV I think that’s a good idea. Good luck with it, and welcome to the channel

I agree, and thank you. Welcome to the channel. Just make sure that if you do this swap you get a gauge cluster that is the same year as your truck otherwise your vehicle won’t charge properly.👍

How should the mating surfaces be prepped?

Thank you for the kind words, that means a lot. Welcome to the channel👍

I’m so glad this worked out for you. I guess there’s just a lot of moving parts that can get gummed up by older diesel fuel. Hard to beat a cheap fix like that!

I wouldn’t force anything that would end up breaking more parts in the steering column. I hate to state the obvious but if something is bound up inside you can try using some wd-40 or whatever you’d like and try inserting the key and try rotating the lock back and forth to try and unlock whatever’s bound up. Other than that you risk doing more harm than good.

Sounds good. Let me know how it turns out👍.

Bro you the man!!! Worked like magic lol.

It might be hard to find those engine/transmission combo that are still in good shape with low miles. There definitely isn’t a shortage of engine parts for these suburbans. However finding parts that aren’t completely worn out for a decent price is the issue.

Ended up using the Motorcraft brand SCAs’👍

I have no experience with the older models but I’m sure the same principle applies👍

@@ydocproductions5593 👍

I’m so glad the video was helpful! It’s definitely not easy to get that starter out but with the right tools and technique it can be done👍

Exactly. My experience was pretty easy compared to others. Thankfully I didn’t have any issues replacing the pump👍

That’s a good question. To my knowledge everything was fine except for the headlight bezel and fender. The semi truck that rounded the corner was going at such a slow speed I doubt it put something out of wack with the rest of the truck. The body line doesn’t line up perfectly but it’s been close enough I haven’t felt the need to mess with it. That being said it’s worth checking to see if it’s square. Thanks for the insight👍

I checked my F 150 1996 and used second bolt behind hood hing, bolt to side of hood latch out to chrome it should read 55 3/4 drivers side, passenger side use second bolt behind hood hinge and run it across like you did the driver side and lay tape flat as you run beside the hood latch to chrome edge for grill hits the metal, should read 56 1/2 and I turned my hood stop straight where mine reads 62 3/4 across, Hope this will help,

@@user-vq3dc2se5d That’s extremely helpful thank you for taking the time to get those measurements.

I have no experience with the “E” series of vans, but I bet the same principle applies. That being said you have to make sure the gauge cluster you buy is the same year as your van otherwise it won’t charge properly. Let me know how it turns out👍

I believe it was $650 with a $200 core charge. I got my pump from RiffRaff Diesel down in southern Oregon. They’re a great company and had excellent customer service when I needed to ask some questions. Can’t recommend them enough.

I’m sorry but the diesel and gasoline tachometers are completely different when it comes to internal wiring. It wouldn’t even work for your truck. If you decide to do this swap it doesn’t matter what gas engine you use. What is absolutely crucial is that you use a tachometer that is the same year as your truck. If you don’t do that your truck won’t charge properly. Good luck with your swap😀👍

Hi Ricky, no there wasn’t any tuners on the truck at all. I even went as far as to remove the kick panel under the dash to look at the back of the ecm and the factory plastic material was still in place where a chip would plug into. Also no aftermarket gauges or evidence of someone drilling into the dash and also stock injectors. To my knowledge it’s a completely stock truck.

That’s not good! Hopefully it doesn’t affect the look of the truck too much

Hi, the speedometer/odometer is the same throughout, so you can keep the original odometer and correct miles on your truck. I have to warn you though. You have to make absolutely sure that the gauge cluster you buy is the same year as your truck, otherwise your truck might not charge properly. Good luck with your truck👍

It was a true farm truck🤣!

That o skoool😂