Відео

lol I see what you did.

It would be cool to be neighbors! Let’s start here the shop teacher told us you need 4 things for an engine to run- suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Not sure why the shop teacher used those words with a room full of teenagers?🤷‍♂️ but I never forgot for some reason 😉. You have some of those parts. Spark and fuel is important. But you need squeeze. And bang at the right time. Compression test would tell us something 120psi ish would be good. Also verify your distributor is timed right. Was it install at Cyl 1 TDC compression stroke?. One of the most common reasons a new engine won’t fire is distributor 180 out of time. But you normally get a pop and bang that way. You are not from what I understand. I guess start with verify timing and compression that will tell us a lot. It’s even possible all the valves are partially open, factory Pontiac valve train isn’t adjustable, if the block was decked, heads milled, thinner head gasket, wrong valves you could have valves open thus causing no compression then of course no start. Please let me know what you find out

@@VinylVillageGarage Thanks for the thorough answer! Honestly, I just tossed the distributor back in Willy nilly, so who know where it is timing wise. That sounds like the best place to start. Newbie mistake on my part. Been wrenching on cars (mostly deloreans) for the last 18 years but all of this is fairly new to me. Never had to deal with a rebuilt engine before.

@browser90 that is a great place to start. As long as the firing order is correct you could just keep rotating the distributor until it starts too.

@@VinylVillageGarage Watched a vid on how to install a distributor on a Chevy 350, I figure it’s identical to a Pontiac 350. Find TDC, put the distributor in with the rotor facing cylinder #1, then rotate the crank until the distributor drops into the oil pump shaft and seats completely. Is that about right?

@@browser90 almost, not just TDC but TDC compression. Additionally Then the distributor rotates counter clockwise on a Pontiac and Chevrolet is clockwise

I am so looking forward to my car being back in black. I had it done back in 1999 and drove it for almost 5 years then it got parked for almost 20 years so it is time to get it back on the road

This car has all new brake lines installed and they are for cars with this set up. Now your car I am assuming you have factory lines still, if so they won’t reach. Need to make or buy new lines to get that proportioning valve to work

And it sands very nice too

Thanks 👍

Thanks 👍

Thanks, will do!

You are awesome! Made my day a lot better or gooder 😎

Right on congrats on the project, you will have a really nice car when done and will say you won’t see many other like yours a cruise in and shows. The trim tool summit racing or Ames sells them. I am sure several places do. I have yet to do mini tubs yet. The metal work part isn’t bad it’s making the rest of the car work. Depends on a few things but you might need a custom fuel tank, rear seat, and few other things so do some research on the tubs you plan to use.

Thanks

👋

No it’s says Emily 🤣

It does, i tried. Much better thanks

The pickup works every 45 degrees and doesn’t matter what cylinder in the same signal. So to only misfire on cylinder 2 I don’t see how it could be the pickup it makes more sense that it is something related only to Cyl 2, mechanical issue, plug wire, or spark plug.

When I strip a car media blast or sanding I clean the metal with metal prep/acid then use epoxy primer and normally anytime I burn thru to bare reapply epoxy. Supposedly this primer is ok for dtm not sure if I trust it

Could Not get it delivered tried three times had to go a different route. ☹️

Thanks again!

It’s all sealed up with epoxy and 2 coats of high build ready for blocking

@@VinylVillageGarage I was referring to the CAMARO atrocity on the decklid. Oh, the huge manatee.

@FINfinFINfinFINfin that isn’t a Camaro spoiler it’s much shorter, and laid flat. It’s a custom spoiler similar to the one Dave kindig sells.

@@VinylVillageGarage Sorry, only '69 Trans Am spoilers are allowed on '69 Firebirds. Your protest is noted, and we will take it under advisement as we plan a way forward after this travesty. Hopefully we can all get some closure and find a way to move on.

@FINfinFINfinFINfin lol, very well I appreciate you taking it into consideration. I will keep that in mind going forward.

I am a fan of polyester primer, I have sanded the entire car with 220 and 320 and a felt if cut ok. Definitely it as easy as urethane but still reasonable and worth the effort

I will seal with a reduced epoxy right before final paint.

👍

I was hoping the 2.0 tip would do it. I will try 2.3 next time. Thanks

Couldn’t get the clausen primer delivered tried for 3 weeks and gave up. Order kept Getting canceled.

It does!

That's what was recommended to me when I did a corvette that had spider issues. It worked fantastic on it but it also took me 4 days to sand it, it was a batch to sand.

It definitely requires more effort to sand then urethane, I have the entire car blocked down to 320 and looks good.

😎

I saw that, Mike at lake and lodge garage used it on his 67 bird. Looks like it sprayed and sanded well

Nice. I’ll have to give it a try.

Built in pink guide coat from Evercoat is garbage my friend Pete UA-cam channel Diyauto school use that junk in his vw ending up reshooting it with something else beware 😮

It did take some effort to block Out more then urethane primer, it cleaned up and sanded out great

I was born in Kansas, might have to ask my parents if they found me in a field 🤣

More to come!

Mostly because I can. Not in a rush like a body shop might be. That is in my opinion why they give you a sanding window that quick as a sales advantage or advertising. My concern is I really feel it is still curing and shrinking well past the 2 hour mark. I would prefer it to be done to help prevent sanding marks from showing back up serval months later. It’s a sore subject for me because I have fought that issue so bad when I first started painting cars. I found the longer I let body filler, primer and paint sit before cutting with sand paper it solved my problems. Now maybe new technology in paints it’s resolved but I would rather not find out.

Thank you for the reply and GREAT information. I need to paint the hood and roof of my truck as the CC has worn away. No delamination that I can see. No build primer needed in my situation. Thanks!

@@VinylVillageGaragewhat’s the worst that could happen by waiting? Maybe more time spent sanding, but I’m sure you don’t want to do it over- as the saying goes about finding time to do something a second time when you didn’t do it right the first time. Great information to try to keep in my head when I get to the bodywork stage- or at the very minimum, I’ll know whose videos I can refer back to! Thanks, Jon.

I switched because the stuff I liked and wanted to use I could not get it shipped i tried a couple different vendors and waited a week each time to learn go fish and lost 3 weeks, Part of the reason I started working on my car again.

It sanded out ok. Would have been easier if the primer laid flat. Most of the sanding was leveling off the texture. Was I was told the polyester primer doesn’t flow so great and some texture is normal.

Wow, thanks!

Thanks for the info

Very cool like the 70 gto its on my wish list to own.

Body work isn’t my favorite because it just takes so long for me to get them right.

@VinylVillageGarage you are a professional my friend

The magnets are awesome!

It’s definitely time consuming. When I first start I am all in but after several days in the shop I am over it.

Thanks. This new linear block is my new favorite tool. I will be able to get the car better then I ever have

Exactly!

Well thank you I believe it does too

In areas that it hasn’t been sanded at all or very dark it’s a good idea to at least scuff the area and wiper with microfiber cloth.

Thanks!