Want to paint your car? Where to start and the steps for the best possible finish.
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- Want to repaint your car? No clue where to start or the process? No worries get a pen and paper and we will cover all the important steps to get the job done.
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1969 TransAm project Mockingbird
• 1969 TransAm project M...
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John, would you consider showing sanding a panel with the finer grit 400 and 600 grit sand papers and checking for sand scratches. Keep the videos coming👍
Yes, absolutely got the car all blocked to 220 grit yesterday need one more coat of high build primer. then that one I will sand it down and stop at 400 maybe 600
Another great video! Thanks for everything you do for us garage geeks.
Garage geeks, love it!
Hope you are making videos of the high school restoration project being painted in black. Love the videos!
Yup, it will have its own videos. I have been getting the body work done.
Thank you for taking your time on explaining the steps brother thank you very much because it will be the first time I am going to use epoxy primer to seal up a car and then move to the painting process I always did things the old school way and it doesn't hurt to try different things thanks again
No problem 👍
Jon,
I know that "flowcoat" is the new hip term on UA-cam...but I challenge you to make that as flat and clean as possible with your base/clear, THEN wet sand the complete car with 1200, and re-clear. Then sand and buff starting with 2000, then 3000. Buff and polish.
I've done it several times. It's more work, and not as "hip/buzzworthy" but you will be able to shave in the finish.
Good to know. I will probably end up doing some cutting and buffing when done. No way can I paint an entire car without blemishes
Jon, thanks for all the detailed information! I think Bob Ross may have to share the "Happy Painter" title with you! Keep up the good work. God bless
I am so going to get me an Afro and paint my happy little car. 😎
Great information! I'm looking forward to the final paint videos.
Coming soon! Finally got my high build primer 4 weeks late!!
Never knew that about sealer! Thanks
Right on!
This is a million dollar paint job!
thanks. should have a great finish when done and durable too.
Excellent information John!! You are the man!!!👍🏽👊🏽
I appreciate that!
I was told by a painter that factory paint is the best primer. Thank you Jon for such a great video!
It really is! As long as there isn’t any rust issues you can sand off the top layers and build on it.
Boom. It would be cool to see you physically blocking some panels. Love the tips. Thanks
You got it! I Working on that video as we speak. I had a priming video but lost the footage unfortunately 😢.
Very helpful stuff. The water on the floor changing the humidity makes sense. Thanks for sharing the steps and your personal preferences.
Glad it was helpful!
Oh yes I needed this video today brother!!!!!!
I get one right now and then.
Very good information! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and techniques!
My pleasure!
Great content....thanks for the tips... looking forward to seeing more....🔧🔧👍
More to come!
So exciting!!! 😮
yes indeed
Thanks for the information! Great tips to get my 442 paint done with good results. I think maybe same paint code as Mockingbird. 69 GM Cameo White? Looking forward to paint video!
yup same color as the mockingbird
Shoot, and here I was hoping to learn how to paint my DeLorean 😂
It’s magical and top secret
I’ve painted all my cars and never had issues. after my 67 Tempest wagon got hit and it was repainted by a body shop (insurance) it’s cracked and lifted everywhere. I’ll patch paint it because it’s single stage this way I don’t have another car in pieces..lol.
I feel your pain. Less then stellar repairs by a “professional” are disappointing had that happen enough it motivated me to give it a shot. Figured I could that good of not better plus have fun while giving it a go.
Also moisture from water being put on the floor can get trapped in the paint as your painting the vehicle
Exactly! What I was told too and experienced years ago. The why I don’t do it.
So you say body work is not your favorite and then you do two cars at one time.😂😂😂
Yup I don’t like body work. Having a HUGE issue with paint delivery. Lost 3 weeks so i figured would use that time to get back onto my car for a bit. Now both are waiting on primer 🤷♂️
😂
What products you use
Used to be only PPG but I can’t afford them all the way now. I use transtar epoxy primer, evercoat 4:1 high build then seal it with the epoxy to finish it off with PPG DBU base and 2042 clear.
What engine is in Black Betty?
494 Pontiac. Stroked 455, should be a lot of fun to drive. I also swapped it to a 4 spd hopefully it stays together. But if it lets go going upgrade to tko 5 spd
💪😎
thanks
I promise you if you blast your car you have no choice but to acid etch the metal if you don't the paint will come back off we just redid a 70 Chevelle because of that
Interesting, what media did you use? If it was soda blasted I could see it having adhesion issues. Crushed coal slag is what I use and it leaves the surface coarse to the touch.
@VinylVillageGarage glass bead is what we used and the paint still bubbled in spots
@@shaunjeffries3136 thanks for getting back to me. I might have to get some glass bean and do some experimenting.
👍👍👍👍🇺🇲🇺🇲
thank you
Jon,
I know that "flowcoat" is the new hip term on UA-cam...but I challenge you to make that as flat and clean as possible with your base/clear, THEN wet sand the complete car with 1200, and re-clear. Then sand again starting with 2000, then 3000. Buff and polish.
I've done it several times. It's more work, and not as "hip/buzzworthy" but you will be able to shave in the finish.
lol. I know I can’t. I was thinking a flow coat would expedite the cutting and buffing process and maybe make it where I can start sanding at like 1,000 instead of 600-800. I think it would make it easier to buff when done. I have yet to perfect the buffing process and get all the marks out.
@@VinylVillageGarage
Not sure why I have a double comment. I did see your buffing video on the Great Pumpkin...and thought your starting point was a bit aggressive, especially for today's clears. If I were going that hard to get flat, I would definitely recoat. And then sand with much finer grits to buff for gloss.