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Sorry Paul my wife bought two Bachman class 20’s but I’ve dozens of old cheap locos 😊 you’ve some bargains there regards Fred

Nice to see this Paul , yes I’m still here and watching me personally I’m a dc dinosaur but guilty of having to new class 20’s courtesy of my wife 😊 regards Fred ps I run mine with old records playing in the background 😊

I’m with you on the Lima mk1s brother. They look just fine and they *work*! Don’t chuck themselves off the track, uncouple themselves or break. They look the biz behind a blue 37.

Hi Paul, I've built a small layout in my 10' x 6' shed. I only run 4 locos and they are all dcc sound fitted and I love them because of the sound and the slow speed control. They are all diesels, the most expensive cost £130, the cheapest £70. I like arseing around trying to program CVs to get them to run how I want them to run. This adds more expense, between £70 - £150 depending on which programming device you buy. As for DCC control I use NCE Powercab, price between £200-£250 . Non sound decoders I used DCC Concepts Zen blue, about £30 each. So my advice would be if you decide to use DCC make sure you have deep pockets. I've realised that although DCC enables me to run multiple locos at the same time I don't run more then 2 at a time mainly because I've not got a large enough layout to do it. I definitely dont regret using DCC but money is definitely a concern especially if you want to DCC 50 locos. Hope this helps, if you're not sure don't do it. Cheers for spending the time to make videos I do enjoy watching. All the best, kevin

Mm i would say do it now, i started with dc, and just started converting into dcc sound and wish i started in the beginning with dcc. For the chips ive got Few from Rails of Sheffield at around 20 pounds a chip, they are direct connectipn so if you dont have much room then you dont have a extra wires and ive nevwr head an issue with them, gor both 8 pin and 21 pin versions. Sound or not, really down to your own pref and budget. All mine are just the decoder fitted and have been for a long time, and have juat started converting too sound at 150 pounds a chip so its not a cheap route. Definitely dcc ao you can have mutiple locos running without having roo isolate parts of the layout, but sound is alqays going too be alot more expensive. If your looking for controllers then i uae JMRI and Dcc+ which ia brillant but ita not plug and play sort of style but there is loads of documents online about it. Its called DCC Ex, and you build the command atation youraelf for arouns 40 quid for the compounts of Amazon. Heres a link too there aite. dcc-ex.com/begin/what-to-know.html#gsc.tab=0. You can also google it. Ive uaed it forbabyear and love it.

I started during lock down and as far as I was concerned a DCC layout was a no brainer . Fours years and 60 odd locos later I'm seriously considering adding a DC only loop to my layout. There are a lot of locos I like that are not DCC ready and even some of the so called DCC ready locos need major surgery to enable the decoder to fit in the body. Add to to that every loco you buy you'll incur £20 plus cost to the individual loco. The decoders also have a nasty habit of burning out when the motor short circuits.. I have at least 6 burnt out decoders or over a £100 worth. So there is pros and cons ,but the main thing to consider is DCC is a lot more expensive.

For what it's worth, here are my thoughts mate. DCC - I would go 8 pin and consider using sockets rather than direct hard wiring a chip. I say this because if you are new to DCC it will allow easier chip upgrading (to a certain level) in due course. You can also use the socket to bypass DCC and return DC operation should you wish. Sound - If you have 50 odd locos on a layout, especially in a smaller railway room, the noise will be lost and become annoying. I would sound fit your favourite 5 locos and leave the rest silent. Ebay - You are quite right. Bargains to be had and, as you say, look at photos, read descriptions and if you are still not sure use the Ebay messaging system to ask the seller a direct question. These messages can then be viewed by Ebay if a dispute arises. Good luck with your project

Some nice ideas, looking forward to seeing the results

Could put the H0 lunch coach or whatever in background for a slight forced perspective effect.

Have you looked at DCC-EX for your controller? You can build a fully functioning DCC controller relatively cheaply and run it from a computer, instead of buying an expensive readymade one. No flashy case, but you can hide it under the layout.

Hornby Dublo 3 rail the best the strongest the long lasting the most powerful etc

You dont need to sound chip every locomotive. One 37 or one class 50 etc.

okay, if I had the money, I'd go full DCC with the best options out there and I'd make sure the whole system was future proof and I'd hook it into a computer system. Now, I don't have the money, nor a layout worth putting into DCC. I have read and listened to so many people complain about locos not working and then only to find out that the chip, or sound chip is the cause of the issue. I'm assuming you'll build a multi-level layout with four mainline tracks, TMD, branchline and other options for shunting and running. If this is the option you are looking into, then I think DCC will be your idea of model railways. I hadn't realised that you did not have a layout at present, and I've been buying my rolling stock from eBay these last few months, ready for the build. And, the build starts this week, well, the removal of items out of the spare room ready for construction at the weekend. Whatever you go for, the very best of luck, and i can't wait to see your layout up and running. Ps, make sure you have at least two branchline stations 👍

I've just started building my first proper layout and have decided to go to DCC. I was pretty much set on the NCE powercab, but after speaking to a trader at the Silver Fox exhibition in Milton Keynes at the weekend and, having seen them being used at another small exhibition in Wellingborough a couple of weeks prior to that, have just ordered a Digitrax DCS52. The trader I spoke to in MK stocks both NCE and Digitrax amongst others, but he recommended the Digitrax for its superior current overload protection and higher output (3 amps, rather than 1.5 of the powercab). I've ordered it from Coastal DCC, who are currently doing them for £200 plus delivery. I had considered buying something cheaper just to get started (secondhand) Hornby Select or Roco Multimaus), but the Digitrax does everything I'm likely to want in the foreseeable future and also be expsnded at a later date, so I came to the conclusion that it'd be better just to spend a bit more from the outset.

Hi Paul , this sounds crazy but I have 4 dcc running tracks plus sidings and fiddle yard. But I also have 2 separate inner dc tracks I run my hold stock which I consider not good enough to convert. As for converting that to me would be how long before you build your layout in 5 years who knows what will be out there so do the body work to your liking then work out your options later or do what I’ve done on mine, it’s your layout your way . Phil

I used to be a naysayer.. now I love DCC and believe it to be the future; very efficient and simple, with everything being done on one controller. NCE powercab is the industry standard for controllers but can be hard to find being an American product. For beginners, personally I like Hornby’s Elite: their analogue controllers are woeful but the Elite has everything you need and offers accessibility thanks to its little LCD screen. I only have a little Bachmann EZ Command+, but my local shop - where I do any programming - uses an Elite and has it has served them well for many years. Lais chips are the cheapest available and can be had from the far east for just over a tenner. Their problems are blown out of proportion in my opinion, they fail just as much as any other chip does - blowing a decoder is inevitable! Lais also offer a 2amp peak decoder which is ideal for your older locos and none of the examples I’ve fitted have gone pop yet. DCC concepts’ own chips - the Zen and AEModel ranges - are marvellous. Hornby and Bachmann chips are good, if a bit redundant nowadays. Sound I’d only recommend in your very favourite locos. Use them as ambience on your layout, at low volume as they tick over in the platform - when you have a bunch of the things running at once, at full volume, it gets seriously annoying.. exhibitors take note!

@zivadivathedog9392 would you mi8nd re posting your comment, I see part of it on my notification bell but dont see it below. You were kindly giving advice but I cant see it all.

I don't buy new for two reasons : one can not afford it two the quality control is not always there on some of items. Prices do put off a lot of people joining the hobby even second hand pricing has gone insane I try to buy from house clearances or even struck lucky in charity shops my layout is a right old mix but it's got character . Lima's Class 20 is good or the much older tooled Bachmann Class 20 but only at the right price.

Your Bo-Bo is an Mehano model of an Alco RS3. The real ones were built by The American Locomotive Company in the early 1950s and were used all of the Americas . I got one in SNCF livery in a train set in the 1980s. It ran far better than any Hornby locos I had at the time.

Well done not being tempted down the “Brand New” Route, there is so much Hype About Digital This & Release Date for that, when the Market place is Already Awash with Great Kit Just Ready to be Brought Back To Life. I’ve only been in the Hobby 5 yrs and I have amassed enough Stock to keep an 8x4 interesting every day of the Week and my Limit for decent Locos is £60 - My last Class 20 purchase was a dc Lima DRS (early logo) which didn’t look like it had ever been out the Box for 38 quid and you could still knock me over with a 🪶 😂 - for coupling up fixed Rakes I would usually would just change the Outer ends, or recently I’ve seen folks using Zip ties, cut to the desired length, drilled and Screwed - I think it’s the Flexibility of the material that makes it work, tho I havnt tried it myself yet. Great Channel Brother - First time caller - Liked and Scribed 👍🏻

Take a look at Hunt`s Couplings .They do ones to replace the D couplings . West Hill Wagon Works . They have every think you ever need .

I'm trying out Sprat and Winkle couplings on my freight wagons - I bought a couple of sheets in brass from Wizard models and they weren't expensive. They take a bit of fettling (some plasticard mounts) and they work well, and look great. Those fish vans (in the 60s) were attached to anything, even some DMUs coming out of Grimsby.

firstly, many thanks for the sub. now, eBay, all of my 'new' running stock is from there, apart from two new purchases. I've only had one poor loco from the 2nd hand market and that was from Hattons, I got it repaired and it runs fine. I can do minor servicing, but stripping a loco down for the fiddly bits I'm bad at. But I'll learn. I clean every piece of kit I buy and when you consider some of these items are 60 years old, they look very good. Painting, I airbrush most paint jobs when required, although adding lines is not something I can do with shaking hands.

Thanks Paul, well explained - both the wheels and the painting!

Chambs123 - aka Johns Amazing Trains. A quick google search for his name will reveal where he is currently. Nice to see someone taking a lot of Tri-ang stuff and hauling it into the 21st century. So much of it is forgotten and it’s everywhere. May as do something with the stuff!

Regarding Graham and any other modeller for that matter, I do wish they'd share more of their other hobbies especially where building and painting come in. I watch other modelling channels and the ideas and information come in handy with model railways

yes, I learnt the hard way regarding the pliers problem. I now have a flatbed minus a bogie. Regarding the fitting of wheels, I ended up fitting them using platikard, glued to one side and then fitted the wheels. Worked fine and the wagons run - great video

I know what you mean👍

Green coaches are very 1960's, so no need to repaint. They look like tri ang rather than Lima, but there is nothing wrong with Lima stock.

I always wonder how people can do UA-cam videos a month and have a family i cant. I realy want to see how you work on a Flying Scotsman. But these Siphon waggons are good enough. If I was going to do them for my seld I would like to put the detail on all the coaches ends.

Me Hornbee is busted too. There aint nutin I can do.

Paul, Well done for tackling a Lima model and seeing how it can be improved. I like the Lima models and with a little effort can pass as something worth alot more than the original model. But be prepared - this is a bit of a rabbit hole .... how far do you go in time and money, to create something which is already in RTR form? The Accurascale model is a fantastic model (and I am not a GWR modeller!). If you are not inclined to spend £50-£60 on a model, then at least take advantage of their website photos. There are some detailed shots of the underframe which includes the correct arrangement of the emergency equipment boxes, double vacuum cylinders and the location of the external brake levers. There were no brake wheels on any of the full size photos I have seen. There is also inclusion of the dynamo which the Lima model lacks. The website also gives a detailed history of the vehicle including alot of the modifications made during its life. I would also take a look at the Dart castings website. There are replacements for the buffers (ref: 2330S GWR Coach buffers £5.90) - although the website is currently showing them temporarily out of stock. Failing that, I would go down the route @AllSortsOfStuff58 suggested, and file down rectangular section of plasti-card rod but with the addition of some filed down drawing pins! Finally, bogies. The Lima model uses BR1 castings which as you pointed out are not the best - free running yes - but not accurate for the vehicle. From what I can see the vehicle used 9 foot GWR single bolster plate/heavy bogies. Bachmann does a GWR bogie (ref: 379-444 - availalbe from TMC £12.33). The pack comes as a pair and includes wheels - but will need minor modification to cut away the footboards. Again, you can cut away the tiebar between the axle boxes of the Lima casting - and file and fettle to get something close to the GWR bogie - but the time/money element raises its head again. It would be great to see what you did in the end, and what compromises you made. Good luck!!!

By removing appurtances would it affect how the wagon looks? The 3’-0 view comes into play here, no point in creating work and possible damage if it doesn’t improve the view. You can add handles and rails etc that will improve how it looks but bear in mind when you lift them on and off the track tiny things tend to break . I have five or six blue Lima wagons, I will have a look. Good luck

They came out fantastic! No pain, no gain as they said. The Triang Dock Shunter is well tasty in that livery I must say. Well done.

great video, I would have liked to see some of the painting with the brushes, especially the mixing as that is always a bit of trial and error.

Did the motor come with worm attached?

Love it. Fictional...your railway and s**ff the rivet counters

Always challenging pressuring the bodies then finding the correct paint for the body material and finishing👍

New bushes? Brushes?

Great advice my friend, Sat a few cuss words and never give up. a true British spirit, enjoyable video. cheer's Tony.

Frustrating to say the least, well done for sticking with it

The Humbrol aerosols are the very definition of hit and miss; they’re either brilliant or downright awful, but mostly awful! I’m surprised they still make the stuff because the failure rates are through the roof. Had to gloss a Black 5 for a customer recently using the enamel spray.. I had run out of my preferred Mr Hobby. I puckered up every time I took a look at it between coats. Thankfully, no cloudy mist.

I found this channel, which if you arn't subscribed to might find it very interesting. ua-cam.com/video/0ZNbEMTDXuQ/v-deo.html

Hi Paul. it maybe basic information, but its useful information. and sometimes that all we need to get what we want out of our railways. cheer's for now Tony.

Great work on the re-vamped bridge. the thing is with bridges they come in various colours. i know it must be well finished by now. as long as your happy the finish. that's all that counts my friend. Tony.

I just had another Brain Fart. Drill out the porthole window in the corridor tender. Then, use Christal Clear (a product the Model aeroplane modellers use to glue on the canopys to the model) to represent the glass. This modification is extremely easy, but care must be taken to drill out the hole correctly.

I would recommend adding a Mainly Trains screw link coupling just for the front of the locomotive. A lump of real coal. And possibly a etched chassis. Thanks for the video. I have a scotsman which could do with some extra parts.this might be a project worth trying in future. Presently I have been super detailing a Hornby Jinty in much the same way OO Niel has detailed some of his GWR models. Oh I almost forgot to say add some break hoses and coach steam pipes.

Very useful. I also like to build stuff and detail locos and rolling stock.

Hi Paul, welcome back. Looking forward to your straight matter-of-fact approach. It's important we keep the cost of this great hobby down. Will be trying some of your tips. Cheers, Jim L

Nice video Paul thanks look forward to the next one 👍