Did you know Foster Yeoman imported an American Bo-Bo shunter (switcher) in 1980? Used at the Torr works in Somerset. Do a search for "Foster Yeoman SW 1001" and you'll find it. So, one idea is to refinish your AHM RS3 as a privately owned industrial loco. Just found your channel today and subbed. Lots of interesting stuff!
@peterjohnson4932 thanks for commenting and the sub. I have a side project in my head and I think the switcher could be the loco for it now you've mentioned it. Thinking about a little nod to british steel as the lackenby works, now closed, aren't far. They had specific locos in white and orange pushing the torpedo wagons around. Thanks mate, very helpful indeed. Ill sub back.
My husband dave is with u on the older ones rather than the new ones we also buy loads off smiths pre owned and fix them and the joy of seeing them run is great
I'm trying out Sprat and Winkle couplings on my freight wagons - I bought a couple of sheets in brass from Wizard models and they weren't expensive. They take a bit of fettling (some plasticard mounts) and they work well, and look great. Those fish vans (in the 60s) were attached to anything, even some DMUs coming out of Grimsby.
@little_britain thanks mate, appreciate the tip and the history, I had no idea they could be attached to dmus, cheers I do like to know about the models I work on.
I’m with you on the Lima mk1s brother. They look just fine and they *work*! Don’t chuck themselves off the track, uncouple themselves or break. They look the biz behind a blue 37.
I got a Lima and the older Bachmann class 20 for about 90 quid all up ( A$180 ) I'll have to repaint the Lima one and I'll also replace the motor but they are good enough for me!
Your Bo-Bo is an Mehano model of an Alco RS3. The real ones were built by The American Locomotive Company in the early 1950s and were used all of the Americas . I got one in SNCF livery in a train set in the 1980s. It ran far better than any Hornby locos I had at the time.
@OrSomeBricks it ran well at the show I bought it from. Currently dismantled and body and frame sitting in isopropyl to strip it. Really looking forward to seeing what I can do with it. Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
@@recycledmodelrailways8655 We had the locos that were very similar in New South Wales Australia and they entered service in 1951. Although Alco ours were built in Canada and were an American "switcher" design. Ours were A1A+A1A like a class 31 with an Alco 244 diesel engine giving 1600hp with a maximum speed of 75mph. The cab had to be altered to fit our loading gauge and it was cut down with the cab sides sloping inwards towards the roof. Delivered in green with central yellow stripe and numbered the 40 class 4001-4020 the first two 4001 and 4002 were painted in royal blue livery for the queen and duke of Edinburgh's visit in 1954. They hauled passenger and light freight trains and were withdrawn in 1971. 4001 survives and is operational in the royal blue livery she once wore. 4002 and 4006 were sold to the Robe River Iron Ore project in 1971 for construction trains and both have survived being preserved in Western Australia. Both were also converted to Co-Co wheel arrangement. The next class of loco was the 41 class from British Thompson Houston and looked like a big class 17 Clayton and like the Clayton's were a complete failure. That failure ensured that no British diesel manufacturer would ever again get a look in to supplying diesels in NSW with Alco GM and GE reigning supreme from then on to today. Your entry into the Common Market in 1973 and the ditching of Australia as your biggest overseas trading partner may have also had a bearing on it too. Other states had British built diesels but they too got rid of them in favour of US diesels. The railways of NSW in the steam era were once Beyer Peacock's biggest overseas customer.
I don't buy new for two reasons : one can not afford it two the quality control is not always there on some of items. Prices do put off a lot of people joining the hobby even second hand pricing has gone insane I try to buy from house clearances or even struck lucky in charity shops my layout is a right old mix but it's got character . Lima's Class 20 is good or the much older tooled Bachmann Class 20 but only at the right price.
@@recycledmodelrailways8655 Check them out you will be surprized at what they make. Like if you have short types of rolling stock like TTA Tankers they do a swivel ends so you dont pull the tankers over on coners .i have quite a few on my layout of all sorts of couplings if in doubt ring them . But the point of these magnets is to take your rolling stock on and off the layout easy..
firstly, many thanks for the sub. now, eBay, all of my 'new' running stock is from there, apart from two new purchases. I've only had one poor loco from the 2nd hand market and that was from Hattons, I got it repaired and it runs fine. I can do minor servicing, but stripping a loco down for the fiddly bits I'm bad at. But I'll learn. I clean every piece of kit I buy and when you consider some of these items are 60 years old, they look very good. Painting, I airbrush most paint jobs when required, although adding lines is not something I can do with shaking hands.
@bramelsheretan thanks for commenting. With regards stripping them down, I learnt from YT and having a go. I've done a few videos in the past on loco repairs, have a look, it may help. eBay I love, I can get bargains and it lowers the cost involved. If you subscribe to me I subscribe back, it's only right.
@@recycledmodelrailways8655 I've added you into play lists and will add you to my little blog. Any chance of some video of running shots of your layout?
Well done not being tempted down the “Brand New” Route, there is so much Hype About Digital This & Release Date for that, when the Market place is Already Awash with Great Kit Just Ready to be Brought Back To Life. I’ve only been in the Hobby 5 yrs and I have amassed enough Stock to keep an 8x4 interesting every day of the Week and my Limit for decent Locos is £60 - My last Class 20 purchase was a dc Lima DRS (early logo) which didn’t look like it had ever been out the Box for 38 quid and you could still knock me over with a 🪶 😂 - for coupling up fixed Rakes I would usually would just change the Outer ends, or recently I’ve seen folks using Zip ties, cut to the desired length, drilled and Screwed - I think it’s the Flexibility of the material that makes it work, tho I havnt tried it myself yet. Great Channel Brother - First time caller - Liked and Scribed 👍🏻
Subscribed mate, I totally agree with your little rant. And lucky you, living near to Peter's Spares, I've visited twice so far!!! I have done eBay buys, and 2nd sales and bought what ever I Like.. Continental stuff and LNER era with a bit of more modern, Mk2e coaches for me!! Your coupling problem, what about the magnetic couplings? It's your price limit? How about heat welding a pin into one buffer stock, and heat welding a brass nail with a flat bar drilled at each end captive on it. The bar just long enough to avoid buffer lock on a reverse curve. Drop the pin into the trailing bar.?
@@johnland7318 living so close to peters means you spend more money, I always end up buying more when I'm there. Doing a video shortly on Ebay buying. Gave up on couplings of my own and going to magnetic, I was trying to be clever, didn't work. Thanks for commenting and the sub. Paul
Did you know Foster Yeoman imported an American Bo-Bo shunter (switcher) in 1980? Used at the Torr works in Somerset. Do a search for "Foster Yeoman SW 1001" and you'll find it.
So, one idea is to refinish your AHM RS3 as a privately owned industrial loco.
Just found your channel today and subbed. Lots of interesting stuff!
@peterjohnson4932 thanks for commenting and the sub. I have a side project in my head and I think the switcher could be the loco for it now you've mentioned it. Thinking about a little nod to british steel as the lackenby works, now closed, aren't far. They had specific locos in white and orange pushing the torpedo wagons around. Thanks mate, very helpful indeed. Ill sub back.
My husband dave is with u on the older ones rather than the new ones we also buy loads off smiths pre owned and fix them and the joy of seeing them run is great
@carolinerogers1057 couldn't agree more caroline,, you have the pleasure of knowing you put effort in to get it looking and running well.
Paul
I'm trying out Sprat and Winkle couplings on my freight wagons - I bought a couple of sheets in brass from Wizard models and they weren't expensive. They take a bit of fettling (some plasticard mounts) and they work well, and look great. Those fish vans (in the 60s) were attached to anything, even some DMUs coming out of Grimsby.
@little_britain thanks mate, appreciate the tip and the history, I had no idea they could be attached to dmus, cheers I do like to know about the models I work on.
I’m with you on the Lima mk1s brother. They look just fine and they *work*! Don’t chuck themselves off the track, uncouple themselves or break. They look the biz behind a blue 37.
@@Planestrains-d5e couldn't agree more, nothing wrong with lima stuff at all.
I got a Lima and the older Bachmann class 20 for about 90 quid all up ( A$180 )
I'll have to repaint the Lima one and I'll also replace the motor but they are good enough for me!
@@ausfoodgarden bargains to be had if we look. Well done getting a bachman with the lima for £90 mate.
Your Bo-Bo is an Mehano model of an Alco RS3. The real ones were built by The American Locomotive Company in the early 1950s and were used all of the Americas . I got one in SNCF livery in a train set in the 1980s. It ran far better than any Hornby locos I had at the time.
@OrSomeBricks it ran well at the show I bought it from. Currently dismantled and body and frame sitting in isopropyl to strip it. Really looking forward to seeing what I can do with it. Thanks for the info, much appreciated.
@@recycledmodelrailways8655 We had the locos that were very similar in New South Wales Australia and they entered service in 1951. Although Alco ours were built in Canada and were an American "switcher" design. Ours were A1A+A1A like a class 31 with an Alco 244 diesel engine giving 1600hp with a maximum speed of 75mph. The cab had to be altered to fit our loading gauge and it was cut down with the cab sides sloping inwards towards the roof. Delivered in green with central yellow stripe and numbered the 40 class 4001-4020 the first two 4001 and 4002 were painted in royal blue livery for the queen and duke of Edinburgh's visit in 1954. They hauled passenger and light freight trains and were withdrawn in 1971. 4001 survives and is operational in the royal blue livery she once wore. 4002 and 4006 were sold to the Robe River Iron Ore project in 1971 for construction trains and both have survived being preserved in Western Australia. Both were also converted to Co-Co wheel arrangement.
The next class of loco was the 41 class from British Thompson Houston and looked like a big class 17 Clayton and like the Clayton's were a complete failure. That failure ensured that no British diesel manufacturer would ever again get a look in to supplying diesels in NSW with Alco GM and GE reigning supreme from then on to today. Your entry into the Common Market in 1973 and the ditching of Australia as your biggest overseas trading partner may have also had a bearing on it too. Other states had British built diesels but they too got rid of them in favour of US diesels. The railways of NSW in the steam era were once Beyer Peacock's biggest overseas customer.
They do run better, I got one from Tynemouth sta, in SNCF colours 4 axle drive, the couplings have to be changed for secure haulage!!
@@johnland7318 going to nemesis and magnetics
Paul
I don't buy new for two reasons : one can not afford it two the quality control is not always there on some of items. Prices do put off a lot of people joining the hobby even second hand pricing has gone insane I try to buy from house clearances or even struck lucky in charity shops my layout is a right old mix but it's got character . Lima's Class 20 is good or the much older tooled Bachmann Class 20 but only at the right price.
@@petercole2092 I agree with all your points Peter. I'd rather rescue the old stuff and breathe new life into it. Thanks for commenting mate.
Take a look at Hunt`s Couplings .They do ones to replace the D couplings .
West Hill Wagon Works . They have every think you ever need .
@dragon-junction-MK2 thanks mate, I thought it was all nem stuff on there.
@@recycledmodelrailways8655 Check them out you will be surprized at what they make. Like if you have short types of rolling stock like TTA Tankers they do a swivel ends so you dont pull the tankers over on coners .i have quite a few on my layout of all sorts of couplings if in doubt ring them .
But the point of these magnets is to take your rolling stock on and off the layout easy..
Sorry Paul my wife bought two Bachman class 20’s but I’ve dozens of old cheap locos 😊 you’ve some bargains there regards Fred
@FredWilbury go on rub it in lol, I may get lucky at xmas mate.
@@recycledmodelrailways8655 it was our 50th anniversary 😅
firstly, many thanks for the sub.
now, eBay, all of my 'new' running stock is from there, apart from two new purchases. I've only had one poor loco from the 2nd hand market and that was from Hattons, I got it repaired and it runs fine.
I can do minor servicing, but stripping a loco down for the fiddly bits I'm bad at. But I'll learn.
I clean every piece of kit I buy and when you consider some of these items are 60 years old, they look very good. Painting, I airbrush most paint jobs when required, although adding lines is not something I can do with shaking hands.
@bramelsheretan thanks for commenting. With regards stripping them down, I learnt from YT and having a go. I've done a few videos in the past on loco repairs, have a look, it may help. eBay I love, I can get bargains and it lowers the cost involved. If you subscribe to me I subscribe back, it's only right.
@@recycledmodelrailways8655 I've added you into play lists and will add you to my little blog. Any chance of some video of running shots of your layout?
@@bramelsheretan cheers mate
I believe that everyone of us has something to share to the hobby, and I like people to have a laugh when I make a mistake
@AllSortsOfStuff58 correct, still got 5 kids at home.
Did you already replace the battery in your smoke alarm? 👲🏻🔥
@@macnavi hard wired mate.
@@recycledmodelrailways8655 Something is beeping. It sounds like a smoke detector.
Hornby Dublo 3 rail the best the strongest the long lasting the most powerful etc
@@bertiewooster3326 that's what I had as a kid in the 70s, and one of the locks was a class 20. Probably why I still like them.
Well done not being tempted down the “Brand New” Route, there is so much Hype About Digital This & Release Date for that, when the Market place is Already Awash with Great Kit Just Ready to be Brought Back To Life. I’ve only been in the Hobby 5 yrs and I have amassed enough Stock to keep an 8x4 interesting every day of the Week and my Limit for decent Locos is £60 - My last Class 20 purchase was a dc Lima DRS (early logo) which didn’t look like it had ever been out the Box for 38 quid and you could still knock me over with a 🪶 😂 - for coupling up fixed Rakes I would usually would just change the Outer ends, or recently I’ve seen folks using Zip ties, cut to the desired length, drilled and Screwed - I think it’s the Flexibility of the material that makes it work, tho I havnt tried it myself yet. Great Channel Brother - First time caller - Liked and Scribed 👍🏻
@donniblanco5239 thank you very much for your comments, liking the zip ties idea, going to give that a go. I'll sub back.
Subscribed mate, I totally agree with your little rant. And lucky you, living near to Peter's Spares, I've visited twice so far!!!
I have done eBay buys, and 2nd sales and bought what ever I Like.. Continental stuff and LNER era with a bit of more modern, Mk2e coaches for me!!
Your coupling problem, what about the magnetic couplings? It's your price limit?
How about heat welding a pin into one buffer stock, and heat welding a brass nail with a flat bar drilled at each end captive on it. The bar just long enough to avoid buffer lock on a reverse curve. Drop the pin into the trailing bar.?
@@johnland7318 living so close to peters means you spend more money, I always end up buying more when I'm there. Doing a video shortly on Ebay buying. Gave up on couplings of my own and going to magnetic, I was trying to be clever, didn't work. Thanks for commenting and the sub.
Paul