Відео

My AMS and AMS lite can auto switch or manually switch when the filament runs out.

But it is chinese.... :( That alone is for me an extra negative for Bambu

overprized gadget unless you run a print farm, and oh boy the cost for those onetime use tube pieces. I certainly never piled up any noteworthy amount of filament ... runout sensor and inprint replacing is not an issues for the vaste majority of prints (my bambulab isnt creating a gap like shown) and one also has countless small prints (clamps, inserts etc) to use the leftovers. And the little which actually is left over lands in a 20$ 3d print pen which are far more versatile in its uses as a repair tool, part connector and toy. Not to forget that compared to the purge and support waste these small filament ending losses are laughable, just imagine the pile you would need before the cost for such a connector is justified. And here is the kicker, if you rly need it you can connect filament with that 20$ 3d pen as well or look up the tiny DIY weld setup made from a piece of teflon tube and spring/foil. Long story short, stop promoting e-waste like those gadgets ... they are neither economical nor green.

Hi Ken. How many hours do you have so far with chamber heater at 50-60c? I'm having to replace my X-Y steppers after about 1000 hrs. The stepper mfg told me the steppers are rated at 50c continuous usage but once you get to 55 & 60 they will start to degrade. Something to look into. Love your channel Ken!

Hmmm Now you have my attention I will definitely have to put the SUNLU Filament connector on my Christmas wish list and that spiffy filament transfer contraption on my to build list. Thank you for sharing your time and these useful devices. Happy printing.

Thank you Rist Innovations for choosing my GEN2 drawer system for your project. Your monitor stand turned out great, very cool use case 👍

chris borge is just amazing the dude makes machines i never thought you could make with 3d printing

Awesome bro thanks! im getting one cuz of you

Hi Fellow 3d guys, I have a project that requires human flesh tone. I purchased on amazon from a company that said they sold skin flesh tone, and this is what I got. I consider my hand to be flesh tone, what they sent me was some kind of ugly beige. If my skin was that beige color, I would probably have to go to the hospital really quick for a transfusion. Can someone help me find a pla filament that is close to the color of my hand??? Thank you so much for your help. (sorry, I could not add pic that shows my hand. Any white boy hand will do 😜)

So, where do I find the links to the models? (<- joke)

what would have been a good touch is to have labled each slot knowing from cutting my own hair i have to look at every single one to find the size i need every time but that is something she can add with a marker i guess but for a better product for ppl to want to buy would be a good touch and my sis is a professional hair stylus and ill have to see if its something she would like to use

Oh man, the old man content is a funny insight into the older generation and how TV and movies were made. It’s kind of cringey, but not in a bad way. It’s a refreshing style compared to the stuff nowadays, which is just as lame but with a more brain-dead approach than the old-school commercial-styled performances, its also kinda the porn style of acting lol at a few moments i got that vibe of what it was gona turn in to out know where with this acting lol not hating at all by the way

Let me know which is your favorite 3D printed desk accessory from the video. Also, do you have a favorite desk accessory I didn't mention? Tell me about that too!

Man houd je handen stil

How do you figure out circumference of coned objects such as your blue glass?

Have anyone found a hydrometer that fits and support zigbee. Would really love to have info about my AMS in HomeAssistant

Thank you for the innovation and design of the light bar. Im printing it now as we speak. Question though...are you running the light strip all the way around, and if so, what are you doing in the corners? I saw the strip was cut at the corner so did you solder extension wires? You went onto showcasing the remote and light levels without showing the whole results of the light mounting. Thanks for all you do!

Thank you so much ! You are amazing

Cool design. Can you please share a closer look at the pivot joints? Trying to figure out how you made the 45 degree corner pivot. Thank you.

Hey just asking does it only use PLA material or can we use others to?

Thank you for your efforts to make this important video

I would like to get files from USSA but I have questions about the building process and don’t get any answers to the inquiry I have sent through the contact form on the website: when buying the files, are there any information provided regarding the hardware required to put everything together?

Hi, I am using a pro kit and recently had a project to engrave a Yeti 40 oz tumbler with a handle, the handle is not removable. Understanding that I would not be able to do a full rotation due to the handle I designed the artwork for only a small portion of the tumbler. To engrave on the side of the tumbler the handle needed to be located at an angle out to the side at some point either side of horizontal, this presented an issue where gravity took over and the handle always wanted to drop to the bottom not allowing me to position the tumbler in the correct position for the engrave. Have you experienced a similar issue when using the Rotary chuck attachement. I also have a set of Creality rotary rollers which I did the project on, the stiction in the drive mechanism prevented gravity taking over.

3d printer vs router vs laser ??? All totally 3 different devices. Non mentioned all are cnc - computer numerical controll... first 10 second off it 2 miss-conceptions. I'll skip rest. Thanks

how high from the objects in the rotary for the laser height what is used to measure that distance ?

Great video.... Have you built one for the Bambu A1? Can the A1 MINI parts be remixed to fit the A1?

Thanks for the video,,,,, I really like your rack made for the A1 with T Slot Aluminum Extrusion Linear Rail.... and mounting the AMS up on top. This would be much more stable and less vibration design. I noticed some printed parts poop shoot and some king of mounting parts (in blue filament). Do you have more information on your A1 setup? I just received my A1 and it's not setup yet. Ant help and/or direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Watching this before I buy one... god video !

Nice information. My P1s will be ordered soon and some of these will definitely be done. Thank you.

I’m finding the kreg mini jig isn’t cutting big enough holes, the screws stick out. Not sure if it’s the jig or possibly a dull drill bit.

Real nice video. Also that you wore safety glasses too! 👍

Have you ordered a Prusa yet?

Hi Ken, came across your video today. Just want to say your videos are very well put together and I like how you credit other authors throughout. Keep up the great work, very professional!

To be honest, this thing simply works. It needs a bit of gentle massaging when welding but I had maybe two mishaps and that's it. I have an AMS which will switch to the next spool but weld together some leftovers to create some wacky colors ... One thing I did found though, make sure that your filaments are really dry and I rather use a 60° cut over a 45° cut to maximise the welding area. Thanks for the vid!

Very strange premiss for this video? Decide which tool to buy for the woodworking workshop from "bang for the buck". Let me try to decide what to buy for my workshop: a hammer, a saw or a planer 🤔 oh, that's an easy choice, I checke bang for the buck. My 5 cent: go for a CNC router.

Disagree with score #1. XY design is not faster, both X and Y fight against the weight of the head and make a lot of vibration, while Prusa design split most usely X and Y to two different components X fights with the head weight and Y fights with the bed weight which makes it less noisy and actually faster. I have both x1c and mk4s and checked many stl files printing time and prusa always wins!

Good ideas, but the recorded sound (unfiltered plosives) is very tiring after a while.

For tapered objects, wouldn't it had been easier for them to have an adjustable leg at the far end to raise and lower the rotary instead of putting a shim object there?? That's what i done and it works great.

More cameos by Chef Luigi!

So... basically your scoring system of 1-5 is based on how you feel emotionally and what you prefer and not quantitative at all to help others gain any new insights on making their decision of which printer to buy; this becomes more obvious as you seem to favor the X1C with higher points and the MK4 with much lower points, showing that you have a favorable bias towards the X1C and not comparing the two equally. Then you mention having purchased the MK4, but after seeing the X1C in action at your buddy's shop, you decided to cancel your MK4 order and purchase the X1C, without testing out the MK4 or seeing it in action like the X1C. While I don't "hate" the X1C or consider it to be better or worse than the MK4, there certainly are a lot of differences between each one more so than the other. Things like how you're limited to using wifi and not have an ethernet jack, making the connection less reliable (like you complaining of slow wifi); Or how in order to use the printer wirelessly, all of your content including the g-code (and whatever intellectual property that may be contained in those prints) will end up going to Bambu's servers, before being sent back to your printer whereas with MK4 your files stay within your network strictly from your computer to the printer. So what's going to happen when you're running a business and need to rely on your printers but can't because Bambu or the cloud provider they're using happens to be having an outage? Or you spend a lot of time and effort crafting a certain design, only to have Bambu's servers get hacked and your plans leaked or worse, Bambu will sell your designs to the highest bidder under the table like how ISP's may sell your internet history to advertisers. For what it's worth, it really seems like you're advertising for Bambu instead of providing an actual and unbiased review between the two. So much so, at the end of the video I actually expanded the description and carefully reviewed it 2-3 times looking for your affiliate link to Bambu's website. And it's unfortunate that I ended up spending 17 minutes for your biased "review", only to still go with the X1C, meanwhile you clearly didn't do your research to review the two products sufficiently to make a good review. I clicked on your video to help me make a decision on which printer to buy. 17 minutes later and with the review being so poor quality I'm still in the same place I was. Honestly there are so many things that I could pick apart from your review, but this comment is already long enough and I don't know if you'll ever even see/read this.

Bambu Labs is to 3D printing what DJI is to drones only DJI had a lot more problems with their first Phantom. But I bet Bambu labs follows the same DJI trajectory with ever better models and expansion into the industrial printers like DJI did. The real question is will Prusa survive, not Bambu Labs.

Great video, but please tone down the transition sound effect. It is way too loud.

Thumbs up from a fellow French cleater!

With coupons floating around I got the Q1 Pro for $385, The P1S was going to run me almost $670. This was a no brainer Q1 Pro purchase being it's a more open ecosystem running klipper. You obviously miss out on an AMS but I was okay with that. The first things I printed was a stronger spool holder (PETG) and a carbon filter box (ABS). I love this thing.

I was just using my Sunlu.. who’s reading my mind?

La realidad es que todavía no podemos hablar de la fiabilidad de Bambu Lab a largo plazo, en cambio, para Prusa es uno de sus argumentos de venta. Depende de las necesidades de cada usuario, yo necesito repetir la impresión de algunas piezas una y otra vez 24/7… y con una primera capa perfecta, y que además cuando llegue el día del apocalipsis siga imprimiendo. Yo uso Prusa MK4S sin dudarlo.

I have your exact same set up now officially and I’m having a hard time figuring out which cable you used cable connection for the engraver. I have a Creality falcon 2 22W as well with the exact same camera set up. Tried to do the paper line cut and it’s still not communicating to the engraver

I never comment on videos but u are speaking very clear, thank you! I am writing this comment at the 3rd minute of the video.