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You just go to their website and there is a link to reserve. www.bigsurcamp.com/rv-sites

Great question, and no, I've never had that issue.

And we live in Northwest Arkansas where the temperatures get up near 100° every summer

Thanks, the one I have does. May have to try the one you're using.

Hey! Northwest Arkansas - Bentonville is the center of all of the trails. Everything from flow trails to single track and everything in between! They have put tens of millions of dollars into the trails with four trail design companies having crews here. When you get close to downtown Bentonville, there are mountain bikers all over the place. Slaughter Pen and Coler are two of the major trail hubs. Both have some really nice downhill runs.

Also, the trails are collectively known as Oz Trails (reference to the Ozark mountains)

Hey thank you! I appreciate it! We actually started with the walls. I used 1/8" birch plywood and I inserted a few rivnuts into the walls. The panels just screw into them... very low-tech. We bought fabric from Joannes and I watched a couple of videos on how to cut it. Used 3M spray glue and it worked prettywell, but they look pretty rough right now from hauling lots of stuff in the van. Planning to re-cover them or have an upholstery shop do that. They sit just inside the Moab LT, so you can remove them without touching the LT. I had to split the job into upper and lower panels b/c of the plywood size. Let me know if you have any other questions! Good luck!

Thanks man!! Heck yeah - that would be awesome!! Give me a shout when you can get up this way! For anyone reading this, go check out @arkieoutdoors and sub! Joe is an awesome dude with great vids!

Hey, boy I'm not really sure. I may have missed it if you didn't see it in the video. We are traveling so I kind of threw that together really quickly. Hopefully it's in there somewhere!

I'm not sure. I would recommend just comparing the specs between the 6000 and 3000 to see how many amps/watts it can handle. Obviously you would have half the runtime, but if you use solar panels and alternator charging, you could probably get a few hours of run time per day while you're driving

Hey, that's odd! All I did was hold mine for eight seconds and it did the trick. I would recommend reaching out to the manufacturer and see what they say.

I honestly can't remember… Next time I climb up there I will take a look and see

Don't worry about it. I'll figure it out. Thanks for the video.

Thank you! Man that was an incredible thing to see!!

Awesome! Glad it was useful!

Hey thank you! The brackets for the actual RTT are the ones that came with the RTT. They simply clamp onto the Alucab crossbars. You can see it briefly at the 0:44 mark in the video. It really worked great! I only clamped the front and rear crossbars and the middle two crossbars are there just for support

Just be aware that sometimes the AC unit will trip the inverter and you'll have to reset it by just pushing the inverter button. This tends to happen when the temperatures are really warm. It probably happens once for every 10 times the AC starts up. Interestingly enough, my AC peak power requirement specs are well within the inverter specs so I'm not sure why the trip is happening. One option to resolve this could be to put a soft start module between the air conditioner and the inverter. They are around $300

preciate this! @@nomaddict5279

I've not used that product so I don't have any comparison

Thanks for the feedback! Oh man, yeah poles were falling out of it (and falling completely out of the van onto the driveway) and with the belts that got twisted it was a total disaster at first! I was pretty frustrated!

Sorry about that! I didn't have much time to shoot the video and didn't have a tripod handy. Also, it's only intended for my son to lay on it and I didn't want him in the video. That said, if you search UA-cam for Cabbunk you can see some different sized people lay on them for references.

Yeah, I think I had already moved the seats as far back as possible so that's as tight as the lower bunk gets. It's really no big deal for our situation, but seems like it should be more snug if someone were lying on it. I suppose I could shorten the belts via stitching for the lower bunk if needed.

I wondered about that also, but since the weight is distributed across four different points (2 headrests and the two poles), and we're not going to be putting much weight on it, I think it'll be fine.

Yes, I did have to take it to the shop to get them to enable the light that I installed.

@@nomaddict5279 Thanks for the reply. Thinking more about this, I think I will go with the separate battery version, less confusing, wiring, and its brighter as you say.

Me too! It's such a waste of screen space.

It did great all last year. I took out the battery for the fall and winter and just the other day put it back in the van. Air conditioner fired up like it should. I’m still planning to add solar on top of the roof to augment the charging of the battery. So far, I’m really glad I went with this set up. There have been a handful of times where the inverter overloaded when the air conditioner started up, but not frequently enough to be a big deal. For about $300 I could solve for that with a soft start device in line, which would probably be more of a necessity if you had pets in there and had to make sure the air conditioner always started up if you weren’t there.

@@nomaddict5279 your a/c runs off ac and plugs into the inverter side of the goal zero? Did you look at those 12v dc rooftop a/cs?

@@mershanks that is correct! I did look into the 12V systems, but there was so much debate around how effective they are, and the cost was also substantially more for the units I was looking at. Finally just decided to go the AC route and I'm happy with it.

Hey Grant! Thanks so much for the feedback! Glad it was helpful. We made wall panels out of 1/8 inch birch and cover them in fabric. Totally DIY, but it worked pretty well and saved a ton of money. Basically used cardboard to make templates around the wheel well and then traced that onto the birch wood. Total cost was around $300 I think. We went over the top of the orange metal. The only wires I have behind the panels are for some reading lights/USB ports… Very minimal. My Instagram has pictures of the wall panels. @nomaddict_sprinter. Let me know if you have any other questions!

@@nomaddict5279 Sweet, thanks for answering! Noticed this was posted a year ago so I had small hope for a reply lol!

@@user-lw9nu4dm6o no problem at all! I only have a few videos so I try to reply to any comments. 😀

Thanks man! Super low tech but it worked well and held up for thousands of miles! Some people may not like drilling a hole in their table, but ours was a cheap $30 table so I didn't bother me. :)

I think it's just to reinforce the surface in which the inserts are installed so it's sturdier, given how much weight is going to potentially be on the bed platform. It also provides a template of sorts for the L track to lineup to you so you don't have to measure every single hole that you would bolt the old track into.

I don't recall at this point… We sold the Jeep a while back

It’s not too bad, but I wouldn’t want to do it all the time. It’s pretty hefty, and if you use shims then you have to put those back where they were. Also, the interior and tail lights would need quick disconnects so you can disconnect them when you remove the canopy. It’s maybe 15-20 minutes to remove the canopy start to finish. That does not include removing the rooftop tent (heavy!). With that installed, it's not worth the hassle to remove the canopy.

I have a shore power connector that is wired to a regular 110 outlet on the wall of the van. If we are plugged into shore power, I just plug the air conditioner cord into that outlet (instead of plugging it into the Yeti). It's really low tech but works great. A fancier method is to get an automatic transfer switch (ATS) that would automatically switch between the battery and shore power (the ATS automatically switches to shore power when detected). RVs have those built-in. Since we don't camp super often, it's just simpler and cheaper to just plug the air conditioner power cord into whichever power source we are using at the time.

Thank you!

It does recommend it, and without something like it, the metal plates might rub the paint off of the roof. It's been a while since I installed it and I can't remember how much space there was between the metal plates and the roof

That’s a great question! JMG does some extensive safety testing with their seats, which was attractive to me. No idea how insurance is affected, though. They mention their testing in the FAQ: www.jmgsystemsllc.com/faq

Hey, so there were already some sound deadening panels from the factory on the walls so I didn’t add any other ones. It’s quite enough for us, but I’m not sure how much quieter it would have been with additional panels.

Hey, thanks for the feedback! I’m glad it was useful! Yes,you are correct… The 20” measurement is for the seat cushion width, but I haven’t confirmed the measurement myself. Having sat in these a few times, I definitely would not go with anything smaller / narrower. 20” would be the minimum width you would want to go with.

@@nomaddict5279 Thank you for letting me know!

​@@nomaddict5279 Now that the chairs are installed, how is the leg room between the front swivel facing the back & the installed captain chair? Based on where the bracket is underneath it doesn't seem like there's any wiggle room to possibly put the captain chair back an inch or 2. Thoughts?

@@liberatingleash there is actually plenty of room for people to all face each other. That said, in reality we hardly ever turn the front chairs around. At one point I thought about putting a small removable table between the front and second row seats, but never did.

@@nomaddict5279 thanks so much for the info and sharing it with me.

Thank you! Here was the cost breakdown: JMG Dual Captain Chairs: $3795.00 Shipping / Handling (ESTIMATE): $447.00 Tax if Nexus in IL: 318.15

That’s correct! The bolt heads slide into the factory rails.

I looked into different boots that go in that space, but none of them were thick enough. That was over a year ago so maybe there is something available now.

Awesome, thanks for the feedback! Glad it was useful!

Oh interesting! Sorry to hear that! I wonder if it’s a slightly different model of the Bosch system than what I have. I’ve ridden mine several times on ebike high mode with no issues so far. All I can think is to double check to make sure you are indeed in E bike mode, but other than that I’m not sure what else you could do besides keeping it on medium mode. Best of luck to you!

@@nomaddict5279 yes looks like a slight change in the newer model of the Bosch eBike motor

@ALinspired, did you find any solution?

@@kszysiues fixed itself a few weeks ago after an update on the bike Honestly have no idea he said it’s the highest voltage and wattage we could at the time was still giving me problems But now all fixed with the latest Bosch update

@@kszysiues with the latest update from Bosch completely fixed the issue

Hey, I’m glad the video has been useful! So the awning is not actually mounted to the rack at all. It mounts to the factory roof rails. The rack is designed to wrap around the awning, but does not touch it. That was one of the things I liked about the rack when I was researching roof racks. Good luck, and let me know if you have any other questions!

Ahh of course. Assuming you used the Fiama adapters? Thanks so much. Oh we a fabbing our rack from scratch here in Oz. We don’t have anything close here off the shelf

@@peninsulastonemasons5339 correct, I used the Fiamma roof rail adapters! Good luck on your build! That’s cool!

@nomaddict5279 I’ve just bought a trek rail 9.5 gen 2 a few days ago, is this light worth buying or should I get a slightly less powerful one? Also want to make sure.. are you saying the light cannot be used in its highest power on your bike? If so.. do you know if there’s a light that the bike can handle better?

@@skullxsmasherz3548 it’s plenty bright for me in the E bike mode, and it seems to be really well-made, so I am happy with the purchase. I read where some people have wired directly into the Bosch battery to get past the electrical limitations of the factory wiring/computer, but I’m sure that voids the warranty. I think it puts out around 2800 lumens in the highest E bike mode, which is totally fine for me. I was getting by on 1300 lumens before I bought this (and 1300 lumens on my helmet), and I ride 10 to 15mph comfortably on singletrack trails in pitch black, so this is even better. The 4500 lumen output is for the highest non-ebike mode. It would be nice to use that mode, but I’m not too disappointed. I’m mostly glad to have something directly wired into the bike and this puts out about as many lumens as you will find on any light that will work with this bike. When you take it to the dealer to have the computer programmed to use a light, they will be able to set it to always on, or not always on. Tell them to use the not always on mode. otherwise the light is on even during the daytime, and you cannot turn it off with the button on the light.

@@skullxsmasherz3548 also, in the highest E bike mode, which is 2800 lm I believe, it pulls about 15W. Whatever watt number you tell them determines how much battery reserve the bike keeps for pedal assist versus headlght power (it’s designed to leave you some battery for your light so you can at least pedal home, versus draining the battery with pedal assist and not having a headlight).

@@nomaddict5279thanks for the help I ordered the light and it came a couple of days ago, I haven’t installed it yet but will get it done asap👍

@@skullxsmasherz3548 hey awesome!! I think you’ll really like it! Just be sure to hold down the button for 8 seconds to get it into ebike mode before you accidentally put it on non-ebike high mode like I did! :)