Just be aware that sometimes the AC unit will trip the inverter and you'll have to reset it by just pushing the inverter button. This tends to happen when the temperatures are really warm. It probably happens once for every 10 times the AC starts up. Interestingly enough, my AC peak power requirement specs are well within the inverter specs so I'm not sure why the trip is happening. One option to resolve this could be to put a soft start module between the air conditioner and the inverter. They are around $300
just ordered the RecPro 9.5k for my 170. I plan to only run it on the generator. I highly doubt my yeti 1500x and solar will be able to keep it running for very long. what cable should I use to make the chord? I see recopro recommends 12AWG?
I think you are right… The generator will be the best bet. I’m not sure the yeti would handle the start up amps/watts and not be overloaded without adding a soft start module in line. As far as wire gauge, I would use this calculator, as I don’t know how long you’re power cable will be. Just be sure to account for the maximum amps/watts when it starts up. The specs are provided on the RecPro website. www.explorist.life/wire-sizing-calculator/
With the Goal Zero vehicle integration kit, it charges the Yeti 6000X about 5% per hour of driving when connected to the sprinter’s factory auxiliary battery, which is pretty awesome (it would be more if it weren't a smart alternator that only puts out high amperage when the factory battery needs charged... that's why a dedicated alternator would be even better)! We drove in 90° heat with the AC on high for about four hours and the battery was at 72%. I’m pretty sure we could drive most of the day without fully depleting the battery. Typically, we wouldn’t need to use the rooftop AC in the cooler hours of the day, so there should be enough time to charge the battery back up between uses. If needed, we will augment with solar charging so that when the van is parked it can continue to charge (still far cheaper than adding a second alternator / inverter). You can charge with solar at the same time as charging with the vehicle integration kit, so theoretically we should be able to charge at a rate that never depletes the battery while driving and using the AC. Although, I’ve also heard that this simultaneous charging from two sources does not always work as expected due to some glitches in the software. It does work for me. I will make a follow up video or add more comments here after we do more testing, but right now I am super happy with the results!
@@TrailBoundco The dashboard air-conditioning is not enough to cool the van down for our family when it’s around 90° or more, even with insulation. If it were just two people it wouldn’t be so bad, but with kids in the second row it’s a little too warm. When it gets closer to 100°, it’s even more necessary. We also live in an area with high humidity in the summertime, which makes it feel even hotter. I would love to not need it!
I'm not sure. I would recommend just comparing the specs between the 6000 and 3000 to see how many amps/watts it can handle. Obviously you would have half the runtime, but if you use solar panels and alternator charging, you could probably get a few hours of run time per day while you're driving
I have a shore power connector that is wired to a regular 110 outlet on the wall of the van. If we are plugged into shore power, I just plug the air conditioner cord into that outlet (instead of plugging it into the Yeti). It's really low tech but works great. A fancier method is to get an automatic transfer switch (ATS) that would automatically switch between the battery and shore power (the ATS automatically switches to shore power when detected). RVs have those built-in. Since we don't camp super often, it's just simpler and cheaper to just plug the air conditioner power cord into whichever power source we are using at the time.
It did great all last year. I took out the battery for the fall and winter and just the other day put it back in the van. Air conditioner fired up like it should. I’m still planning to add solar on top of the roof to augment the charging of the battery. So far, I’m really glad I went with this set up. There have been a handful of times where the inverter overloaded when the air conditioner started up, but not frequently enough to be a big deal. For about $300 I could solve for that with a soft start device in line, which would probably be more of a necessity if you had pets in there and had to make sure the air conditioner always started up if you weren’t there.
@@mershanks that is correct! I did look into the 12V systems, but there was so much debate around how effective they are, and the cost was also substantially more for the units I was looking at. Finally just decided to go the AC route and I'm happy with it.
When it is too hot in the truck. You need to allow the yeti to cool down. If you try to take it over a certain spike OF ENERGY it will cut off. I tested 1250 it is better in hot vans.
Thank you! Looking at one of these to power a tiny home project with portable a/c unit
Just be aware that sometimes the AC unit will trip the inverter and you'll have to reset it by just pushing the inverter button. This tends to happen when the temperatures are really warm. It probably happens once for every 10 times the AC starts up. Interestingly enough, my AC peak power requirement specs are well within the inverter specs so I'm not sure why the trip is happening. One option to resolve this could be to put a soft start module between the air conditioner and the inverter. They are around $300
preciate this! @@nomaddict5279
just ordered the RecPro 9.5k for my 170. I plan to only run it on the generator. I highly doubt my yeti 1500x and solar will be able to keep it running for very long. what cable should I use to make the chord? I see recopro recommends 12AWG?
I think you are right… The generator will be the best bet. I’m not sure the yeti would handle the start up amps/watts and not be overloaded without adding a soft start module in line. As far as wire gauge, I would use this calculator, as I don’t know how long you’re power cable will be. Just be sure to account for the maximum amps/watts when it starts up. The specs are provided on the RecPro website.
www.explorist.life/wire-sizing-calculator/
With the Goal Zero vehicle integration kit, it charges the Yeti 6000X about 5% per hour of driving when connected to the sprinter’s factory auxiliary battery, which is pretty awesome (it would be more if it weren't a smart alternator that only puts out high amperage when the factory battery needs charged... that's why a dedicated alternator would be even better)! We drove in 90° heat with the AC on high for about four hours and the battery was at 72%. I’m pretty sure we could drive most of the day without fully depleting the battery. Typically, we wouldn’t need to use the rooftop AC in the cooler hours of the day, so there should be enough time to charge the battery back up between uses. If needed, we will augment with solar charging so that when the van is parked it can continue to charge (still far cheaper than adding a second alternator / inverter).
You can charge with solar at the same time as charging with the vehicle integration kit, so theoretically we should be able to charge at a rate that never depletes the battery while driving and using the AC. Although, I’ve also heard that this simultaneous charging from two sources does not always work as expected due to some glitches in the software. It does work for me. I will make a follow up video or add more comments here after we do more testing, but right now I am super happy with the results!
why are you running the AC while driving? your van ac doesn't work?
@@TrailBoundco The dashboard air-conditioning is not enough to cool the van down for our family when it’s around 90° or more, even with insulation. If it were just two people it wouldn’t be so bad, but with kids in the second row it’s a little too warm. When it gets closer to 100°, it’s even more necessary. We also live in an area with high humidity in the summertime, which makes it feel even hotter. I would love to not need it!
Does this work with the 3000x?
I'm not sure. I would recommend just comparing the specs between the 6000 and 3000 to see how many amps/watts it can handle. Obviously you would have half the runtime, but if you use solar panels and alternator charging, you could probably get a few hours of run time per day while you're driving
How would I plug into shore power? Do I need to add a breaker or anything else?
I have a shore power connector that is wired to a regular 110 outlet on the wall of the van. If we are plugged into shore power, I just plug the air conditioner cord into that outlet (instead of plugging it into the Yeti). It's really low tech but works great. A fancier method is to get an automatic transfer switch (ATS) that would automatically switch between the battery and shore power (the ATS automatically switches to shore power when detected). RVs have those built-in. Since we don't camp super often, it's just simpler and cheaper to just plug the air conditioner power cord into whichever power source we are using at the time.
Thank you!
Curious how this set up has held up so far?
It did great all last year. I took out the battery for the fall and winter and just the other day put it back in the van. Air conditioner fired up like it should. I’m still planning to add solar on top of the roof to augment the charging of the battery. So far, I’m really glad I went with this set up. There have been a handful of times where the inverter overloaded when the air conditioner started up, but not frequently enough to be a big deal. For about $300 I could solve for that with a soft start device in line, which would probably be more of a necessity if you had pets in there and had to make sure the air conditioner always started up if you weren’t there.
@@nomaddict5279 your a/c runs off ac and plugs into the inverter side of the goal zero? Did you look at those 12v dc rooftop a/cs?
@@mershanks that is correct! I did look into the 12V systems, but there was so much debate around how effective they are, and the cost was also substantially more for the units I was looking at. Finally just decided to go the AC route and I'm happy with it.
When it is too hot in the truck. You need to allow the yeti to cool down. If you try to take it over a certain spike OF ENERGY it will cut off. I tested 1250 it is better in hot vans.
Yeah the yeti has a little temperature symbol that it displays if it gets too warm. It’s around the 100° mark I think.
I posted a video on how some of these 6000x end up being expensive useless paperweights. And Goal zero people are irresponsible/rude
Wow, well I hope ours lasts longer since we don’t use it often.