Відео

Good question! Yes, probably more often than not I've ended up stopping things manually, like when the sun has set earlier than expected or when I need to get a move on!

The box should have included a hex key (allen wrench) that allows you to more securely tighten the quick release plate's screw to the Pocket 3's base adapter. I leave the plate attached to the base most of the time, or at least when I will be using the mini tripod/grip.

@@captureguide that fixed it! Thank you!!

I made a video on CPL filters which can help you decide whether it is worth getting or not. I can stack all my K&F filters, but I don't have the Black Mist filter so I'm not 100% sure on that one. However stacking a CPL with a VND would be quite fiddly, as you could accidentally rotate the other dial, and wouldn't be able to see the markings on the bottom filter.

@@captureguide Thanks for your reply, Yes i have seen that video and i don't think I need it to be honest. However, it's cheaper getting all 3 in the bundle. K&F sell the Variable ND & 1/4 black mist filter separately, but they also have a combined version of the 2, I think it would be better to get the separate version for flexibility. Could you stack the ND filter last to avoid the problem of not seeing the dials as you said?

@@vgplay4850 You can stack the VND on top of the black mist filter or vice versa, but the stacking order could make a subtle difference in terms of things like diffusion amount or potential vignetting. While I think the combined ND/Black Mist is more ideal for that very specific use-case, I agree that the flexibility of having them separated makes more sense. There will probably be times when you don't want the black mist filter, and also times when you either don't want any light reduction (since ND2 is the minimum) or want a stronger ND filter (which you could buy separately in the future). And as I mentioned in the video a VND at maximum ND strength can have noticeable polarization artifacts.

Thanks! I think I had it set at the very top notch throughout this video (strongest setting) but I've also tried using slightly lower notches since making the video. Not sure how much this can change the results.

Thanks for mentioning this! It definitely makes sense that having more frames helps with interpolation and motion estimation. I did try using some 60fps source videos during testing, but the results still fell a bit short of what I was hoping for. For instance, in this video, the footage I used for Optical Flow + Vector Motion Blur and the ReelSmart Motion Blur Plugin (with the road train passing by) was shot at 60fps. I did not however try 120fps video on a 24p timeline so I might try that sometime!

@ with my testing, only the OpenFX version of motion blur using the additional frames

Haven't tested them on skis but I'm curious how things would turn out! For my bike footage there was a lot of trial and error before things started to look decent, so I wouldn't risk using a low shutter speed if you're capturing important footage. But if you have the time to experiment with things like mounting positions, shutter speed, and the smoothness of slopes, you could end up with some really unique looking footage.

Have you updated the firmware? The FPV ⊥ mode was added in a firmware update.

Yes it will work , just take out rubber protection from action 5 and ND filters will fit perfectly.

Good question! You're either full auto which will dynamically adjust ISO and/or shutter speed, or manual with fixed shutter speed and either fixed ISO or ISO range. It's uncommon for video cameras to let you manually select min/max shutter speeds, usually you can only select a single value. If you want to set it and forget it then auto is better, for fixed shutter speed you will need to be more conscious about the lighting in the scene and be wary of any dramatic changes in brightness levels.

@ that's unfortunate the GoPro does support exactly that. I would set iso 800 on purpose so it will have to use extreme fast shutterspeeds and use labs qr codes to allow for example the maximum slowest shutterspeed of 1/200. Running fixed shutter like you mentioned in the end is not an option because there may come a moment where even iso 100 will still blow out and thus i need a ND filter

@@sarcasticfpv Interesting, I did not know you could do that on a GoPro. It would be a cool feature to have. Without an ND filter you can definitely end up with blown out footage even when shooting at something like 1/200.

@@captureguide exactly! I have opened a thread in dji forum lets hope they may integrate it since its a quick fix. Have you experimented with HLG vs DLogM? I have ready dlogm is still basically in rec709 space means technically hlg10bit profile should have a wider gamut when treated correctly at colorgrading

@@sarcasticfpv Awesome! As for HLG, yes I've heard it has the advantage you mention. However, I am pretty used to working with D-Log M and don't know if I would benefit much out of it, especially since I have a cheap display. With D-Log M there is the official LUT and unofficial ones for quick results, and it has the color recovery option so that you can preview it when recording. But I'm a color grading beginner so haven't done any in-depth experimenting.

I forgot to mention that, thanks for pointing that out! Gyro data is only included in Wide mode with stabilization turned off. Haven't tested the new firmware much yet!

Ps. D Log still looks better and more natural than the overprocessed 8-bit normal profile.

Thanks for your comment! You’re right that both 60p at 1/400 and 30p at 1/200 are equivalently close to the 180-degree rule for their respective frame rates, so the motion blur will look equally "natural" when played back at 60p or 30p. However, motion blur depends on shutter speed, so 60p at 1/400 will always have less blur than 30p at 1/200. If we play back the 60p 1/400 footage at 30p, we move further away from the 180-degree rule. And 30p and 60p playback have different aesthetics, personally most of the time I want to produce footage that will be played back at 30p.

That's because for small channels, UA-cam uses a lower encoding algorithm, called AVC. Right click on your video and select "Stats for nerds" and you'll see the encryption use on the "Codecs" line. The better encoding is VP9 but you have to up our resolution at least to 1440p in order to get that. You can also edit your video in 1080p time line, but export it in 4K and then you'll see that youtube will give you VP9 codec wich is higher quality!

anyway right after this comment I just watched Mackey video about Tilta isolator, it absolutely killed it 👌

Thanks, will definitely check it out because the small vibrations are especially hard to deal with at low SS when direct mounting!

Thanks! Had a few requests for that but haven't tried it properly yet. The problem is the setup is very cumbersome and I can't see it being practical for many people. The shoulder strap would struggle to support the stabilizer and Pocket 3 without keeping a hand on it for support, so it isn't exactly a handsfree solution.

@@captureguide -- Thanks! I had been thinking of hands-free using the Pocket 3 (strap/chest mount) for walk & talk videos, but the bobbing is a little more than I hoped -- in see your video and some others. I like how the z-axis stabilizer tamed a lot of the image movement. So now I am thinking of an 'over the shoulder' position for the Pocket 3 with the z-axis stabilizer -- mounting from the shoulder strap, but on my back instead on the front. Of course that makes it near impossible to tweak any of the controls without having to bring the camera around front.... Still thinking....

That would be an interesting approach! You can remote control the camera using the DJI Mimo app. However it's a wide angle camera so you might get the side of your head in the frame and setting it up with the z-axis stabilizer in there as well might be quite tricky...

That’s pretty good suggestion. Can most video editing programs add the motion blur effect in post?

Thanks for your comment! The idea has crossed my mind before, but I haven't tried it. I might try and add motion blur in post on some footage with no motion blur and see how it compares with footage shot with true motion blur in each frame.

@@Alakazam2047 the only programs I can personally vouch for are Davinci Resolve and Insta360 Studio, but this seems like the kind of effect that most major NLE's would want to include.

@@captureguide I would watch this video, don't think I've come across anything that makes a direct comparison

@@zaldabus Thanks I'm working on it right now!

Thanks for the heads up!

Really appreciate the feedback, thanks!!!

Haven't heard of that one before, interesting setup 😲

Didn't think of that, thanks for mentioning it!

It shouldn't be that shaky, when filming things on the desk I had the gimbal speed set to fast so it was a bit twitchy