One other option I don’t hear mentioned very often is to use high shutter speed settings with EIS/Gyro Stabilization and then add motion blur in post. You’ll take a hit with additional processing time and it won’t look quite as natural as real motion blur but you won’t have any footage that’s unusable because of ghosting artifacts.
Thanks for your comment! The idea has crossed my mind before, but I haven't tried it. I might try and add motion blur in post on some footage with no motion blur and see how it compares with footage shot with true motion blur in each frame.
@@Alakazam2047 the only programs I can personally vouch for are Davinci Resolve and Insta360 Studio, but this seems like the kind of effect that most major NLE's would want to include.
It is nice that you point out these options. I have been using the following set up for shooting in daytime. The footage looks fine with little artifacts, some motion blur (or little jittery and z-axis bobbing being reduced. My set up is: Action 4 (4K50 Horizon Balancing, shutter 1/200, ISO 100 - 3200, DJI ND8 or ND16) on Steadymaker Bob M (a z-axis stabilizer).
My goal is to keep as close to 180 rule and maintain the right expo. Iso as low as possible. If its daytime EIS shouldnt have any problems with that because EIS has to have good light. If the scene is very contrasting from sunny to shady then either auto iso (blocked shutter for keeping the 180 rule) or turn EIS off, choose WIDE and stabilize in post with gyroflow
Horizon balancing is probably the best option for walks as it's tricky to keep the horizon level when you're holding the camera handheld. The other option is to use a gimbal.
Thanks for your insightful video. I'm predominantly a photographer but trying to incorporate some videos into my travel (DJI Action 5 Pro). How do you recommend testing out settings in the field in different environments (e.g. lighting, weather etc). Unlike photography where we can change setting almost instantly,with tools such as histograms and zebra patterns, results are quickly clear. I'm struggling to come up with a set of standard settings that I can change as the day progresses. Do you have any thoughts?
Thank you! Great question! If I'm shooting in manual then I usually just go by DJI's EV value and try to keep it within an acceptable range (e.g. -0.7 to 0). I believe you can use the DJI Mimo app to see histograms/zebra lines, but not directly from the camera's built-in display. However, personally I don't use this feature.
Great video! There's a new firmware update that further improves the stabe, have you tried it? Also I think it's relevant to mention that Gyroflow needs Wide to work, footage in Ultrawide doesn't carry over the gyro data or something.
I forgot to mention that, thanks for pointing that out! Gyro data is only included in Wide mode with stabilization turned off. Haven't tested the new firmware much yet!
I don't do real estate video but I wouldn't recommend it. Footage can be quite noisy when indoors in areas that lack sufficient light and the image quality will be noticeably worse compared to a mirrorless camera on a gimbal. If you're looking for something really portable instead of a proper video camera setup then a phone or DJI Osmo Pocket 3 would make more sense.
keep shutter at 90deg and you'll have smooth sailing. FPV drone pilors have the same issues with micro jitters/jello. 180 is too slow, 90 is just right
Thanks for your comment! You’re right that both 60p at 1/400 and 30p at 1/200 are equivalently close to the 180-degree rule for their respective frame rates, so the motion blur will look equally "natural" when played back at 60p or 30p. However, motion blur depends on shutter speed, so 60p at 1/400 will always have less blur than 30p at 1/200. If we play back the 60p 1/400 footage at 30p, we move further away from the 180-degree rule. And 30p and 60p playback have different aesthetics, personally most of the time I want to produce footage that will be played back at 30p.
Good tips mate the footage looks fantastic. hope you make video ideas damping the vibration when it attached to the bike that as good as when you put it on your body/head
Quick question i also want to use it on my bicycle and according to you I'd run a faster shutter without ND filters but is it possible to have a min max shutter speeds or how do you set a fixed shutter then and hope it doesn't overexpose?? Because if i have ev values then i can't ever be sure it's not using one of the too slow shutter speeds or not?
Good question! You're either full auto which will dynamically adjust ISO and/or shutter speed, or manual with fixed shutter speed and either fixed ISO or ISO range. It's uncommon for video cameras to let you manually select min/max shutter speeds, usually you can only select a single value. If you want to set it and forget it then auto is better, for fixed shutter speed you will need to be more conscious about the lighting in the scene and be wary of any dramatic changes in brightness levels.
@ that's unfortunate the GoPro does support exactly that. I would set iso 800 on purpose so it will have to use extreme fast shutterspeeds and use labs qr codes to allow for example the maximum slowest shutterspeed of 1/200. Running fixed shutter like you mentioned in the end is not an option because there may come a moment where even iso 100 will still blow out and thus i need a ND filter
@@sarcasticfpv Interesting, I did not know you could do that on a GoPro. It would be a cool feature to have. Without an ND filter you can definitely end up with blown out footage even when shooting at something like 1/200.
@@captureguide exactly! I have opened a thread in dji forum lets hope they may integrate it since its a quick fix. Have you experimented with HLG vs DLogM? I have ready dlogm is still basically in rec709 space means technically hlg10bit profile should have a wider gamut when treated correctly at colorgrading
@@sarcasticfpv Awesome! As for HLG, yes I've heard it has the advantage you mention. However, I am pretty used to working with D-Log M and don't know if I would benefit much out of it, especially since I have a cheap display. With D-Log M there is the official LUT and unofficial ones for quick results, and it has the color recovery option so that you can preview it when recording. But I'm a color grading beginner so haven't done any in-depth experimenting.
Haven't tested them on skis but I'm curious how things would turn out! For my bike footage there was a lot of trial and error before things started to look decent, so I wouldn't risk using a low shutter speed if you're capturing important footage. But if you have the time to experiment with things like mounting positions, shutter speed, and the smoothness of slopes, you could end up with some really unique looking footage.
I normally set it to use an ISO range, sometimes 100-6400 but not always. It would only get close to 6400 if things were very dark, in daylight it would stay closer to the 100 range. Using a range as opposed to fixed ISO can help when the amount of light is varying, which is common when I'm riding around different areas.
The amount of blur depends on the shutter speed. Shooting at 48fps with a high shutter speed and exporting at 24fps won't inherently give you more motion blur. You can either drop every other frame or use frame blending, which can potentially make motion appear slightly smoother than simply shooting at 24fps with the same shutter speed.
Good and informative video. can you suggest upload settings for 1080p 30fps clips for UA-cam. no matter how many bit rate I increase while exporting video after uploading to UA-cam my video looks blocky, jittery and low quality. Thank you
That's because for small channels, UA-cam uses a lower encoding algorithm, called AVC. Right click on your video and select "Stats for nerds" and you'll see the encryption use on the "Codecs" line. The better encoding is VP9 but you have to up our resolution at least to 1440p in order to get that. You can also edit your video in 1080p time line, but export it in 4K and then you'll see that youtube will give you VP9 codec wich is higher quality!
I don't think that this matters for a small youtube channel. "Cinematic" is such an over used therm and definitely NOT the reason youtube channels don't grow. Also, if we are to really talk "cinematic", we need cameras with shutter angle! PS: you think that DJI D-Log is actually log as in Sony's S-Log, or Canon's C-Log? In these small sensor action cameras, "Cinematic" is only a marketing ploy to convince you to always upgrade to the next new shinny camera that's overpriced as F. PS2: if you only post on youtube, 10bit is also for nothing as your 10bit video is converted to 8bit after uploading it to UA-cam!
One of the purposes of 10bit is to allow for a greater degree of processing in colour grading without hitting limitations. 10bit is also useful or even essential if shooting log.
One other option I don’t hear mentioned very often is to use high shutter speed settings with EIS/Gyro Stabilization and then add motion blur in post. You’ll take a hit with additional processing time and it won’t look quite as natural as real motion blur but you won’t have any footage that’s unusable because of ghosting artifacts.
That’s pretty good suggestion. Can most video editing programs add the motion blur effect in post?
Thanks for your comment! The idea has crossed my mind before, but I haven't tried it. I might try and add motion blur in post on some footage with no motion blur and see how it compares with footage shot with true motion blur in each frame.
@@Alakazam2047 the only programs I can personally vouch for are Davinci Resolve and Insta360 Studio, but this seems like the kind of effect that most major NLE's would want to include.
@@captureguide I would watch this video, don't think I've come across anything that makes a direct comparison
@@zaldabus Thanks I'm working on it right now!
you helped me a lot! I didn't really know how to use the filters, thank you very much, excellent video
It is nice that you point out these options. I have been using the following set up for shooting in daytime. The footage looks fine with little artifacts, some motion blur (or little jittery and z-axis bobbing being reduced. My set up is: Action 4 (4K50 Horizon Balancing, shutter 1/200, ISO 100 - 3200, DJI ND8 or ND16) on Steadymaker Bob M (a z-axis stabilizer).
My goal is to keep as close to 180 rule and maintain the right expo. Iso as low as possible. If its daytime EIS shouldnt have any problems with that because EIS has to have good light. If the scene is very contrasting from sunny to shady then either auto iso (blocked shutter for keeping the 180 rule) or turn EIS off, choose WIDE and stabilize in post with gyroflow
Do you recommend using horizon balancing to make cinematic clips during walks? maybe using this mode improves stabilization
Horizon balancing is probably the best option for walks as it's tricky to keep the horizon level when you're holding the camera handheld. The other option is to use a gimbal.
Thanks for your insightful video. I'm predominantly a photographer but trying to incorporate some videos into my travel (DJI Action 5 Pro). How do you recommend testing out settings in the field in different environments (e.g. lighting, weather etc). Unlike photography where we can change setting almost instantly,with tools such as histograms and zebra patterns, results are quickly clear. I'm struggling to come up with a set of standard settings that I can change as the day progresses. Do you have any thoughts?
Thank you! Great question! If I'm shooting in manual then I usually just go by DJI's EV value and try to keep it within an acceptable range (e.g. -0.7 to 0). I believe you can use the DJI Mimo app to see histograms/zebra lines, but not directly from the camera's built-in display. However, personally I don't use this feature.
Great video! There's a new firmware update that further improves the stabe, have you tried it? Also I think it's relevant to mention that Gyroflow needs Wide to work, footage in Ultrawide doesn't carry over the gyro data or something.
I forgot to mention that, thanks for pointing that out! Gyro data is only included in Wide mode with stabilization turned off. Haven't tested the new firmware much yet!
For real estate video how do you recommend dji action 5 pro for cinematic interior videos?
I don't do real estate video but I wouldn't recommend it. Footage can be quite noisy when indoors in areas that lack sufficient light and the image quality will be noticeably worse compared to a mirrorless camera on a gimbal. If you're looking for something really portable instead of a proper video camera setup then a phone or DJI Osmo Pocket 3 would make more sense.
keep shutter at 90deg and you'll have smooth sailing. FPV drone pilors have the same issues with micro jitters/jello. 180 is too slow, 90 is just right
why 30p? you can use 4k 60p which means closer to 180 rule? then double up the ss to 1/400 to get better stabilize video and same blur to 30p 1/200ss?
Thanks for your comment! You’re right that both 60p at 1/400 and 30p at 1/200 are equivalently close to the 180-degree rule for their respective frame rates, so the motion blur will look equally "natural" when played back at 60p or 30p. However, motion blur depends on shutter speed, so 60p at 1/400 will always have less blur than 30p at 1/200.
If we play back the 60p 1/400 footage at 30p, we move further away from the 180-degree rule. And 30p and 60p playback have different aesthetics, personally most of the time I want to produce footage that will be played back at 30p.
very informative for action 5
Good tips mate the footage looks fantastic. hope you make video ideas damping the vibration when it attached to the bike that as good as when you put it on your body/head
anyway right after this comment I just watched Mackey video about Tilta isolator, it absolutely killed it 👌
Thanks, will definitely check it out because the small vibrations are especially hard to deal with at low SS when direct mounting!
Quick question i also want to use it on my bicycle and according to you I'd run a faster shutter without ND filters but is it possible to have a min max shutter speeds or how do you set a fixed shutter then and hope it doesn't overexpose?? Because if i have ev values then i can't ever be sure it's not using one of the too slow shutter speeds or not?
Good question! You're either full auto which will dynamically adjust ISO and/or shutter speed, or manual with fixed shutter speed and either fixed ISO or ISO range. It's uncommon for video cameras to let you manually select min/max shutter speeds, usually you can only select a single value. If you want to set it and forget it then auto is better, for fixed shutter speed you will need to be more conscious about the lighting in the scene and be wary of any dramatic changes in brightness levels.
@ that's unfortunate the GoPro does support exactly that. I would set iso 800 on purpose so it will have to use extreme fast shutterspeeds and use labs qr codes to allow for example the maximum slowest shutterspeed of 1/200. Running fixed shutter like you mentioned in the end is not an option because there may come a moment where even iso 100 will still blow out and thus i need a ND filter
@@sarcasticfpv Interesting, I did not know you could do that on a GoPro. It would be a cool feature to have. Without an ND filter you can definitely end up with blown out footage even when shooting at something like 1/200.
@@captureguide exactly! I have opened a thread in dji forum lets hope they may integrate it since its a quick fix. Have you experimented with HLG vs DLogM? I have ready dlogm is still basically in rec709 space means technically hlg10bit profile should have a wider gamut when treated correctly at colorgrading
@@sarcasticfpv Awesome! As for HLG, yes I've heard it has the advantage you mention. However, I am pretty used to working with D-Log M and don't know if I would benefit much out of it, especially since I have a cheap display. With D-Log M there is the official LUT and unofficial ones for quick results, and it has the color recovery option so that you can preview it when recording. But I'm a color grading beginner so haven't done any in-depth experimenting.
Can the same ND filters be used for both Action 4 and 5?
Yes it will work , just take out rubber protection from action 5 and ND filters will fit perfectly.
Would you use nd filters when skiing?
Haven't tested them on skis but I'm curious how things would turn out! For my bike footage there was a lot of trial and error before things started to look decent, so I wouldn't risk using a low shutter speed if you're capturing important footage. But if you have the time to experiment with things like mounting positions, shutter speed, and the smoothness of slopes, you could end up with some really unique looking footage.
why you shooting day light with 6400 iso set it manual to 100 or 200 iso and the ND filte isnot every time needed
I normally set it to use an ISO range, sometimes 100-6400 but not always. It would only get close to 6400 if things were very dark, in daylight it would stay closer to the 100 range. Using a range as opposed to fixed ISO can help when the amount of light is varying, which is common when I'm riding around different areas.
What if' you shoot at 48fps, then export at 24 🤔
The amount of blur depends on the shutter speed. Shooting at 48fps with a high shutter speed and exporting at 24fps won't inherently give you more motion blur. You can either drop every other frame or use frame blending, which can potentially make motion appear slightly smoother than simply shooting at 24fps with the same shutter speed.
@captureguide Ok thanks. I'm new and also have the DJI drone so would be nice if they both looked the same on the timeline 😁👍
Good and informative video. can you suggest upload settings for 1080p 30fps clips for UA-cam. no matter how many bit rate I increase while exporting video after uploading to UA-cam my video looks blocky, jittery and low quality. Thank you
That's because for small channels, UA-cam uses a lower encoding algorithm, called AVC. Right click on your video and select "Stats for nerds" and you'll see the encryption use on the "Codecs" line.
The better encoding is VP9 but you have to up our resolution at least to 1440p in order to get that.
You can also edit your video in 1080p time line, but export it in 4K and then you'll see that youtube will give you VP9 codec wich is higher quality!
I don't think that this matters for a small youtube channel.
"Cinematic" is such an over used therm and definitely NOT the reason youtube channels don't grow.
Also, if we are to really talk "cinematic", we need cameras with shutter angle!
PS: you think that DJI D-Log is actually log as in Sony's S-Log, or Canon's C-Log?
In these small sensor action cameras, "Cinematic" is only a marketing ploy to convince you to always upgrade to the next new shinny camera that's overpriced as F.
PS2: if you only post on youtube, 10bit is also for nothing as your 10bit video is converted to 8bit after uploading it to UA-cam!
Ps. D Log still looks better and more natural than the overprocessed 8-bit normal profile.
One of the purposes of 10bit is to allow for a greater degree of processing in colour grading without hitting limitations. 10bit is also useful or even essential if shooting log.
Just use post EIS and not in camera EIS then