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Are you referring to the Speeed app or the updated firmware that gets loaded from a laptop PC to the motor?

So does that mean every time I remove the rear wheel, the tensioner has to come off as well?

Lol wow!! I wonder how heavy that bike is!

@@FirstTimersCyclingI found out my krusader has a 22 rear cog and chainring is a 36 narrow wide. For climbing should I keep this setup or install larger rear cog?

@@aeestep77 I think that setup should be fine. That way you don't sacrifice too much on top speed. On my bafang, it had a 46T chainring and the 22 rear and that made it up the hills just fine. Made the motor work a little but it handled it. Plus the 22 rear cog I believe is the biggest you can go without some sort of an adapter to mount front chainrings on the rear like the one I have now from Pinion. I now have a 28T chainring for the rear

@@FirstTimersCycling that’s mainly what I’d use the mid drive for is to get little boost up steep hills. Use the hubs for normal riding. It’s a hunting bike anyway.

@@FirstTimersCycling not exactly sure of the weight. Looks like a smaller tire bike. Type in triple motor ebike. I think citizen cycle is the ch

Not sure, if I were to guess, probably a 4 or 5 hex

@@FirstTimersCycling thanks. Maybe 0.4 or 0.5mm

Are you referring to the brake cable? @5:28 you can see Alvin showing and explaining how to remove the cable from it's mounting point. If you are referring to the hoods, we just cut them off. Hope that helps!

Tuning the Bafang did wonders for Alvin. He loves it!

True. I've since switched to a 34T rear cog and use it primarily for climbs. Really wished that I could change the front cog to a much smaller chainring but due to the chain line and frame, I'm unable to, so changing the rear cog is all I can do. It works for me as I normally don't need too much assist. But I hear you on it not being wise to do, I can agree if the rear cog was anything lower than 34 for hill climbs. I rarely ever need to go to PA3 or higher on any hills with the BBSHD

I’ve looked and found that on my krusader. Couple wires come out the bottom bracket. So I’m wondering if I mount a bbshd if the motor would pinch those wires. If the motor rests against the frame down there

@@aeestep77 The BBSHD should come with BB spacers. Might need to play with those in the kit

Thank you for commenting and glad this video helped you save $120! Now you can use that money towards more bike parts! 😂 Just kidding, glad it helped, have a great day as well!

Hello and thanks for commenting! Totally understand your point but do take note that a quick release is a lot easier than a thru axle release. Or at least for me. A QR you can still mount the rim on the bike even if the wheel isn't straight. With the thur-axle there is no such wiggle room so the ChainLift product did help me. I no longer have this bike as I mainly mountain bike on a SS setup right now so to answer your question, I don't use it but do still have it.

I can't say for sure, you would have to reach out to Chainlift customer support.

I believe I ended up taking 4 links out and yes I used the half link (quick disconnect) Wasn't able to get the tensioner in the up position so it needed enough slack to attach then moved the tensioner in the down position. When you try for yourself, you'll see what I'm talking about. Taking an extra link will make it too hard to connect, adding links back brings too much slack which needs to be addressed with the tensioner.

🤣 I have since learned the proper way to use a chain whip. But hey, this is a channel where we do things for the first time lol but thanks for commenting!

@FirstTimersCycling I figured you knew now lol just had to say something signed nick

Hi there and thank you for commenting! To our understanding, the firmware is on the HD motor itself, not the controller. The stock is fine for most, including myself, but Alvin wanted to be able to go faster and up the output. I believe if you reach out to Golden Motors, they should be able to help you with firmware that will work for your setup. We are by no means experts on the subject either, so I'd rather not give you misinformation. What we did was at our own risk and on the systems we purchased just for learning as we enjoy tinkering. Not sure how any other controllers would perform with the firmware update.

I partially agree with what you are saying but there are times when you have a stuck piston and you need to hold the one that is moving down to force the fluid to the side that is sticking to free it. Dirt and crud can get caked on the piston, if not cleaned off regularly, it'll seize a piston. And yes, a piston can pop out and you lose hydraulic pressure, but you would have to be pumping it more than a few times to get the piston out far enough.

If I'm not mistaken, the Surley is a spring tensioned design. The DMR is a set and lock design. If you have full suspension, the DMR isn't advisable. I like my DMR but I've since moved to a 28T rear cog using an adapter. Unlike you, my derailleur got ripped from the power of the Bafang so that's why I went SS lol.

With the clutch lock mechanism of the rear derailleur, you wouldn't need this Chainlift device I'm assuming.

I'm sure rider weight affects range as well. Alvin's 52V 1000W Bafang was able to reach 40+mph on his heaviest gear on flat ground. It can probably go faster if you tune the motor as when he hit that speed it was with stock settings. I believe mid-drive systems are the fastest. I have broken chains, a rear derailleur and that has led me to go SS bafang setup. I have mine geared for climbs as l love the downhill portion of trails. You do miss out on top speed though. Depends on your preference and build but this has worked for me. The Bafang 1000W is a beast.

www.youtube.com/@FirstTimersChannel

Nice! Keep it up and ride safe!

Sorry to hear! Are they like fused in? Maybe from heat and caked on grime?

Hey thanks for commenting. The episode was just to challenge myself in seeing if it was possible. We reference an anime where the main character is riding on this style bike and uses leg strength/power to climb instead of switching gears. Just wanted to see if I could do it is all. :-)

Agreed! Great way to get into cycling if you're trying it out.

Not too sure about that as we only have experience using the C961 display. Sorry!

I could see a rear with 2-3 sprockets but I don't see how it can work for the front? Please enlighten me. :-)

Yes it can be ridden with the motor turned off. You won't feel resistance per say but you do feel the weight of the bike. Raphael, the owner of this ebike likes to ride with the motor off until he needs it for climbing hills.

You're welcome! So, to my understanding, both pistons should move freely to close on the brake rotor evenly. If only one moves, you'll notice the rotor bends to one side and that's not good. If you hold in the piston that is freely moving, the fluid should push the stuck piston out. If it doesn't, you may have a seized piston.

Thanks for the update and response. I did remove the caliper and appears to have one seized up (in the caliper). I didnot remove the front caliper to compare pistons but with new brakes installed on the rear - it is still not feeling like it should. I will have to ride the bike and apply the brakes under forces to see if I see the rotor bends. It didnot bend on the stand when I looked at it. Meanwhile its working but not getting that hard lockup braking power (I have a replacement caliper in the mail but wont be here till late next week). I will let you know what I find. I do believe on my other bike with a mechanical caliper it only has one piston that moves and the other side of that caliper appears to be adjustable to move in or out. Gonna have to dig into that project also. Again thanks for the video info. Never tackled a caliper this far but I will take it all apart now when I put the new one in.@@FirstTimersCycling

@@arthurleal2674 If there is no bite in the feel, there might be air in the hydraulic line. It'll feel spongy, like you're pressing on the lever hard but there is no hard stop feel (springy). Good luck with your find and on this project! If you've never bled a brake line before whether it be on a motorcycle or a car, I'd take this task to a local bike shop you trust so you don't end up wasting brake fluid.

I have bled from the caliper (just like you would bleed car brakes) but I think a stuck piston only give me 50% braking power. I will see when I put the new caliper in and so far I have not seen any leaks outside the line. Actually I rode the bike today and forgot to look and check if the rotor would bend on braking. Did a quick 5 miles ride. I will be at it tomorow again. I will keep you posted. (just glad I decided to buy the large sized fluid instead of one little bottle). Maybe that handle/reservior could also be letting air into the system. This bike is like a 2016 model so seals could be wearing out too. @@FirstTimersCycling

@@arthurleal2674Yup, sounds like you are mechanically savvy to get to the bottom of this! You wouldn't have to be riding to see the rotor bending. You can be at a stand still, pull the lever and see if the rotor bends to one side. The symptoms you are describing definitely sounds like air in the system or of a seized piston. You're right, it is a possibility that air might be in the system but like I said before, you should feel sponginess at the lever.

I get you. I figured as much just from trying this gear ratio. I've since changed the rear cog to a 28T and it spins a lot faster. Of course a nice 3spd IGH would be awesome.

I get that but it should be fine as long as you are also putting in power yourself. That way it really doesn't get bogged down much at all. If you use it like a scooter yes it would wear it out quick

@@MB-jz3uu Makes total sense, and yes I do pedal and leave the PA at the lowest setting. I rarely let the Bafang power itself for me 🙂

The brand is called Biria but the frame style may have changed now. Here's the site biria.com/series/citybike

Lots of available trails here in Topanga State Park but yeah, we were flying lol. Nobody crashed. Santa Clarita has some nice trails as well. Ride safe!

Oh wow, it hasn't gotten to that here yet. But in the mountain trails, we do have cops monitoring ebikes as motorized dirt bikes. That we have to watch out for.

Hi there, the bike is only pedal assisted and will not roll without pedaling unless you're rolling down a hill. No throttle capabilities for this bike.

It's been a while since I've been on this trail. It might just be an empty bowl instead of a pond now lol 😅.

Hey, I'll have to ask Alvin to try it as his bike was the one we tuned. I'll get back to you when I hear back. In the meantime, make sure the app is up to date and see the reviews for the app to see if others are experiencing the same thing.

Are you talking gear ratio?

Yes @@FirstTimersCycling

I wouldn't advise it. The battery doesn't last as long unless you are mainly riding on flat ground. Any hills you would ride throughout your routes would kill the battery.

@@FirstTimersCycling ok thanks

Thanks for that info!! Im happy to hear there is a closer way to get there, thanks!

If I'm understanding you correctly, it sounds like you have a cut in the wire? If so, you'd have to extend it with the same gauge wire. I would use solder to connect the wires instead of crimp ties just so the connection is secure. That or, take the bike to a shop that works on ebikes.

This is the Spider gear adapter I was talking about that I'm using. It allows me to use front chainrings for the rear with BCD of 104. As long as you have a splined rear, this adapter should work.

On my dual hub awd bike I prolly do need a chain tensioner like that. Chain popped off couple times on trail and I got it back on. Whenever I do get my bbshd. I’m only gonna use it for the hills

Hello and thank you for your question! What you feel is how we feel with the BBSHD 1000w Bafang setup. From PA1-PA9 after a certain mph/kph pedal assist will stop until you switch to the next gear. What we think is the motor may be load sensing or rpm sensing so it can detect when to shut off assist to conserve power. Unfortunately, I don't think this is a setting we can change. Might have to direct this question to Bafang tuners out there. I only know of one called Golden Motor where we use their Bafang tunes to up the power delivery on the motor. I hope this helps!

@@FirstTimersCycling Thank you for your swift and detailed answer. I really appreciate you help and suggestion. I will have a look if Golden Motor could have an answer.

@@joaomarveloso1049 You're welcome!

A 36t front chainring and a 22t rear should suffice. But if you get the spider gear adapter like I have in another video, you can go even higher in the back. 36 front 28 rear should be all that you would need with a Bafang motor. You'll be climbing very easily at PA1 or PA2 assist without overheating the motor. Your speed on flats would take a huge hit but you'll be climbing like a bat out of hell lol

@@FirstTimersCycling that’s what I was needing to know for certain thank you. There’s a popular ebike company that builds single speeds for hunting setups that use exactly what you described in this comment. I could care less for speed. I don’t mind to pedal. But places I go I need a climber.

@@aeestep77 What's that ebike company? I'd like to check them out.

@@FirstTimersCyclingthe company is called stealth hunting ebikes. They have a UA-cam channel as well. Showing some of the steep climbs their bikes will do without pedaling. One video shows a bike climbing a sky lift hill no pedaling. I think that particular bike is a 7 speed on their website

@@FirstTimersCyclingwhat is the spider adapter? New to e-bikes. That something I’ll need for the rear cog

And some pedals lol. For a very inexpensive ebike with cheap parts, there really isn't that much you would want to throw on it. Better to get a better packaged ebike at that point. But bars and pedals made a difference. To each their own I guess.

I'm no longer set up with the Bafang, but during the time this episode was shot, I was 46t front chainring and 34t rear single speed. To be honest, the Bafang is so powerful that I could have gone with a smaller rear cog to gain a higher top speed. I just stayed with the 34 rear because I wanted better climbing while staying on a lower power assist. In my mind, I felt it would conserve battery life and the health of the motor.

Yup! Great tip for everybody, thanks!

Glad you enjoyed and found it helpful! I'm afraid I would make Chainlift look bad with how much I was struggling lol. Just wanted to show a true first timer video of using the device. Also on their videos, they had clamp brakes instead of disc which makes it 10x easier. Disc brakes which are on most newer road bikes were a little harder to get the wheel on. With more use, you'd get the hang of it though!