Відео

50ft long by 15ft wide was the infield.

@@ChrisPatrickRC thank you so much for the info. Can't wait to finish my track

@@lloyderc thanks for the compliment. I do the best I can to explain without going crazy technical and neerdy

Thanks for the feedback, glad you enjoyed the video.

Thanks for the kind words and watching my video!

You could, but 1 run woundlt be enough to get one broke in , plus you have no data to compare that motor against another to know if the motor is good or not. I know some people that would go threw 10 motors just to fund 1 good race motor.

Glad to have helped you!

Just buy a new hobbywing esc that runs lipo and a brushed motor like a 1080 I think is the model and be done with it Nimh is way to outdated to even buy. Lipo are cheap and so much better.

just have fun and dont get discouraged. i still run this setup for the most part , but i only run a 2 tracks so your track my differ from me. ive also learned the car likes to be level for ride height or 1 up in the rear. and dont be affraid to stay near kit setup. kit setup works wounders too. just change springs of course. Also i would suggest changing bodies to something with more aero nose heavy , example a shark body or if your on a larger track, a decked body works great for the faster speed allowing more air to hit the rear spoiler... yes it matters...

3d scan the body and create your own. Thats what most business do

no there is not , some people are able to figure it out based on driveline footages but the biggest issue is , theres too many variables. air temp, motor timing, esc timing, tread on tires (tires are different sizes) , motor turn. example. i may be running a hobbywing xr10pro with a 10.5 t motor and you could be running the same esc with a 8.5t motor. i would be a tooth or two higher then you because of rpm range. but you could take the same motor and esc and i could add settings like boost , then i could cut that down another tooth. thats why theres no magical number. The best advise i can give you is simply ask some racers in your class what gear there running, and start near that spot. run about 15 laps and check your motor temp, shoot for around 120 degrees. you can adjust gearing, can timing and boost on esc to achieve these parameters. i know this is a lengthy answer , because there is no great answer.

Removing the seals and trimming them down is actually proven to be less resistance then ceramics. The issue is maintance, you gotta keep them clean so there happy. So if you don't want to do that, then don't, but running a spec motor class it will matter. As for tires no, I'd just run slicks in a hard compound , I've been racing rawspeed slicks on super soft compound but im on clay and loose dirt tracks. Best advise is go to your track and talk to people racing and see what they suggest. But rawspeed slicks will do you well once you find the compound that works for your track, track and air temps are a huge variable, so if its warm and super grippy I'd probably start with soft long wears.

And quick answers to setup, -2 and 2 on the front. -2 and 1 on rears . Adjustable rear steer -6 and 0 . Ride height around 19 keeping them level.

@@ChrisPatrickRC is there any place that post setup sheets like off road? ball stud spacing, shock position, oil, ball or gear, axle heights,. the carpet setup sheets from manufactures are details right down to tires, timing and electronics,

​@chuckstromain I havnt found one dedicated to oval , but I use the stock b6.x setup sheet offroad uses and just notated the missing details on the paper. I do it all on paper and not digital.

thanks for watching, camber is a very track specific topic which is why i didnt talk about it, but usually -2 LF and + 2 RF and rears are -2 and +3 you can run a bit more if you want to get some tire out of the track to help with grip as well. But again , every track is different so what works for me wont work for a flat track.

I run center c and d block because I use an adjustable arm , so no need to add more toe in when it can be added at the arm. Now you can add anti squat, which would be at the c block. 1 hole down staying in the center. And at the d block you can keep it center all around or up one. All comes down to how much anti squat you want.

@@ChrisPatrickRC Kool thanks. I'll try that and see how it works.

Yup... electric engine

I run a 4010 and a 306 and a x5 all running 1 12v power supply. My original charger which was a hitec 2 channel that needed 24v to get me the amperage over 20amps per channel at a time. Where if it was on a 12v system. Then it would only do 10amps per channel at a time.

But to answer your question. If you hook up your charger that "needs" 24v (which ichargers do not require) you can follow my steps in this video. Then the charger takes your 24v and chargers your lipos off that.

Your question is a bit confusing. I eliminate all air inside the shock so the shock is 100% fluid to provide the most consistent action possiable. That is called 0 rebound. You can get creative and run small springs inside your shocks to cause rebound. Or you can add limiters inside or outside to cause other actions like limiting droop. Shock game is a whole different level of tunning and is a subject for a entire video series explaining shocks.

Id just buy a slash , there cheap. But if I had to guess, chassis , shock towers maybe, and probably whole transmission assembly. I think arms and turnbuckle etc are the same though.

If your serious about tuning motors and trying to get repetitive results after cleaning and rebuilding motors , then yes. Or by a motorlyser , but just to see the power of a motor for 2 motors , nope.

@@ChrisPatrickRCI was debating on one because they are 65 rn on AliExpress straight from sky rc. And I run on road summer and off road during winter fall. And just want to make sure I tune my stuff a bit but unsure if it’s really beneficial

@MrNascarfan1 the proper way to tune a motor is check temps on your motor , either add more timing or gearing based on the longest jump or stretch , once you find the magic number, you toss it on the analyzer and test the motor accordingly. So when you tear apart the motor you can rebuild it back to how it was when you tore it apart. Too many people think there's magical numbers of amps , example. A trinity may draw 7 amps, a maclain may dar 6.2 amps. A reedy may draw 5.5 amps. Thats why , when people ask me what should I set it too, I always say there's never a magical number perfect for everything.

your right, but the point i try to make that most dont seem to understand, there is no "magic" number to set a motor. your suppose to set a motor based on the largest jump on the track your racing, or the largest straight away section. and tune your motor based on that and once you find what the motor likes to keep the temps just low enough to not melt a motor, thats the magic spot.

i didnt. it was just on my workbench in the background when this video was produced.

Isn't there a range to determine for a good motor to a better motor? Maybe a resistance check or something? I don't know.

there is and theres also a reason why you dont see that information online very easy, everyone does it different and shoot for different numbers, so what works for me and my program may differ for you and your program, plus the more you do this, the more your wearing in the motor so your going to wear the motor out faster. its a fine line of balance, and trial and error to find out what works for you. @@ThaneShaut

So what would be a good range for a 200 ft. roll out?

bigblock is open 13.5 but yes its close. they just use the juststock systems.

All depends on budget or expectations. Flysky gt3c is where I'd start, has a rechargeable battery pack so you won't have to fight with batteries. If you want to save $ go with the flysky gt3b , same radio just operates on aa's instead of a lipo pack. A futaba 3pv is a good option. A sanwa mx-6 another good option. Radiolink rc6gs is suppose to have one of the best range. So again , depends on what your budget is. And what quality your looking for. Thats where I'd suggest you start.

Also , are you near Cincinnati? And if so did you pick it up with a locked up motor? It might be this boat you watched as I sold it to a kid and he blew it up

@@ChrisPatrickRC I’m in AL, and a friends dad has had it for a few years, motor is fine. He just gave it to me and I wanna use it so bad. Also thanks for the fast reply! Very helpful

@@cadedavis8719 no worries at all and have fun with it Its a pretty fun boat, just make sure you have tuned the carb well and should run good for you.

Thanks for watching and glad I have helped. A few things have changed since this was made but not enough to justify a new series on it as its about 90% the same.

@@ChrisPatrickRC no worries. Just about built. Once my mounting kit comes in will start building the body cause I got a two piece one from mr Kustoms street stock. Can’t wait to race it next week I’m hoping for anyways

@@stevecarey4740 thats the same body i just switched too and seem to love it so far. just take your time fitting the body esp the top part to the main body, its also a thinner body so your going to want to run a foam front bumper to protect it some. but so far ive enjoyed it, i also enjoyed my old shark camaro body that took 2 years of abuse. if your on a smaller track i would recomend the shark , but if your on a larger track your giving up some downforce which is where the mrkustoms body adds. I choose to go with the open window model to give me the added aero downforce and its noticable in my opinion on larger tracks.

@@ChrisPatrickRC hey sir I’m racing tomorrow. What would you recommend for springs to start with. I have the custom works big bore springs, 32.5 weight in the all the shocks and it’s loose dirt track. My tires are old dirt webs. So may struggle at first but think I may have a good starting point. I also have the white/green factory team springs

@@stevecarey4740 your tires are going to kill you. Run the softest set of compounds you can find, if its truly a loose dirt, id run pins before id run dirt webs. As for springs , if your on a street stock buggy, id start with yellows on front and reds on rear, or yellows on left and reds on right. just depends on the track conditions mainly. i RARLY come off this combination for spring setup. shock oils sound good close with 32.5 as well.

Yes, just run a shorter amount of time. Will clean the brushes and com off by doing so which should help performance.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RH9468L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the smaller bottles and if you want a larger bottle then this link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793YY69D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1