Відео

Thank you very much for this video, which is most valuable and solved my jitter problem.👏😀

Hey Ron! do you have any way to receive messages for more specific issues with film? Would love your input/help

You are amazing, thank you so much!

Wow! Great job!

Wonderful! Great job! Thanks much!

had same problem, it was caused by the Takeup tension being too high, esp on larger reels. Simple fix, do not use the take up spool and just let it feed down into a box. Do not touch the film.. when finished, simply rewind it back on to the spool it just came off. Works every time.

I had noticed this issue too. Having better media didn’t fix it for me, but I only ever had issues with dark scenes on film. Looked like the sensor on the machine was not being scanned at the right time. I ended up just using the machine as a consistent advance timer and using egregiously expensive video gear (cinema camera and a macro lens) to record 2fps 8K timelapse video of the film running through a window taped to a tracing light like what artists use. Bunch of extra steps, but I got a consistent frame and stupidly clean 1080p renders.

It worked. Thank you, Sir. May God bless you 🙏

Fake warning has nothing to do with write protection.

Hm, and if you get the error (including the sound) if you have Super8 film in and it's set to Super 8 at the switch (I have the same model, but it's a "reflecta")?

Hello, Thanks so much for your video. Really helpful. I have a Reflecta Super 8 scanner and lately have had problems with the image. There seems to be a 'hotspot' where the light is more concentrated in the scanned image. It is a fixed point throughout multiple rolls. I imagine it is because the light is too close to the image at this point. Any idea how to fix this? Best, Jim

What programs are you using to edit the films with ? Thanks

does it work for 16mm?

The process is interesting. Always remember to use N-95 construction masks to prevent breathing the flaky powder. And not all films require to be prepared using WD-40. The curling iron will do two things. 1.) Soften the film back to flat. and 2.) Exacerbate the vinegar syndrome. Heat is an enemy of films that have VS. Question, after using the WD-40, does the film still emit a vinegar smell? Also how were you able to scan the entire frame whereas I see the additional picture area, above and below the frame lines?

Thank you sir! I didn`t know vlc can convert video files.

Thank you so much

Does it matter on the type SD/SDHC card as it pertains to ULTRA , ULTRA+ etc card as long as it is not more than 32GB

FWIW having tried the Magnasonic FS81, the Kodak Reels (version 2.0) is far superior. You can set the sharpness to near zero and get a much cleaner image for post-processing should you desire to add artificial sharpening to your digitized films using tools far superior to the crap software built into these cheap scanners. Zoom all the way out, centre your frame so you're capturing as much of the image as possible without all the digital zooming and cropping built into the scanner. Then crop, colour correct etc to your heart's content if you feel it necessary. The Wolverine/Magnasonic and all the other look alikes are IMHO worse than the Kodak which seems to be its own device.

OK I seem to have developed another problem. My Wolverine pro is only three months old now it seems like the pin the guides the film is getting stuck. The machine starts out fine then it gets to a point where the film stops in the machine and makes a grinding noise. I then get the check film path error message. The only way I can get the machine to work again is by taking a small screwdriver and pushing the pin one way or the other. Then it works for a while. But then it stops again I've gone so far is trying to run the machine without film and the same thing happens. The pin just sits there doesn't move and the machine makes a grinding noise. Any ideas

Thank you for your video. I had the same problem. I personally achieve the best results, using an "old" 8GB microSD card. One mechanical problem is the firm pull on the take-up reel. The pulling would also cause jitterring on my machine. My workaround is a clean box for the scanned film and wind it back on the reel after scanning. My scanner, original for 60m reels, allows to scan 120m reels in one piece when selecting 5" reel.

Couldn't figure out why my Reflecta refused to accept my SD cards. Regular format on my PC didn't work, so I tried to format in the Reflecta, but it got stuck on "Wait" for several hours. This video gave me the answer. Had to actively choose allocation size 32 or 64KB when formatting on my PC. Thanks a bunch! 🙏

You should stabilize the films, that way they are more professional looking.

Don't push the contrast on the professional telecine. It's gamma that you need (PC and video use different gamma, and it's often a real mess, making people believe 'contrast' would be missing when they're just not watching it on the right equipment with the right gamma). Because yo're using contrast instead, you're blowing out the highlights.

You did very well. 😊

Thanks for this great tutorial. My Wolverine take up has failed so miserably I now just spool the scanned reels into a box. I can live with that, but I have a major issue which may or may not be connected. Some Super 8 reels are massively juddering on the horizontal hold on playback, so the extent that the frames don't even all scan at the same length, let alone stabilised. Is this related or is there a fix? I wondered if it was the teeth not engaging with the sprocket holes but apparently this has happened to other people when the reels run through perfectly on a projector. Thanks if you have any advice!

Bonjour quel logiciel de montage utilisé vous ? Merci

You do not mention any possible ways to repair a jittery file that is already recorded. Do you know of any way to do this? I have spent about 45 hours digitizing family movies and do not want to repeat if possible.

Hello, I'll start like this! When I saw the clip and heard that it was due to the SD cards, what quality came out when digitizing! I was very doubtful. I bought the Lexar SD cards and tried them out. I use the Movie Maker Wolverine and am moderately satisfied. Some of them are 60 year old Super 8 and Normal 8 films. Some with a very elaborately created stereo soundtrack. The biggest worst problem is flashing - flickering. This is not in indoor shots but outdoors. With the Lexar SD and then the advice to digitize backwards, the problem has improved significantly. Reversing is also a good idea because the rear edge of the frame is relatively unused and thus ensures good feed. In general, I am grateful to many people online. There are films that were filmed on Agfa and are very catastrophic! On the internet, dealers write that it is mold, which is total nonsense. These are salt crystals because Agfa developed debtor's liability. Thanks to the channel “super8tovideo” and others online. Unfortunately it is not possible to write to the channel privately.

thanks!!

(Miloslav - 62 years old - Czech republic (Czechoslovakia ) Yes you are right. The problem can't be the card, it's more the excessive pull of the take-up reel. I had a Reflecta first, after reaching the 550 counter I bought a Wolverine. Reasons. 1. can 18 cm coils 2. the output is a video with a speed of 20 frames per second. In truth, the main reason was thing #3: the film is held in the film track by three points, not two. Although I had to order the Wolverine directly in the US, it was not imported to Europe, but I think it was worth it. One more piece of advice: I use editing software Edius 9 - above all, an excellent image stabilizer. very necessary on 8mm films. Black and white level corrections will also help a lot. Sample: ua-cam.com/video/XfFgTFNv5k4/v-deo.html (public screening with audio recording - comments of the participants, mostly elderly people. Very handy for preserving not only visual memories... After all, those evenings have been called "Eight millimeter memories" for 5 years now.

Hi! I need some help, hope you'll know what to do... my Wolverine won't start either, I've worked with it for a whole year, 500+ files and today it just didn't start at all, I hold the power button and nothing happens, any idea about how to solve this issue?

Wow! Excellent video.

very helpful videos

G’day Ron 😎🏄‍♂️🌈🇦🇺

Great tips! Experience counts. 😊

I've been using the Wolverine for about 3 years now and have done well over a 1500 feet of 8mm film. I'm glad I purchased the machine for online sharing of our old home movies. Having said this, I must say if it weren't for editing the basic scan in PowerDirector I would have returned the Wolverine for a refund. Without denoising in PowerDirector, etc., the scans are horrible. The Wolverine pixelates and blurs the images. But with a small onscreen viewing it's tolerable after denoising.

Thank you so much for the advice. I bought an old 8mm family film that was so brittle it would jam in the projector. Hopefully WD40 will do the trick.

Thank you!!

Your videos have been super helpful while trying my Wolverine for the first time! I ran into this exact same issue and was worried my unit was defective. This short saved the day! Thank you again!

Just found your channel. I just bought a Eyesen 8/Super 8 Movie Digitizer. I have a box full of film my Dad took from about 1967 to 1981 I want to convert. I hope I can learn from your channel. I loaded the first reel, but it's not feeding correctly. I gonna check the alignment tomorrow and try again.

Just out of curiosity, what was the render time for AI upscle? No idea if you kept track, but I'm finding programs like Topaz to take a VERY long time to render 1min of video.

What can I do if it still comes up with the same error after formatting the card?

Genius! Thank you. An even easier solution is to just change the saved location to maybe just the desktop. It worked for me. I then moved it back to the original folder manually afterwards.

I've been transferring tons of these 8mm and Super 8. Sometimes it's the advancer mechanism that seems to be jamming. Because the left side is rolling freely. The right side is just trying to advance the film to roll it up. It just gets locked up. A lot of times I can predict that it's going to start locking up because it starts to make subtle tigntening noises. (I don't even mean the crank noise... it just sounds like something is slowing down, and then the crank noise comes in) edit: I have a Wolverine machine Ok...I just tried something, and it seems to have worked, although you have to sit there and hold a reel. But at least it saves from having to redo the transfer or stitch them together in an editing program. For me, the problem is the middle advancer/clicker thing that moves the film is getting stuck or off sync. But this combined with the right hand reel trying to advance the film along and reel it onto the reel lol. So, the middle advancer is tripping up, but the right reel is pulling it, making things worse. So what I did was hold the right reel and stop it from continuously advancing. So the film on the right side is being fed through, but not getting taut. But allowing the right reel to put the film onto the reel (I don't know how to not repeat "reel" because it's a noun and a verb). Put simply, slow the right hand reel so it's not pulling on the middle advancer if it starts to trip up. It's kind of painstaking, but it seemed to work for me when it gets stuck. I haven't tried the lithium grease as mentioned in the post below. I may try it. Although, this problem doesn't happen for every reel. I've gone through some reels with no problem.

My Kodak Reels (probably same manufacturer) had the lens badly focused. Had to open the unit, remove the inside to pop off the cover (luckily separate little plastic lens cover), then mount the inside back in with the little PCB with the lens (unlike the Wolverine it's luckily a separate PCB) sticking out now. It allowed me to remove with care the glue blob and now I can adjust the focus by turning the little lens cover. You are however giving me an idea ... need to see if I it wouldn't be possible to mount the PCB on a sliding rail so I can zoom and focus physically and not digitally. Not that it will stop the scanner from crapping up the quality of the scan through it's automatic software adjustments and compression into MP4...

Thank you ever so much Ron. I was just about to open up my Wolverine when I looked up possible diagnostics in Google and found your post. WOW. IT WORKS... Bought a coupla cards on the 'Net. Just had the expected small difficulties in formatting (I Use Mac), had to reset the Wolverine and Voilà. No shaking any more. A million thanks. Brian

When I repair brittle/curled film reels, i take my MAIER-HANCOCK 8-16 MM PROFESSIONAL HOT SPLICER and place it in between my film reminders and use the heat which is specific at designed for splicing and fusing film cement to straighten it out. Sometimes I need a hair iron, but I do also use the device to fuse Film separation with Film cement. Hope this makes sense!

I’m still watching your video, and am at 5:39 talking about film separation. I own a small film transfer and restoration studio. I personally use Film splicing cement when I see this separation, along with a very small heat to fuse it together. Works great!

Great work!

Thank you! This solved my problem!