Відео

@darkscorpion5714 i will try to find the build sheet, but I may have sent it to the new owner with the truck.

@@exhaustinglife Awesome, that would be great if you could, thanks

It is a trim specific option however can be added via MOPAR parts. It is included with all Rubicon JL Wranglers

The fog lights are Baja Designs XL-R Sport lights and depending if you have a ZR2 Bison (like mine) or non-Bison these will fit the round holes with a number of different mounting kits. The exact lights are the Baja Designs XL-R Sport in Amber (wide) product #570015 If you want the mounting kit that i have its an AEV Conversions product #38060000AA

Happy to help out. I could not find a complete video that had all the tricks and tips in one place.

if you are referring to the alignment "puck" for the rear track bar mount it is a proprietary part specifically created for the AEV product line. Looking at the instruction guide is its part "8" in the diagram - www.aev-conversions.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/AEV30344AL.pdf

I made a 0.50" (1/2") spacer our of some 1.25" aluminum round bar stock.

Thank you and I just tried to create what I felt was useful to me in my build.

It's definitely not a difficult installation but its one that just needs a little focus and attention.

It is running the MagnaFlow Overland Series cat-back exhaust. It's a straight through 3" system that has no annoying drone and helps support every thing from stock to the supercharged powertrain I had.

Travelling light was a big part of the program. I by no means created a feather weight but I also tried to respect the maximum payload recommendations of the truck which were 1250 lbs. (If i recall correctly) The biggest thing to remember is that that OEM payload includes passengers (yes, you the driver too,) cargo / equipment (everything in the back seat, in the bed and on it) and tongue weight. 1250 lbs goes fast. The fiberglass topper route saves a bit of weight compared to a full size RTT. I think the ARE z Series topper I had was 140 lbs. vs a typical full size RTT tips the scales nearer 200 and 250 lbs is not uncommon. The 35" spare tire with bead lock and Rig'd Ultra swing were a good deal of the weight (100 lbs for the wheel and tire, 65 for the swing + another 10-25 for the rotopax or powertank) The Roam rooftop cases with recover gear, tools and camp supplies clicked off another 120-130 lbs. The rear seat deletes and goose gear dropped about 45 lbs but my load out easily ate that up.

@@exhaustinglife thanks for replying. I am with you, the maximum payload capacity is not a lot, that's why I am sometimes a bit surprised when I see some setups. It feels like their weight must be through the roof. I am still waiting for my allocation to order the Truck. It's now about 1.5 months of waiting...

No shame in that. We all have our limitations and available time but that's why there are professionals.

Good question. I would imagine the front wheel would have to come off but ... maybe?

@@Brianthejohnson the Mallet calibration shuts off AFM as a requirement of supercharging.

Ha! I haven't seen that show in ages... it has the full audience laugh track ..I should look into that.

@@exhaustinglife you’re doing fine just the way it is! Remember, if the women don’t find you handsome, they should at least find you handy!

The geometry correction is something all can benefit from however some arms introduce different bends and arc paths so you just need to be careful and cycle the suspension without the springs to make sure evening clears though out the new geometry and new arms.

If you are referring to the nitrogen charge, no it remains the same pressure. The front adjustable valve on the reservoir should allow more flow to soften the ride.

Thanks for keeping up with the channel. Almost all the gear bags are 5.11 "Tactival Convoy Packing Cubes" and they came in several sizes but we're intended for luggage. I just found the sizes very handy. I think a good many are discontinued except the DOPP variant, which is still a good size.

The ZR2 has a specific model as does the variant with the adjusters. 2017+ ZR2 with Adjusters (FRONT) 25001-192A 2017+ ZR2 with Adjusters (REAR) 25001-193A

Mobil 1 is dexos approved.

Yes. there is a panel along the back that covers the access to the card.

I never use the back seats so it fit my situation but if I had to put them back it's very easy to do that in 30 mins.

Glad it helped

If you are referring to its use in my supercharged application, I had to modify the OEM air box in accordance with Mallet's instructions. Without the air box modifications it would pose a CFM intake limit under the higher boost setting i was running.

I felt they were worth while, especially at the pricepoint.

Thanks!

Good luck! and let us know how it turned out.

@@exhaustinglife It turned out pretty amazing! I will likely be unlocking the TCM to get the shifting dialed in just a little better, but the driveability is way better. The airbox had plenty of room to run the PCV lines and I used breather filters in the ends of the hoses to keep them from sucking in debris. One tip I would suggest is that while you have your intake manifold off during the installation, it's not a bad idea to replace your fuel injector nozzle seals (2 little O-rings per injector). They're a known failure point on the 3.6 and the fuel rails are way down in the valley. It's not much extra work and the parts are cheap, as is the installation tool. If they fail after the fact, you'll be pulling out that supercharger...not exactly fun. Otherwise, I'm totally happy. It tows way better and gets better fuel economy in all conditions...other than when I'm stomping in it. With the massively improved acceleration and passing ability, it behaves like I have a hearty V8 under the hood, which is what the Bison really needs.

My only other choice was at the time the GMPP UCA. The whole reason I went to Camburg to encourage them to develop this part was because I didn't want anything else that was available in the market at the time. I wanted an adjustable upper to compensate for the caster needs and still have adjustment to minimize bump steer with extended geometry (when you remove the droop stop.) I also wanted to to have the larger uniball (1.25") that no one else offered for the Colorado / Canyon UCA market. Ultimately, I wanted to replace the Uniball with one of their Camburg 1.25" X Joints (High Articulation Sealed Ball Joint) in the same arm and was hoping if they saw enough interest the Kinetik Billet Version. If I didn't push for the Camburg part I would have been looking for the features I mentioned above: 1. Billet construction 2. Adjustable pivots (heim) at the frame 3. Sealed high articulation ball joint

I am not sure that you do. Most of the HD hinges are fine so long as the center plate area can allow for the connection point of the turn buckle that attaches to the swing. Send me some pictures or a link to the kind of HD set-up and ill see if I can overlay some data. I'm pretty good with CAD.

Glad it helped out.

There are lots of way to get bigger tires to fit but each comes with a cost. Either more money or a sacrifice to geometry or function.

It certainly is a chore and I am a little spoiled having come from the full size world where two pull pins after opening the hood was all that was needed.

Peak Suspension makes 2 kinds for this truck.

It just depends on how much you are able to drain. How flat the ground is when you drain and the temperature will determine how much actually comes out. This amount is what I typically have left but that's based on what puts the oil level to 3/4 the hashed area on the dipstick on level ground after about 30 mins. You should be bathing what's left on your measurement at the dipstick.

Outside temperature has nothing to do with how much oil comes out. Engine temperature does that. Warm engine when changing oil.

I don't think I said "outside" temperature anywhere. Yes, physics agrees hot oil flows faster and it's why I mentioned it.

I have tried a few brands and seen some better than stock results but nothing quite does it right with a great cut-lines and no weird shadows or light bleeding. With all that said, more white light and greater output alone are probably good enough for most.

@@exhaustinglife In my case, these are purely for on-road performance. For the signal, marker, reverse, and stop lights, it wasn't even close. LED wins hard on those. For the headlamps, I can see room for debate. I have Baja Designs ditch lights, chase lights, and a light bar for trail work.

@@JoeMoutard you are exactly right, I was staying on the topic of the headlights. I had run the Baja Designs Squadrons, XL and S8 forward facing lights to make up what the OEM lenses could not do.

@@exhaustinglife To be fair, I'm actually using your build as a primary education source for my own. The Mallett kit that's been sitting in my garage for way too long goes in this weekend.