Відео

which usb audio adapter with low latency is suggested ? Is this asio spec ?

One last thing i learned... This deck was never and i mean never meant for the average layman's tech to work on.. This was meant for ONLY nak authorized techs to work with. In order to properly test and calibrate this complex record cal algorithm, you need a special test jig that plugs into the 6 headers on the CPU-A board to run diagnostics, do calibration and programming etc... There is literally NO way to work with this deck with record issues like this without it and this kind of jig is long long unobtainable.. So i am pretty much done on my end with the one i am working on.

So.... i was able to find out why this deck wont record out of the gate... The design aspects of this deck requires that you need to run the "auto calibration" and have at least 1 preset data in storage that it gets from the auto cal to allow the bias circuits to turn on in record.. In other words.. the deck is designed that it will not allow you to just pop a tape in and press record like all other decks do.. until the deck knows what the tape bias, level, and EQ is during an initial calibration sequence. You do this by putting the deck into record pause and then pressing the "run" then while holding run press play. It will run the azimuth first then do bias, then level, then EQ with alternate flashing lights.. once done it will rewind the tape back to counter 0000 that it sets automatically when the cal process begins. You can then enter that parameter into one of the "tape memory" presets (1 thru 4). You will need two AA batteries installed in order for the preset to be put into memory or you will get a flashing error on the sequence of lamps. It appears that only THEN it will allow the 105khz bias to run during normal record once it knows what data from the preset to send to the bias and the record amp logic circuits to tune all three of those parameters to the tape it just did a calibration with.... There is a manual mode that one can use to go beyond the preset data from the auto calibration mode that allows you to manually set dolby and tape eq of 70 or 120Us and three preset bias modes. With my unit however i keep getting an error of all 6 sets of flashing lights during the auto calibration sequence so there is issues remaining that will not allow me to do a normal record. This deck is insanely and needlessly complex but then again this deck was made for the recording connoisseur who wanted the perfect recording and to have a computerized algorithm set up and calibrate it all for them. The closest design Nak did after this was the CR7A

All the kids in my old neighborhood (when this song came out), girls included, could out-belch this sorry perfomance with EASE.

Ok i discovered more... and sorry if this is so darn complex cause This is a insanely complex deck! After much schematic digging with the insane amount of logic circuits I have determined the circuit i mentioned in my previous post is specifically used to set an initial fixed bias during the auto azimuth procedure. They use a series of "latch" circuits to switch on and off various and complex functions with this bias circuitry. IC809 pin 10 and 11 do just this when the A3 (azimuth procedure ) drive goes high during the initial auto azimuth procedure. It then switches off and IC807 pins 5 and 6 act as a flip flop which in turn allows IC808 pin 13 to go high and allow the bias 105Khz to switch thru IC808 pin 11 which feeds IC101 and 102 on pins 3. I get a nice clean 105Khz square wave going in during regular record (IC 101 and 102 are independent Left and right bias end point calculation algorithm circuits which thru numerous lines of input latches drives various amplitudes of this 105Khz signal to the bias oscillator drive) which now tells me these two IC's are responsible for directly providing the 105Khz square wave to the bias oscillator NOT IC 809 pin 10 and 11 using a complex algorithm that adjusts the levels for what the circuits calculate during the calibration procedure .. IC809 pins 10 and 11 (which are talked about in this video ) are ONLY used to provide a fixed signal for the 1st phase of Auto Azimuth when using it in combination with the run function and is used for the quick initial azimuth calibration. It is a very very complex logic design which honestly is way over the top to understand for even most average techs because nakamichi has ZERO theory of operation in their service manuals so it is indeed a logistical nightmare to work with! So I have been able to determine that when i am in record i AM getting the 105Khz square wave to IC 101 and 102 on pins 3 and Q101 and 102 shunt to ground transistors are turning off so they are NOT preventing the 105Khz from passing thru.. so now its a matter of what is causing IC101 and 102 to not feed bias during a simple request for record. When i run the auto azimuth adding the "run" function both IC's briefly drive output with two levels to the bias oscillator so the chip is capable of driving but something is keeping it off otherwise and that now flows thru a whole complex network of other latches and logic circuits which is making this task even more exhausting.. The Auto azimuth with "run" when evoked never finishes it's calibration cycle because the Osc dies out when it shouldn't due to the main logic issues so it sits there and does nothing more....More to follow...

I know this is a bit late.... but i found this video today as I am working on the same 1000ZXL with the exact same problem and found you and several others are having this same odd issue. Mine had no issue with the primary osc and i had my 52Khz erase the whole time but no 105Khz osc for the record osc for the record heads.. just like you...What i was able to find out is that IC 809 pin 8 and pin 13 must go high in order for pins 10 and 11 to pass the osc signal thru that IC. This is fed from a line called "A3 enable" which comes from IC 509 on the logic board pin 4. A3 is short for Auto azimuth. I have been able to ascertain if i start the auto azimuth sequence it causes this low line to go high (12V ) which in turn makes IC809 pin 8 to go high and then pin 10,11 now have a nice clean 105Khz square wave feeding the record osc input. I therefore get 105Khz sine wave at the record heads but this ONLY happens when the auto azimuth runs. The issue is that i ONLY get record bias when this function is turned on and once i start running it.. it just sits there and does nothing else. it doesnt seem to follow any sequence which is telling me there is another deeper level logic issue going on elsewhere and this bias issue is one of the side effects of another problem. This deck is so darn needlessly complex and just like so many others, its one issue after the other after the other! So far i have not been able to find any other connection source to cause this line to go high other than the flip circuit fed from the auto azimuth logic circuit. More to follow....

Dedicated to rob belcher of the dodgers

LOVE IT ! 🎵🎵

I can do this

Good video I found that shorting the spring does not work for very long can work as a short time fix . Unfortunately the spring is not very long and would have been nice it was designed w a longer one also that whole assembly is related to each other, if the idler tire is to long it will not shift from RW to FF and Play. Spring to weak will not spin or weak torgue.To strong and will not shift from FF to Play or Play to FF (get stuck) also the break spring also has opposite down pressure that also can also can be cause. Have you ever broke the Cassette hold down clip? it also can break when taking off or the black plastic can also break ( I feel like, to much pressure and it will break but you need a lot to get it off)

Depending on the audio interface you are using, you can use the mic preamps or input gain settings on that to boost the output level of the cassette deck. There is going to be a small noise penalty but that is of no consequence for the W&F measurement.

Very enjoyable and informative video

Hello. Do you have a link where I can find the documentation to redo the mylar? I'm not clear how to give the right mechanical tension to the Mylar and what to use for the coating. Thanks again.

Hello. Do you have a link where I can find the documentation to redo the mylar? I'm not clear how to give the right mechanical tension to the Mylar and what to use for the coating. Thanks again.

Hi there, ive just purchased a Denon tape deck, im using a Denon 2700. Ive already hooked up a tuner, phono and CD but im unsure what i plug the RCA into as no dedicated source for the tapedeck ,any info would be appreciated, thanks

Still love this makes me chuckle 😂

Hi. I have exactly the same model. I'm in UK and I can't find belts... Any other models have the same? Thank you

What talent Alfred possesses. 🎵👍

Hi sir, when I turned up volume of quad ESL63, but the sound dropped. Do you know how it happened and have any advices for solution? Thanks in advance.

Very good tutorial although I wouldn’t use oil on the nylon gears as they’ll probably crack at a later date. Also although you can close the tray by pushing it it’s not recommended.

On mine the tension arms needed adjustment but I did not heed the warning, kept playing it and 2 fuses blew. So now I believe something has shorted and now it's gonna need troubleshooting and cost more for repair. The arms tension must be in spec absolutely are nothing will work right! It might act like it wants to but it won't and will eventually mess up

You were instructed to punch a hole in the middle of the record with a pencil, or to shoot a 45 cal bullet through the middle of the record for that purpose!

I remember them releasing this on a CD at one point in an issue and loving it to pieces, RIP to MAD

My friends, cousins and I used to play this over and over, laughing crazily each spin. Ahhhh! Youth!😏

I was there and it was a great time. Gerry Pantazis on drums too ! Met Russell Morris after the show, a truly fine gent happy to share a photo. Pity the video was short :(

Still better than a NIckleback song.

Hello! I am your subscriber! I recently bought a TEAC X 2000m in Germany, a very good device! But there is a problem! It turns out that it now works only at 19 and 9 speeds! But it was made for 38 and 19 speeds! I removed the back cover and saw that it has only one belt! Please write, maybe this is the problem??? Thank you, with respect, Nikita!

Hi Moggy, Thank you for this video. I bought the CT-F900 back in 1978 and used it for a month when it started to shut off while in play. At that time, I had the unit repaired at Pioneer's service center whereby they replaced the idler wheel. The unit worked for another week before the tapes began shutting off again. I had it "repaired" one more time at a Pioneer-authorized center, and within a week, same problem. I boxed up the virtually new unit in its original packing, and only recently opened up again. It's a beautiful unit, still in mint condition. Based on your videos and others, I carefully cleaned the reel motor. That worked for a few months, before the tapes were playing too slowly. I then shortened the idler spring per this video, because the idler wheel did not have enough upward force, however, it's still not forceful enough. Do I need to shorten the spring further, or is there something else, perhaps the other spring that is on the axel of the lower part of the idler assembly?

Moggy, thanks so much. Regarding your own ZX-7. When the BIAS oscillator blew up in smoke back then, did you have to replace transistors or resistors too or was it just 1 or 2 damaged capacitors?

Hi 👋🏼 😊 beautiful cd 💿 player and new subscriber👍🏼👽

I was planning on buying this NAK next week. Does it make sense (from the head and NOT the heart!) to spend hard-earned money on a deck that requires regular maintenance and upkeep? Since I don't do much recordings now, is it advisable to go in for it? Incidentally, if I do buy it, it will be a huge jump up from my present NAK CR2E.

will you replace the belts to my nana zx7 and please let me know how much before I shipped to you thanks

Where in this small Blue Marble did you get that "tape tension" test cassette. I have never seen on of them! Very nice!

I thought of this record for some reason, I remembered having it but didn’t remember what it sounded like so I looked it up. Positive proof that you can literally find absolutely anything on UA-cam.

I didn't know you could use this tape deck with a remote control

I've got one of these, serviced it myself. As you rightly say, adjusting the tape heads & guides is complicated..

Super!❤

Hi, Let me first thanks you for your sharing so much practical information on quad loudspeakers. Your video's inspire me to proceed with trying to by a pair of esl 63. Something that left me wandering; does it make sense to move the full range panels on top and the 2 bass panels at the bottom? Does is lift up the sound image? Is it feasible from a practical perspective? Many thanks for any feedback your would be able to share! Kind regards, Michel

4:47 At this point you should go to “Advance” tab below!

That issue of mad magazine hard to find

I discovered this cardboard record inside my MAD Magazine when I was a kid. I took a break from listening to The Beatles and The Rolling Stones and played this little cardboard record on my record player. It was a gas!

Hi Moggy interesting work you do here. Speaking your passive way of testing resonance I find your av. 83hz a bit low compared to quad writing a number (in Hz?) between 87 and 90 on some panels but not all. I could be wrong but these numbers cannot have been for a whole panel with active mesurements.

Please Help Another Questline "9-14 Playback Dolby NR Adjustment " same as CT-F900 Step 1- Done Step 2 -Done Step 3 - Pioneer "Apply a 1kHZ to 15 and 16 adjust the input level so the millvoltmeter indication becomes 0dbv (1v rms)" ** Redline -So set Generator output to 1.1 to 1.5v RMS? ** Than it would be at 1v and hopefully the Pioneer display meter would read 0DB ? Step 4 Please Help I'm Lost w this one ??? Pioneer "Apply an input which is 34DB below that of paragraph 3 above" OK so Adjusting the input volume down to what? (-34db=mv?) or is it -34dv= 20mv? The Pioneer DB meter only goes to -20db (ct-f900) I'm lost and not know were to put it impossible to do the next step? Step 5 Turn Dolby on Adjust VR107 and Vr108 to 1mv (-40db) I hope this makes sense Please Help Thank

Good Video I'm Calibrating a CT-F900 and at 14.83 in playback mode it says "Record and Playback -10dbv 333HZ (316mv),,,,,,,, Rotate VR107,vr108 and it all works but it say to after Maximum Level,, so lets say its at -5db(xx mv write down) than I should go down .5db?which would be -5.5db = (xx) MVac -5.0db =.56 and -5.5db =.53 so it is .03vac, I think this is Correct and set the vr107 to .53? (I think I'm figuring out what Pioneer meant, I like when they Pioneer Listed all the voltage but they missed a lot)

I was too nervous to use the screw/weight method. So I decided to loop some fishing line through the stator and tie weights as the glue was setting. Moggy. If you have an email or website I'll send you my pics to add to your knowledge archive. Thanks for making all these videos

I've got one of these. Just replaced the melted belts.

I just found one at the recycling center along with 2 other similiar. I took all 3 of them.

As this deck has a memory for the Autotune it may have an internal battery somewhere. If it has it may need changing.

can you share the diagram sir?

With the mod for extra protection using 2 1N5404 diodes inverse parallel, different manufacturers have different forward voltages, will this affect the accuracy of the readings?