I just had a similar issue with my X-1000M and it turned out to be caused by the capstan belt threading. The belt was installed going over the motor pulley instead of under it, and this caused the takeup capstan to rotate slightly slower than the feed one. Note that this is the opposite threading to that on the X-R series, and opposite to what the exploded view in the X-1000M service manual suggests. The symptom could be cured by increasing the tape tension or reducing the pinch roller pressure, but once I got the belt installed right then the problem completely disappeared with tape tension and pinch roller pressure set to the factory values. The X-R series regulate the speed difference between the capstans by having different flywheels and angling the motor drive shaft by washers installed under the motor, while on the X-M series the difference in speed is achieved through stretching of the belt by the motor torque, this is why the belt threading makes such a big difference with the X-M. I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere else, so I thought I would mention it in case your problem is related.
Hello from France. Regarding your doubts, I have an x1000r and in the user manual there is a small explanation regarding the double capstan. I assume it's the same for the 2000. I quote : "The most sophisticated method is the dual capstan closed-loop technique used in the X-1000R tape deck. The expertise and precision required has hitherto confined the method only to the costliest decks. How it works: The tape is kept taut across the heads by having two pinch rollers/capstans which rotate at very slightly different speeds; the capstan near the take-up reel rotates faster than the one near the supply reel. When the deck is used in reverse mode, the speed differential between the capstans has to reverse too. TEAC engineers invented a unique way to achieve this. The flywheels on the two capstans each have two zones of slightly different diameter. When the capstan motor reverses, the drive belt automatically repositions itself onto the correct areas of the flywheels to maintain the vital speed differential."
Yes, I've read that. Hello to France, I've been there a few times in my past and loved the provincial style. Fortunately Melbourne has a lot of outside cafes these days so we are catching up. :-) The tapered wheels is a novel method. I'm actually on the lookout for a 1000R or 2000R as I want to play my 3.75 (&7.5) pre-recorded tapes without changing sides. The only way I'll be sure is to actually measure the capstan and flywheel circumferences/diameters. It's possible that the 2000M has a slightly faster take-up capstan (as the service manual says) but it's such a slight difference that I don't see it. One clue that they are the same is that with enough capstan pressure the tape loops to give a certain loop and no more: if capstan speed were different then I would expect that the tape would be tight across the head no matter what. As I say, I need to measure the actual capstan and flywheel diameters. In the service manual they have the same part number whereas the other versions have 2 different part numbers. A mystery to be sure! :-( Thanks for commenting, perhaps we'll sort it out eventually. Anyway it's playing beautifully now.
@@850mk3 Hy, I checked in the service manual of the X1000R the 2 capstan wheels have a different reference, one for the right, the other for the left. So actually it seems to be different from the X2000. Weird, because seeing the videos the mechanics and the head blocks seem to be very similar. But anyway, can we really trust the manual, if we see that the block of heads drawn does not correspond at all to what is in the machine! Serious positioning error of the reading heads!
@@BernardMebs 850mk3 IS moggy, my other channel. I'd really like to measure all the capstans and flywheels for all these models but won't have an opportunity for some time. Packing to travel o/s soon. 2000, 2000R & 2000M seem to not be similar. ???? I don't believe we can trust the manuals, just yet.
There's a BIASED washer on the motor mounts, which puts the motor slightly OFF CENTER, which is requisite in making the belt do its little dance. If you MISS replacing the washer, or use another washer (it's noticeably thicker) or even place it on the wrong lug, it WILL NOT WORK. lol.
Thank you very much for the excellent explanations regarding pinch roller tensions. I'm working on an X2000R which had totally frozen pinch roller assembly an literally a melted belt. Disaster to clean off the belt. Put new belt on and the same problem with the tape getting progressively loose between the capstans occurred. I did the suggestion of loosening the tension and it seems to have fixed the problem. Thanks for the excellent advice. Now one problem remains which is the take-up side (right reel) won't go to full speed unless you move the tension arm ever so slightly downward. I suspect there is too much tension on the left side or two little tension on the right side. Not sure which but the capstans are not involved in this problem.
The 2000R is a bit different to my 2000M. A lot different. I'd love to get a 2000R in my future. Mikkel324 suggests threading to be an issue, something to verify! I have shown how the service manual is at odds with what I found regarding capstan speeds, I need to find out but this means disassembling mine again. I must measure the diams of both my flywheels and capstans to finally put my question to rest. I believe the 2000R uses "identical" flywheels and the moving belt alters the speed of each capstan as well as direction of course. Your loosening may have cured it in A direction but what about in B direction? Tensions are a problem, unfortunately the only real way is to use a Tentelometer which I fortunately managed to buy one earlier this year. Otherwise use common sense, suck it and see and try lots of different reel sizes. Fun for all !
@@MoggysHiFiAntics Yes, it appears the R is quite a bit different. The R has only one belt to start with. In answer to your question, both directions seem to be working fine regarding speed. The belt moves from front to back as described in the manual when you switch directions. The only problem left with the deck is the fast forward. Rewind is fine. The FF uses the voltage output of the optical sensor on the right tension arm to determine left motor speed. Pushing the right tension arm down ever so slightly increases FF speed to normal. I've watched a video by Big Matt on the subject whereby he says the output of the tension arm optical sensors should be 5 Volts in center position. This is exactly where they are on mine. However, the problem is that when the tape is loaded, both arms go below center ( as a result of the springs pulling them down) resulting in a lower voltage. I do not want to move the back plate as Big Matt suggested because I'm not sure what side effect that will have on the pinch roller/capstan combination which is working fine right now. In his case, clearly the outputs of the tension arms were well below 5 volts. On mine they are at 10 Volts in the center position. It's almost like the springs are too strong on that sensor arm which doesn't make sense. Per your comment about the flywheels, they do appear to be the same diameter on the R model. The difference in capstan speeds seems to be accomplished by having the belt ride on a slightly higher diameter ridge on either of the flywheels depending on which direction the tape is moving in. It's hard to believe but it appears to work. This machine belongs to my 89 year old uncle and has been sitting idle for 10 years. I've noticed that thing are improving as it runs more. If there are any ideas out there about the tension arm voltage output performance, I'd be happy to try them out.
This setting of the arm voltages is a bit strange to me. I may be wrong but the arms on my 2000M don't have a wiper arm indicating a variable voltage; they seem to be simple switches IIRC. 2000R may be different. Anyway, something to ponder over. 🙂 . Possibly the light interrupter gives 5v when light is half shaded, dunno. Sorry I haven't really gone into the lever arm issues. I'll be interested in hearing the final resolution. The 2000M will be one of my first devices to check in the new year, it sounds so wonderful. I have a recording fault to fix! Also, I need to do a final Naka1000ZXL vid. I'm now back home after 6 months o/s and am slowly getting back into the rhythm.
google translates this to "Can you replace the stained rubber, In the belt mechanism, on the right and left side? Is paralon suitable? 10milimeters?" I think you are asking if I should replace the capstan idler rubber wheels. I saw no reason to suspect they were not suitable or non-parallel to the capstan. They were good as far as I could see.
@@MoggysHiFiAntics I have a Tec x-20r model, reel to reel, From the right and from the left in the tape drive mechanism, were there stops on the back, was there rubber? or palalon, the tape drives rested against it, but it rotted from old age,
@@dimon2457 Never heard of the word "palalon" . If you mean the foam rubber stops for the arms either side then I did replace them with a suitable replacement, it's in an earlier video. It is a 1cm cube block of foam rubber simply used as an end stop for the arm. I don't believe it has any other useful purpose. IMO, only the springs could do anything "wrong" and they seem quite sturdy. So long as the photo interrupters work I have no concern about them. I'm always willing to learn more.
Now I understand the russian question better. See other reply but I did replace the two 10mm cube blocks of foam rubber. The originals had disintegrated to nothing.
@@MoggysHiFiAntics I understand you, thank you, Where can I buy such a rubber band? I'm Lithuania from Vilnius, 😀 , And the word paralon is a soft washcloth to wash the pass, I cut it into cubes of 10 millimeters and inserted it to stop pulling the tape, levers,
hi my mate got a tascam 32 i changed over to the 4 track heads i never ever had any thing with the tenson of the tape lift arms play up ever i am a big fan of the tascam 38 note 38 tascam are going bad now the main thing the logic pcb breaks ar opened up in 2 decks in the logic pcb i did a very big repair and the pcb break never open again used copper thin wirer where the copper tracks came of works ace now i said to my mate not to get the home decks as getting parts the logic can go bad on this model there's not alot in the deck at the back
I just had a similar issue with my X-1000M and it turned out to be caused by the capstan belt threading. The belt was installed going over the motor pulley instead of under it, and this caused the takeup capstan to rotate slightly slower than the feed one. Note that this is the opposite threading to that on the X-R series, and opposite to what the exploded view in the X-1000M service manual suggests. The symptom could be cured by increasing the tape tension or reducing the pinch roller pressure, but once I got the belt installed right then the problem completely disappeared with tape tension and pinch roller pressure set to the factory values. The X-R series regulate the speed difference between the capstans by having different flywheels and angling the motor drive shaft by washers installed under the motor, while on the X-M series the difference in speed is achieved through stretching of the belt by the motor torque, this is why the belt threading makes such a big difference with the X-M. I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere else, so I thought I would mention it in case your problem is related.
Hello from France. Regarding your doubts, I have an x1000r and in the user manual there is a small explanation regarding the double capstan. I assume it's the same for the 2000. I quote :
"The most sophisticated method is the dual capstan closed-loop technique used in the X-1000R tape deck. The expertise and precision required has hitherto confined the method only to the costliest decks.
How it works: The tape is kept taut across the heads by having two pinch rollers/capstans which rotate at very slightly different speeds; the capstan near the take-up reel rotates faster than the one near the supply reel.
When the deck is used in reverse mode, the speed differential between the capstans has to reverse too. TEAC engineers invented a unique way to achieve this. The flywheels on the two capstans each have two zones of slightly different diameter. When the capstan motor reverses, the drive belt automatically repositions itself onto the correct areas of the flywheels to maintain the vital speed differential."
Yes, I've read that.
Hello to France, I've been there a few times in my past and loved the provincial style. Fortunately Melbourne has a lot of outside cafes these days so we are catching up. :-)
The tapered wheels is a novel method. I'm actually on the lookout for a 1000R or 2000R as I want to play my 3.75 (&7.5) pre-recorded tapes without changing sides.
The only way I'll be sure is to actually measure the capstan and flywheel circumferences/diameters.
It's possible that the 2000M has a slightly faster take-up capstan (as the service manual says) but it's such a slight difference that I don't see it.
One clue that they are the same is that with enough capstan pressure the tape loops to give a certain loop and no more: if capstan speed were different then I would expect that the tape would be tight across the head no matter what.
As I say, I need to measure the actual capstan and flywheel diameters. In the service manual they have the same part number whereas the other versions have 2 different part numbers.
A mystery to be sure! :-(
Thanks for commenting, perhaps we'll sort it out eventually. Anyway it's playing beautifully now.
@@850mk3 Hy, I checked in the service manual of the X1000R the 2 capstan wheels have a different reference, one for the right, the other for the left. So actually it seems to be different from the X2000. Weird, because seeing the videos the mechanics and the head blocks seem to be very similar.
But anyway, can we really trust the manual, if we see that the block of heads drawn does not correspond at all to what is in the machine! Serious positioning error of the reading heads!
@@BernardMebs 850mk3 IS moggy, my other channel.
I'd really like to measure all the capstans and flywheels for all these models but won't have an opportunity for some time. Packing to travel o/s soon.
2000, 2000R & 2000M seem to not be similar. ????
I don't believe we can trust the manuals, just yet.
There's a BIASED washer on the motor mounts, which puts the motor slightly OFF CENTER, which is requisite in making the belt do its little dance. If you MISS replacing the washer, or use another washer (it's noticeably thicker) or even place it on the wrong lug, it WILL NOT WORK. lol.
And don't ask me how long it took to sort that out!!
Thank you very much for the excellent explanations regarding pinch roller tensions. I'm working on an X2000R which had totally frozen pinch roller assembly an literally a melted belt. Disaster to clean off the belt. Put new belt on and the same problem with the tape getting progressively loose between the capstans occurred. I did the suggestion of loosening the tension and it seems to have fixed the problem. Thanks for the excellent advice. Now one problem remains which is the take-up side (right reel) won't go to full speed unless you move the tension arm ever so slightly downward. I suspect there is too much tension on the left side or two little tension on the right side. Not sure which but the capstans are not involved in this problem.
The 2000R is a bit different to my 2000M. A lot different. I'd love to get a 2000R in my future.
Mikkel324 suggests threading to be an issue, something to verify!
I have shown how the service manual is at odds with what I found regarding capstan speeds, I need to find out but this means disassembling mine again.
I must measure the diams of both my flywheels and capstans to finally put my question to rest.
I believe the 2000R uses "identical" flywheels and the moving belt alters the speed of each capstan as well as direction of course.
Your loosening may have cured it in A direction but what about in B direction?
Tensions are a problem, unfortunately the only real way is to use a Tentelometer which I fortunately managed to buy one earlier this year. Otherwise use common sense, suck it and see and try lots of different reel sizes. Fun for all !
@@MoggysHiFiAntics Yes, it appears the R is quite a bit different. The R has only one belt to start with. In answer to your question, both directions seem to be working fine regarding speed. The belt moves from front to back as described in the manual when you switch directions. The only problem left with the deck is the fast forward. Rewind is fine. The FF uses the voltage output of the optical sensor on the right tension arm to determine left motor speed. Pushing the right tension arm down ever so slightly increases FF speed to normal. I've watched a video by Big Matt on the subject whereby he says the output of the tension arm optical sensors should be 5 Volts in center position. This is exactly where they are on mine. However, the problem is that when the tape is loaded, both arms go below center ( as a result of the springs pulling them down) resulting in a lower voltage. I do not want to move the back plate as Big Matt suggested because I'm not sure what side effect that will have on the pinch roller/capstan combination which is working fine right now. In his case, clearly the outputs of the tension arms were well below 5 volts. On mine they are at 10 Volts in the center position. It's almost like the springs are too strong on that sensor arm which doesn't make sense.
Per your comment about the flywheels, they do appear to be the same diameter on the R model. The difference in capstan speeds seems to be accomplished by having the belt ride on a slightly higher diameter ridge on either of the flywheels depending on which direction the tape is moving in. It's hard to believe but it appears to work.
This machine belongs to my 89 year old uncle and has been sitting idle for 10 years. I've noticed that thing are improving as it runs more. If there are any ideas out there about the tension arm voltage output performance, I'd be happy to try them out.
This setting of the arm voltages is a bit strange to me. I may be wrong but the arms on my 2000M don't have a wiper arm indicating a variable voltage; they seem to be simple switches IIRC. 2000R may be different. Anyway, something to ponder over. 🙂 . Possibly the light interrupter gives 5v when light is half shaded, dunno. Sorry I haven't really gone into the lever arm issues. I'll be interested in hearing the final resolution. The 2000M will be one of my first devices to check in the new year, it sounds so wonderful. I have a recording fault to fix!
Also, I need to do a final Naka1000ZXL vid.
I'm now back home after 6 months o/s and am slowly getting back into the rhythm.
My latest adjustment has been fine. I have played many many tapes since and all is well.
Здраствуйте, чем можно, заменить, згнившую резину, В лентопротяжном механизме, в правой и левой стороне? Паралон подходит? 10милиметров?
google translates this to "Can you replace the stained rubber, In the belt mechanism, on the right and left side? Is paralon suitable? 10milimeters?"
I think you are asking if I should replace the capstan idler rubber wheels. I saw no reason to suspect they were not suitable or non-parallel to the capstan. They were good as far as I could see.
@@MoggysHiFiAntics I have a Tec x-20r model, reel to reel, From the right and from the left in the tape drive mechanism, were there stops on the back, was there rubber? or palalon, the tape drives rested against it, but it rotted from old age,
@@dimon2457 Never heard of the word "palalon" . If you mean the foam rubber stops for the arms either side then I did replace them with a suitable replacement, it's in an earlier video. It is a 1cm cube block of foam rubber simply used as an end stop for the arm. I don't believe it has any other useful purpose.
IMO, only the springs could do anything "wrong" and they seem quite sturdy. So long as the photo interrupters work I have no concern about them. I'm always willing to learn more.
Now I understand the russian question better. See other reply but I did replace the two 10mm cube blocks of foam rubber. The originals had disintegrated to nothing.
@@MoggysHiFiAntics I understand you, thank you, Where can I buy such a rubber band? I'm Lithuania from Vilnius, 😀 , And the word paralon is a soft washcloth to wash the pass, I cut it into cubes of 10 millimeters and inserted it to stop pulling the tape, levers,
hi my mate got a tascam 32 i changed over to the 4 track heads
i never ever had any thing with the tenson of the tape lift arms play up ever i am a big fan of the tascam 38
note 38 tascam are going bad now the main thing the logic pcb breaks ar opened up in 2 decks in the logic pcb i did a very big repair
and the pcb break never open again used copper thin wirer where the copper tracks came of works ace now
i said to my mate not to get the home decks as getting parts the logic can go bad on this model there's not alot in the deck
at the back