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Montsweag Garage
United States
Приєднався 4 сер 2010
Welcome to Montsweag Garage, where a regular guy with a day job shares his passion for working on cars with you! Though I may not have decades of experience or a massive shop, I've got a cozy heated garage, helpful reference materials, and a strong work ethic. My mission is to inspire and empower anyone to tackle their own automotive projects and I will help you along the way. Join me on our journey as we release new videos at least once a month, showcasing our latest car projects and how to get them back on the road. Subscribe now and become a part of our growing community of DIY car enthusiasts! 🚘🎉
How To Make A DIY Engine Run Stand For a Small Block Mopar
I walk you through how I built my engine run stand out of scrap fence wood from behind my outbuilding. Many of you have asked about it so here it is! This is built to support a Small Block MOPAR but I am sure you can adapt it for other engines if you need to. If you found this useful let me know down in the comments!
PDF Instructions: drive.google.com/file/d/1oFeNL-OdRiXAeSJhIMXLHHBKUzCFa6co/view?usp=sharing
(00:00) Introduction: The video shows how to build a DIY engine run stand for a Small Block Mopar engine, with a downloadable PDF containing materials and step-by-step instructions.
(00:30) Tools needed: Impact driver, drill, various screws (3-inch wood screws, 5.5-inch structural screws), and lag bolts. The tools you use will depend on your hardware.
(01:09) Initial assembly: Begin with 26-inch 4x4s and five 28-inch 2x4s. Attach the 2x4s to the 4x4s using screws, ensuring the frame is square.
(02:56) Adding casters: Attach two fixed and two swivel casters to the base for mobility. Fixed casters go at the rear, and swivel ones at the front for ease of maneuvering.
(04:07) Attach supports: Install 28-inch 2x4s as top supports and brace with screws. Measure and mark for engine mounts, then attach using screws.
(05:36) Motor mounts: Attach motor mounts 5-16 inches from the ends using screws. Cross braces are added for stability.
(06:20) Final frame adjustments: Install a cross brace to support the structure, and ensure everything is squared and aligned.
(07:50) Rad support: Install radiator supports, making adjustments for fan clearance. Additional spacers are used for better support.
(09:26) Control setup: Mount a control panel using leftover materials for a 12V toggle switch, push button, and gauge pod (water temperature, oil pressure, tachometer).
(10:29) Conclusion: The stand is complete, with a final note on adding a transmission support. For further details on wiring, a separate video is referenced.
PDF Instructions: drive.google.com/file/d/1oFeNL-OdRiXAeSJhIMXLHHBKUzCFa6co/view?usp=sharing
(00:00) Introduction: The video shows how to build a DIY engine run stand for a Small Block Mopar engine, with a downloadable PDF containing materials and step-by-step instructions.
(00:30) Tools needed: Impact driver, drill, various screws (3-inch wood screws, 5.5-inch structural screws), and lag bolts. The tools you use will depend on your hardware.
(01:09) Initial assembly: Begin with 26-inch 4x4s and five 28-inch 2x4s. Attach the 2x4s to the 4x4s using screws, ensuring the frame is square.
(02:56) Adding casters: Attach two fixed and two swivel casters to the base for mobility. Fixed casters go at the rear, and swivel ones at the front for ease of maneuvering.
(04:07) Attach supports: Install 28-inch 2x4s as top supports and brace with screws. Measure and mark for engine mounts, then attach using screws.
(05:36) Motor mounts: Attach motor mounts 5-16 inches from the ends using screws. Cross braces are added for stability.
(06:20) Final frame adjustments: Install a cross brace to support the structure, and ensure everything is squared and aligned.
(07:50) Rad support: Install radiator supports, making adjustments for fan clearance. Additional spacers are used for better support.
(09:26) Control setup: Mount a control panel using leftover materials for a 12V toggle switch, push button, and gauge pod (water temperature, oil pressure, tachometer).
(10:29) Conclusion: The stand is complete, with a final note on adding a transmission support. For further details on wiring, a separate video is referenced.
Переглядів: 333
Відео
The Dart's Back Together. Now It's Road Trip Time!
Переглядів 2,3 тис.2 місяці тому
With Our 1967 Dodge Dart back together after major surgery, It's time for a road trip to Darling's 11th Annual Mopar Car Show in Augusta Maine! Join me as my wife and I make the short pilgrimage I have worked all year to get ready for!
The 360 Magnum Finally Goes Into Our 1967 Dodge Dart
Переглядів 1,2 тис.3 місяці тому
Today I'll be dropping the 360 Magnum into my 1967 Dodge Dart. I have a few things to take care of after repairing the frame rail. finishing installing the front suspension, prepping the engine bay for primer, spraying primer, and finally dropping the engine in the car. Join me through the ups and downs of getting this thing stuffed in the car.
How To Replace Upper Control Arm Mounts On A Mopar A-Body
Переглядів 4344 місяці тому
The upper control arm mounts on MOPAR A-Bodies are prone to rotting out. I demonstrate how I address this problem on my A-Body. I am using an aftermarket control arm mount/shock tower assembly I picked up from Classic Industries. I make my own jig to help keep the new part in the correct place. I hope it's helpful!
I Really Wanted The Dart To Be In This Car Show
Переглядів 4025 місяців тому
My wife and I travel to Bath, Maine for the 50th Annual Front Street Shuffle Car Show. While the Dart is not ready for the road yet, we can still bring you along to check out some of our favorite rides.
Why Haven't You Seen Me?: Latest Dart Things
Переглядів 8855 місяців тому
I've been away from UA-cam for a few weeks and today I let you in on why. I also bring you up to speed on where things stand with our 1967 Dodge Dart, both present and future.
Somewhat Okay Refresh Of A One Year Only Dash Pad
Переглядів 6617 місяців тому
Instead of shelling out $500 for a replacement, I try my hand at recovering the one year only dash pad from my 1967 dodge Dart. With some spray foam, marine vinyl, and contact cement, I work my way through a couple different methods until something sticks. Join me through the ups and down of my first attempt at recovering this cracked and brittle dash pad.
Can We Give This Old, Dirty Dash A Complete Facelift?
Переглядів 6237 місяців тому
It's time to give this 57 year old Dodge Dart dash a complete facelift! I tear it apart, strip it down to bare metal. clean, prime, and paint it. Then put it all back together. Some of this process I am doing for the first time so stick around to see how it comes out! 00:00 - Old Dirty Dash 00:41 - Teardown 02:45 - Wrong Paint 03:52 - More Teardown 06:29 - Stripping The Metal 06:53 - Stripping ...
The Truth About Why Some Of Your Gauges Don't Work
Переглядів 7279 місяців тому
Time to dive deeper into dash gauges. Today I am covering why the fuel and temp gauges don't work, but the alternator gauge does. This video pertains to the instrument cluster in my 1967 Dodge Dart. It is in response to a question from a viewer with the same classic car and the same problem we are discussing. 00:00 - Start 00:31 - A Brief Lesson 01:25 - First Measurement 01:59 - Checking the Vo...
What Happens When A Beginner Installs New Metal?
Переглядів 1,3 тис.9 місяців тому
I go about installing a torsion bar crossmember and floor pan for the first time in my 1967 Dodge Dart. Life throws us a couple of curve balls along the way. The placement of the torsion bar crossmember is critical and I am still very new to welding so this will be quite a challenge. I take plenty of measurements to ensure the torsion bar crossmember is right where it should be before welding i...
Removing Rot From This Poor 57 Year Old Classic
Переглядів 1,1 тис.10 місяців тому
I am removing the rusted out floor pans and the rotted torsion bar crossmember in my 1967 Dodge Dart. Doing this for my first time was quite a challenge but very fun. This vintage project car is in better shape than I anticipated but there still a good amount of rust we need gone. To accomplish that I use cut-off wheels, hammer and chisel, and even have to make a store run to pick up a die grin...
Removing The Dart's Dirty Dash: Looks Promising Underneath
Переглядів 1 тис.10 місяців тому
I am removing the dash from my 1967 Dodge Dart. This classic project car is a 57 years old New England car, and full of rust. One of the places that is common for them to rust is on the under side of the cowl so we are removing the entire dash to see if there is rust we need to fix. Join me as I go through the process of dropping the steering column, disconnecting all the wires and hoses, unbol...
Removing The Old Dirty Windshield: Things Break! Terrific!
Переглядів 44911 місяців тому
Join me as I tackle the challenge of removing the old, dirty windshield on my 1967 Dodge Dart! In this hands-on session, I dive into the nitty-gritty details, from detaching the hood and wiper arms to dealing with stubborn lock strips. Watch closely as I carefully break the seal around the windshield gasket, working meticulously to free the glass. The a-pillar trim presents its own set of obsta...
Learn To Work On Classic Cars With These 3 Powerful Tools
Переглядів 230Рік тому
I cover 3 research tools to help you get your first classic car project off on the right foot. These include specific parts of the internet, aftermarket how-to books, and more. If you are looking to learn more about how to revive that rusty old beater in your backyard, tune in for the info that will help you get started. UA-cam Resources: Vice Grip Garage - www.youtube.com/@ViceGripGarage Junky...
'67 Dart Fuel Gauge Diagnosis- Part Two
Переглядів 884Рік тому
'67 Dart Fuel Gauge Diagnosis- Part Two
How To Make Your A-Body Dash Cluster Removal Less Painful
Переглядів 2,2 тис.Рік тому
How To Make Your A-Body Dash Cluster Removal Less Painful
360 Magnum Tested On Run Stand For The First Time
Переглядів 6 тис.Рік тому
360 Magnum Tested On Run Stand For The First Time
Watch How I Remove Suspension Bushings!
Переглядів 1,1 тис.Рік тому
Watch How I Remove Suspension Bushings!
Removing My Tired Front Suspension Reveals Hidden Rot!
Переглядів 2,5 тис.Рік тому
Removing My Tired Front Suspension Reveals Hidden Rot!
Have An Insanely Stuck Torsion Bar? Watch This Now!
Переглядів 19 тис.Рік тому
Have An Insanely Stuck Torsion Bar? Watch This Now!
Saying Goodbye to the 273: 360 Magnum Swap Journey Begins
Переглядів 4 тис.Рік тому
Saying Goodbye to the 273: 360 Magnum Swap Journey Begins
Smooth Assembly of a 360 Magnum....Mostly
Переглядів 12 тис.Рік тому
Smooth Assembly of a 360 Magnum....Mostly
Replace Cam Bearings in 360 Magnum: Simple Steps for Success!
Переглядів 2,4 тис.Рік тому
Replace Cam Bearings in 360 Magnum: Simple Steps for Success!
3 Unusual Things To Help Speed Up Engine Cleaning
Переглядів 1 тис.Рік тому
3 Unusual Things To Help Speed Up Engine Cleaning
DIY Engine Head Cleaning: Revitalizing the 360 Magnum
Переглядів 3,2 тис.Рік тому
DIY Engine Head Cleaning: Revitalizing the 360 Magnum
Revitalizing the 360 Magnum: DIY Engine Block Prep.
Переглядів 4,1 тис.Рік тому
Revitalizing the 360 Magnum: DIY Engine Block Prep.
Awesome Surprise Inside Of This Dirty Junkyard 360 Magnum
Переглядів 11 тис.Рік тому
Awesome Surprise Inside Of This Dirty Junkyard 360 Magnum
Upgrading Rear Suspension with New Leaf Springs!
Переглядів 6 тис.Рік тому
Upgrading Rear Suspension with New Leaf Springs!
How to Replace Wheel Studs WITHOUT a Shop Press?!
Переглядів 3 тис.2 роки тому
How to Replace Wheel Studs WITHOUT a Shop Press?!
1967 Dodge Dart: Fixing the Heater!
Переглядів 1,7 тис.2 роки тому
1967 Dodge Dart: Fixing the Heater!
Hammer swing needs improvement.a dead blow would have been ideal!
Thanks for the suggestion. I definitely need to get a dead blow. I have a rubber mallet but it's not quite the same.
Amazing Sean, still impressing me, I was thinking if I’m remembering right you taught me how to drive too, but we can’t talk about that!!! Lol😊
If you are referring to how I lost my '76 Buick Skyhawk. I remember the night, just not who was with me.
@ not me, we we’re like 15 at night
Hmmm. The station wagon?
@@MontsweagGarage nah, man it was the green car that wasn’t yours, we just cruised around Northcrest.
Ah....the Green Regal. I remember that car. lol.
mark 1 mod zero eyeball lmao! at my age i can only hope it holds zero lol
Like mine, I am sure it's "good enough for government work."
@@MontsweagGarage lmao manufactured by the lowest bidder is how mine is lol
Sounds like you and I are on the same page. lol.
Good job man, that is a pretty good looking rig.
Thank you Ronnie! Welcome to the channel and thank you for the comment. I see you also like to make whatever you have work. I'll definitely check out more of your channel this coming weekend. I am considering a hemi for my next project and may head your way for reference. =)
I’m about to take on a similar swap on my 68 Dart.. 002/003 super stock springs with all new hardware from Mancini .. also gonna ditch the 7.25 for a 8 3/4 axle .. at the same time.
@flamesarewicked Welcome to the channel and thanks for the comment! I have been searching my neck of the woods for a 8 3/4 but everything I have found so far is either for B/C bodies or $2000. I want to find one before I replace the rear spring perches but i am not too hopeful.
@@MontsweagGarageI managed to find the empty housing with small bolt axles in the next state over for $600. It was the only one I could find within driving distance. 8hr round trip later, I was in business. Picked up a refurb center section with 3.91 SG. I also scored some rebuilt 10x1.75 (a-body) brakes on a forum and sourced the drums from summit. I almost went with new axles and B body rear brakes but I managed to save a few hundred bucks this way. Eventually I’ll go to BBP to open up wheel options
I would love to find even a housing around here. I have been given some leads in the last couple of days for a guy one state over who does mopar things. I am hoping he had something I can work with. I'll probably hit him up after thanksgiving weekend. =)
@ one viable option would be to be find a housing from another platform and have it shortened to the width you want. It would open the opportunity to maybe get a little extra tire room. Finding an A body one would be ideal of course. I lucked out. Also sourced the correct A body rear brakes. Most upgrade to the B body drums and BBP.
Nice, gonna have to get going on one to have around. Thanks!!!!!!!
No problem Jamison! Thanks for the comment and welcome to the channel. I hope yours comes out awesome!
Great job! Very well explained, a true budget built run stand! A guy could also paint it if he wants to.
Thank you for the comment and suggestion! I didn't really think about painting it, but now I'm thinking about it. I might have to give it a go.
The days of tossing carb bodies because if this leak are long over these kits used to exist for everything and people stopped doing the repairs and would toss the body for a new one or a used one that leaked less, so sad and wasteful
Hello again John and thank you for the comment! I will definitely will use this carb again. My main reservation was the fact that that I had to grind off the stakes on the throttle blade screws and I did not want to risk them backing out and dropping down the intake. I plan to order new screws and properly stake them before running it again.
They used to sell kits for all carbs some came with a reamer some didn't but they would come with brass bushings awesome you got one!
Welcome John, and thank you for the comment. Unfortunately, the secondaries were leaking as well and the shaft is a different diameter so I didn't get this one completely refurbished. I will definitely get back to it once I want to use the carb in another car.
Норм, но v8 США из эпохи маслкар и не только, так как эти моторы делали вплоть до 10х годов, звучат не хуже и без выхлопа!
Welcome and thank you for the comment! I think is sounds amazing, but I was raised around American Muscle.
"cmon....mayne!!!!" had me dying lmao. too funny!
I kind of miss that segment. Always made me laugh. Professionals doing boneheaded things. I can relate....well about the boneheaded stuff anyway. I am far from a professional.
Daamn
Looks good to me.
Thank you Steve! Welcome to the channel.
How many miles did the engine have on it?
Hello Kelly. Thanks for the comment. The engine had around 150k miles on it, according to the junk yard. It did show some signs of having work done on the bottom end as there were numbers written on the bottom of the rods with sharpie.
I got one for you tie rod removal tool it's got the bottom teeth on the larger piece of the metal to bite into the torsion bar and it's got a table for a socket. Throw an extension Hammer the extension end
Hello David. Welcome to the channel and thanks for the comment. I had to look up the tool you were talking about bit that looks like it might work fairly well. I'll have to give it a shot the next time I need to get out a set of rusted in torsion bars.
Is a a dodge or ford block please
Good evening John. Welcome to the channel and thanks for the comment. This is a Dodge 5.9L (360) Magnum out of a 98 Ram. I hope this is what you were looking for.
What kind of timing light is that
Hello Pete. Welcome to the channel and thanks for the comment. The timing light is an Innova 3568 I picked up from O'reilly's.
22:47 min, You could get a set of Dart heads .
I hadn't heard of Dart heads until I saw this post. Unfortunately, it looks like they just make them for Ford and Chevy engines. I appreciate the info, though. I will definitely keep them in mind should I need to rebuild a chevy engine. Or a Ford I suppose.
96 Dodge 3.9 magnum full engine rebuild
Sweet! I wouldn't complain about a 3.9 v6 for the right car. Let me know how it goes for you.
Just a note on the aspen rear end. I have one in mine and they are slightly wider on the spring perches. You can twist your springs out to fit but they are slightly different. Also the spring pin hole is larger on the aspen. Good way to get to a BBP rear end though. I am upgrading mine to an explorer 8.8 but that's mostly because mine is a 7.25 not the 8.25
Hello Benjamin! Thanks for the info. I was researching on rear ends and I think I saw the Aspen info on For A Bodies Only. I have also considered an 8.8 out of an exploder. I have the 7.25 Suregrip in the Dart at the moment and I am pretty sure it will hold up if I don't beat the crap out of it. Good to know the Aspen 8.25 isn't just plug and play.
@@MontsweagGarage yeah the 7.25 is not bad. I beat on mine with the 318. The main thing is too much tire will get you. The 8.8 is probably the best value for a real beefy rear though.
Is yours open or a Suregrip? I want to make a pass or two down the local dragstrip but don't want to dump rear end oil over all over the track. lol.
@@MontsweagGarage The original was open. The volare has a suregrip. Never been on the drag strip just the street.
@benjaminkadron I was just curious. I appreciate the info! Thanks.
The wifey looks nice dressed up in the MOPAR stuff at 10:41
She's warming up to the MOPAR thing. She'd rather be working on a VW Bug though. Lol.
Good video as always. How far did yall drive? What was your milage?
Hey Jeff. It wasn't that long of a drive, about 60 miles round trip. I haven't filled up again so I have not calculated my milage yet. Even keeping my foot out of it, I am not expecting fantastic milage. It is a 360 after all. Lol.
Its great to see the car out on the road and running good with no issues! It will be easier to make improvements to it when you can still drive it! We have a show in Ontario Canada called Moparfest ( largest gathering of Mopars in Canada) that we enjoy going to for motivation and different ideas for my e-body! Its great when your wife is on board with the hobby because you can share a common interest! Keep the videos coming!
TONY! Why did you plant that in my head? It's only 10 hours from me. I could totally make that trip. Now I have to add it to the bucket list of things like MoParty and Hot Rod Power Tour. Not till the car is done though. Lol! In all seriousness. Thank you. I was not aware of that and it would definitely be a blast. You are not my only Canadian viewer and it would be cool to meet some of you!
love it! what did you use to black out your grill? i heard the 20:1 steering box is a good middle from the 16 and 24, best of both worlds!
Thanks! I used Plasti-Dip on the grille and emblems. That way they're not "ruined." Just gotta peel it off and it's back to original. I contemplated a 20:1 as well but I think I want a 16:1. Wish there was a way to test before I buy.....=/
@@MontsweagGarage awesome! i had thought about using plastidip as well. im going for hot rod black for the body and all the chrome is going to be gloss black. I agree to as for wanting to test things out before you buy, only in a perfect world lol. keep up the good work, i love seeing the progress on the dart!!
I love the murdered out look. You'll have to share pics when you are done!
Sweet vid amigo!! I loved the show and glad you got finished in time to participate. All the hard work is paying off. I got to get out to one around northern Indiana, Auburn has a bunch yearly. The boobs trick was hilarious, hee hee, and lil one reminds me of Sheba. Looking 4ward to the next video, the car is ready coming along!!
Thanks Joe! It's funny you mentioned Sheba. As Hazel gets older, there are times when she does things that immediately remind me of Sheba, especially when she jumps up in my lap and demands attention. Lol.
rawsome! I chased down several air leaks....intake and exhaust......and now my invaluable SMOKE MACHINE is showing an air leak at the throttle body spring/shaft area. I ordered a used one on EBAY for $30 and will investigate/repair/swap.
That's pretty sweet! I will be getting a smoke machine eventually. I am just now getting to the point where I can afford some of the more fancy tools. Lol. Definitely check out the bushing kit in this video. Worked quite well.
Dude, I’m sorry but welding your ball jointed in a little sketchy lol
Yeah, wasn't my first choice but Fat Kid (me) was on a time line. I'll most likely replace the control arm and ball joint in the off season. It'll hold till then. =)
Just a little?
Glad to see you put all the time and effort in to restoring this A body.living in California I don’t have the body panel problems with my dart.I hope to see more videos from you bringing that old molar back to its former glory.👍
Welcome to the channel Carlos, and thank you for the comment. I plan on continuing the body work through the winter and....hopefully......get the paint done in the spring.
Save yourself some trouble and buy new ones.they are very nice.😁👍
I may invest in new ones at some point. I work on electronics for a living though so the repair wasn't to much of a hassle and is holding up great.
I also have a 67 dart.I find there are a lot of one year only parts.they make more for the 68 and 69 models.I enjoy watching your videos.keep them coming.👍
Hello Carlos. Welcome to the channel and thanks for the comment! I hope the videos are helpful. If you have questions along the way, feel free to ask. I will answer as best I can.
Seal the frost plug. Will leak
Hello John. Welcome to the channel and thanks for the comment! I went back and sealed all the core plugs with Permatex form a gasket before dropping the engine in the car. Holding up well.
I just love clicking on these videos with the expectation that maybe someone has a tip or trick Im not aware of then they break out the claw hammer to work on an engine... YEP Im done and that tells me all I need to know.
I just don't get why people get so wrapped around the axle about a claw hammer. Those of us just getting into this hobby tend to make due with what we have on hand. I happened to have a claw hammer at the time. I don't claim to be an expert. I am learning as I go and just want to share what I learn with others that are doing this for the first time.
what size torsion bars did you go with? i got some PST 1.03 for my 67 dart and they are beefy, makes me wonder if they are going to clear the headers. did you have any issues with yours clearing the headers? love your videos by the way, probably more info on your channel for diy resto than any other channel ive found! I appreciate the help it gives me!!!
Welcome back, and thanks for the comment! I picked up a set of 1.03s from Mancini Racing. I did not have any issues with the headers clearing. I'm glad you are finding the channel helpful. This is my first time through a project car and I am just trying to share what I learn along the way.
@@MontsweagGarage I love it because this car (67 dart 270) is my first project car aswell and i find myself not intimidated but just not "in the know" of how these things go so every video you post, i watch because il be doing the same things to my car. So thank you for your videos and your service!!!!
You are welcome. For both! If you have questions along the way, feel free to ask.
@@MontsweagGarage when you put the engine in the car, did you have to drain the oil and trans fluid first? thanks in advance!!!
@reapwhatyousow3383 I drained the transmission but left the oil in the engine.
Anyone know the torque specs for the timing cover?
Hello Lex. Welcome to the channel and thanks for the comment. The specs you are looking for are 30 ft/lbs for case capscrews, 15 ft/lbs for the oilpan capscrews. Hope this is helpful.
I've watched a few gauge testing videos including a few of yours. This one gave me enough info to tackle my 68 dart temp & inconsistent gas gauge.1000 thanks! 👊
Welcome Dustin and thanks for the comment! I am glad this was helpful! If you run into issues, fell free to hit me up, I will help as much as I can.
Solvents rule clean and soak they will come right out be generous with it or buy a torch
Hello Cindy. Thanks for the comment! I had hit it with PB blaster and a MAP Gas Torch as well prior to shooting this video. I probably should have added that into the video itself.
Hey i need help with my 360 magnum one spark plug hole is weled shut with no threads and the other spark plug hole shot out the porcelain and kept the threads in. Im thinking new heads would be the easiest right?
Welcome and thanks for the comment. I would definitely replace the heads. You might be able to get a machine shop to fix the ones you have but I'm not sure if that would be any cheaper. That's just my 2 cents, I am by no means an expert.
I need help i bought a truck from the junyard said spark plugs blew out but one spark plug hole is welded shut with no threads and the other hole the porcelain partof the spark plug shot of but the threads stayed in and rusted i was gonna just change out the heads but do you have any ideas everyone ive asked has been negative saying how difficult its gonna be and how im gonan have to do timing if i do that
Welcome, and thanks for the comment. As I said in the previous comment, I think your best bet is to replace the heads. You might be able to get a machine shop to fix the ones you have but I'm not sure if that will be any cheaper. Either way, it gives you a chance to get a peek into the cylinders and make sure they are not all rusty. If you are keeping the factory ECU and EFI, you should not have to touch timing at all. If you are going with a carb, you should check/set the ignition timing on your first start.
This is where I picked up the refurbished heads that are on my engine. www.alliedmotorparts.com/products/cylinder-head-dodge-chrysler-318-360-5-2-5-9l-466-671-magnum-93-03?variant=35037684826270&gad=1
Great job, you got lots of work done,
Thanks Chumley! You should see it now! She's almost ready for a "first start and drive" video =)
Put your Torsion Bar boots in boiling water for a few minutes to soften them and they stretch easier
Welcome, James, and thank you for the comment! I never would have thought of boiling them to soften them up. That's a great tip. Thank you!
Wow, very impressive amigo!
Thanks Joe. I should have the car up and running this weekend. I am super excited! My goal is to have all the bugs worked out in time for Darliing's All Mopar Car Show next month.
Hopefully everything will be filmed too
Nice - you'll be on the road in no time !!
Thanks Tractorman! I intend to have her up and running this weekend. I did alot of the assembly off camera this past weekend. Driveshaft, brakes, electrical. All the boring stuff. Just hooking up wires and bolting things in. Still have Fuel and Ignition to do as I wasn't sure if I wanted to install the Sniper yet. Think I am going to get it running first, then give the snip[er video it's own video. =)
It's coming together! Question: If you were already removing most of the suspension, why didn't you just install everything on the k-frame and put it in through the bottom like the factory?
Welcome Benjamin and thank you for the comment. I didn't think I could get the car high enough to do it that way as I don't have a lift. Someday...lol.
@@MontsweagGarage makes sense. I have seen several people use the engine lift and just pivot the car on the rear wheels. That is what I was going to try. With a back up of a winch and my garage rafters. Haha. We will see how that goes.
Looking good. Coming along nicely. Just a side note, the studs for the wiper motor would be painted body color from the factory so there’s no need to tape them up.
Hello Brian. Thank you for the comment. It will be body color eventually. The main reason I masked them is to not gunk up the threads with high build primer.
It so nice to see something going back together! Great job on the engine bay!
Welcome back Tony! Thanks for commenting video after video. I really appreciate it! Eventually this beast will get a fresh coat of paint. We'll be doing some more tearing apart here soon enough. Got the center, and the front of the car done. The rear end is coming soon. There is a lot of rot underneath behind the rear wheels! Nothing Life threatening though so she's gonna be back on the road soon!
Great job!!!
Hello Greg. Welcome to the channel and thank you for the comment! Hope you enjoy the content.
Watch the Johnny Mopar video. He cuts his old torsion bar off at the end, puts the boot on backwards and slides it on.
I'll definitely check it out.
dude i laughed so hard because i just bought a 67 dart and literally the first thing you said...was all my problems. temp and fuel dont work but the volt meter does. I guess I have a true mopar lol
@reapwhatyousow3383 Welcome and thanks for the comment! I hope this video is helpful for you. I made this based on another viewer's questions in the comments. I was fortunate and all my gauges worked. If you end up having questions, feel free to give me a holler. I hope to see you around, and thanks you for the Sub as well.
What microphone are you using? I am looking for a budget-friendly mic.
It's a Rode Wireless Me. I picked it up at Target for less than $100. It was a huge improvement over my last wireless mic.
@@MontsweagGarage Thanks for the tip! I currently have a cheap mic that gives me poor sound quality.