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ARTIFACTS ATTY, Why did they use certain Baud Rates and Why even use the Baud Rate instead of using NO Baud Rate? If they used NO Baud Rate, what would happen?

Nice Video! You can configure Putty to write the output to a file :-)

Nice one Artie! Brings back some good memories of interfacing with various printers, weigh scales, and barcode readers. PS I think you said 'Row Control', but it's actually Flow Control.

Hearing the dot matrix printer churning away made watching this worthwhile by itself. I may need to seek help...

That laptop will serve you for years to come, if you don't connect to the internet. Many computers are running Windows XP in factories and workshops, using older software to run machines.

NSM (Löwen Automaten) and ADP (Gauselmann) are both german manufacturers of the typical german "Geldspieler" gambling games. These can be read out with small printers called "Auslesedrucker" which, I guess, where and still are rather widespread among german operators.

Well, I can clearly see that dumping all the data into the laptop sure is faster than all one would have to go thru using a printer.

A very interesting curiosity and as you say, a rare one too! As regards dumping the output to PuTTY, on the pinball machine menu you selected pause after printing a page which is why it did exactly that! Since the device was designed to run with real printers it almost certainly sends a Form Feed <FF> character (0x0C) at the end of each page, which most terminals interpret as a clear screen command. No need to take a screenshot of the output - PuTTY has logging capability to send the data to a file. Looking forward to the next video 👍😁

Good to see you back! Interesting device to see user/sales info. Maybe was used in the factory for diags too?

Very interesting to see such a rare item. On the serial dump did it have the same errors that the parallel printer did? That'll maybe tell you if the software has those errors in it or the printer is faulty.

where the heck is the pot for the -15V cant find it haha, is it in the front and have to pull front panel off or in the rear like you are doing when testing voltages

i am having trouble removing the black plastic piece that holds the disc drive. one of the posts won't budge at all. it's the one right beside the bigger fan. i already unscrewed it on the bottom of the console, btw. the other three posts lift fine. this console has been opened before from the previous owner or the game store i bought it from.

I built one of these while I was still in High School. They were a wonderfully designed computer! After working on a TRS-80 Model III, I really missed the way that the entire computer was accessible by lifting the cover. I wish I still had mine all these years later

I feel SO BAD about the huge box of 8" and hard sectored disks I threw away in the late 1980s. :(

Thanks for solving my plate voltage problem. Mine was reading 198 VDC.

Super cool, how did someone even drop that off to a donation area for a thrift shop😂 awesome find

Truly impressive work! Thanks for documenting this!

Someone went very deep down the rabbit hole of archaic disk drive emulation.

The GoTek is a handy device indeed. I have used them on vintage HP test gear and vintage Tek test gear, and they work very well. Great for saving machine setups, screenshots, etc. I 3D printed front faceplates and they look presentable too.

I wonder if something like a GoTek can be fitted, to deal with the hard-sector-floppy-is-unobtainium issue?

It looks new from outside. I miss the days of Heathkit catalogs and all the cool kits, my family though not so much cause I would drive everyone nuts begging for things like this...

I've seen a few of these H-89 computers, but never really had a detailed demo of how it works. Thanks for the demonstration.

It's amazing to me what used to be designed and built here in West Michigan. Heathkit, Gibson Guitars... In the 90s I could walk into a guitar shop and buy a Rat distortion, a Pro-co cable and Dean Markley strings and they were all made within 15 minutes of that shop. I could have if I wasn't a broke teenager anyway.

Wow, I'm really impressed with what you've done with this computer ! Keep up the good work ! I'd like to see videos on any future work on this machine and any modifications you make.

Pretty nice machine there! Glad the floppy drive situation is sorted out

Hello ! Nice to see you again !! Hope all is well with you !

This brings back many memories, the good old days of simple computers.

Hi Arty. Great find. I've always loved Heathkit as they were learning kits as well as computers. All I can find around here are Ham Radios and oscilloscopes.

Hi Arty, happy new year. It’s great to see the new content!

Happy New Year to you Sir. Great to see you back on the tube been missing your content uploads. Not seen one of these computers before so this vid was ultra interesting, to be frank I didn't know there was Heathkit computer system, this was obviously post the Sinclair Z80 so I don't know how I've missed it. Again you have added to my knowledge of retro tech machines which has given me a whole new avenue of exploration and that's why I find your vids so interesting. As always thank you for taking the time to educate us lesser mortals. Have a great 2025.😀

Hey Arty..Happy New Year

I picked up one of these. I have not started trying to trouble shoot it yet.. I have a Model I. Can you share the demo program or where to get it?

Very interesting video, I like the intro music! The RR light and backstory on it is cool! Thank you for sharing! I subscribed!

25:03 The TDS 320 service manual shows the NVRAM module as the DS1230AB-120. These are available from DigiKey and other places, but I've yet to see anyone claim that they could replace one in a TDS 320 scope. In theory, you need the Tektronix 067-1436-00 Communications Pod to save data and update firmware. 26:10 The TDS 320 doesn't appear to have the date/time option, perhaps no real-time clock, so one less thing to go wrong I guess. Edit: The TDS 340 shown here appears to use a DS1644 which is 256Kbit same size as the DS1230AB, plus it has the Real Time Clock function. Thanks for sharing your troubleshooting experience.

I have an Oscar ...... It has a very unique sound ...... You have done a great job recreating ...... Did you use metal rods for the contacts .......I'd say it's 80% like original ........well done ......🎹🎹🎹🎹🎹

Good job.

Good stuff!

Great video! Thank you! I have a silverball mania that the sound will occasionally go out completely in the middle of a game, but if I turn the game off and then back on the sound is back again. Any ideas? Thank you!

hi, thank you for this informative video. Someone has scanned the hand drawn schematics now but nevertheless your video helped me understand the circuit quickly, save for the bit about 4x, x32, x256 freq. can you talk about the filter overdrive?

Awesome video. With luck my Rip off and Star Castle games that I haven't turned on in 20 years will have the exact same issues or better yet, no issues! Thanks for the head start and walking though this.

Had any chances to make a recap video? I just bought this one 2 days ago and would love a tutorial

Why not get a hickok ca5 or ca4 adaptor cheaper then another tester. I got one for my hickok 752 now can test all tubes then have hickok 600 for good bad and basic mutual conductance

Could parallel some resistors on that pot to increase its wattage. But resistance will go down so larger value pot be best. Then have an easy adjust 8k resistor

Awesome video. I recently picked up an EMP-20 and trying to program ST M2732A chips. Verified device, chips blank, binary file loaded into buffer, but keep getting a program verify error after the very first buffer/device address…it won’t program and verifies the device data as still being FF. Any idea what I could be doing wrong or what could be causing this? I have older 4.07 software but it should still work.

The two bulbs are in parallel not in series so you are not adding their wattage together. Think of what happens by wiring resistors in parallel and series.

Thank you for sharing your experience with this classic Heathkit trainer. I was fortunate to have purchased one a few years back, still sealed and in kit form from 1978. It was such an enjoyable experience, building the 3400!

very helpful video, but I am not as fluent when it comes to electronics as you are. I bought an "untested" unit and I got to power it on and the display shows the same bars like yours before you made the adjustment with the pots. If you could explain what is going on to a layman, what you did with the pot and what fixed it, what was broken, etc. Only if you have the time of course. regards Vincent

Crazy that a military tester like the tv7u and i-177 the meters get dirty or sticky. Where as the lab grade ones like mine which is 752. And a hickok 600 bench model like yours they used meters that where glass window and sealed really well

Hey, great video! I just bought an original Asteroids, everything is working except the monitor will get brighter then duller then brighter. Keeps doing it, sometimes it will stay nice for a short period of time. Is this called blooming? If I whack the machine gently it seems to help a bit....I'm new to this stuff and I'm not sure how to go about testing. There seems to be many parts that could be the culprit. Thanks in advance for any info.

I just got an old 1405 yesterday, and am happy to see this video! Mine looks similar, but I think with a lot in common with your model here.