Відео

I'm my 30 years of be8ng s pinball geek I have never seen an Atari pinball backglass flake.

I always live it when someone says something is "shopped"like there is a list of something somewhere that defines shopped. This is coming from an owner of 15 machines.

Thanks for the video, it is well explained. I can only speak for Australian issued Boss and Roland PSUs, some of which do not have the conventional symbol showing the polarity of the barrel jack. In fact there is no indication. I can imagine a musician who has collected a number of synth and FX units could easily assume if the voltage matches and it is says Roland or Boss and the product brand matches the PSU brand it is easy to assume the polarity will be correct. The only safe way is to do what you did and that is find the schematic and use a multimeter to find the polarity of the PSU. Then label the cord or write on the PSU the polarity and what it is used to power.

Those diodes up on the board are actually factory. I have a 1050 which has never been worked on and both diodes are mounted that way.

Thank you so much! This is my first pinball machine and this video helped me a ton!

This is probably the best explanation of a DBT. I’m a subscriber now. Thanks

Wow! This was nerd therapy for me. I remember my Dad buying me a 4K Model 1 at the end of the 1970s. This was eventually expanded to a twin floppy system using LDOS. Happy days. I spend hours learning to program in BASIC and machine code. Wish I had kept it. sniff ... :(

Really enjoy your content. Your vids inspired me to do electronic repairs, dabbling with radios of all sorts, then onto more complex things and i must say that im really enjoying tbe learning curve. The fuse holder on one of the radios i was repairing was corroded with a fine white powder, but i didn't notice it, when I tested the fuse in circuit across the two fuse endcaps, it of course tested okay but still no power, it took me a good few minutes to discover the corroded fuse holder. Thanks again for your inspiration and can't wait for the next video with more tips and knowledge.

Monolith, meaning like a statue, hugh obblisk (monolithic statue), "those rectifiers are huge" Derived from "mono" meaning "single" & "lithos" meaning "made from stone" hence mono- lith. Our old family home, before dad was made redundant and we had to downsize, had a huge stone fire hearth and chimney, we used to call it the monolith in the lounge.😀

Big soldertips are a nice thing. I for myself use a big old iron, dont know the watts, but it melts everything quite fast. Even solderconnections on a big metal chassis.

What do you mean by "Monolithic" rectifiers? Monolithic meaning what?

Salvaged parts to save the day ! Hopefully, you can find a home for the repaired boards.

Equal judge plank!

I'm here to chew gum and repair rectifier boards, and I'm all out of gum... :D As always, thanks for another informative video.

Good video. A question: Can this oscilloscope be used to repair communication radios?

Buen video. una consulta se puede usar ese osciloscopio para reparar radios de comunicación ?

Can I some questions about the Roland repair?

You turned the machine on with a data tape in the drive. Never do that.....

You didnt mention recalibration after replacing new leads, I need to do that with mine when i chenged the design. If i remeber correctly you need to connect all three leads and have a good .1uf nearby for lead lenght cal. Thanks for sharing

Phil Collins was an influent with his band but Mister Drive was better known in Europe

I have one of those from my late late grand mother, i don't if it is still working i would like to what its worth today. Its vintage

Thanks for this video! Just repaired my M4 keyboard in a similar manner. I just used a small set of pliers to remove the switches from the metal frame after desoldering them (grab the tabs and pull them upright from the metal frame, makes it really easy) and 99% IPA to clean the metal tabs inside the switches. Keep up your good work!

I had a scope just like that one. Recapped it and connected an oscilloscope clock board to it. Got tired of every time I turned around having to repair or re-adjudt something on the scope so I gutted it and found a small modern deflection board and got it working as a scope clock.

The fan is still quite noisy on these scopes, even when dusted off I just purchased a used TDS 320 scope, and I plan to replace the fan with a much quieter PC fan I have in spare - which even seems to push more air

The B and K manual has the variac before the isolation transformer, which to me is a little strange unless it aids in reducing inrush (magnetization) current. A common modification is installing a switch to enable floating of the output outlet grounds, which may require a custom output box (use an isolated ground orange duplex receptacle) depending on how the output jacks are wire and if they are strapped (connected) to the chassis through the mounting ears, which is generally not the case with the square single panel push mount types. Usually on older 1655s the front square jacks are sprung (low or no plug tension), so a separate AC output box is added. I have the little brother to the 1655 which is the 1653 which also does not float the output AC safety ground. So it too has to be modified to float the output ground. If you do a lot of bench AC powered appliance (device) repair, and have used different AC power supplies over the years, most experienced electronic technicians design there own to include additional features like: Higher current output 10A (which means a large transformer and variac with surge circuit), current limit dead short option (bulbs or resistor), magnetic/hydraulic AC circuit breaker protection (circuit breaker protection to protect firstly the variac which is usually after the isolation transformer) instead of fuses, two analog AC current meters (with a switch MBB to select different ranges), one analog output AC voltage meter, two types of isolated output receptacle both orange floating ground GFCI duplex and regular duplex with a selector switch and with each having a separate power on switch. The isolation transformer is usually a toroidal hospital grade transformer with internal shield and over-temp self resetting thermal switch. The GFCI is a basic AC current leakage detector for the DUT. It will trip at about 6mA or above. So if it does not trip this means that if there is leakage it is below the GFCI threshold. Before each use the GFCI should be tested with its test button.

Greenslade intro music ? 😊

i see metal tape on the disk part. what is that? i might purchase a new one since mine is raggedy. where exactly can i get those? and what's the tape called?

Pick Axe Pete: You try to stay alive smashing boulders until a falling gold boulder smashes on the floor and produces a golden key which you are to gather and enter a box to advance to the next level. Your pick axe will disappear but not as quickly as the key does.

For the common corroded contacts in the power switch on the Genesis I use Deoxit or BW100 instead of IPA.

👏👏👏, the video looks like a 2010 production. It must be good.

You sure di know what you are doing! I worked as TV technical Maintenance Engineer for 15 years. I just picked up a tektronix TDS 360 -similar like yours with the same problem. You gave mea solution to my problem. Thank You!

I must have been the lucky ones. I loved my Adam. I bought one in my senior year of HS AND never had a problem. I used it for games and school work through college. Great printer for the time and even learned basic language while I had it. Lol, I had my first resume on that thing. Eventually, it got stored in the shed for a couple of years. I Pull it out, and it still worked. I felt it kept up or out performed my buddies C64 for game play. Yes, the tape drive was loud and the printer, but for half the cost of a C64 I was fine with it. I even programmed a rudimental DD game.

Great scope! I'm looking on to buy one for myself too :)

If you call the SIO port "really slow" what can we say about C64's drive speed communication?

The SIO port was really slow? Compare to what, Apple II disk drive speed...maybe ? Atari gave an official number of 19.200bit/s. Custom solutions brought that number up to 72.000 bit/s (some modern solutions even higher) . At the same time C64 drive feed around 2400 bits/s while with a fast loader that number reached 20.000 bit/s. The SIO port had a decent speed and we can't really call it "slow".

If Atari spent some time lobbing with software houses instead of suing them for writing games for their systems might had a better outcome.

Hey bud, I know this was a long time ago the repair was done, but very informative on the methodology used that I'm referring to with my QS8.2. Grateful to you! Thanks

I don't know if you can give an opinion on this but I'm looked at a used GFG-3015 for about $100...is that I good deal? I'm not finding a lot of info on the used price for this device.

Just wanted to thank you for this, I have recently bought a TDS380 which had a similar issue where it just clicked on power on, traced it through to a shorted FEP16DT diode, my caps looked fine so for now I just replaced the diode, perfect! Working once again. I might go through the capacitors at a later date

I resoldered the big motor on a oem ps2 controller, tested it on a phat console and now the rumble do not work on any other controller. It was working ok as I took notice only the small motor was working on the aforementioned controller before the "reparation". I have just read the same happened to another person, so it may not be a good idea to resolder/replace those rumble motors... Are there any other collateral damages if I do not repair the fuse or the regulator? I can live without rumble like in the 8bit and 16bit era...

Dear Sir, I really liked your explanations of the initiation into the world of Vintage MPUs. Your library is really cool. There is certainly more information there than any AI can provide us. However, I have a question: To follow your classes, it would be very interesting to have this simulator running on my PC. How can I acquire it? Hugs and congratulations!

Your tech videos are great, and you are about the only one that seems to understand the cou boards on these atari pins. Would you be willing to help me trouble shoot my airborne avenger? Ive reached a stalemate and my my own internal brain logic is frozen.

Thanks for the clear way you diagnosed the problem. I followed the official Trs80 manual steps, and allthough they check out on my own Trs80, this is a more sensible way to diagnose! My Trs80 never came into a working condition, so I stll need to guess what kind of Eprom and level it is in. Your board matches my board very much so this is helpful. Got garbage on screen, and suspect some support chips problem or Ram. Will check voltages on all Ic’s first like you did! All in all it’s a lot of fun finding out the problem yourself! So thanks for this video, its gonna help me!

It must use pulse width modulation for the speech.

You got my thumbs-up 🙂

Hi. Thanks for excellent videos. I did the same LED change in my MPF-I. I have two MPF-I and fixed their LEDs. I found almost the exact sizes than the originals. The number is 5011AS I found those on Jameco

Hey, thanks for this video. I pick up trash for a living and some guy was tossing this, so I grabbed it. I know nothing about this unit but I'd like to learn and get this working (I really did't even plug it in yet). By the way I pick up lawn mowers and Dyson vacuums also. Those I can fix. Up to 21 mowers and 12 Dysons now.

I just picked up a BK 1460 for $10. Plugged it in and it works. Gonna use it for transistor curve tracing.

I watched this video and my 465M was having the same type of problem with the trace. I replaced the same capacitor and lo and behold it was fixed. Thanks for doing this video as it helped me greatly. Pat in Louisiana

My power switch does have continuity where yours didn't. Why do I only have half a volt going into the input of the voltage regulator, then?