Відео

Great video! Ive ordered this battery based on your videos. And also a victron shunt. It will be used to power a 55lb trolling motor. What is the safest voltage to go down to on the batteries? Will the BMS protect the battery from over-discharge, and if so what voltage is that? I can't seem to find these values anywhere. Any help appreciated. Many thanks

I just bought one from eBay, and it was only 189 USD. Also had a 4th of July sale on it. 38 off 189 USD. I'm glad to see it is a great quality battery. I'll be using mine on my 15-foot tri hull fishing boat for lights and trolling motor. My engine doesn't use a battery. It's an 18hp evinrude 1967 model. Tha KS for this video. Have a great day

Sir can you give me a call?!

Hi there. I have this box and today decided to fit a cheap battery voltage monitor. After fitting, I closed the lid and sparks and plumes of smoke came bellowing out. It's an old 75ah lead battery I have and wish to replace now. It's good to see the eco worthy fits. My question is, have I damaged the box. I'm really not good with any of this. I tested the USB and that seems OK. I will test the cigarette lighter tomorrow. I use it with a trolling 55lb motor, but am concerned that the 60a breaker won't kick if my motor gets tangled etc. Any help would be great. Awesome channel BTW. Cheers

got the 200 for my boat.

How is this battery performing since the teardown? I bought the newer model of this battery with built in USB ports. Looking at the specifications, it seems to have the same bms though. Thanks for the information.

Its a shame the cutoff is so low, that could damage the cells, also they advertise low temp cutoff but it seems to be false advertising. They are £199 now so pretty cheap assuming you can deal with these issues.

Just discovered your channel whilst doing research before buying a battery for a canoe 12v outboard. Thanks for your useful info. The videos are simply explained even for those who only managed a grade c physics O level 😢. I see on Fogstars site that they have introduced a "drift eco". Have you any plans/views on how they compare to the standard "drift?

Thank you for the demonstration and explanation, very useful.

Thanks for all of these informative and detailed videos. I'm new to batteries (been using a small Bluetti power station for a few years but it's time to move up :) and all of your info has been super valuable in trying to get up to speed! We've settled on the regular LiTime 100ah based on your great vids. But the charger: i know (from your vids and your website) that it needs to be a LiFePO4 specific charger, but should I be using a 10amp or 20amp charger to charge these with? Does it matter how fast I charge it?

i paid $1.99 lol

Thanks for unboxing this Bestek inverter.... I think Bestek inverters are far better than other inverters (Chinese inverters) available on the market...

This vid saved my butt on 2 renogy 100aH batts that were below 2v - need to bypass the bms - share it wide - brought both back to life!! m.ua-cam.com/video/C_LMwWP8zGU/v-deo.html

Lol, rating a battery in pence per watt hr. Priceless.

Can I wire the solar input at 24 V the directions I have say 15 to 23 so that means I can’t use a 12 V panel and I can’t use a 24 V panel?😳😳😳😳😳

I plan on adding the second fan to my blue smart ip22 30 amp 3 output charger but i don't know what size of fan to get, can anyone help me

Hi, just got mine and instructions say do not charge lithium batteries 👀😎 take it that’s a load of waffle 🙂 I’m am pretty much ignorant with stuff, only simple for me

Given you basically destroyed the battery anyways, it would’ve been nice if you would’ve just clipped those wires so everybody could see the finale of your tear down. Thanks for all of the other information you provided however.

This battery needs a 'kick start' which you can get from a Renogy solar controller or a Renogy charger. It's an off 'feature' but the battery needs to be switched back on. Renogy should have told you this. The battery is not dead but very very asleep!

Long video, in this case it was worthwhile for me. 👍

I just got mine, exact same model, delivered. Worth noting it says in package "Do not connect to lithium battery". It is supposedly only aimed for use with lead, AGM or gel based batteries.

I bought two of these in case one dies. I am using the 30 amp which is over-rated for my needs, but it has been quite reliable. I recommend going with over-rating as it is going to be a tiny bit sturdier. The one draw back is the connection points are pretty feeble and I am using this as a non-stationary controller for conditioning and charging my car battery, so those connections really get wiggled around and I have had wires fatigue and break off and you really don't want that happening. The solution is screw the device to a small piece of wood and glue gun and further secure down the wiring so it doesn't fatigue at the connection points and you also get more electrical insulation. Just glue gunning the wiring to the box should really help stabalize the wiring. I recently got a deal on a glass 50 watt panel, which replaced a plastic panel that I bought as 20 watts, but I think was only 10 watts and only worked well enough for a year. Don't get plastic solar panels: waste of money! Glass rules. So now I am overpowered, but I can also charge 5 volt usb lights and such, right on the usb ports on the controller and if my car battery gets drained for some reason, I can charge it back up pretty quickly with the 50 watts and controller. This controller is a great cheap solution for small setups. Just connect the controller to the battery before you connect the solar panels or you will fry the controller.

Another great presentation thank you.

You can buy a Fogstar bluetooth 300a BMS for £100.

I'm not sure why that is any sort of surprise ... LiFePO4 is well known for being able to provide high current, as is lead acid ... 300A is no big deal, juts means it has a good BMS

It’s not hard for a 12v to generate upwards of 600 amps

My Kepworth,24V/100Ah/ fuse 100A? Smoking BMS. Warranty? Do not expect

24V/100Ah/Fuse 100A: BMS under Fire! Do not buy. Warranty? Forget it.

Hello! Please tell me whether the indicator on the charger indicates the battery is fully charged. Does the indicator always light up red or change color to green when charging is complete?

I’ve got her 560 fog star if I run 700 W microwave and a 3000 W inverter it draws about 100 amps the thick leads I’m using get hot but my worry on the app shows the temperature rising on the cell one cell goes up from say 19 C to about 32 and 10 minutes running with the microwave the other cells stay at the same temperature. did your cells increase in temperature at all the same amount? thanks for showing good one as usual..

They seem like good products but can they compete when the price of batteries is dropping so fast and they are still quite expensive? Yes you can't beat that 300amp bms but i got a 24 volt 100ah ecoworthy/dc house battery for £400 via ebay so if you could find that deal again you could get 2 for the price of one of those fogstar batteries. That is double the capacity and higher output (5.2kw?). Obviously the fogstar is a premium product that fits a purpose and i have no idea what is in the ecoworthy and whether the BMS would survive that sort of treatment (I mean two ecoworthies to get 200amps at 25.6 volts).

Thanks once again for another teardown, UK style 😊

Thanks, this has solved the issue with my inverter in my van. Everything seems to be working now. My inverter has an option for bypass mode, which I have currently disconnected due to the bonding. With the neutral and earth bonded, will this matter when the inverter is in bypass mode? Essentially, will it bond the neutral and earth on the ring main of the house? Thanks

I ordered the DC House 24 volt 100ah off ebay and received an ecoworthy battery in an umarked box (shouldn't lithium batteries be marked and use special couriers)? If you follow ecoworthy/dc house state of charge chart you would believe the battery is faulty or only has half the stated capacity. They say 26.42 volts is 30% when in reality 26.1 is around 50% resting voltage. In truth if charging and discharging the voltage is completely irrelevant for state of charge which is why I'm glad I bought a shunt to measure ah in and out. It appears that for a charge/discharge of 0.1C (10 amps) you can probably get more than 100ah out of this battery. Also I learned that while ecoworthy say 29.2 is the charged voltage that seems to be where the BMS will disconnect. If using a solar charge controller you need to set the maximum voltage to be 28.4v or less otherwise you'll be bouncing off the disconnect everytime the sun appears from behind a cloud. Mine is now set for 27.8. Hopefully that is high enough for cell balancing as ecoworthy say their bms balances at 3.6 volts per cell but seeing as most of their information is wrong I'm hoping that it is actually around 3.4 volts per cell. I know that fully charged is around 27.7v if you can look at the charging voltage graph (using the shunt). It hits that voltage and pretty much stops taking any current and the voltage shoots up. A lot to learn about charging/discharging lithium batteries! Now I just need some bigger solar panels so I can charge the battery in one day!

The $10 charge controller on the left is cheap for a reason.

Thank you! I set the floating voltage to 13.7V, but the controller ignores this setting and literally constantly boils the battery at 14.8-15V. To my surprise, I couldn't find any information anywhere about anyone who had experienced this. Is there anyone with the same problem?

Have you done any of the bigger batteries from fogstar or sterling power? 309-400ah?

Just ordered a 200 amp one.

hi dc guy on the pwm controller, am i right in thinking that i can use the load side of the controller to connect that straight onto my vehicle starter battery to also keep that charged up as well by solar, as charging my leisure battery in my van all at the same time , as im new to all this so i hope that made sence buddy , cheers in advance craig ps im also a subscriber 😀😀👍👍

Hello how to remove the cover

Did it not come with the terminal screws

Just purchased for £179 on eBay 27/5/24 from eco worthy themselves) just for reference / anyone curious as to price history on these 👍

I have tons of these. They always tested at least their capacity of 1280wh. The last 2 100ah I bought, I hooked them up in series and ran a capacity test and got over 2600wh. Great batteries for the price. I have tons of their solar panels too. While the panels efficiency/rating is not as good as others, their efficiency/price ratio is the best. What I mean is that their 100w panel might be only getting 75w on average, but it only cost $50. Other 100w panels might be getting 85w but they cost $70 making the Eco a better value. Their panels are also smaller in size.

My Eco-Worthy panel arrived with built in damage, mo replacement

Hello, I realize your post was a year ago, but I am going to try to ask for help anyways...... I bought 2 Eco worthy batteries just like the ones you have in the video. 12v100ah, last summer. I also have an Ecoworthy Charger. I only ended up using one of the batteries,as the other was not needed. I used this battery about 5 times last summer( on a snowcone stand), never fully discharged. They were kept indoors all winter, cool dry room.....Well, its Summer here now-neither one will charge, the charger flashed 13.0 then 4.5A ,and that all it does....The batteries measure @ 1/2 full but have both dies when I tried to use them this year, today actually, while serving customers at a market----and the fore mentioned is what happens when I got them home to charge them and try investigate what happened. But I don't know whats happening, or what to do about it, or anything? Cold you please help me? Keep in mind, I am not as advanced as you, not do I have all these interesting gadgets---just a farmers market snowcone stand owner trying to get help. I hop you get this and can reply. Thank you for you time.

If you still have that BMS it's likely some mosfets that have shorted. There are tutorials on here on how to test mosfets. Look up the part number and see what the max voltage is for the fets and I'm guessing they can't handle 48V (I've seen an SFK video about this exact model saying the stock JBD can't but the special SFK version made by the same manufacturer uses different fets that can handle 48V)

Add a switch to that balancer. All of them that I've seen of that style have a solder pad labeled switch. You can short the pads with solder to have it permanently on or you can run a short wire off each pad and then to a small switch. NEVER balance your battery when below 3.45V per cell. You are just unbalancing your battery because when the voltage curve is flat there is no relationship between SOC and Voltage. So you are just playing the voltage game when the whole point of "balancing" is to balance the number of amp hours in each cell.

On Amazon the Ad seems to suggest its got Low Temp cut off, did you see anything like that?