Відео

@@chrisbradford9904 The most likely culprit are the wire taps where you tapped into the wires from the ECU harness. One of them came loose on me too after a bit and I got the red light. Reset the crimp and it fixed it. I would check those connections first.

The Power Commander 5 software www.dynojet.com/downloads/power-commander-v/

Nope, don't need to. But it might drip a little from the pulse cover when you take it off, so put a bowl under it when you do.

@@lonelyryder7441 Good to know:) Thanks

Indeed!

Just a warning light.

I think it is worth it, but keep in mind this only seems to work on the 03 and 04 years as some people in the comments here have pointed out. Kawasaki must have changed something in the later years, so this trick doesn't work on 05 and 06 year models. You would need to buy an STV-E bypass plug from Healtech for those.

Awesome thanks mate

There's no way to know, but it should at least get you close in most spots of the fuel table. It will run better with it than without it for sure.

Sorry I didn't reply, the last week for me has been a nightmare. I'm not sure off the top of my head, If I have time after work tomorrow I'll lift the tank up on mine and take a look.

If you are talking about the black connector right beside the two connectors for the exhaust servo, it is unused on your bike. It is only for the California models because they have an extra exhaust component (EVAP system). But Suzuki only made one wire harness for all their bikes, so on the non-Cali bikes it just hangs there not connected to anything.

I'm in the U.S. and I bought it for $3,000. But that was 7 years ago.

Yessir, makes a WORLD of difference!

@@mouhamedh2029 If it connects to the coils, that’s an “Ignition Module”. It is NOT the same as an “Expansion Module”. They have different functions.

@@smoothrider7521 I don’t know for sure, I’ve never had a busa, but Suzuki builds all of their GSXRs very similarly so there is a good chance it’s the same or close to it.

@@lonelyryder7441 thanks

@@jpvanderberg9990 Is the FI light on?

@@lonelyryder7441 yes sir

@@jpvanderberg9990 Then it is stuck in limp mode. Someone else on here said that this mod did not work on their 06 model. From what I can tell, this trick only seems to work with the 03 and 04 models. Something is different in the 05 and 06 years. What year is yours?

@@lonelyryder7441 06

Then you have three options. 1, Plug the motor back in and forget about the mod. 2, Pull the airbox out and physically remove the plates instead. 3, Go to the Healtech website and buy a bypass plug to remove the F.I. light. webshop.healtech-electronics.com/shop/stve/ Use the drop-down menu to select STVE-07, you can double check to make sure that's the right model for your bike with their compatibility checker.

I do it just to be cautious.

Pulling the black and white wire from the ECU connector keeps the F.I. light from coming on due to the SET valve being unhooked. The Code C44 plug that you see in the beginning of the video, keeps the F.I. light from coming on due to the O2 sensor being removed from the exhaust. They serve two different purposes.

Yes. If you physically remove the plates, you don't need the bypass plug either.

@@lonelyryder7441 I don’t need the stv eliminator if I remove the plates ?

Even if I have the fi code and the stv eliminator says it removes that code

@@Bbledsoe69 The FI light only comes on from unhooking the motor. If you remove the plates, but just leave the motor hooked up, it shouldn’t throw a code. The motor will still turn the shaft but with no plates on them they shouldn’t affect anything. I’m pretty sure it would work, unless there is a sensor somewhere that would still throw a code, but I don’t think there is. You could always try it and see. Unless you are getting the code because your stv motor is not working.

@@lonelyryder7441 yeah my stv motor ain’t working dealership said I had to get a whole new stva

Maybe the plug you got is defective or the wrong model? I'm not sure.

Glad it helped

Yes, I know the TPS doesn't just read 0%, as I show in the video it reading between 0%-100%. The reason I shifted the TPS so that it wouldn't read down to 0%, is because the ECU is programmed to shut off fuel if it sees the throttle go to 0%. Making the TPS floor 1% or 2% instead of 0% prevents the ECU from doing this. Changing the TPS range to 2%-100% (or 1%-100%, whichever you prefer) shifts it only very slightly out of calibration, not "WAY" off as you suppose. It's negligible enough that there is no negative impact on the bike's performance, all I needed to do was a slight retune of my PCV fuel tweaks in the 2%-20% throttle columns, that's all. Bike runs great!

I’m sure you do, I have an 07’ 750 and for some reason my silver plates are missing on all 4 of the intakes on the throttle body. We put a rag over to simulate the plates being closed and somehow the bike was starting each time.

@@jordanleonard8198 thanks for the reply. My bike is strictly for the road, would you recommend me removing the stve or don’t bother?

I'm not sure I understand the question. You mean you bought a bike that has an STV Eliminator already on it?

@@lonelyryder7441yes

I would just leave it on, I think the bikes run better without the STV. But that's just my opinion.

Where's the fun in that? ;) Personally, I don't trust those things, I like to do it manually. But that's just my opinion, to be fair I should at least mention autotune in the video description as an alternative option. I'll do that later tonight.

@@lonelyryder7441 The woolich autotune logs all the a/f numbers and smooths them out. it also tunes IAP as well as the TPS maps. does a lot that the DynoJet cannot.

@@MrBigSp00n In that case, if I used one, I would prefer the woolich. I like being able to SEE what it's doing.

95% sensitivity / 40 engine revolutions / +10% fuel

Wow, I had to dig pretty hard for this one. Based on the fitment list on the site below you need to buy both Rod-A and Rod-C and cut them down to make them shorter. If you scroll down to the list it says "GSX-R 600 2008 :PUSH Type One (1) Shift Rod A + One (1) Shift Rod C (remove/cut off 3 section from each rod)" www.sportbiketrackgear.com/dynojet-power-commander-shift-rod-a/ Hope it works out for you, that's the best I can do!

@@lonelyryder7441 thank you so much for my bike its hard to upgrade it the 06-07 and 2011-2025 they are super easy to mod but my 2008-2010 nothing.

I am using the PCV software from dynojet and using the PCV to read the throttle percentages, You could also read the wire voltages with a multimeter instead. www.dynojet.com/downloads/power-commander-v/

@@lonelyryder7441 thanks for responding I really appreciate it

@@bribbripnairbnab7301 yes, it’s all the K5 motor!

I should make a video on that sometime, but in short it's a great bike. It has the best version of the legendary K5 motor, an engine that Suzuki still uses to this day in their naked GSX-S1000 and its variants. It was also the first bike that Suzuki introduced the selectable drive mode system on (something that didn't exist yet at the time). But one big complaint that fans had about the 07-08 was that it was heavier than the previous gen, but most of that extra weight was because emissions got stricter that year and it needed a bigger/heavier exhaust to meet regs. But everyone removes the stock exhaust anyway ;). The other thing fans complained about was the hydraulic clutch, it just made no sense. Why would you put a luxury item that adds more weight onto a race bike that is supposed to be as light as possible? It was a stupid idea, which is why they went back to a cable system in 2009. If you want proof of the K5's legendary status, just watch the video below. Watch it to the end. :) ua-cam.com/video/q0O8Q0x38mI/v-deo.html

Do you have the same bike as me? 07-08 GSXR1000?

@@vjames888 you can use some if you want, but I personally don’t bother.

@@ItalianRacingTeamTV you don’t need to remove it, just block it off from getting air from the air box somehow when you are tuning so it doesn’t throw off your oxygen sensor.

​@@lonelyryder7441​ thank you. I installed only the pc5. The pair is working and everything is running fine (at the moment Lol)

Glad it helped you!

Sure thing!

Funny thing is a lot of people don't realize that Kawasaki tried to remake the Gen 1 Z1000 with the new Z900s out. The Gen 1 Z1000 had a 953cc inline 4 with a stock HP of 125. The new Z900 has a 948cc inline 4 with a stock HP of 125. Almost identical engine sizes with the same power output. They are both really Z950s actually.

@@lonelyryder7441 lol. I noticed that also the thousand was a 953 , then it was 1,052 Now the 900 is 953

Sim, é acionado por mola para permanecer aberto quando os cabos são removidos.

@@cshoga011 Nope, sorry.

Grips: www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rizoma-sport-78-grips?sku_id=1279754 Clip-ons (50mm size): www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/driven-racing-halo-clip-on-risers?sku_id=1225493 Installation Video: ua-cam.com/video/3Ixi62qqxSE/v-deo.html

@@lonelyryder7441 thank you 🙏🏻

Unfortunately, I no longer have this bike so any help I could offer would have to be from memory. What's wrong?

@@lonelyryder7441 i need to send you a picture of au wheel spacer i don't know where it comes from ^^

Wheel spacers are in the video at the 12:17 and 23:48 time markers.

@@lonelyryder7441 thank you. The fact is i have one more and can't remember wher it comes from. i tried to paste a link to an image but i couldn't :(

Find it. For those who want to change the rear crown,be careful when you remove it. There's a small piece witch looks like a wheel spacer but it's not. It belongs to the inner part of the crown support.