Відео

Thanks for watching and commenting - appreciated! (Scotty)

Hi Bob - I hope this will help....... pscan.uk/ It's £180 plus shipping. The ECU list (at pscan.uk/features/eculist.html) lists the MGF as having a MEMS2J ECU so it looks like your car will be supported. You should also find plenty of support at www.the-t-bar.com/forum/pscan-uk-diagnostic-tool-forum . Good luck! (Scotty)

SWAMPY: Hi... this was quite some while ago and I don't remember to be perfectly honest. We didn't adjust the connecting rod length and it was my understanding (I think) that the boost pressure and overall perfmance of the engine would be used to determine the actuator position. I could well be wrong though! Do you have any good data sources?

SWAMPY: Well we didn't think you'd ever see this #embarrassed# lol I don't actually know how long Scotty spent doing this... but we were amazed... Scotty?

Well, I’m pleased you saw it 😀 I remember quite a few fun hours over a week or so doing the puzzle. It’s now back in its box and I am planning to do it again, frame it and mount it on the wall in my new workshop when it’s built next year. You probably get asked this lots - but, if you’re up for helping out a small channel that’s struggling to grow, any likes, subscribes or mentions would be SO much appreciated. If not - no worries - you’re still the best motoring channel or there!! Cheers!! (Scotty)

Hi - Stoney Racing, via eBay. www.ebay.co.uk/str/stoneyracing (Scotty)

Hi - thanks for your comment - even if I say so myself, I have to agree - it does sound pretty good. It also passes sound checks at the Bedford Autodrome trackdays, and isn't 'borderline' so ought to be OK anywhere. For whatever reason, I don't have a record of the exhaust I bought. I usually keep e-mails, invoices etc... but for some reason I don't have anything for this one. However - I am 99% certain that it was this.... www.mgfntfbitz.co.uk/shop/supersport-stainless-exhaust-mgf-mk2-mg-tf-mid-volume/ .... but can't 100% guarantee it. If I do find any documentation I'll update you. Cheers! (Scotty)

@@DoubleDuckGarage thanks mate I think you have the super spots I have the standard exhaust s/s but after hearing yours I am sold 👍

read the codes

Hi, thanks for watching. Mine made a loud rattling noise when unlocking and jammed a couple of times leaving me unable to open the door. A safety and convenience issue as well as being a serious annoyance. You could try lubricating the mechanism - certainly no harm doing that. There’s nothing you need to do to do to get the lock working with the fob. The fob transmits to a controller module - which switches power to the lock. There’s no ‘intelligence’ in the lock so nothing to re-code/reset etc… Let us know how you get on. (Scotty)

@@ScottyDawg that's good to know, thanks for the tips

It seemed daft not to do the job when I'd done so much work to date and I was fitting the silicon hoses anyway. But... you make a very good point!! 🤣🤣 (Scotty)

Hi Jake! Have you also been caught out in Australia by the fella who has stolen our logo? I'm really sorry to hear if you have. He's nothing to do with us and we have contacted Facebook to try and get it removed. He goes under classic 4x4 garage.

Hi Jake - he has removed our logo from his Facebook page now as we released this….. This guy has stolen our logo!! He is nothing to do with us!! ua-cam.com/video/1ONIy0vI5Rw/v-deo.html I am also sorry he scammed you - we know you are not the only one. We are extremely angry about what he has done - we’re just two amateur guys working from our own homes not trying to sell anything and just enjoy our hobby. Scotty.

Hi, our research led us to believe it's best to go with 0.002" - 0.004". I have seen other figures quoted with wider tolerances but all of mine, when I rebuilt my 135's engine, were in that range anyway. (Scotty)

SWAMPY: Thank you :) We'll certainly look at whatever we can to sort it out!

SWAMPY: Thanks @monturrahman878, appreciate the help. We've reported it for copyright breach and impersonation using the Report feature on Facebook a few times. Not sure if we can use trade mark as it's not officially one... but we'll certainly look into it. Thank you!

Thank you. We’ve had a complaint from an Australian chap this morning saying he’s been scammed 400AUD. Assuming this allegation is legitimate and so far we have no reason not to believe it, then this is more serious than just us being a bit annoyed. We’re definitely following it up as, apart from not wanting an undeserved reputation, we don’t want to see anyone get ripped off. (Scotty)

SWAMPY: What would you say it is?

@DoubleDuckGarage looks like an old ford to me

@@DGFA- Hi, firstly I would check that it’s definitely hot air from the heater causing the problem. You’d almost certainly know if you have a coolant leak near the heater valve/ashtray from the smell of anti-freeze, so it’s probably not that. If something electrical is getting hot then you’d smell it, so probably not that either. Worth checking though, just to discount them and confirm that it’s definitely heater / coolant related. If you have warm / hot air from the vents continuously and can’t get cold air then the heater valve could be the culprit but if you can get cold air from the vents then the problem may be elsewhere. Is the engine running too hot - do you get any problems with engine overheating? You could also check that the heater ducts aren’t faulty and sending hot air the wrong way. I’ve never noticed that area of either of the two TF’s I’ve owned being hot in that area so it does sound like something’s not right. I guess you could lift the centre console and have a look - check the insulation is in place, check for leaks etc… I hope that helps, at least a little. Let us know how you get on. (Scotty)

@@ScottyDawg Thanks for the tip. It behaves like this: when the console gets hot, only hot air comes out of the ventilation slots. The console only heats up after the journey has taken a while. The water temperature indicator is then in the middle and the oil temperature is around 120 degrees. Is it already too hot? I started observing this behavior about three months ago. Someone in a forum said it was normal because the heating pipes run along there. At the time it was still cold outside and the heating was on. But now in the hot temperatures the heating is completely off and yet this heat is still developing. I don't smell any strange smells, so after analyzing the respective causes I think it could be the heating valve. I haven't taken the console apart yet to take a look at the inside because I don't yet know how to take it apart without damaging it.

SWAMPY: Thank you so much for watching :) definitely going to try and keep this project going and keep you all updated :) Part 2 will be out soon :) did you have a particular favourite bit of the vid?

SWAMPY: Thanks for Watching... there were quite a lot of these made in the years before 91 so they don't command huge sums until the later models of which there are less. Even more so the Jap spec engines with twin turbo. May I ask where you are located roughly? We'd love to see that other car!

SWAMPY: Hi there and thanks for watching our channel. I'd love to answer your question directly, but there are many things that could be causing this. My recommendation would be to get the error codes read by a code reader in the first instance. Have a great day!

Congratulations on completing your rebuild 👍 The first thing I would check is that you have replaced all the vacuum hoses. I forgot one on my VVC 160 project car and it idled very badly. I'm assuming it's a petrol engine, so did you use fresh fuel? Unleaded starts to degrade after six months or so. Also double check the spark plug gaps. The condition of the plugs could also tell you if the engine is being under or over fuelled. are they covered in black soot (over fuelling) or very white (under fuelling)? Check the cylinder compression as well - if one is low then maybe there was a problem during reassembly. Do you have a PSCAN diagnostics reader - if so, does that give you any codes? It's difficult to diagnose an engine without seeing and hearing it, but I hope these will help and point you in the right direction. (Scotty)

Hi Sergei - this video might help you with testing the injectors. They are awkward to get to and unfortunately I didn't show the full strip down but, if I remember correctly, the fuel rail is unbolted after you have removed the inlet manifold. The injectors are between the common fuel rail and the inlet manifold. ua-cam.com/video/na0zLjFd62I/v-deo.htmlsi=RWjpzSIytudkNmje (Scotty)

If you have not done so already, check the timing and spark. Check that then fuel pump relay works, the pump runs and that the fuel pressure is approximately 3 bar. If fuel is spraying into two cylinders but not the other two, then you may have an electrical problem which you can identify using a scope or, as you suggested, blocked or failed injectors. (Scotty)

I would be worth checking the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors as the ECU will use these to time the injection and spark. What engine do you have? 1.6, 1.8, VVC ? (Scotty)

I can diagnose diesel engines well, I have diagnostics, not an electrician's problem for me. It has a 160 hp gasoline engine. behind there is a car mg. Fuel gets into two cylinders, but not into the next two, there is a spark everywhere. I think that if there is a spark, then the crankshaft and camshaft sensors are working. Otherwise the computer would not create a spark. Two cylinders are working, but that’s not enough; at least one more is needed.

Thank you, I did not expect such a detailed answer. I am from Russia and live in France. I am interested in the question of how to remove the indicators on this engine and how to put them in a condition so that the engine can be started. This car is for sale, it doesn’t need to be done well. I need to demonstrate that the engine has started, nothing more is required from me.

SWAMPY: yeah.. its true. Got it off the car, found that mess, flushed the whole system and replaced drier, condenser, compressor and oil it was back up and running the next day :)

SWAMPY: Thanks for watching and we all love it when someone can get some use out of our experiences :) Have you replaced your own struts now?

Were you able to sort it? How many times did that rotate in 250k miles? Quite amazing engineering to operate in that environment for so long!! (Scotty)

@@DoubleDuckGarageI just changed it for a new turbo yesterday so I’ll have to give it a week or so to see if my oil consumption goes down, I’ve been burning 1qt per 125 miles!

Not an awful job but it does require some patience - it’s worth it just not to have that heavy hatch land on your head!! 🤣 Nicely done!! (Scotty)

Thank you for your great feedback - much appreciated 😀 Good luck with your project - I hope it all goes well! (Scotty)

Thanks for watching! (Scotty)

Hello, how can I connect to the Rover 216 vehicle computer? Hi, I am not familiar with the 216 but found this: www.mg-rover.org/threads/diagnostic-connector.261607/ The J1692 connector is just behind the center console in the drivers footwell. In production many of the connectors were clipped into the metal bracket the wrong way around with the contacts facing the rear of the cigarette lighter. There are two photos here (for a right hand drive car): www.mg-rover.org/threads/obd-port.866373/ It looks like your ECU could be MEMS 1.9 and this is supported by PSCAN. If your car is pre-1995 the connector is different and is in the engine bay near the battery. I don’t know if that is PSCAN compatible. You might be able to find out more at: www.the-t-bar.com/forum/pscan-uk-diagnostic-tool-forum I hope Google translates this well enough to make sense :-) (Scotty) Merhaba, 216'ya aşina değilim ama şunu buldum: www.mg-rover.org/threads/diagnostic-connector.261607/ J1692 konektörü, sürücünün ayak bölmesindeki orta konsolun hemen arkasında bulunur. Üretimde, konektörlerin çoğu, temas noktaları çakmağın arkasına bakacak şekilde metal brakete yanlış şekilde kırpılmıştı. İşte iki fotoğraf (sağdan direksiyonlu araba için): www.mg-rover.org/threads/obd-port.866373/ Görünüşe göre ECU'nuz MEMS 1.9 olabilir ve bu PSCAN tarafından desteklenmektedir. Eğer aracınız 1995 öncesiyse konnektör farklıdır ve motor bölmesinde akünün yanındadır. Bunun PSCAN uyumlu olup olmadığını bilmiyorum. Daha fazla bilgiyi şu adreste bulabilirsiniz: www.the-t-bar.com/forum/pscan-uk-diagnostic-tool-forum Umarım Google bunu anlamlı olacak kadar iyi çevirir :-) (Scotty)

SWAMPY: Thanks for Watching our channel Anton... please subscribe and like the videos which will help us out no end fighting against "the algorithm" :) May I ask a few questions? What hardware interface are you using? Which software do you mean? We all use the pscan interface with its corresponding software. If you are using a generic obd2 interface then the pscan software won't work with it and won't help. Pscan software is available at pscan.uk/ but without the specific hardware it won't help you.

Agreed - maybe they need just a little more maintenance than other vehicles - but the moment the roof comes down on a nice bright day it’s worth all the effort! (Scotty)

Hi, it was a few years ago so not 100% certain but I am pretty sure I bought the wrap, isopropyl alcohol, tools etc… from here. www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/vehicle-wrapping Are you thinking of giving it a go? If so, have fun!! It’s a challenge but quite satisfying 😀

I’ve got to replace some of the wrap on Christine this year - it only lasts 4-5 years when the car is outdoors. (Scotty.)

The most likely cause of PSM failure is a wheel speed sensor and a code read will confirm that for you (assuming no wiring issues). Potentially the ABS module itself and the Throttle Position Sensor can cause PSM issues as can a bad battery. If you haven’t done a code read yet, that’s the first job. Hopefully you’ll have a nice cheap repair 🤞 (Scotty)

SWAMPY: Thank you for watching and glad you found it helpful! Sounds like you managed to get things working well again! Anything else you would like to see?

Hi Johan, I have not got a definitive explanation for this but I think this could be expected behaviour because my engine definitely runs without over fuelling and as you can see from the videos all I ended up doing was cleaning the fuel system end to end. So best guess is that either the ECU is compensating for a fault or it simply uses parallel injection to help the engine start. I have always meant to research this further but the best I have found so far is www.mgfcar.de/library/ENGINE_MANAGEMENT_SYSTEM_%20MPi_VVC_MEMS_3.htm . What I have learnt is that the ECU initially uses its built in map until the lambda sensors are hot enough to go closed loop. This map provides extra fuel for a cold start as you’d expect. So, maybe this map also uses parallel injection initially to help start the engine? Sorry I can’t help more but at the moment my best guess is that the ECU is doing what it’s programmed to do and once the engine is running it will switch to sequential injection. (Scotty)

Okay, I'm back on the MG. My apologies Scotty, been sidetracked on to so many projects in the meantime - Thank you, I will study the ECU material you send me and will report. I think it might be a faulty lambda sensor, because she smokes like an Ugrian rocket, and it is not oil! @@DoubleDuckGarage

Will be interesting to see how you get on - let us know 👍 Cheers! (Scotty.)

I think the problem hides somewhere in these two paragraphs below. Maybe one of your sensors did not make good connection, hench the bad injection during testing. With my MG everything was together, but with testing the injection was similar to yours, so, I must do some more digging and testing. I must mention, she was running perfectly and started smoking suddenly. Thanks for the heads-up, I think I'm going in the wright direction! ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM CMP Reluctor - MPi and VVC Engines The reluctor consists of a single "tooth" design which extends over 180°of the camshaft"s rotation, for this reason it is known as a half moon cam wheel. The half moon cam wheel reluctor enables the ECM to provide sequential fuel injection at start up, but it cannot provide a back-up signal in cases of CKP sensor failure. If the CMP sensor signal is missing, the engine will still start and run, but the fuel injection may be out of phase. This will be noticeable by a reduction in performance and driveability, together with an increase in fuel consumption and emissions. As the camshaft rotates the signal will switch between the high and low voltages. The position of the half moon cam wheel relative to the camshaft is not adjustable. The air gap between the CMP sensor tip and the half moon cam wheel is not adjustable. Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor The output signal from the MAP sensor, together with the CKP and IAT sensors, is used by the ECM to calculate the amount of air induced into the cylinders. This enables the ECM to determine ignition timing and fuel injection duration values. The MAP sensor receives a 5V ±4% supply voltage from the ECM and provides the ECM with an analogue signal which relates to the absolute manifold pressure and allows the ECM to calculate engine load. If the MAP signal is missing, the ECM will substitute a default manifold pressure reading based on crankshaft speed and throttle angle. The engine will continue to run with reduced driveability and increased emissions, although this may not be immediately apparent to the driver. The ECM will store fault codes which can be retrieved using TestBook. @@DoubleDuckGarage

SWAMPY: Thank you so much for watching and leaving a comment; it really does mean a lot, even more so that it has been helpful! How are you getting on with your fix/build?

Hi, I recently had broken pipe right before dpf, drove on highway and sundenly was a big booom under the car, felt under my feet, was gas 💥 explosion in pipe after that I didn't have enough power. I push pedal to the metal, revs goes up to 3000-3500 and only then stitches in Gear but no power. Pulls so slowly... Uphilss im stucked on low speed and everyone so pissses behind me. You think turbo said caui bella too after explosion? Best regards Kris Just started to follow u. Goor stuff mate!

SWAMPY: Hi and thanks for watching! I'd say the best thing to do would be to take off the intake that goes to the turbo inlet amd a look. If you take the right amount off you can see inside the turbo as per the video. This will let you know if anything is majorly broken. There shouldn't be any play in the turbo spindle and it should spin freely by hand. Hope this helps

@@DoubleDuckGarage tnx mate ill give a try and see what's up... Also is it tru if you keep Manifold pipe pushed with hand and if someone revs up it should expand? Is it turbo or something else does it 😅

Do you have a favourite? MG F by any chance? (Scotty)

@@DoubleDuckGarage to be honest the Sri was a great car, super handling. Our first Ford Focus was super reliable, a 52 plate, cost 4k and we had it for 14 years, and the only issue with it was every 4 years it needed a new speed sensor in the gearbox. Mgf was great fun, top down, she’s been sorn for 8 years now, I have however put the head back on, thanks to so handy UA-cam videos showing the process lol. Worst car was the first galaxy, was the vw partnership one, needed fixed every week. Did improve my car repair skills though!

It's a sonoff basic, modified with tasmota, a ds18b20 and connected to home assistant via home assistant Cloud:)

SWAMPY: So many times now it's misheard me but it does seem to be getting better... had any funny moments with yours?

I have made several pipes completely forgetting the connectors - so frustrating! 🤣 (Scotty)

Hi - it's not sold yet. Actually I have not listed it anywhere as I am still finishing off a few jobs. There'll be a video in the not too distant future (storms permitting - it's not coming out from under it's nice warm cover at the moment!) showing the final work and then I'll think about selling. Cheers! (Scotty.)

SWAMPY: Thanks for letting us know :) We've updated the title to reflect that it's not for the car battery but is for a key fob/remote :) We hope you enjoyed it anyway?

We’re just amateurs learning as we go but we usually get there in the end. I did have an ex Porsche mechanic tell me it would be the loom as they are a common failure but obviously not this time. I’d never even heard of the magnetic ring in the bearing before but definitely know to be more careful next time! 🤣🤣 (Scotty)

@@DoubleDuckGarage I had a similar thing when I replaced a wheel bearing on a Honda Civic and Euro car parts supplied the wrong bearing that didn’t have the magnetic part to it and after replacing the wheel bearing the ABS didn’t work and the light was on and then we learn that there were two different types, however Euro car parts refuse to refund for all of the labour to take the old wheel bearing out because it was their mistake as they knew the reg number of the car

@@Eatcrow ECP are my least favourite parts supplier at the moment, TBH. I only use them when I have to - i.e. I can't get the part anywhere else. Their customer service leaves a lot to be desired in my personal opinion. Swampy has had better experiences with them than I have, I believe. IMHO GSF and Autodoc are the better options. (Scotty.)

SWAMPY: Thanks for Watching and taking the time to comment. We had the issue that the vvc gaskets seemed thicker and we couldn't get them on properly and we're pinching... it just didn't seem right. Either way... it went back together after deciding thay mechanical force had actually seated things correctly and there were no leaks! Do you have any recommendations?