Відео

@@MrClembm devilibis

Yes, my car was a clear run. I'm assuming would work on single stage paint as well

Are you assuming it had major issues? What makes you think that?

i know the 4.6 2v are bulletproof but i've heard running over 8 pounds of boost for a while will blow it up, then again i've never had proof of that

@@refinedautodesigns this might sound ignorant but i was hoping to one day supercharge my crown vic and i dont want to spend a ton of money just to blow it up

They aren't bulletproof but nothing wrong with 9lbs with a good Dyno tune. I currently have a bit of timing pulled for longevity. Making around 430.

Raises entire area so you don't sand through the clear next to the run. Also kind of acts as a guide coat too

Still fine. It's all in the prep

@@refinedautodesigns nice. That's what I wanted to hear! Thanks

No. They had a protective layer of dirt

Depends on how big and deep lettering is I guess. What year and type of tailgate?

@@refinedautodesigns its a 24 ford Maverick

@@davou000 have a 23 maverick myself. They are pretty shallow. I'd probably grind inside and around the letters, fill with fiberglass reinforced filler, top with a good lightweight filler, prime and paint. Could make letter patches and weld, unless your a pro, probably warp the panel. Maverick metal is thin

@@refinedautodesigns thats dope advice man thanks. I think I'll go with the filler and then wrap for good measure, but try to match paint regardless. Thank you!

Good point. I'll do some more research. I thought the opposite, increases temps while re-burning exhaust for emissions. Might remove the block off plate after some digging. Thanks

Yes. Think there was a part 2 video. Don't remember. Topped with a thin glaze, primed, blocked, painted. Still looks great

I've wrapped the edges of the razor blade then cut it down before. Whatever works for you. Mine was on a curve and I feel puddy works better

Factory originals. Removed for prepping for paint. Just cleaned

Thanks. Glad it's helping people

Painted and cleared. Got a run in the clear. Did this method and done. No repainting

There is body filler and body glaze. Same are the same thing but glaze is thinner for small imperfections like pin holes and chips. Many brands of each. I think I was using USC Icing. Hope it helps

@@refinedautodesigns You did I understand thank you

I hear you. Yeah 9lbs with the big mouth kit, cams, headers, full exhaust. Dyno tune. Wideband in the car too. Still runs strong. I wouldn't push the block past that.

Nope. Is that single stage enamel? Must be durable

@refinedautodesigns I used a rattle can on a motorcycle. It's a satin black that looks a lot like Harkey-Davidson's Black Denim. It still looks good almost 10 years later.

No issues. Looks good

No. It's urethane single stage paint with flattening agents.

?

Sure. Tractor paint is probably a single stage enamel.

As long as you prep right, sand well, and understand high and lows with body work, I think you'll be ok. That's how you learn. I wouldn't say it's easy though

They call it a 2k urethane single stage topcoat. No clear over it. It's not base coat. Has uv protection like clear coat. Hope it helps

If the run is gone but it's wavy, it probably wasn't blocked even enough. It happens. Probably need to block straight, spot prime the breakthrough, and repaint panel. Runs can get ya!

@@refinedautodesigns This is ridiculous I know how to sand filler and primer not paint.Its like sanding hard plastic I cant seem to manage.

I didn't have any over spray on the cars, but wouldn't recommend having them that close. Thanks for commenting

Thanks. 93 octane

@@refinedautodesigns Awesome thanks for the reply! Did you have any runability or tuning issues with the aftermarket cams? I know yours are only stage 1 but I heard of some issues with the KB and aftermarket cams.

No issues. They are mild. Tuner was surprised how well they are with forced induction. Cams are just about same lift, just more duration.

@@refinedautodesigns Great! Thanks for the quick reply!

I ceramic sprayed it. Looks the same. Water beads like crazy.

It's 2k body glaze. Thin runny filler. Dries like regular filler. 10 minutes or so

@@refinedautodesigns thanks, I bought some compound polish 😆

@@charlesmcgee9016 haha need those too

www.urechem-paints.com/color-systems/

Base coat was about 500. Clear coat around 200. I had my high build primers and other stuff.

No long shot. Hard to believe it was that long ago. Actually listed for sale on marketplace in SC. Have a mod list posted. Heads are stock, VT stage 1 cams, and supporting mods like headers and full exhaust.

@@refinedautodesigns awesome thank you!!