Відео

No. -- Exact same result on 2 separate occasions, once using a magnetic ballast, the other using an electronic ballast. These lamps are just garbage.

mine are T15 star drive

I agree regarding modern tools, but in my lifetime I used many old vintage USA brushed tools and never once had one fail so quickly. Most lasted decades and with regular use. This is just Chinese junk.

@@bigslick I almost wanna say the motors are also being overvoulted. That can also cause the brushes that go out sooner. That motor doesn't look much bigger than an R. C car motor for like a one seventh 1/7 oR 1/5 scale r c car

@@hellhound-si5oz it is a tiny motor, for sure.

True regarding the reputation, but this setup here has been in daily use since approx 1979 and never once had that type of failure.

No issues at all. Use your file manager to create the same directory structure that you see in the video.

@@bigslick got it, thanks!

new NiMH or Lithium batteries. Dont use anything else. If that doesn't solve it, then I dont have any other suggestions.

@@bigslick thank you for advice. My last resort is switching the lens module from donor camera.

yes, it will turn on (may take 15-20 seconds), screen will come on and say NO CARD.

@@bigslick ok thanks for your help mine must be broken. It only turns on properly when I connect the usb to a wall plug but then it turns off as soon as I remove the usb.

@@isabelbyarugaba2008 AA batteries may be weak. Need to use either rechargeable NiMH or Lithium AA. I find that nothing else works.

@@bigslick that’s brilliant thank you so much for your help!

@@isabelbyarugaba2008 Worth a try. I know these models definitely do not work right with standard AA "heavy duty" batteries or generic AA "general purpose" batteries, and sometimes wont run very long with Alkaline either. But they run good with NiMH rechargeable and Lithium AA.

My 5050 with latest firmware has no problem using a Silicon Power 2GB CompactFlash. Did you format the card inside the camera? It often doesn't work if the card is formatted in a PC or other camera.

Well, there is not any newer update for the 800UZ so I would not worry about it. But for your issue, I would use a different USB port and-or a new USB cable.

There are at least three or four other people on UA-cam who show you exactly how to change the blower motor on a C4 Corvette. It's quite easy and only requires simple hand tools.

@@ZBrink11 yes I figured it out thank you and it did the charm .

WD works perfect. Been using it for 40 years. It's a cleaner, not really a lubricant, regardless of what it says on the can. The tiny bit that it takes to clean off the paste, a mcdonald's napkin will get it bone-dry with a few wipes.

not economically feasible, you can find nice working C-5050 for well less than $50. Usually I see them for around $30.

​@@bigslickyea its about around $30 dollar, the cons is the screen is wrinkled from outside, and viewfinder little bit dusty, but it stiil alive, what do i do? Should i take it? With that cons

1) Having owned an A205 for 20 years (as of April 2004) and used almost daily for that entire time, I can say with certainty that occasionally the startup will be slower than other times for completely unknown reason. It has always been that way. I have assumed that it may have something to do with having to charge the flash if it had not been started-up for a while, and these models rely on firing the flash for almost all photos. Another possibility is that I have noticed that this model seems to startup slower if the settings had been wiped due to the dead backup battery, and the startup is always faster when the settings have been retained. So since the settings were wiped when the new battery was installed, the first startup was slower. So probably one of those reasons. I now own several A205 and A210, and they all behave like this. 2) Re - Trying to charge the old battery... I am not worried about that. That old battery is totally open-circuit. 3) Supercap is definitely a possibility. I may do one of these with a supercap, but I honestly just did not want to spend any extra money on the project. I had small button cell batteries that I was not going to use for anything else, so the repair was free. There's no room to put a supercap in the same location as the old battery, so it would still have to be routed into the same location as the button cell battery. It really does not need to be insulated, there is only plastic around that area where I tucked it in, and once the cover is replaced, there is no way for the battery to relocate itself elsewhere. Of course, nothing wrong with putting heatshrink or tape around it.

@@bigslick yes, it's probably the settings being lost the camera will try to charge the flash by default. Not enough space for a supercap: I've bought a batch of these of the same size and voltage with the 614 from AliExpress but now I wonder if they're really just plain 614 being palm off as "supercaps". A recent supercap I saw inside a Casio swivel lens camera has a supercap that looks like a short electrolytic, maybe that's the minimum size. BTW, have you come across any explanation as to why they can't just use the flash capacitor charge to keep the settings?

​@@himeccms893 The discharge pattern from the flash cap would probably damage the IC instantly, or at least cause glitches/corruption. If that would have worked, every manufacturer would have just tied the memory to the flash cap. Interesting that you mention buying the surface mount supercaps, I literally just placed a small order on Ali for a few of them to play with the concept. The electrolytic style supercaps are certainly legit, and I can surely mount a small size one (ie 1F value) in the same location as where I tucked the button cell battery.

Yes, very sad, shameful Junk. Thanks for sharing your experience.

good luck but they are terrible to deal with, unless you are lucky enough to have a repair center very close to you.

agreed, you are 100% correct. TTI/Ryobi should be ashamed of this product, and the lack of a real warranty. They could easily accept warranty dropoffs at their Direct Tools outlet stores, but they refuse to do so.

they look inferior to me but I have not torn one apart

Which is why the tutorial shows running a virtual machine inside of Win 11 to accomplish the task