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Good morning - that's a good question - I focus around the middle of the design area ( not necessarily the biggest part of the design) but more to the middle of the height of where it will sit

I did a video on where to find it on Thunder Laser USA and how to load it - the video is on my homepage - here : ua-cam.com/video/F3Yq0HJ_TF0/v-deo.html. I have since added my own settings and new materials to it ( so much better than writing them in a notebook). if you want my current version of settings I am happy to email it to you - just email me and i will send it . Cheers!

Good morning Candy! Glad it helped. One change - there isn't always air coming from the nozzle as I originally thought - the air flow I was experiencing was coming from the exhaust fan. This doesn't change anything as to how or when i use air, but just FYI. Cheers!

Good morning Sharon. Thanks for the kind comments and congrats on the new laser! I am not sure if the Piburn or Roto boss will work on the Aurora LITE but I will ask. Great to hear you are making some great products for the holiday seasons. Thanks again for tuning in and if you have any questions with the LITE, when it arrives please feel free to ask and I will help if I can. Cheers and all the best!

Morning Pete! I am not sure but will ask. Thanks!

Good morning Steve and congrats on the new Laser. Thanks for your kind comments - I am happy they have been a little helpful. Have a nice week !

Cheers Bob!

Good day Steve. So far I am 10 months in and no troubles at all. The wheels are holding up just fine - I have no issues - however It appears I may clean my machine more often than some ( from comments I receive). I alwaus clean the rails and wheels whenever I clean the mirrors/lens, cause I use alcohol wipes and it only takes a minute so I run the wipe along the rail runways and also wipe off the wheels. It's super quick nd i think its good to keep the runways clear and wheels clean from debris. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!

Hey thanks very much Jene. I hope you have been enjoying yours as well. I am not sure yet as I have not started working on copper yet - I know it will ciut through very thin aluminum cards but have not tried it yet. Thanks - have a great week!

@@LaserNUG Looking forward to you cutting thin copper and aluminum foil. Thanks again.

Thanks!

Good morning Josh. I am sorry I don't have a template - I just made it up previously and saved it. But if it is helpful, some suggestions: start by making a rectangle shape, size it at 2.9" x 1.9", phone number, email address, a short description of what he creates or sells, a logo, if he has a website then create a QR code ( it is free in Lightburn - don't pay for one from another website), add the website URL, etc. Sorry I could not help more but I think these days, your business card is not a standard template like we were taught back in school - it is whatever design he wishes. Good luck and all the best! If you have other questions, please let me know.

I get it from Sign Source in Mississauga - it's called Paper Transfer Tape signsupplycanada.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=90_286_287

Cheers Gus! Say hi to Sally - hope you have had a nice summer together with your family. :))

Thanks Fred! Have a nice time in Houston and enjoy. Safe travels!

Thanks Dave! Have a great week mon ami!

It sure does. There are two videos on my channel homepage - one that shows it engraving and cutting and the other shows it cutting it. Cheers!

Also, try to find Cast acrylic mirror. I had extruded acrylic and it does not respond as well as cast acrylic. Let me know how it goes!

That's great to hear! You may find that different colours need more power (or not). I think I am currently running at 80% power 600mm and 800 LPI. So my cleanup is quick. Yes, I maintain a Materials Library in Lightburn. I am happy to share it but don't know how I would do that. I started with the base materials library from Thunder Laser USA a while ago and I add to it as I go.

@@LaserNUG I ended up dming you on FB. 🤘🏽

Good morning TEE. I think I am seeing that it does not make any difference on an engrave (fill) pass, so I don't change it anymore. But, it helps to minimize any scorching at the end/start when the laser slows down to turn a corner on a cut pass. Hard to describe but here is a link to the presentation Thunder Laser USA just released on MIn and Max power - perhaps it can help: show.zohopublic.com/publish/r4o8u38918e30faa443c98b581ff44c34067a. Let me know if that was helpful. Cheers!

@@LaserNUG Awesome, I will give it a look!

Good morning Patrik! Just worked in an office mostly but I do enjoy learning this laser. Cheers!

Good morning Holly!

Good morning Lisa :)

Good morning - great to hear! Congrats! Yes, me too - I prefer having the paper protection but sometimes mine comes with the clear film too. Have a great week and thanks for watching!

Good morning and thanks! I appreciate the helpful info. Have a nice week out there!

Hey good day Lisa. I seldom need air on an engrave and and have never had flames on Trilayer (Rowmark) - did you watch my video called "Quickshot- NEW Rowmark TriLayer settings for BOLT. 047" I just released it a month ago. here is the link ua-cam.com/video/pVF8gN-dlxc/v-deo.html . Many months ago I had settings that required a "Cross Hatch" and subsequently found out that we should not be running a crosshatch engrave pattern on the BOLT so I created new settings. Re: Materials Tests - this is why I rarely run them - I am not sure of the correct range for power versus speed and high power and low speed can be bad ( flames). So happy you were there to stop it. :)) If I may suggest, when running the Material tests , for the first one perhaps don't set too low a speed for a minimum ( ie start at 300 mm or so) and for the power , don't run a max too high ( perhaps end it at 70%) Then do a second card if you need to, to further refine the settings and run it again. Also, before you run the test, click on the "Edit Material Setting" in the bottom left hand corner and make sure it is set to "Fill", and maybe about 600 Lines Per Inch, and only 1 Pass. If you are running the test with Speed and Power as your testing, then don't worry about what the speed and power settings say in that window, as your test parameters over -ride it. Let me know if it works or if any of this helped a but. And feel free to ask any other questions. Good luck!

Also which model BOLT do you have - 30W version?

@@LaserNUG yes, 30W. Was told by Thunder support today that my air assist in LightBurn should always be on since we don’t have dual air assist. But everything I see from other Bolt owners states otherwise. Confusing for those of us rookies.

@@lisabays Yes it can be but I am only 8 months in and always willing to help. Try out my settings and see how it goes - and let me know. Re: The Air Assist: I don't use Air Assist but with very rare exception, on any engraves. The BOLT always has air coming out of the nozzle, even when you don't turn on the Air Assist - it's just very minimal. I only use it for cutting materials ( high power and low speed). But hey, I promise, as you try various materials you will quickly start getting a feel for power versus speed. :) Good luck! Just a question - was that Thunder Laser Canada or USA support that told you that?

@@LaserNUG Thunder Laser US

LOL! Morning Pete! I had to remove it and revise one part and then re-post it. :)) Have a great weekend!

Good morning. Yes, same here but it also happens with my BOLT RF CO2 laser. The time in Lightburn is usually different than my actual run time. Great to hear you are up and running!

Hey good morning - so very sorry for the inconvenience. I took it down because I made an incorrect change in part of the video and I didn't want you folks to change something wrong. I am re-editing it and promise it will be back up in the next day or so.My apologies. If you have a LITE, and a specific question, let me know and I will respond. Thanks GP

@@LaserNUG Thanks for the reply! Oh good, I'm not (totally) crazy lol. I remember seeing how you configured the LITE in Lightburn. We've got ours working, but I think you took some steps we haven't. So I'm mostly wanting to know all the steps you took to configure in Lightburn. Also, it seems that when I measure an object to engrave and specify the dimensions in Lightburn, the resultant red outline on the laser bed is much larger than the dimensions I specified. How do we make the framed red outline match the size we specify in Lightburn? Thank you for your videos! We are new to Fiber engraving but have been using CO2 for 10 years.

@@tuscarorawoodworks4713 LOL! Again, so sorry. The Video from Thunder Laser I referenced in the first video description is inaccurate, and my subsequent video was inaccurate. I am loading the revised video as I type and it should be public within the hour. If your scaling( size) between Lightburn and the laser is not correct, I will show you how to fix it in this video, but if you follow this revised video in an hour, it should scale perfectly for you. What I did myself, is I simply deleted (click "Remove" in the Device Menu) and I started over again. Again, I am very sorry if I caused you any trouble but please let me know if everything works ok after you watch the revised video. I will let you know when it is live. Should be about an hour. Cheers and thanks again!

Eagerly awaiting the new video. Thank you!

@@tuscarorawoodworks4713 Just released. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck!

Good morning Joseph. I get my Rowmark from CESCO here in Ontario. I can buy as small as 12 x 24" sheet size. I either have them cut it down for a fee or I just cut it down myself on the laser ( open the front door and run a cut line at 20" ). Hope that helps!

Good morning FB! I don't de-focus. but I have learned recently that sometimes a second "clean-up" pass can help. I released a video about a month ago called Quickshot "NEW" TriLayer Settings. In there, you will see I create a Multi Layer fill. (2 passes) - the second pass is at lower settings. Perhaps try adding that second "Clean-up" pass to yours. It cleared up the wood grain effect for me without having to use the Cross hatch. Give it a try and let me know if that helped. You may have to adjust your settings but perhaps start with mine and work from there. Let me know if it helped - good luck!

Great question - thanks for asking. No disrespect to the Rowmark folks but you do NOT want to leave the film on the Rowmark when you are engraving. You can leave it on if you are only cutting the Rowmark. But when you engrave, the film will melt while you are engraving and you will not be able to clean the melted film off it. I tried a few times, as I also watched those Rowmark videos too. Remove the film. Promise. :)) If you are not sure, take a scrap piece of the Rowmark and try. It's just my experience - let me know if it turns out different for you. Thanks and all the best FB!

@@LaserNUG I kinda thought it might do that but coming from the Manuf was just curious. But what you says makes more sense. So I'm just gonna remove esp since it seemed to clean up easily in your vids. Thanks

Hey thanks Dave! Yes, need to re-route the exhaust more permanently at some point. Hope you are doing great!

Where did the other video on the aurora lite go? I can't seem to find it.

@@easte4264 sorry I had to take it off to re-edit one part of it - it will be back up in the next day or two. Cheers!

Hey thanks Sharon! I am about 2 weeks in now and I am pretty impressed. Kind of compliments the BOLT as it engraves/marks metals. Thanks again - have a great week and thanks for your kind support!

:)) Perhaps.....LOL!

Good morning and thanks Sharon! Have a great week!

Hey thanks Pete!

Morning and thanks Fred! It turned out pretty good I think. Hope you and your family are well and had a nice Long Weekend!

Good morning and thanks Dave! Have a great Sunday!

Good morning Doug! Thanks for tuning in and all the support. Have a nice Sunday!