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What are your thoughts on using anti-seize thread lube on wheel studs and lug nuts? I usually clean and brush the threads and apply a thin coat of anti-seize on them. Your thoughts?

Excellent video. Thanks Don

"CDL" just means Commercial. Length, color, manufacture, and yes WEIGHT have nothing to do with that. Each state calls them something different, but SC calls them a Class E (Class E license is required to drive non-commercial "single unit" vehicles with a gross vehicle weight (GVW) more than 26,000 pounds.) or Class F (Class F license is required to drive non-commercial "combination" vehicles with a GVW more than 26,000 pounds.) I myself carry a class F license and have never had an issue towing heavy or blowing by weigh stations.

Folks, it’s really this simple. If the door sticker says GVW 26,001 lbs or more or it says GCVW 26,001 lbs or more you need a CDL unless it’s for personal use. If that vehicle has commercial insurance, is used to make money in any way, shape , or form, has a business logo or address on the door, even a phone number, or has commercial tags, or is owned by any business no matter if it’s owned by a trucking company or a hair salon, YOU NEED A CDL TO HAUL INTERSTATE. period.

Very helpful video. Thank you!

I have a nüCamp travel trailer with aluminum wheels. My owner's manual gives 110 ft./lbs. as the proper torque which is what I use (yes I did check that they were torqued to 110) but it seems way too high to me.

rewire they whole dang trailer, labor is always more expensive than parts

I'm so glad you made this video man!! Not long after I got my new Dura-Haul dumper, I noticed a squeak coming from the tail end when it was around mid-dump. After dumping, I checked the bed hinges in the rear,...YEP sure enough; Grease-Gun Gary Put Zero Grease in either of the hinges. OMG Yes sir you nailed it on the most overlooked zerks on a dump trailer; dadgum, even the factory overlooks them.

Who hasn’t exceeded 55 mph with a uhaul? I do 68 mph max with my tritoon and horse trailer. I rarely need a uhaul.

A little will do good and a lot will do a lot of good. Over achievers! 🤣 Right up there with silicone scientist.

l knew you would go in t for the lick!!

If your trailer can weigh over 10,001 lbs { loaded }, YOU NEED A CDL " A" to pull it, and make sure your whole rig is registered as a combination vehicle if your COMMERCIAL.

AMZN links are not connecting. Excellent content as usual.

Lock n lube changed my life on the end of an electric grease gun taking care of my heavy equipment. So often zerks are plugged or things are frozen and won’t take grease easily, having the power of a Milwaukee grease gun with a locking tip on it is a game changer. The lock n lube is a bit pricey but buy once cry once, a nice feature is the locking jaw is rebuildable and comes with a rebuild kit. If you grease lots you will wear out the jaws or break them.

Don't use grease gun to pump grease in, no matter how much you spin wheel. I've tried all methods and 100%, seal fails, grease goes in drums. Think about it, seal must contain pressure of pushing grease thru 2 bearings, which it can't do. Takes a lot of pressure to push thru 2 bearings. Dexter gets to sell a lot of repair parts!

No nuts required on the underside of the floor screws ? I understand that they're self threading into the steel , but wouldn't it be likely that corrosion would eventually eat away at the weak thread that the screw cut into the steel ?

FEDS overrule any state laws

Can you please do more in-depth video on how the brakes actually work from Seven pin to break drums And more about a hub failure thanks

I have a Lock-n-lube coupler too and completely agree it's a must-have product for a grease gun. I didn't know about the swivel that would be so great, I've already added it to my cart! LOL

Thanks for the video. I know what I will be doing today!!

If you have a tandem trl camper do you recommend rotating the tires ??? and ifso what pattern do you recommend thanks

Thank you for the very informative video. I am getting ready to replace the original front bearings in my 1963 John Deere I bought a few years ago. I figured if I am taking it apart to repack why not just pack new bearings. I ordered my parts from a local john deere dealer and got them in three days. All good until I got home and inspected a little closer. They were stamped China. I really do not like Chinese parts. I had to shop around but a local speed shop found American made equivalent. John Deere pricing makes everything appear as if it was made out of gold so the American bearing came in at a slightly lower cost. I will return my China bearings tomorrow and get my money back. When I get my rims back from the powder coater I will complete my project. What are your thoughts on grease? Should I use that red sticky stuff I see others using or will regular bearing grease be OK?

If your ground wire is very short, it’s OK to extend it with another piece of wire equal in gauge, right?

I’m not six wire plug with the blue wire for the brakes the trailer brakes and you show us that you can use it without using that blue one you know would you pull that wire and that pin out if you’re not gonna use it?

Pennsylvania will allow you to derate the trailer but the police go off of the gvr from the manufacture. They don’t care how you license it. If gvr from manufacturer says you are over then you are over. The officer told me that by using that logic you could license nearly anything however you wanted and people will abuse it. So they look at gvr from manufacturer.

Just show them the flow chart that's in every commercial driving study book at the DMV in your state. I always show it to people when discussing this, it simplifies the conversation greatly and explains how its all about the combined gvwr of both units. (CGVWR) and any trailer over 9,999 gvwr or longer than 16 feet needs a class A. ( commercial or rec. class A )

What if I run a farm tag. And haul your personal stuff. F 450

Thanks. Great video.

Cdl here is 26,001 combined or if trailer is over 10,001 lbs alone gvwr you need a cdl. Yall ppl just need to get a cdl I guess and problem solved!!!! Also apart from cdls that ain’t going to make you a good f driver. There’s lots of crazy drivers wt cdl wrecking and give no damm.

seems really odd that folks can haul a huge 5th wheel camper behind a 1 ton and don't need one

Screw the driving school, they are about worthless. The best people that excelled with my team, is farmers or people that did work on a farm. They were not dum dums, and could actually back up a trailer. Schools are all about compliance, which is absolutely crazy.

This is the 1st video I've ever seen on how to do this. I've learned a lot. Thanks for the info and a great video.

At what temp should you use for max air pressure. At 70 degrees you my be at 80.psi but at 50 degrees it may be 72 psi.

Well, I'm a cheap so & so. I have several trailers. One has just cone bearings. One has bearing buddies, and one has EZLube. The small trailer doesn't get a lot of highway travel, so every two years it gets pulled apart and checked (no brakes). My travel trailer has bearing buddies (again, we don't run 12K miles) it gets torn down every two years and topped up the years in between with the bearing buddy (I use extreme pressure marine grease only). My vehicle hauler has easy lube. I ALWAYS take the cup off (so that I don't waste grease filling it). I pump until grease is blue, with no black evident. Every 2nd year, that gets torn apart and inspected. Unless, of course, I suspect brake issues on either. This is my schedule. We bought the travel trailer used, and I thought people did proper (at least minimal) maintenance. It was a 4 hr drive home. We cleaned the trailer and checked the stove, furnace, A/C, and power. Loaded up and took off. Got 3 hours down the road and a guy was waving to my wife. Frantically. He told us a wheel was smoking. We eventually got pulled over a couple of lanes and stopped. Outer bearing had failed and the heat had popped a small piece out of the hub where the seal went. Limped into the next town, found a bearing kit and some extra tools. Changed the bearings on a side road. When we got home, replaced hub and installed new bearings. Then, tore down the other 3 and replaced all the bearings.

Good info , concise

I tell yall One thing ol boy knows his shit bout trailer!!! Got my sub

Why the description box so dark I can't even read it or the links.

Good advice peace of mind 👍

de-rating the trailer is the way to go!! Most trailers today cannot handle the load they are rated for so you end up with cracked welds, tire blowouts, bearing issues... If you de-rate, you take the hit in how much you can carry but your trailer will always be ready to go...

Lots of good safety tips. Thanks!

What options are there for metering the mileage on a single axle travel trailer other than just taking notes?

I’ve enjoyed your videos very helpful. I’ve worked in a collision shop for over 42 years and we used to measure our frames the exact same way I would suggest putting rows of 2 inch tape on the floor depending on how often you do that you could end up with a Lot of marks on the floor I would love to see a video on how to diagnose the electric brakes, correct any possible problems? I have a 25 foot enclosed car trailer with tandem axles and electric brakes and over the years they just seem have gotten soft. I tried moving gain making physical break adjustments didn’t seem to be the problem Thanks and have a great day

Nebraska, GVWR of 10K requires commercial or type endorsement. Next is the GCVR of the combination.

I noticed you didn't upgrade the equalizer. Do you feel that they make a difference?

Good video. That’s a nice method to fit the last plank in the center. I use a nice heavy wood post to clobber wood down vs stomping and pounding with my joints. I use sledge hammers of various weights and scrap wood block to budge wood sideways. Weight plus gentle speed = inertia that overcomes stiction.

Heat kills tires. All tires deflect (round to flat) when they come into contact with the road. How much they deflect is variable based on load and inflation (psi). The more deflection the greater the heat (because parts that were straight are bending). Now multiply that deflection by speed... this is why tires also have speed ratings... if you're driving 75mph max gross with max psi, on a tire only rated for 60mph, you shouldn't be surprised you had an issue. I'm towing a 3.2klb car on a 10.4k tandem axle trailer that weighs approx 1.2k. No issues not running max 80psi, except I'm not locking up and flatspotting my tires as often. But believe you me, last time I had an 8k excavator on that trailer- tires were at 80psi. Know your load, know your equipment, drive safe.

Would you pack me full of grease? Id pack me, HARD. *Overgrease ALL DAY BABY.

Do you always replace the grease seal when you hand pack the bearings?

I have a cdl but in Ga it says nothing about trailer being 10001 pds or more, my personal trailer a 33ft single wheel big Tex rated at 15900, pull with a ram 2500 gvwr 10000, that’s under 26k pds with a carrying capacity a little over 10000 in ballast, I thought only California had that stupid law of trailer being over 10001pds, about every camper weighs over 10001 pds