I can't believe how clean the shop is; it helps us all concentrate. The content is excellent, and thanks for all you do. You have the perfect presence to get the message across. Nothing easy about repacking bearings for the older folks.
thanks for doing all these vids.youve helped me immensley as i rebuild my first heavy duty trailer from an old 5th wheel camper.ive saved SOOO much money on delivery fees now since i got this trailer going.keep up the awesome work sir.
Excellent Video and explanation. Straightforward and to the point. I also agree that time spent in the shop doing the maintenance, avoids unplanned time spent on the side of the road, because you didn't. New Sub here, Thank you
Great Video! Thank You. Paint Thinner in a clear plastic bottle is my bearing cleaner. Holding the bearing in hand and shaking it around in the thinner a few time works well AND the thinner evaporates fast enough. I'm old and from Wisconsin; now I'll be thinking of cheese while repacking!! Thanx
“Texas aged cheese”. Great description. I always try and give it my best shot when doing it myself usually at a campground. Doing it in the shop environment would be the best. Thanks for the great explanation
Thank you. New subscriber...i have an antique 7 foot utility trailer no brakes. As soon as i got it home i pulled the hubs. I took the parts to the local trailer parts store. The owner came out to see what i had. He's in his 70s. I was asking specifically about the seals. There were no neoprene seals. He held up one of the two fancy precision machined washers and said... don't lose these. These are the seals. You lose one of these and you'll have to buy a new axle. Needless to say, these bearings get hand packed every year.
Thanks for watching! We did notice that I failed to mention that in this particular video. We did leave a link to the type of grease down in the description.
Grease packing tip: using the handi packer, put the outer bearing on top of the inner bearing in the packer. Put the cone on top and place the packer in a drill press without a bit. Pull down on the drill press lever pulling the chuck down onto the packer cone and it will push the grease thru both bearings effortlessly. A press works great too.
@ 17:44, Many years ago, we had a service representative from Timkin in our shop to supervise the installation of high precision bearing. The only lube the bearing received was the grease used when installation took place. We were going to use the method you did and were instructed to only wipe grease on the rollers. Packing like you did and what we all thought was correct was wrong, according to the Timkin man. Too much grease creates heat because of the friction from so much of it. Two cup single cone tapered roller bearing around ten inches OD. Table bearing for a vertical boring mill with a twelve foot table. I still pack them like you do.
What are your thoughts on using anti-seize thread lube on wheel studs and lug nuts? I usually clean and brush the threads and apply a thin coat of anti-seize on them. Your thoughts?
I just did this 1 week ago and I have done it multiple times over my lifetime. Recently read that you can over pack it and cause shurning which causes over heating. Does anyone have more information on how much grease is good without going over?
first thanks for the informative videos on trailer axles.. you re enforce many things i have learned over the years of working on my own stuff.. :) As for the repacking bearing every 12K miles or yearly I am in the not so sure camp.. Case in point.. In june of 22 i replace dexter torsion axles on 2005 airstream. The hubs, while worn from use were in good shape overall as were the bearing and races.. the PO had the bearing repacked every year when they got back from summer volenteer in Acadia NP coming from tampa florida. I repacked every two year as we were doing less then 1000 a year for the most part before replacing them... Now that we are full time Rv'er we do 10K a year and other then need to remove hubs to tighten backing plate while in alaska last summer they have not been touched and my hub temps are cool to the touch after couple hundred miles of running a 8500 lb trailer. If you use your trailer on the regular and use good quality synthetic grease, I do the hand method of packing and fill the cavity with extra grease they can go many miles with not a problem. I think it the sitting for long periods that do the damage especially if you use them in fall with humidity issues.
YOUR VIDEOS ARE AWESOME..... I am working on my car trailer and you have been a wealth of knowledge!! Thank you so much for putting out such excellent content. I have a question!! I have a double axle car trailer. I am wondering when should a person put brakes on BOTH axles versus putting brakes on only ONE axle? If only ONE axle, which axle front or back?
Is there an issue with catching grease on the rear seal from the spindle as you install the drum? Could that present issues with the brakes or catching dust?
I thought the same thing when I seen that blob on axle before installing the hub. The extra grease would be pushed into the backing plate and eventually all over the lining. I don't get why the extra grease in hub and on axle? Does nothing and waste material. The grease packed into bearings is all you need or lets just say, it's all the bearing will ever use. Great series of videos though!
Great instructional video. Wish it came out a week sooner. I just did one side of my 5th wheel bearing repack. I didn’t put any grease inside the cavity as I saw on your video how you did add it in the cavity. Will I be ok to go as is or should slide the hub off and add the grease? Will definitely be putting it on the other side. Thank you for making these videos 👍.
I repacked the bearings on my rv, and before each trip I hit the EZ lube fitting with about 5 pumps of grease, after about the 3rd time doing this, when I arrived at the campsite, I had grease on my rim. Did this grease come out of the the dust cap, or out of the rear seal? Are my brakes compromised if this happened? Thanks
Just a suggestion, I would have given the EZ lube grease zert a pump or two of grease before installing you're drum. The holes were the grease comes out catch dirt or brake dust when you take the drum off. Then if you use your EZ lube you pump it in to your bearings. Great videos. Great info.
Great but was disappointed you didn’t use a used axle. I was interested in seeing how you determined if the bearings were in good or poor condition Thx
Good point! We did a separate video to show that. You can click in the link if you would like to watch. Thanks for watching the channel! ua-cam.com/video/T1-8GBgimuU/v-deo.htmlsi=Xy2DBtaCVCiCSU48
23:56 that is a sure way to be certain but, when you are on the side of the interstate or major highway... it's no longer fun. Especially when you are in the middle of nowhere. Great tips!
Sanding cast iron brake drums really surprises me. Won’t every uncoated cast iron part rust? Where I live it can happen in a few days! After a bit of use, that rust will be gone. What am I missing ?
Thank you for doing these videos they are really appreciated., You took me past my comfort zone and now I completed the maintenance with your instructions. what brand or type of grease do you use? Thanks for your efforts.
You continue to give us great info. I'd like to see a video on the breakdown/weakening of grease...how grease looks/feels as time and wear/tear does on it. I have an RV and travel a few thousand miles a year, so how much does grease really break down over the 12 months with just a few thousand miles on it. Thanks again for the information.
You use a lot more grease than what comes from the factory OR what I have been applying. I just finished repacking AND NOW I may be using the EZ Lube fitting for a few extra pumps. Using the EZ Lube will be a first for me.
I prefer to spin the hub while seating bearings, but that's just me. I prefer to adjust my bearings to zero lash or just barely loose. I also hate EZ Lube axles simply because folks tend to overdo it and blow out the seal ruining the brake shoes and magnets, not to mention the mess it makes in the hub.
We try to use chlorinated when we can buy it. We are actually working on a video that explains the difference between the 2 and the appropriate times for using both. Great minds! 😉😉
I love your videos. I’m also a prefer not to worry about it type. But- I’m also a science guy. Just saying “that’s the way I do it” doesn’t cut it. There must be some science out there that can answer the question of what the appropriate interval is to repack wheel bearings. I just did this job on one of my trailers. Last time it was done was about 20 years ago. Bearings looked fine. Not saying 20 years is appropriate. Just asking what science is available on the subject?
It's not necessarily just a "that's the way I do it". Repacking your bearings every 12,000 miles or every 12 months, whichever happens first is the industry standard for proper bearing maintenance. This has been the standard for some time and it comes from the manufacturers who design and engineer the bearings, hubs, and trailers, as well as from professional mechanics who work on them day in and day out. I'm sure you can find some literature or study or science or something on the subject if you dig hard enough. But industry engineers and professionals say so. As a professional mechanic, that's been my experience, as well. Ultimately, each person is free to make the choice that suits them best. We can only tell you what the best practice is. As I said in the video, if you use your trailer on a rare occasion, you can stretch that interval out.
Funny you should say that, that was the exact same take away from this video I had. The hub was already filled or partly filled with grease or so it appeared ( and should be ) but to put that much grease on the spindle is going to risk some of it to be pushed by the back bearing/seal and squish out into the backing plate area and then drop down onto the inside surface of the lower brake shoe, could some of that end up on the drum to brake shoe surface after braking causing the grease to heat up, most definitely. What I like to do is make sure the seal itself has grease on it but as well in between the seal lip and the back side of the inner bearing in that dead space so that there is grease right there at the seal to lubricate it as it begins a new life but not to allow grease to be pushed back into the brake housing. I know what he did was well intended but was a little shocked at that being done. Had he pulled the drum right back off we would have more than likely seen the results of grease pushed back where it shouldn't be. The same would happen if one pumped/forced grease from the outer bearing into the hub such as a bearing buddy or similar as it would push past that seal into the brake area. If this had been an axle that had no brakes ( like a lot of farm implements ) and in fact for years now a lot of farm implements with a basic spindle but no braking system has a grease fitting on the hub to fill the hub with grease and it pushes out excess grease from the seal and the grease isn't harming anything on a hub system like that.
@@davidwarren330 I suggest you watch it again and think about where that grease starting at the 20:23 time line will end up. While the seal itself has a larger inner diameter that it sits on to seal, the inner bearing sits on a shoulder that is just slightly larger in diameter than the main spindle diameter. Its going to be mostly that inner bearing that will push most of that grease to the inner area of the spindle where the seal rides and beyond and now that excess grease has no where to go but fall off onto the back side of the brake shoe. Conversely if lets say there was any excess grease inside the hub, it will just get pushed by the spindle to come out the outer bearing and is not a concern. I can guarantee there is grease to the back side of the spindle where it was not intended to be, had he pulled the hub/drum back off. Recreate what was done there sometime when repacking a wheel bearing and you will see what happens when a pile of grease is smeared onto the spindle.
You need to adjust bearings more precisely they should not take any preload they should have one to .002 end play after adjustment you will never burn up a bearing that has some free play in it it will burn up with no free play quickly best to use the correct size socket tighten up one or two times to remove the grease and make sure the bearings are seated back it off completely and just turn it up with your fingers to it just touches that should put you right in the ballpark where it needs to be
Never pack full, put a needle greaser on and 3 or 4 spots. Turn then good. Put bearing in and put some in cap when heats up it drags grease in. Pack bearing too full premature failure will happen when rollers cant roll will develope flat spots.
You spoke of things that are toxic and I have to say that brake cleaner, and any other volatile chemical like that is very toxic to you. You should not be breathing that chemical, nor getting it on your skin. Repeated exposure for someone like you that probably uses that all the time is pretty bad. NO chemical that evaporates rapidly is good for you. Read the SDS. I learned this the hard way.
Copied from - @richardmulholland7261 - Excellent Video and explanation. Straightforward and to the point. I also agree that time spent in the shop doing the maintenance, avoids unplanned time spent on the side of the road, because you didn't. New Sub here, Thank you
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #30 ДВА В ОДНОМ [Один человек]• Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nrXy15orKhY/mqdefault.jpg)
I was taught how to pack bearings in High School shop class in the 70's. LOL Nothing has changed. Old School. Great video - thanks.
I was a mechanic in the 70’s and I learned more today on your videos than I did in 10 years.
I can't believe how clean the shop is; it helps us all concentrate. The content is excellent, and thanks for all you do. You have the perfect presence to get the message across. Nothing easy about repacking bearings for the older folks.
Us?
😂
Just purchased a used utility trailer for my first one and this video perfectly helped me out. Thanks for making great informational content.
thanks for doing all these vids.youve helped me immensley as i rebuild my first heavy duty trailer from an old 5th wheel camper.ive saved SOOO much money on delivery fees now since i got this trailer going.keep up the awesome work sir.
Gettin ready to service my 5er after 3k miles and coming up on 12 months. Great channel to remind us all how to geter done.
Great information. A few hours a day, will save a lot of time down the road. Thanks Don
Excellent Video and explanation. Straightforward and to the point. I also agree that time spent in the shop doing the maintenance, avoids unplanned time spent on the side of the road, because you didn't. New Sub here, Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Peace of mind is priceless! Thanks for watching.
Every time I watch one of your videos, I learn a new trick, RTV on the inner seal is a really good idea Thanks for another great video.
Great Video! Thank You. Paint Thinner in a clear plastic bottle is my bearing cleaner. Holding the bearing in hand and shaking it around in the thinner a few time works well AND the thinner evaporates fast enough. I'm old and from Wisconsin; now I'll be thinking of cheese while repacking!! Thanx
“Texas aged cheese”. Great description. I always try and give it my best shot when doing it myself usually at a campground. Doing it in the shop environment would be the best. Thanks for the great explanation
Thank you. New subscriber...i have an antique 7 foot utility trailer no brakes. As soon as i got it home i pulled the hubs. I took the parts to the local trailer parts store. The owner came out to see what i had. He's in his 70s. I was asking specifically about the seals. There were no neoprene seals. He held up one of the two fancy precision machined washers and said... don't lose these. These are the seals. You lose one of these and you'll have to buy a new axle. Needless to say, these bearings get hand packed every year.
Thank you very much, for your time I'm from New jersey
Thank You for sharing your knowledge with us.
Nice job. I’m reviving a 1987 trailer. One of my viewers suggested your channel to me.
Great Video. You might mention what type of grease to use.
Thanks for watching! We did notice that I failed to mention that in this particular video. We did leave a link to the type of grease down in the description.
Grease packing tip: using the handi packer, put the outer bearing on top of the inner bearing in the packer. Put the cone on top and place the packer in a drill press without a bit. Pull down on the drill press lever pulling the chuck down onto the packer cone and it will push the grease thru both bearings effortlessly. A press works great too.
Great Video brother. Where is your Shop's Location?
I am curious, when you placed a wad of grease on the spindle, did you not press that excess out of the back of the hub?
@ 17:44, Many years ago, we had a service representative from Timkin in our shop to supervise the installation of high precision bearing. The only lube the bearing received was the grease used when installation took place. We were going to use the method you did and were instructed to only wipe grease on the rollers. Packing like you did and what we all thought was correct was wrong, according to the Timkin man. Too much grease creates heat because of the friction from so much of it. Two cup single cone tapered roller bearing around ten inches OD. Table bearing for a vertical boring mill with a twelve foot table. I still pack them like you do.
What are your thoughts on using anti-seize thread lube on wheel studs and lug nuts? I usually clean and brush the threads and apply a thin coat of anti-seize on them. Your thoughts?
Thoughts on adding the rubber cups over the entire dust cap for added sealing measures?
I just did this 1 week ago and I have done it multiple times over my lifetime. Recently read that you can over pack it and cause shurning which causes over heating. Does anyone have more information on how much grease is good without going over?
first thanks for the informative videos on trailer axles.. you re enforce many things i have learned over the years of working on my own stuff.. :) As for the repacking bearing every 12K miles or yearly I am in the not so sure camp..
Case in point.. In june of 22 i replace dexter torsion axles on 2005 airstream. The hubs, while worn from use were in good shape overall as were the bearing and races.. the PO had the bearing repacked every year when they got back from summer volenteer in Acadia NP coming from tampa florida. I repacked every two year as we were doing less then 1000 a year for the most part before replacing them...
Now that we are full time Rv'er we do 10K a year and other then need to remove hubs to tighten backing plate while in alaska last summer they have not been touched and my hub temps are cool to the touch after couple hundred miles of running a 8500 lb trailer. If you use your trailer on the regular and use good quality synthetic grease, I do the hand method of packing and fill the cavity with extra grease they can go many miles with not a problem. I think it the sitting for long periods that do the damage especially if you use them in fall with humidity issues.
YOUR VIDEOS ARE AWESOME..... I am working on my car trailer and you have been a wealth of knowledge!! Thank you so much for putting out such excellent content.
I have a question!!
I have a double axle car trailer. I am wondering when should a person put brakes on BOTH axles versus putting brakes on only ONE axle? If only ONE axle, which axle front or back?
Thank you!!! How do you know if the bearings need replaced?
Stay tuned! That’s the topic of the next video. Great question!
Good video. Keep them coming
Is there an issue with catching grease on the rear seal from the spindle as you install the drum? Could that present issues with the brakes or catching dust?
I thought the same thing when I seen that blob on axle before installing the hub. The extra grease would be pushed into the backing plate and eventually all over the lining. I don't get why the extra grease in hub and on axle? Does nothing and waste material. The grease packed into bearings is all you need or lets just say, it's all the bearing will ever use. Great series of videos though!
What is the grease type you're using? Does it need to high temp? Great video!
Good advice peace of mind 👍
Do you always replace the grease seal when you hand pack the bearings?
Very helpful, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great instructional video. Wish it came out a week sooner. I just did one side of my 5th wheel bearing repack. I didn’t put any grease inside the cavity as I saw on your video how you did add it in the cavity. Will I be ok to go as is or should slide the hub off and add the grease? Will definitely be putting it on the other side. Thank you for making these videos 👍.
I repacked the bearings on my rv, and before each trip I hit the EZ lube fitting with about 5 pumps of grease, after about the 3rd time doing this, when I arrived at the campsite, I had grease on my rim. Did this grease come out of the the dust cap, or out of the rear seal? Are my brakes compromised if this happened? Thanks
Great video! I build trailers, great information, thank you!
Good information in this video 👍
Thanks!
Just a suggestion, I would have given the EZ lube grease zert a pump or two of grease before installing you're drum. The holes were the grease comes out catch dirt or brake dust when you take the drum off. Then if you use your EZ lube you pump it in to your bearings. Great videos. Great info.
0:06 was told years ago, that grease between bears on spindle served no purpose “except “ to hold/trap heat that added to failure.
Great but was disappointed you didn’t use a used axle. I was interested in seeing how you determined if the bearings were in good or poor condition Thx
Good point! We did a separate video to show that. You can click in the link if you would like to watch. Thanks for watching the channel! ua-cam.com/video/T1-8GBgimuU/v-deo.htmlsi=Xy2DBtaCVCiCSU48
23:56 that is a sure way to be certain but, when you are on the side of the interstate or major highway... it's no longer fun. Especially when you are in the middle of nowhere.
Great tips!
Sanding cast iron brake drums really surprises me. Won’t every uncoated cast iron part rust? Where I live it can happen in a few days!
After a bit of use, that rust will be gone. What am I missing ?
The bearings and races are mated. What about the spindle? I bought 2 new tires in May and I don't know if they went on the same spindle.
Thank you for doing these videos they are really appreciated., You took me past my comfort zone and now I completed the maintenance with your instructions. what brand or type of grease do you use? Thanks for your efforts.
There's a link in the video description
Yeah, sometimes I feel like I am aging in the Texas heat like fine cheese for years. LOL!
You continue to give us great info. I'd like to see a video on the breakdown/weakening of grease...how grease looks/feels as time and wear/tear does on it. I have an RV and travel a few thousand miles a year, so how much does grease really break down over the 12 months with just a few thousand miles on it. Thanks again for the information.
You use a lot more grease than what comes from the factory OR what I have been applying. I just finished repacking AND NOW I may be using the EZ Lube fitting for a few extra pumps. Using the EZ Lube will be a first for me.
Please explain what was grinding when you put the hub back on.
I prefer to spin the hub while seating bearings, but that's just me. I prefer to adjust my bearings to zero lash or just barely loose. I also hate EZ Lube axles simply because folks tend to overdo it and blow out the seal ruining the brake shoes and magnets, not to mention the mess it makes in the hub.
Excellent video.
I see that there is chlorinated and non-chlorinated brake cleaner available, which do you use?
We try to use chlorinated when we can buy it. We are actually working on a video that explains the difference between the 2 and the appropriate times for using both.
Great minds! 😉😉
You ard awesome. I lesrn so much from your videos. Thanks again. Keep them coming.
Love it! I just found your channel.
At what temp should you use for max air pressure. At 70 degrees you my be at 80.psi but at 50 degrees it may be 72 psi.
I love your videos. I’m also a prefer not to worry about it type. But- I’m also a science guy. Just saying “that’s the way I do it” doesn’t cut it. There must be some science out there that can answer the question of what the appropriate interval is to repack wheel bearings. I just did this job on one of my trailers. Last time it was done was about 20 years ago. Bearings looked fine. Not saying 20 years is appropriate. Just asking what science is available on the subject?
It's not necessarily just a "that's the way I do it". Repacking your bearings every 12,000 miles or every 12 months, whichever happens first is the industry standard for proper bearing maintenance. This has been the standard for some time and it comes from the manufacturers who design and engineer the bearings, hubs, and trailers, as well as from professional mechanics who work on them day in and day out. I'm sure you can find some literature or study or science or something on the subject if you dig hard enough. But industry engineers and professionals say so. As a professional mechanic, that's been my experience, as well. Ultimately, each person is free to make the choice that suits them best. We can only tell you what the best practice is. As I said in the video, if you use your trailer on a rare occasion, you can stretch that interval out.
Great video, thanks
Great video
Why not use a seal driver?
did anyone else think he put too much grease on the spindle before installing the hub? Isn't that going to push out the back side as you seat it?
Funny you should say that, that was the exact same take away from this video I had. The hub was already filled or partly filled with grease or so it appeared ( and should be ) but to put that much grease on the spindle is going to risk some of it to be pushed by the back bearing/seal and squish out into the backing plate area and then drop down onto the inside surface of the lower brake shoe, could some of that end up on the drum to brake shoe surface after braking causing the grease to heat up, most definitely. What I like to do is make sure the seal itself has grease on it but as well in between the seal lip and the back side of the inner bearing in that dead space so that there is grease right there at the seal to lubricate it as it begins a new life but not to allow grease to be pushed back into the brake housing. I know what he did was well intended but was a little shocked at that being done. Had he pulled the drum right back off we would have more than likely seen the results of grease pushed back where it shouldn't be. The same would happen if one pumped/forced grease from the outer bearing into the hub such as a bearing buddy or similar as it would push past that seal into the brake area. If this had been an axle that had no brakes ( like a lot of farm implements ) and in fact for years now a lot of farm implements with a basic spindle but no braking system has a grease fitting on the hub to fill the hub with grease and it pushes out excess grease from the seal and the grease isn't harming anything on a hub system like that.
Yes to much over greased!
No he did not it was enough to fill the inside of the hub
@@davidwarren330 I suggest you watch it again and think about where that grease starting at the 20:23 time line will end up. While the seal itself has a larger inner diameter that it sits on to seal, the inner bearing sits on a shoulder that is just slightly larger in diameter than the main spindle diameter. Its going to be mostly that inner bearing that will push most of that grease to the inner area of the spindle where the seal rides and beyond and now that excess grease has no where to go but fall off onto the back side of the brake shoe. Conversely if lets say there was any excess grease inside the hub, it will just get pushed by the spindle to come out the outer bearing and is not a concern. I can guarantee there is grease to the back side of the spindle where it was not intended to be, had he pulled the hub/drum back off. Recreate what was done there sometime when repacking a wheel bearing and you will see what happens when a pile of grease is smeared onto the spindle.
Fantastic work, again... This guy and i would be fast friends 👍 ~
Red grease is the hi heat ….this is the right grease for bearings?
Diesel mixed with gas works excellent, no smoking!
You should say what brand of bearing and race that is
Why the description box so dark I can't even read it or the links.
What is the black sealant called you use on the dust cap?
RTV
@@RB66_ Thank you
Great video but you only needed grease packed in the bearings. Placing more inside the hub and on the shaft is a waste, bearing will never use it.
Thank you! Proper!!
Why not use a wire brush on a drill on the drum
You need to adjust bearings more precisely they should not take any preload they should have one to .002 end play after adjustment you will never burn up a bearing that has some free play in it it will burn up with no free play quickly best to use the correct size socket tighten up one or two times to remove the grease and make sure the bearings are seated back it off completely and just turn it up with your fingers to it just touches that should put you right in the ballpark where it needs to be
I repack my rv once a year regardless of the mileage.
Never pack full, put a needle greaser on and 3 or 4 spots. Turn then good. Put bearing in and put some in cap when heats up it drags grease in. Pack bearing too full premature failure will happen when rollers cant roll will develope flat spots.
You forgot to lube the seal.
Too much grease in that!
You spoke of things that are toxic and I have to say that brake cleaner, and any other volatile chemical like that is very toxic to you. You should not be breathing that chemical, nor getting it on your skin. Repeated exposure for someone like you that probably uses that all the time is pretty bad. NO chemical that evaporates rapidly is good for you. Read the SDS. I learned this the hard way.
Copied from -
@richardmulholland7261 - Excellent Video and explanation. Straightforward and to the point. I also agree that time spent in the shop doing the maintenance, avoids unplanned time spent on the side of the road, because you didn't. New Sub here, Thank you