You are so right. You really get what you pay for. In my opinion, go with a thick skin because oil canning looks cheap, one piece roof, go 16 on center floors and walls and look for quality axles like Dexter. I ran an all steel Wells Cargo commercially for years trouble free. Great channel! 👍
Nice overview on steel-frame trailers. Coming from the horse world, there are several high-end trailers that are all-aluminum. It would be great to get your take on the all-aluminum trailer world, too.
Thanks - super informative content! I actually found the ‘double-square’ 8 point bit on Amazon too. I’ve got aluminum skin on steel frame and converted it to a camper. Be careful insulating since the frame members will become a thermal bridge through the walls. Best I saw is insulate the roof/walls, then add horizontal wood strips and insulate again. Keeps everything nice and toasty without cold spots 😊
When removing stripped screws I use a car trim plastic removal tool. And far as the raw plywood floor underneath the trailer I’ve sprayed mine down with a diesel and kerosene mixture using two coats and it repels water. Good info for those looking to buy a box trailer and one more tip always look underneath at the welds. I’ve seen some welds on new trailers that looked like a two old had done!
What is the thickness of the steel skin on the all steel trailer? I'm in the process of rebuilding an Xtra Tuff Trailer (I laugh at the name now). The problem wasn't the skin material, it's how lightweight everything else was built. The main frame rails were 4X2X14ga when it should have probably been 11ga. The floor supports were 14ga sheet metal bent into a channel shape. The wall studs were Z-shaped 16ga sheet metal on 2 foot centers. Roof supports were U-shaped 16ga sheet metal. The support for the walls was cantilevered out from the main frame rails with some of this thin sheet metal. I had to reinforce the main frame rails, build new walls using 2X1 tubing, used 3X2 angle for the floor supports, and 2X1 tubing for the roof support. I think I added about 600 lbs of steel to the frame compared to the original frame construction. I had hoped to re-use most of the aluminum skin, but two pieces were badly damaged from where the wall broke loose from the main frame. The two sheets of prepainted aluminum were going to be about $300 . I decided to re-skin the entire trailer, including roof with 26ga coil stock for PBR metal roofing (about 43" wide). It was $300 for all the skin and roof material I needed for the 14 foot enclosed trailer, including having them bend two pieces for the rear corners of the trailer.
I ordered a brand I was familiar with and I suspect they had started to cheapen their quality to be competitive. I selected there high end construction model. Some of the key things I added were 040 skin, extra floor supports, and 6" extra height. I purchased this before covid was even heard of and it still took several months. I purchased it to move and consolidate because I was planning my retirement. I also used it to move my John Deere 4x4 mower or compact tractor. Now I would like to sell it and no one wants to recognize the value of the upgrades. I guess it's my loss.
My old box trailer had double square screws. Some today have triple square. I got them off the tool truck, but they can be found elsewhere. I didn't have much luck with the square drive. YMMV
Yes, triple square or XZN, most automotive tool suppliers stock them. If you’ve worked on a Volkswagen, BMW or Mercedes in the past decade or two it’s what they’ve gone to along with E-Torx. #2 Robertson works in a pinch, but you will mess them up if you really tighten them or there’s rust in it, consider it a one time use.
BE CAREFUL WHEN BYING FROM TRAILERSPLUS. THEY ADVERTISE A BETTER TRAILER BUT ONLY WHAT CAN BE SEEN FROM A WALK AROUND. THEY ADVERTISE A ONE PIECE ROOF, TILL YOU GET A LADDER AND SEE A THREE PIECE ROOF, THAT LEAKS. THERE SO CALLED SEALED FLOOR, ONLY MEETS THE INTERIOR PLYWOOD. IN THE NOSE ESPECIALLY YOU CAN LOOK FROM UNDERNEITH AND SEE 2 INCH GAPS BETWEEN FLOOR AND OUTER WALL
You are so right. You really get what you pay for. In my opinion, go with a thick skin because oil canning looks cheap, one piece roof, go 16 on center floors and walls and look for quality axles like Dexter. I ran an all steel Wells Cargo commercially for years trouble free. Great channel! 👍
I agree! Thanks for watching!
We just finished rebuilding our 6 year old Spartan 7x14 enclosed trailer. Definitely some lessons learned in what to look for in our next trailer.
I absolutely hate working on some of these cheaper ones that people use for commercial purposes! I’m glad you are addressing these issues!thanks
Thanks for watching!
Nice overview on steel-frame trailers. Coming from the horse world, there are several high-end trailers that are all-aluminum. It would be great to get your take on the all-aluminum trailer world, too.
Thanks - super informative content! I actually found the ‘double-square’ 8 point bit on Amazon too. I’ve got aluminum skin on steel frame and converted it to a camper. Be careful insulating since the frame members will become a thermal bridge through the walls. Best I saw is insulate the roof/walls, then add horizontal wood strips and insulate again. Keeps everything nice and toasty without cold spots 😊
When removing stripped screws I use a car trim plastic removal tool. And far as the raw plywood floor underneath the trailer I’ve sprayed mine down with a diesel and kerosene mixture using two coats and it repels water. Good info for those looking to buy a box trailer and one more tip always look underneath at the welds. I’ve seen some welds on new trailers that looked like a two old had done!
You just came up a few notches in my book; thanks for the much-needed info. Excellent content.
What is the thickness of the steel skin on the all steel trailer? I'm in the process of rebuilding an Xtra Tuff Trailer (I laugh at the name now). The problem wasn't the skin material, it's how lightweight everything else was built. The main frame rails were 4X2X14ga when it should have probably been 11ga. The floor supports were 14ga sheet metal bent into a channel shape. The wall studs were Z-shaped 16ga sheet metal on 2 foot centers. Roof supports were U-shaped 16ga sheet metal. The support for the walls was cantilevered out from the main frame rails with some of this thin sheet metal. I had to reinforce the main frame rails, build new walls using 2X1 tubing, used 3X2 angle for the floor supports, and 2X1 tubing for the roof support. I think I added about 600 lbs of steel to the frame compared to the original frame construction. I had hoped to re-use most of the aluminum skin, but two pieces were badly damaged from where the wall broke loose from the main frame. The two sheets of prepainted aluminum were going to be about $300 . I decided to re-skin the entire trailer, including roof with 26ga coil stock for PBR metal roofing (about 43" wide). It was $300 for all the skin and roof material I needed for the 14 foot enclosed trailer, including having them bend two pieces for the rear corners of the trailer.
I ordered a brand I was familiar with and I suspect they had started to cheapen their quality to be competitive. I selected there high end construction model. Some of the key things I added were 040 skin, extra floor supports, and 6" extra height. I purchased this before covid was even heard of and it still took several months. I purchased it to move and consolidate because I was planning my retirement. I also used it to move my John Deere 4x4 mower or compact tractor. Now I would like to sell it and no one wants to recognize the value of the upgrades. I guess it's my loss.
My old box trailer had double square screws. Some today have triple square. I got them off the tool truck, but they can be found elsewhere. I didn't have much luck with the square drive. YMMV
Some good sauce. Thank you sir
Any time. Thanks for watching!
During a reskin, how do you punch the or mark the screw holes location so the spacing is even?
Those screws are triple square or inverted 12 point.
Yes, triple square or XZN, most automotive tool suppliers stock them.
If you’ve worked on a Volkswagen, BMW or Mercedes in the past decade or two it’s what they’ve gone to along with E-Torx. #2 Robertson works in a pinch, but you will mess them up if you really tighten them or there’s rust in it, consider it a one time use.
Bingo! You beat me to it. XZN indeed.
No. Those aren’t triple square screws. I have triple square and come across them often. But these in the video aren’t triple square.
Thanks for the great info!
lol, an “8 point bit” just use an S2 square head. Impossible to find!
Great info. Kudos to the camera person. Was wondering if it's your BRIDE ?
Give her a "RAISE".
It's a square bit
BE CAREFUL WHEN BYING FROM TRAILERSPLUS. THEY ADVERTISE A BETTER TRAILER BUT ONLY WHAT CAN BE SEEN FROM A WALK AROUND. THEY ADVERTISE A ONE PIECE ROOF, TILL YOU GET A LADDER AND SEE A THREE PIECE ROOF, THAT LEAKS. THERE SO CALLED SEALED FLOOR, ONLY MEETS THE INTERIOR PLYWOOD. IN THE NOSE ESPECIALLY YOU CAN LOOK FROM UNDERNEITH AND SEE 2 INCH GAPS BETWEEN FLOOR AND OUTER WALL