Great information. Like you, I'm a total trailering nerd and study the art. This includes knowing what things weigh, calculating fore and aft CG, measuring tongue weight and tracking things like mileage and tire date codes and always using quality tires at the proper pressure. As a matter of habit, I check pressure every time I hook up and set them at max pressure. In addition, I put my hand on the sidewall and hub of each corner of my trailer every time I stop for fuel or at a rest area. While I dont tow professionally, I haul one or two 5,500 lb offroad rigs all over the country and have nearly zero trailer issues...especially now that the Goodyear Scarathon trailer tire is off the market. It is my opinion that it is impossible to overthink or be too careful where these issues are concerned.
I use pressures set out in tire load and inflation tables. For example the table published by Goodyear for Endurance ST trailer tires shows load limits at inflation pressures starting from 25psi for all size tires to 65psi max, 80psi max or 110psi depending on the tire.
Tire manufactures provide a chart that gives the proper tire pressure for the amount of weight. What is printed on the side wall is the recommended cold pressure for the maximum weight for that tire. Very few of us carry the maximum weight a tire can handle, so it is reasonable to get the manufactures recommended pressure for the gross weight of our travel trailers(which will be less than the sidewall rating). You will get better wear because you are properly inflated.
Had a Firestone store at the height of the infamous Firestone 500 steel-belted radial debacle. 40+ years ago? Paranoia reigned in the tire industry. Company policy on vehicle tire inflation went from everyone saying “put 32 psi in” to “vehicle manufacturer’s recommendation”. Trailers were different. Company policy never wavered from filling trailer tires to maximum pressure. Their studies showed that only 2% of all tire failures were caused by over-inflation. This is a darn good video! Listen to him. Hey! You might still suffer from tire failure but the problem might be minimized if you keep ‘em aired up. Thanks!
BEST TIRE INFLATION VIDEO EVER! Thank You for this clear and factual presentation. We’ve been RV towing since 2008 without a tire blowout on inexpensive ST tires. As suggested by the tire shop owner, the tires are balanced and inflated to the maximum pressure as displayed on the tires. Our Tire reMinding system has come to the rescue twice informing us of slow pressure loss that was dealt with post-haste. Thank Again for the torque reminder.
Thank you for this video. I have towed small camping trailers for 30 years and will admit ignorance to the subject of tire pressure. We have come upon very rough roads when towing our trailer and the thought of airing down a bit has occurred to me. I got a Viair air compressor so that I could air back up. We haven't had to do it yet, but I am prepared. However, the information you shared in this video has helped me understand more. I have shared information about this video on the FaceBook channel on our specific kind of trailer and I hope those folks view this video. Thanks Trailersmith.
In the late 90's, i read a study that ryder funded. We leased our class 8 equipment there. It was a 10 year study that found something like 80% of road gators were virgin tires run under inflated. For every p.s.i below max, tire temperature increases, heating the steel belting and softening the surrounding rubber until the tread peels off or the tire explodes. I ran a lot of well maintained recapped tires on 11 axle Michigan special combination units licensed for 164,000 pounds and rarely had a bad tire. Hitting curbs and bad potholes destroys a tires integrity.
Hey bro, I learned from your video..... I didn't know the rim (wheels) were pressure rated for trailers. This is a very informative video; many thanx. : )
Great information on trailer wheels/tires! 👍 Generally a 10 degree change in ambient air temperature will cause a 1 psi change in tire pressure. It's STILL best to check those pressures!!
I get it. Max Pressure. I choose to air down since I run at 66% of rated weight. Running at 100% causes excess wear in the center of the tire. To ensure I'm not running under inflated I use an infrared thermometer and check that temps are even across the sides and middle of the tire.
The information you put in your post does not apply equally to radial tires, what is commonly referred to as radial deception. When you’re under inflate a radial tire center will well lift off the pavement so to speak causing the center of the tire to be smaller than the outer edge and it will scuff and cause where. Consequently too much air will lift the outer edges of the tire and cause it to Scott so if you’re running a proper radial tire air pressure Should be determined by Tire where not by looking out the sidewalls. If you’re running bias ply tires it’s just the opposite, but who would do that anyway that’s just asking for trouble with bias ply on a trailer tire. That’s why they don’t put them on cars anymore.
It seems your main reason for not airing down to match load is fear of forgetting to air back up. Fair enough... I would fall in that trap too. In my case, I tow a travel trailer with always pretty much the same stuff in it. Tires are 225/75-15 E and are rated for 80psi (wheels are rated for at least 80). However I did the CAT scale and the total weight on my trailer axles with fully loaded truck and trailer for travel is only 6800 lbs...or 1700lbs per tire. Now I well realize that loading is never equal on all 4 tires, so I added a 500 pound buffer per tire, and decided to pressure them for 2200 lbs. Turns out the tire charts show 55psi will support 2270 lbs for these tires. Thus I have been running at 55psi for 15000 miles now. Nice even wear on the tires so far, and a much less bouncy ride. Not shaking the s**t out of my trailer like I was at the 80psi on the sticker. Being my travel load is varying very little from tow to tow, and being I have allowed for a 500lb buffer per tire to account for uneven loading, I feel extremely comfortable like this, and have had no tire issues whatsoever at this psi, other than picking up a darn nail in the lot of a permanently closed fuel station, that I did not realize was closed until I was in the lot. As soon as I was in there I cringed as the lot was dirty and junk everywhere. Just glad I got out of there with only one of my 8 tires picking something up, but this was neither the tires fault nor the fault of the pressure in the tire
I only recently found your channel, I have learned a lot the hard way over 45 years of boat towing. It is so nice to have the advice of a pro. I always air up for trips, but neglect to until a big trip. I just went and aired up, they were all between 10 - 20 psi low. I learned from this video that the wheels have a psi rating, who knew?
Excellent video...the safest and the way to get your trailer tires to last the longest is to run the max inflation pressure on the sidewall of the tire. The tire will flex less and flexing is what contributes to wear and over heating. Just make sure you don't exceed the allowable pressure for the rim as stated in the video.
My 5th wheel has load range H tires which have a max of 110psi. I run them at 105 psi. We travel mostly in the desert SW so this gives a few extra psi for headroom. This has been working well for me.
The manufacturer's max rating accounts for the pressure increase as the tire heats up. A tire filled to 110 psi at 70f will increase to about 126.5 psi at 150f This is a 16.5 psi increase. Most tires will handle double or more the maximum rated pressure before failure
@@jasonharrison25 that’s true. But what temp is “cold tire pressure”? If I’m measuring when it’s 100F outside, the pressure will be higher than 70F which is a typical temp stated for measuring. If it’s 32 outside, then I’ll air higher, depending on the max temps I expect to see during the day.
@@jasonharrison25 that’s true. But what temp is “cold tire pressure”? If I’m measuring when it’s 100F outside, the pressure will be higher than 70F which is a typical temp stated for measuring. If it’s 32 outside, then I’ll air higher, depending on the max temps I expect to see during the day.
Goodyear endurance has been the BEST trailer tires for me. Xpress boats builds backtrack trailers and they send em out with terrible tires installed. I didnt know a tire could wear so funky. Had to get new ones before my warranty was up to make sure mt trailer wasnt outa wack. Great video by the way!!
Great video and information! You were right about "expensive"! I had a blowout on right rear of a two axle fifth wheel on our maiden voyage escaping California in 2021. Interstate 5 northbound in Oregon. Had checked and topped off all tires before the trip. 55 mph max in Cali, increased to 60 mph once in Oregon. The blowout destroyed the "J wrap" (lower trim), part of the belly pan (corplast), fender trim, etc. Total? $13,000. God bless the USAA!
On tandem ( or triple ) axle trailers, there is also the issue of the lateral sidewall flex when cornering, especially tight corners. Higher inflation pressure helps resist this flex. I look fwd to your comments on balancing tires. I always have my trailer tires balanced.
Yeah, he’s right about most things because most people can’t figure out the right air pressures and running their car tires but if you’re pulling your trailer empty or when it’s loaded, you’re nowhere near the maximum capacity of the trailer and tires. You can lower your air pressures as long, as you don’t go below minimum if you use your trailer loaded half of the capacity of the trailer going 10 or 15 pounds below maximum it’s not gonna hurt. Nothing if you’re pulling an empty lot you wanna lower your air pressures fine do it but that means when you load it, you have to put air in your tires, if you load it close to the maximum capacity of the trailer, every manufacture will always tell you to air your tires to maximum. I never run my pick up with maximum pressure unless I load it, but you have to know how to do a little math that counts out most people in that case just run maximum
I do check my tire pressures on my trailer before I leave. I’m super paranoid about it. I also check my vehicles tires before pulling my trailer. I wish I checked my Excursion tires more often but its not usually on the mind.
I laughed when you said "My Grand Dad aired down his wagon wheels" you go ahead and do it! Lol Great vid man I'm going to look for that psi stamp on my travel trailer wheels when I get home today! Good stuff!
Second comment, sorry, but I thought I'd touch on shops pumping tires to max pressure. Last year I was on the road and blew a trailer tire. No big deal, I just pulled over, threw the spare tire on, and was on my way. I made it a few miles and blew another tire, and I was out of spares. I had to leave the trailer, go 30 miles to the nearest Walmart to get another tire. When I got the tire replaced, I was about to leave when I realized that the truck I was driving didn't have onboard air, so I asked the tech, how much pressure is in the tire? He said they air up all tires to 30. I asked if they'd air it up to 80, and he was kind to do so. So when replacing a tire, check to see how much air they put in it.
Great vid. Rv tires... everything is max air press. I junked our china poppers, put on GY Endurances, weighed our loaded rv, went to the GY site and found we needed way less than the 65lb max you see everywhere. Running the lower pressure has the rv WAY MORE STABLE on the highways at turnpike speeds... which no matter how high the speed limit is, 62 mph is top speed for us.
So i had a purpose built little trailer made up just to haul one dirt bike behind my car. It was running the 4.80r8 tires. Bias ply's are all the offer, so i did the chauk method by slowly taking the air pressure down bit by bit till i got full contact across the tread pattern. Then air up 5psi for a buffer. Smoothed out the tow a lot, the tires never warmed up more then 20f above ambient temps. My thoughts were since the loads the same, i can adjust the pressures to match it, same as they do with car tires.
Took about a dozen calls, but finally got a rep at a manufacturer. There’s a 10% allowable both ways. Max 80 psi can go down to 73 as they expect road heat and loads to bring them to 80. If you run 80 normally, it can take road heat and weight for a time, but not as an every day thing. I’ve been running low end and taking a lot of nails and debris in the sidewalls. They said the sidewalks are not holding their rigidity to deflect debris and are not meant to face angled to the road. I was also told that it changes the profile of the tire and creates additional flex in the sidewalls which can damage the internal build of the tire.👍
Same here with an aluminum toy hauler similar to what's in the background of this video. I run load range H, 18ply, 6000lb rated, 125psi cold. My tire monitoring system shows them getting up to 147psi after all day of running down summertime hot Texas asphalt. Kind of freaked me out at first but that's what others see as well and I'm on my 2nd set of tires with the same results. The scales say I'm running ~13,000lb on my tandem 8k spread axles so well within my load range. My tire guy said to run them at full pressure and the tire is designed to handle the increase when it's hot outside. I usually run one load range higher than called for and limit my speed to 65mph and my ride is smooth.
Good video! I recommend carrying a Milwaukee M18 cordless portable air compressor, there nice, and easy to use. They also have a accurate gauge built in, and they work very fast. That way you can keep your tires at proper air pressure like recommended on this video
I pull a RV and the weight is consistent with in 300 lbs for the most part.. I ran a LT 16 tire with 80 PSI max .. when i weight the trailer in what i consider full,, water tank full LP tanks full gray and black empty with all our stuff, food drink etc,, (we full time so food weight can change our weight) and when looking at the tire manf weight and pressure chart run around 72 psi in them.. at 80 it cause a lot of stuff to fall, stuff move etc.. at 72 the ride is much smoother..
My 6000lb gvwr travel trailer has tandem axles and the tire tag says 50psi. However the axles are 3500 lb and each tire is rated for 1760lbs. I run 45psi. My truck calls for 80psi rear and 60psi front. The difference in tire wear and ride quality is greatly impacted by tire pressure. I run 65psi rear and 57 psi front during the seven months i am not rving. Many RVs run at max capacity of tires. I also carry a compressor capible of airing up my 80 psi tires.
I upgraded our TT tires from a D (65 max psi) rated to E (80 max psi) rated, which obviously have a higher weight rating. Presuming the wheels are rated for the higher psi, do I stay with the psi rating stated on the trailer or the higher rating on the tires? For the time being I have been splitting the difference and running 75.
I run my Load Range D’s at 60 psi. This is 4 tires on a 5500 GVWR trailer. I run them slightly less than max because I can climb 5000’ from my house in about 30 minutes and that’s going to increase tire pressure. I can also go down 3500-4000’ fairly quickly so I want a tire that has a bit of buffer above the GVWR of the trailer
Heat kills tires. All tires deflect (round to flat) when they come into contact with the road. How much they deflect is variable based on load and inflation (psi). The more deflection the greater the heat (because parts that were straight are bending). Now multiply that deflection by speed... this is why tires also have speed ratings... if you're driving 75mph max gross with max psi, on a tire only rated for 60mph, you shouldn't be surprised you had an issue. I'm towing a 3.2klb car on a 10.4k tandem axle trailer that weighs approx 1.2k. No issues not running max 80psi, except I'm not locking up and flatspotting my tires as often. But believe you me, last time I had an 8k excavator on that trailer- tires were at 80psi. Know your load, know your equipment, drive safe.
Too often we think we know better than the manufacturers on many things because our daddy or grandaddy did it a certain way, and so we do it the same. Or we think we know better than the designers and engineers that built whatever product we're using. Great video and the same approach I take with our tires.
@@jasonhatfield2471 I guess it depends on what the product is, and the risk involved. I've spent the last 40 years working in aviation, and the last 15 of those working failure analysis. I think manufacturers, their engineers and designers of all products have to consider their liabilitiy for any type of failure of their product even if there is misuse or neglect. Tires are no different, even if it's a "China Bomb" as some call them. If they produce enough bad products to develop that reputation their sales will fall off and at some point will be held responsible for failures either by the consumer or shareholders. You can't engineer something beyond the stupidity of some, but you can account for most other instances, but you have to charge enough for the product to do that.
I've been driving and trucking for almost 2,000,000 miles… Most tire blowouts are caused by OVER inflation. Get a grip this guy is a clown and should have listened when they told him to stay in school. Proper tire pressure is dictated by the load rating of the tire in relation to the actual load on the tire as well as variations in width of the wheel that can cause crowning of the tire or put more weight on the edges. A tire is like a balloon the more air you put in it the closer it is to popping. The only time under inflation is a problem is when it gets to extreme levels. I almost always run tires on my equipment that are highly overrated as far as weight carrying capacity which is also correlated to ply ratings. Therefore, the proper air pressure is often half of the maximum rating on the sidewall and that's why I have never had a blowout in almost 2,000,000 miles on the road. Even if it's normal people with normal tires on factory equipment there is almost never a need to run the maximum air pressure because the load on the tire is rarely at the maximum and usually does not exceed 75% of the maximum load so running the tires at the maximum pressure is literally like asking for a blowout!
Great video, follow up suggestion might be weird tire wear and what it means. I've got two trailer tires wearing on the edges, especially the inside edge. One might be a bad hub bearing which I changed out, both were 13" wheels and PSI max 65 but running at 50 psi. I bought new tires and will run them at 65 Max recommended PSI from now on.
I regularly check my trailer tire air pressure, especially before and during long trips and heavy loads. I also find a safe place to pull over and check my tires and hubs for any heat build up after the first 10 miles and at every stop afterward. A blown rv tire can and will destroy your rv. And it never fails close to home or near a tire shop.
Good comment, thank you for posting it! We are going over to the Pacific coast tomorrow morning and I just finished doing the tire checkup, but, I didn't think about the temperature thing! I do have a tpms on my wheels, but, my Dewalt IR temp reader also will now be along for the ride! Again, thanks for the reminder!
Saw a tire come apart on the interstate over the weekend. It was a triple axle cargo trailer. Tire spot bits behind it, then the tread separated and bounced across the median and across oncoming traffic. Super lucky there was a break in traffic or it would have cost someone their life. Just do the right thing and don’t think you are smarter that the engineers and manufacturers.
Or put some thought into it cause they have to make it a universal rule cause they don't know what the tire will be used for. Why not make it match the application.
Looking forward to your take on balancing trailer tires. The mounting dot is never right on with the stem as it should be and I’m always told that trailer tires don’t get balanced. I have thoughts on why they should be and look forward to your thoughts. Just found your channel and playing catch-up on your videos now. Excellent work.👍
I use a tire pressure monitor so I always know what my tires are at. To me its max pressure for max load, if not towing at max load then do you need max pressure? I typically run 70 psi because my RV is not putting max load on my tires for what they are rated for. They are rated for 5k pounds each max. That's 20k pounds total. My trailer weighs about half that loaded, I don't put half that pressure but I do back off 10 lbs. just because. In over 20 years of doing this on different trailers I have never once had a flat or a blow out. I guess do what you feel is right until it isn't.
I live in Los Vegas and the roads are hot. My issue is temperature, not pressure. At max 110, I get heat warnings on my TPMS. Lowering the pressure to 100 mostly solves this
My trailers tire stickers says 80 psi max. I ‘upgraded’ to 110 psi tires. Better tire a bit heavier. Was this a good move. Also, a better wheel which cracked and leak. So, the upgraded wheel and tire made sense. Your thoughts?
If you're pulling an empty trailer with full pressure in the tires, won't the bouncing "cup" the tires? My trailers are almost always loaded so I just make sure they are about 5 to 10% less than max. I'll start running them full pressure. Another nice thing to have is stem mounted TPMS so if the pressure goes up or down, you know about it by looking at your phone. My TPMS also has an alarm if the pressure drops quickly from a leak. A set of 4 TPMS cost less than $50. They also monitor temperature.
I've been pulling RV trailers for three years, I've always put max pressure in tires. My existing TT says 65 PSI, 1st one said 50 psi and hardly had to top them off, always checked and they were at 50 psi, but it's my second TT now that has the 65 PSI rating. I've noticed when i leave it at the storage yard - it always dips down to 50 psi. Starting to think they aren't putting the correct valve stem for that tire. I'm finding myself having to air up all four n spare before each trip. We are more of the once in a while type and located in the SE. So far by inflating before each trip, have not blown a tire up yet and I have them West Lakes on my current one. Yea would love to upgrade to GoodYear Endurance but im starting to think some of these china bombs failures could be because they are putting cheaper valve stems on that are designed to hold 50 and not 65 psi. Been thinking about talking to the tire shop about upgrading valve stems and getting the tires balanced. Great content, always going to be room for discussion!
My 2015 Grand Design came with West Lake tires and I’ll have to say I’ve had no problems at all with them. I’ve made 2 5K plus mile trips and several 1 K and rubber compound still looks great in them no cracking yet although they are getting a little bald at 9 years old and it is time to replace. Seriously considering replacing with the same brand. I’ve had 2 different sets of Goodyear in previous years that that I’ve had separation on and total recall on one set
Tire shops don't always understand that heavier duty valve stems are required if going over 50 PSI. We regularly use the ones with brass valve stems that are good for 80 PSI. We've seen many failures on the all rubber valves that crack and leak after a period of time at 65 PSI.
I'm starting to see "P" rated tires on new travel trailers. For example, I believe it was a Winnebago tandem TT with BF Goodrich All Terrains. It looked to be an "off road" looking package. So, can you run "P" rated tires on a trailer?
The old rule of thumb was yes, you can run P tires on a trailer, but the load capacity is de-rated by 10%. You can also run LT tires on trailers. It's been some years since I did the research, so the rules/guidelines may have changed since then ?
I agree with running at least very close to stated max tire pressure. But I have a dually and run a little lower on the rear tires. I figure if a single rear wheel truck can carry the same load my dually will handle 10 psi less in the rear.
If you aren't going to run max psi for the tire/wheel combo, use a tire pressure / load table for your tire to get the right tire pressure. Looking at the tables, one thing you will find out is that there are different tables for the same tire in a single or dually config, and the same tire will have a _lower_ capacity rating in a dually config than in a single tire config. Don't guess. Use Max PSI or use the tables. I use the tables, and normally set the PSI for the tire to carry at least 55% (Single) or 30% (Dual) of the axle rating. That said... In daily driving , my F-150 is aired down in the rear. It is still way over the air pressure required for the empty rear axle weight, but it is not high enough for a full load. I just make a point to air them back up before I haul anything.
Great info. i keep mine aired up and never park them for extended time in clay .it has to be min gravel but i park on scrap ply wood or cement . clay seems too suck the chemical out of the rubber that keeps them from cracking and pliable .
Air vs Nitrogen on travel trailer what would you recommend. I'm a retired truck driver last 18yrs was with WM. They ran Nitrogen on all trailers and trucks. Tire Blow Outs were obsolete.
I have a 1980s k20 Chevy that came with 16.5 wheels. The 16 inch trailer wheels fit. Is their any concerns using trailer wheels (not tires) on a pickup.
Im the type that does check tires before each day. Will see a low tire and say damn. Look at my shop compressor than hop in my truck 😅 i got through a lot of tires,rims,axels ect so do with that as you will 😂
I have a lowboy that I bought brand new. And the tires on the front axle doesn’t touch the ground. I have called the dealer and the manufacturer which salvation trailers, in my opinion their trailer is junk but I bought it in the Covid era so there was a limited supply. Well they told me it was because the trailer wasn’t level well I have changed hitches even tried to pull it with my wife’s ranger so the level isn’t the issue. Anything specific I should look for?
Question: My trailer's 1 65 ply tires are 62 MPH rated, which from what I understand is at max load. I keep them at max PSI. The weight capacity of the tires far exceed what GVWR of the trailer full loaded. When not loaded heavy or empty, the trailer is fine to go 75 MPH?
My favorite lake is about 150 miles from home. I always check the lug nuts before I leave and when I stop for a break. I always find loose nuts when I stop for a break. I blame it on the quality of the roads.
My pontoon trailer has a sticker like you mentioned that recommends 60 psi but the max psi on the tire days 80. What should I go by? I normally have been going by the tire recommendation
I want to start off saying that there is nothing wrong with just using the max psi. Max PSI is a safe default. But there is a balance of risks to consider. The major risk is underinflation leading to a tire failure. You should also consider the risk of an accident that could have been avoided if the trailer handled and braked better, and risk of damage to the trailer/load from road impacts and vibrations that are reduced by lower tire pressures. If you are willing to put a little effort in, you can get closer to the correct pressure and improve your overall safety. This means using tire pressure / load charts to determine the correct tire pressure for your trailer and tire combination. You can start off with just using some common sense and adjusting to your GVWR. ie my auto hauler is a tandem axle 7k GVWR trailer with ST205/75R15 Load Range D tires. At Max PSI - 65 - - the tires give me 8600# of tire capacity. That's overkill for a 7k trailer. 50 psi gives me 7280# of tire capacity, and the lower pressures make a huge difference in how the trailer handles. I feel this is very safe, as I am within the rated load for the tire even at GVWR, and I am usually closer to 6000#. For extra safety, I bump to 55 psi if I am adding more load than usual. To your point - running pressures for a specific load is a thing you can do, but it is probably more work than most people are willing to put in. I check tires and adjust pressure at the beginning of the day. I certainly do not adjust my pressures over the course of the day. But doing a tire pressure / load index table lookup for your GVWR is a one time effort and can improves the towing experience vs just running the max psi.
Love your channel! New subscriber!!! I have a travel trailer that is stored outside. One side is exposed to all day sun. The other side is in shade. How do I achieve the correct same max pressure on tires on both sides of rv when the sun keeps tires warm and pressure higher on sunny side?
I air mine down to 10 psi to tow the trailer across sand. It's the only way you'll get anywhere out in the dunes. At 50 psi you'll get stuck in the first 50 feet ! Also I only use co2 for tires since heat doesn't affect it.
It's hard to imagine a scenario where the manufacturers recommended air pressure sticker would supersede the tire and wheel max cold psi recommendation. Can you give an example?
? I bought 14 ply rated to 110 psi for 5th whl rv. Wheels are stamped max 110psi. If I max cold to 110psi when it heats up and the tire pressure goes beyond 110 is that safe? What do you recommend?
@keving530: It's OK. Listen to the video starting at 9:05, where he discusses this exact question. Air to max psi, then they heat up when rolling, then cool back down when you stop
A tire filled to 110 psi at 70f will rise to about 126.5 psi at 150f. 16.5 psi increase. And as he mentioned in the video. This is accounted for by the manufacturer. Most tires will tolerate at least double the pressure before failure
I have a One ton duly. The tag on the truck says 65PSI tiresay 80. Should I go buy the sticker or the tire? Especially when I'm telling a Fifth.wheel trailer.
When I used to tow with my Dodge, I ran 80F/65R. That was with 22” wheels on Load Range E, 3000+ lbs capacity All Terrains and never had any issues. If you run 60 psi in your fronts, you’ll prematurely wear your tires out.
If the tires are the same size and have the same load index as the tire mentioned on the truck sticker, then you use the PSI on the truck sticker. If the tires on the truck have a -different- size or load index than the tire mentioned on the truck sticker, then you have to determine the correct pressure by using the tire manufacturers' tire pressure / load tables. I think these are universal for tires with the same load index, so if you can't find the table from your tire manufacturer, you can use a generic table. Find the table for your tire size and load index. Then look at the truck sticker that tells you front and rear axle capacities. Do a lookup on the table for the weight that the tire would carry at max load of the axle (One half for front axle, SRW, one fourth for DRW), then use that pressure. I like to use 55% of the front axle / SRW and 30% of the DRW axle weight, just to give an extra margin of safety. Note that the same tire has a different table (or separate entries in the same table) for a dually config than it does as a single tire. They are rated lower in the dually config, so be sure to account for that.
I made this mistake. My 5th wheel came with load range D tires and a sticker saying 65psi. I switched to load range E tires, ran them at 65psi, and blew out two of them over several thousand miles. Now running new E tires at 80psi.
I've had so many cheap trailer tires blow out (the so-called China bombs) at max PSI I started to run them just a bit under the max (maybe 5% less) and that SEEMS to have helped. I stopped buying the cheapest trailer tires I could find and starting springing for Kenda Karriers and those have never had an issue at any PSI. I only bother filling them up when the wireless TPMS beeps at me at 80% of max PSI. I've never had an issue using the cheapest car tires I could buy, but trailer and motorcycle tires both seem to gain a large boost in reliability when purchasing slightly more premium options.
It behooves me to the depth of this topic that you go into in order for people to get it. Common sense just ain’t that common I guess! Good job though! 👍
Listen to this guy. Just towed RV to Alaska for 7 weeks. 11 thousand miles. Checked air pressure and lug nuts EVERY morning. Not one flat.
Great information. Like you, I'm a total trailering nerd and study the art. This includes knowing what things weigh, calculating fore and aft CG, measuring tongue weight and tracking things like mileage and tire date codes and always using quality tires at the proper pressure. As a matter of habit, I check pressure every time I hook up and set them at max pressure. In addition, I put my hand on the sidewall and hub of each corner of my trailer every time I stop for fuel or at a rest area. While I dont tow professionally, I haul one or two 5,500 lb offroad rigs all over the country and have nearly zero trailer issues...especially now that the Goodyear Scarathon trailer tire is off the market. It is my opinion that it is impossible to overthink or be too careful where these issues are concerned.
Sounds like you have a handle on taking care of your trailers. Thanks for watching.
Glad you did this video! Most people don’t even look at the trailer tires and when they do most just do the kick test.
I use pressures set out in tire load and inflation tables. For example the table published by Goodyear for Endurance ST trailer tires shows load limits at inflation pressures starting from 25psi for all size tires to 65psi max, 80psi max or 110psi depending on the tire.
Same tiresI have on my boat trailer. Best tire available that I could find. I check my tire pressure before every trip. Yep I am one of those guys
Tire manufactures provide a chart that gives the proper tire pressure for the amount of weight. What is printed on the side wall is the recommended cold pressure for the maximum weight for that tire. Very few of us carry the maximum weight a tire can handle, so it is reasonable to get the manufactures recommended pressure for the gross weight of our travel trailers(which will be less than the sidewall rating). You will get better wear because you are properly inflated.
Listen to this guy!
Had a Firestone store at the height of the infamous Firestone 500 steel-belted radial debacle. 40+ years ago? Paranoia reigned in the tire industry. Company policy on vehicle tire inflation went from everyone saying “put 32 psi in” to “vehicle manufacturer’s recommendation”. Trailers were different. Company policy never wavered from filling trailer tires to maximum pressure. Their studies showed that only 2% of all tire failures were caused by over-inflation. This is a darn good video! Listen to him. Hey! You might still suffer from tire failure but the problem might be minimized if you keep ‘em aired up. Thanks!
BEST TIRE INFLATION VIDEO EVER! Thank You for this clear and factual presentation. We’ve been RV towing since 2008 without a tire blowout on inexpensive ST tires. As suggested by the tire shop owner, the tires are balanced and inflated to the maximum pressure as displayed on the tires. Our Tire reMinding system has come to the rescue twice informing us of slow pressure loss that was dealt with post-haste. Thank Again for the torque reminder.
Thank you for this video. I have towed small camping trailers for 30 years and will admit ignorance to the subject of tire pressure. We have come upon very rough roads when towing our trailer and the thought of airing down a bit has occurred to me. I got a Viair air compressor so that I could air back up. We haven't had to do it yet, but I am prepared. However, the information you shared in this video has helped me understand more. I have shared information about this video on the FaceBook channel on our specific kind of trailer and I hope those folks view this video. Thanks Trailersmith.
I like this guy. Must be a Texan. Speak the truth sir. Keep on keepin' on.
In the late 90's, i read a study that ryder funded. We leased our class 8 equipment there. It was a 10 year study that found something like 80% of road gators were virgin tires run under inflated. For every p.s.i below max, tire temperature increases, heating the steel belting and softening the surrounding rubber until the tread peels off or the tire explodes. I ran a lot of well maintained recapped tires on 11 axle Michigan special combination units licensed for 164,000 pounds and rarely had a bad tire. Hitting curbs and bad potholes destroys a tires integrity.
Hey bro, I learned from your video..... I didn't know the rim (wheels) were pressure rated for trailers. This is a very informative video; many thanx. : )
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Great information on trailer wheels/tires! 👍
Generally a 10 degree change in ambient air temperature will cause a 1 psi change in tire pressure. It's STILL best to check those pressures!!
I get it. Max Pressure. I choose to air down since I run at 66% of rated weight. Running at 100% causes excess wear in the center of the tire. To ensure I'm not running under inflated I use an infrared thermometer and check that temps are even across the sides and middle of the tire.
The information you put in your post does not apply equally to radial tires, what is commonly referred to as radial deception. When you’re under inflate a radial tire center will well lift off the pavement so to speak causing the center of the tire to be smaller than the outer edge and it will scuff and cause where. Consequently too much air will lift the outer edges of the tire and cause it to Scott so if you’re running a proper radial tire air pressure Should be determined by Tire where not by looking out the sidewalls. If you’re running bias ply tires it’s just the opposite, but who would do that anyway that’s just asking for trouble with bias ply on a trailer tire. That’s why they don’t put them on cars anymore.
It seems your main reason for not airing down to match load is fear of forgetting to air back up. Fair enough... I would fall in that trap too. In my case, I tow a travel trailer with always pretty much the same stuff in it. Tires are 225/75-15 E and are rated for 80psi (wheels are rated for at least 80). However I did the CAT scale and the total weight on my trailer axles with fully loaded truck and trailer for travel is only 6800 lbs...or 1700lbs per tire. Now I well realize that loading is never equal on all 4 tires, so I added a 500 pound buffer per tire, and decided to pressure them for 2200 lbs. Turns out the tire charts show 55psi will support 2270 lbs for these tires. Thus I have been running at 55psi for 15000 miles now. Nice even wear on the tires so far, and a much less bouncy ride. Not shaking the s**t out of my trailer like I was at the 80psi on the sticker. Being my travel load is varying very little from tow to tow, and being I have allowed for a 500lb buffer per tire to account for uneven loading, I feel extremely comfortable like this, and have had no tire issues whatsoever at this psi, other than picking up a darn nail in the lot of a permanently closed fuel station, that I did not realize was closed until I was in the lot. As soon as I was in there I cringed as the lot was dirty and junk everywhere. Just glad I got out of there with only one of my 8 tires picking something up, but this was neither the tires fault nor the fault of the pressure in the tire
I only recently found your channel, I have learned a lot the hard way over 45 years of boat towing. It is so nice to have the advice of a pro. I always air up for trips, but neglect to until a big trip. I just went and aired up, they were all between 10 - 20 psi low. I learned from this video that the wheels have a psi rating, who knew?
Excellent video...the safest and the way to get your trailer tires to last the longest is to run the max inflation pressure on the sidewall of the tire. The tire will flex less and flexing is what contributes to wear and over heating. Just make sure you don't exceed the allowable pressure for the rim as stated in the video.
Boy have I been doing it wrong. I always assumed the tire alone dictated air pressure. Appreciate the clarification. 👍
Great channel man. Really appreciate all your information and effort getting these videos out.
My 5th wheel has load range H tires which have a max of 110psi. I run them at 105 psi. We travel mostly in the desert SW so this gives a few extra psi for headroom. This has been working well for me.
The manufacturer's max rating accounts for the pressure increase as the tire heats up.
A tire filled to 110 psi at 70f will increase to about 126.5 psi at 150f
This is a 16.5 psi increase. Most tires will handle double or more the maximum rated pressure before failure
@@jasonharrison25 That 110 psi I believe is a cold rating. The engineers knew it would go up at higher temps and that is built in.
@@justsaynrush9689 exactly
@@jasonharrison25 that’s true. But what temp is “cold tire pressure”? If I’m measuring when it’s 100F outside, the pressure will be higher than 70F which is a typical temp stated for measuring.
If it’s 32 outside, then I’ll air higher, depending on the max temps I expect to see during the day.
@@jasonharrison25 that’s true. But what temp is “cold tire pressure”? If I’m measuring when it’s 100F outside, the pressure will be higher than 70F which is a typical temp stated for measuring.
If it’s 32 outside, then I’ll air higher, depending on the max temps I expect to see during the day.
Filling up the tire with premium air is the key.
Definitely....the more expensive the air, the better it is 😂
Don't forget to change out to winter air during the fall season.
I recommend etahnol-free air, though it can be hard to find.
We only have the premium air avaliable in Canada. Seems to work well on everything. The fresher, the better.
Great topic and information for sure. The U.S.A. air comment was awesome, lol
Goodyear endurance has been the BEST trailer tires for me. Xpress boats builds backtrack trailers and they send em out with terrible tires installed. I didnt know a tire could wear so funky. Had to get new ones before my warranty was up to make sure mt trailer wasnt outa wack.
Great video by the way!!
Great video and information! You were right about "expensive"!
I had a blowout on right rear of a two axle fifth wheel on our maiden voyage escaping California in 2021. Interstate 5 northbound in Oregon. Had checked and topped off all tires before the trip. 55 mph max in Cali, increased to 60 mph once in Oregon.
The blowout destroyed the "J wrap" (lower trim), part of the belly pan (corplast), fender trim, etc. Total? $13,000. God bless the USAA!
so usaa paid for the damage? we have usaa and was wondering. what about a water leak under the trailer? would you happen to know? thanks
On tandem ( or triple ) axle trailers, there is also the issue of the lateral sidewall flex when cornering, especially tight corners. Higher inflation pressure helps resist this flex.
I look fwd to your comments on balancing tires. I always have my trailer tires balanced.
Yeah, he’s right about most things because most people can’t figure out the right air pressures and running their car tires but if you’re pulling your trailer empty or when it’s loaded, you’re nowhere near the maximum capacity of the trailer and tires. You can lower your air pressures as long, as you don’t go below minimum if you use your trailer loaded half of the capacity of the trailer going 10 or 15 pounds below maximum it’s not gonna hurt. Nothing if you’re pulling an empty lot you wanna lower your air pressures fine do it but that means when you load it, you have to put air in your tires, if you load it close to the maximum capacity of the trailer, every manufacture will always tell you to air your tires to maximum. I never run my pick up with maximum pressure unless I load it, but you have to know how to do a little math that counts out most people in that case just run maximum
Great information and glad to find this channel so I subscribed!
I do check my tire pressures on my trailer before I leave. I’m super paranoid about it. I also check my vehicles tires before pulling my trailer. I wish I checked my Excursion tires more often but its not usually on the mind.
I laughed when you said "My Grand Dad aired down his wagon wheels" you go ahead and do it! Lol Great vid man I'm going to look for that psi stamp on my travel trailer wheels when I get home today! Good stuff!
I’ve told so many people the same information you have just said. Great video.
Second comment, sorry, but I thought I'd touch on shops pumping tires to max pressure. Last year I was on the road and blew a trailer tire. No big deal, I just pulled over, threw the spare tire on, and was on my way. I made it a few miles and blew another tire, and I was out of spares. I had to leave the trailer, go 30 miles to the nearest Walmart to get another tire. When I got the tire replaced, I was about to leave when I realized that the truck I was driving didn't have onboard air, so I asked the tech, how much pressure is in the tire? He said they air up all tires to 30. I asked if they'd air it up to 80, and he was kind to do so. So when replacing a tire, check to see how much air they put in it.
Project Farm just released his findings on tire pressure gauges. It seems the digital gauges are more likely to be accurate.
Great vid.
Rv tires... everything is max air press.
I junked our china poppers, put on GY Endurances, weighed our loaded rv, went to the GY site and found we needed way less than the 65lb max you see everywhere.
Running the lower pressure has the rv WAY MORE STABLE on the highways at turnpike speeds... which no matter how high the speed limit is, 62 mph is top speed for us.
I'm interested to know -- when you say "way less", how much less were you looking at?
So i had a purpose built little trailer made up just to haul one dirt bike behind my car. It was running the 4.80r8 tires. Bias ply's are all the offer, so i did the chauk method by slowly taking the air pressure down bit by bit till i got full contact across the tread pattern. Then air up 5psi for a buffer. Smoothed out the tow a lot, the tires never warmed up more then 20f above ambient temps. My thoughts were since the loads the same, i can adjust the pressures to match it, same as they do with car tires.
Great factual information ,thanks for sharing.
Took about a dozen calls, but finally got a rep at a manufacturer. There’s a 10% allowable both ways. Max 80 psi can go down to 73 as they expect road heat and loads to bring them to 80. If you run 80 normally, it can take road heat and weight for a time, but not as an every day thing. I’ve been running low end and taking a lot of nails and debris in the sidewalls. They said the sidewalks are not holding their rigidity to deflect debris and are not meant to face angled to the road. I was also told that it changes the profile of the tire and creates additional flex in the sidewalls which can damage the internal build of the tire.👍
My 5th wheel tires are suppose to be set to 125psi. I keep it there. They get really high when traveling but cool back down to 125psi.
Same here with an aluminum toy hauler similar to what's in the background of this video. I run load range H, 18ply, 6000lb rated, 125psi cold. My tire monitoring system shows them getting up to 147psi after all day of running down summertime hot Texas asphalt. Kind of freaked me out at first but that's what others see as well and I'm on my 2nd set of tires with the same results. The scales say I'm running ~13,000lb on my tandem 8k spread axles so well within my load range. My tire guy said to run them at full pressure and the tire is designed to handle the increase when it's hot outside. I usually run one load range higher than called for and limit my speed to 65mph and my ride is smooth.
Good video! I recommend carrying a Milwaukee M18 cordless portable air compressor, there nice, and easy to use. They also have a accurate gauge built in, and they work very fast. That way you can keep your tires at proper air pressure like recommended on this video
I had to buy some schrader to npt adapters to fill my dually tires. Gonna see of it works when they show up
Cheesy rubber valve stems are only good for like 60 psi. Get metal stems if you have some good 80psi tires.
More air equals more load.
I pull a RV and the weight is consistent with in 300 lbs for the most part.. I ran a LT 16 tire with 80 PSI max .. when i weight the trailer in what i consider full,, water tank full LP tanks full gray and black empty with all our stuff, food drink etc,, (we full time so food weight can change our weight) and when looking at the tire manf weight and pressure chart run around 72 psi in them.. at 80 it cause a lot of stuff to fall, stuff move etc.. at 72 the ride is much smoother..
LT tires. Smart man !
My 6000lb gvwr travel trailer has tandem axles and the tire tag says 50psi. However the axles are 3500 lb and each tire is rated for 1760lbs. I run 45psi. My truck calls for 80psi rear and 60psi front. The difference in tire wear and ride quality is greatly impacted by tire pressure. I run 65psi rear and 57 psi front during the seven months i am not rving. Many RVs run at max capacity of tires. I also carry a compressor capible of airing up my 80 psi tires.
I upgraded our TT tires from a D (65 max psi) rated to E (80 max psi) rated, which obviously have a higher weight rating. Presuming the wheels are rated for the higher psi, do I stay with the psi rating stated on the trailer or the higher rating on the tires? For the time being I have been splitting the difference and running 75.
If I'm running empty for any distance, I remove the front two tires. Great ride and saves some rubber!
good info, just make sure the valve is also a high pressure valve
I run my Load Range D’s at 60 psi. This is 4 tires on a 5500 GVWR trailer.
I run them slightly less than max because I can climb 5000’ from my house in about 30 minutes and that’s going to increase tire pressure.
I can also go down 3500-4000’ fairly quickly so I want a tire that has a bit of buffer above the GVWR of the trailer
Heat kills tires. All tires deflect (round to flat) when they come into contact with the road. How much they deflect is variable based on load and inflation (psi). The more deflection the greater the heat (because parts that were straight are bending). Now multiply that deflection by speed... this is why tires also have speed ratings... if you're driving 75mph max gross with max psi, on a tire only rated for 60mph, you shouldn't be surprised you had an issue.
I'm towing a 3.2klb car on a 10.4k tandem axle trailer that weighs approx 1.2k. No issues not running max 80psi, except I'm not locking up and flatspotting my tires as often. But believe you me, last time I had an 8k excavator on that trailer- tires were at 80psi.
Know your load, know your equipment, drive safe.
Too often we think we know better than the manufacturers on many things because our daddy or grandaddy did it a certain way, and so we do it the same. Or we think we know better than the designers and engineers that built whatever product we're using. Great video and the same approach I take with our tires.
They make good guidelines and recommendations but use case varies.
Engineers build things to meet numerous requirements, many of them not focused on quality or longevity.
@@jasonhatfield2471 Wondering where I can find the wagon wheel inflation chart, very funny!
@@jasonhatfield2471 I guess it depends on what the product is, and the risk involved. I've spent the last 40 years working in aviation, and the last 15 of those working failure analysis. I think manufacturers, their engineers and designers of all products have to consider their liabilitiy for any type of failure of their product even if there is misuse or neglect. Tires are no different, even if it's a "China Bomb" as some call them. If they produce enough bad products to develop that reputation their sales will fall off and at some point will be held responsible for failures either by the consumer or shareholders. You can't engineer something beyond the stupidity of some, but you can account for most other instances, but you have to charge enough for the product to do that.
I've been driving and trucking for almost 2,000,000 miles… Most tire blowouts are caused by OVER inflation. Get a grip this guy is a clown and should have listened when they told him to stay in school. Proper tire pressure is dictated by the load rating of the tire in relation to the actual load on the tire as well as variations in width of the wheel that can cause crowning of the tire or put more weight on the edges. A tire is like a balloon the more air you put in it the closer it is to popping. The only time under inflation is a problem is when it gets to extreme levels. I almost always run tires on my equipment that are highly overrated as far as weight carrying capacity which is also correlated to ply ratings. Therefore, the proper air pressure is often half of the maximum rating on the sidewall and that's why I have never had a blowout in almost 2,000,000 miles on the road. Even if it's normal people with normal tires on factory equipment there is almost never a need to run the maximum air pressure because the load on the tire is rarely at the maximum and usually does not exceed 75% of the maximum load so running the tires at the maximum pressure is literally like asking for a blowout!
Great video, follow up suggestion might be weird tire wear and what it means. I've got two trailer tires wearing on the edges, especially the inside edge. One might be a bad hub bearing which I changed out, both were 13" wheels and PSI max 65 but running at 50 psi. I bought new tires and will run them at 65 Max recommended PSI from now on.
Great information! You hear so much various comments on the subject it gets a little confusing.
I regularly check my trailer tire air pressure, especially before and during long trips and heavy loads. I also find a safe place to pull over and check my tires and hubs for any heat build up after the first 10 miles and at every stop afterward. A blown rv tire can and will destroy your rv. And it never fails close to home or near a tire shop.
Good comment, thank you for posting it! We are going over to the Pacific coast tomorrow morning and I just finished doing the tire checkup, but, I didn't think about the temperature thing! I do have a tpms on my wheels, but, my Dewalt IR temp reader also will now be along for the ride! Again, thanks for the reminder!
Truck tire inflation when towing is a topic I would love to hear about
Saw a tire come apart on the interstate over the weekend. It was a triple axle cargo trailer. Tire spot bits behind it, then the tread separated and bounced across the median and across oncoming traffic. Super lucky there was a break in traffic or it would have cost someone their life. Just do the right thing and don’t think you are smarter that the engineers and manufacturers.
Or put some thought into it cause they have to make it a universal rule cause they don't know what the tire will be used for. Why not make it match the application.
Looking forward to your take on balancing trailer tires. The mounting dot is never right on with the stem as it should be and I’m always told that trailer tires don’t get balanced. I have thoughts on why they should be and look forward to your thoughts. Just found your channel and playing catch-up on your videos now. Excellent work.👍
I had my trailer tires balanced just to make it a more stable tow.
Great info. No BS just plain good info.👍 Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
I use a tire pressure monitor so I always know what my tires are at. To me its max pressure for max load, if not towing at max load then do you need max pressure? I typically run 70 psi because my RV is not putting max load on my tires for what they are rated for. They are rated for 5k pounds each max. That's 20k pounds total. My trailer weighs about half that loaded, I don't put half that pressure but I do back off 10 lbs. just because. In over 20 years of doing this on different trailers I have never once had a flat or a blow out. I guess do what you feel is right until it isn't.
I live in Los Vegas and the roads are hot. My issue is temperature, not pressure. At max 110, I get heat warnings on my TPMS. Lowering the pressure to 100 mostly solves this
You can't adjust the temp warning? That sounds like a bad design.
Where on the wheel would it be stamped for the air pressure? I did not know that.
My trailers tire stickers says 80 psi max. I ‘upgraded’ to 110 psi tires. Better tire a bit heavier. Was this a good move. Also, a better wheel which cracked and leak. So, the upgraded wheel and tire made sense. Your thoughts?
Question. What if the trailer says 65psi. And the tires were upgraded to 12ply. So the new tire says 95psi max. Were do you set it then
If you're pulling an empty trailer with full pressure in the tires, won't the bouncing "cup" the tires? My trailers are almost always loaded so I just make sure they are about 5 to 10% less than max. I'll start running them full pressure. Another nice thing to have is stem mounted TPMS so if the pressure goes up or down, you know about it by looking at your phone. My TPMS also has an alarm if the pressure drops quickly from a leak. A set of 4 TPMS cost less than $50. They also monitor temperature.
Yes and it will wear out the centers too. This guy is a clown.
I've been pulling RV trailers for three years, I've always put max pressure in tires. My existing TT says 65 PSI, 1st one said 50 psi and hardly had to top them off, always checked and they were at 50 psi, but it's my second TT now that has the 65 PSI rating. I've noticed when i leave it at the storage yard - it always dips down to 50 psi. Starting to think they aren't putting the correct valve stem for that tire. I'm finding myself having to air up all four n spare before each trip. We are more of the once in a while type and located in the SE. So far by inflating before each trip, have not blown a tire up yet and I have them West Lakes on my current one. Yea would love to upgrade to GoodYear Endurance but im starting to think some of these china bombs failures could be because they are putting cheaper valve stems on that are designed to hold 50 and not 65 psi. Been thinking about talking to the tire shop about upgrading valve stems and getting the tires balanced. Great content, always going to be room for discussion!
My 2015 Grand Design came with West Lake tires and I’ll have to say I’ve had no problems at all with them. I’ve made 2 5K plus mile trips and several 1 K and rubber compound still looks great in them no cracking yet although they are getting a little bald at 9 years old and it is time to replace. Seriously considering replacing with the same brand. I’ve had 2 different sets of Goodyear in previous years that that I’ve had separation on and total recall on one set
Tire shops don't always understand that heavier duty valve stems are required if going over 50 PSI. We regularly use the ones with brass valve stems that are good for 80 PSI. We've seen many failures on the all rubber valves that crack and leak after a period of time at 65 PSI.
I'm starting to see "P" rated tires on new travel trailers. For example, I believe it was a Winnebago tandem TT with BF Goodrich All Terrains. It looked to be an "off road" looking package. So, can you run "P" rated tires on a trailer?
The old rule of thumb was yes, you can run P tires on a trailer, but the load capacity is de-rated by 10%. You can also run LT tires on trailers. It's been some years since I did the research, so the rules/guidelines may have changed since then ?
I agree with running at least very close to stated max tire pressure. But I have a dually and run a little lower on the rear tires. I figure if a single rear wheel truck can carry the same load my dually will handle 10 psi less in the rear.
This was about trailer tires.
If you aren't going to run max psi for the tire/wheel combo, use a tire pressure / load table for your tire to get the right tire pressure.
Looking at the tables, one thing you will find out is that there are different tables for the same tire in a single or dually config, and the same tire will have a _lower_ capacity rating in a dually config than in a single tire config.
Don't guess. Use Max PSI or use the tables. I use the tables, and normally set the PSI for the tire to carry at least 55% (Single) or 30% (Dual) of the axle rating.
That said... In daily driving , my F-150 is aired down in the rear. It is still way over the air pressure required for the empty rear axle weight, but it is not high enough for a full load. I just make a point to air them back up before I haul anything.
I fill my trailer tires with Japanese Air and it’s the best. 😊
I hear Japanese air is pretty good, too. 😉
If you have a tandem trl camper do you recommend rotating the tires ??? and ifso what pattern do you recommend thanks
Is Canadian air not as good for tires are USA air? :-p
Is there a Non Chinese trailer tire manufactured for the American market ?
Great video! Sorry this is an edit! What is the outside air temp? We should be using when inflating our tires to max cold temp!
Great info. i keep mine aired up and never park them for extended time in clay .it has to be min gravel but i park on scrap ply wood or cement . clay seems too suck the chemical out of the rubber that keeps them from cracking and pliable .
Air vs Nitrogen on travel trailer what would you recommend. I'm a retired truck driver last 18yrs was with WM. They ran Nitrogen on all trailers and trucks. Tire Blow Outs were obsolete.
I do not recall the specific number but I believe normal air is appx 70-80% nitrogen. 😉🤔🤨
So without the load is says 80psi when I put a load on it the pressure will increase, so do I let some out?
I’m airing down my tandem 14’ trailer. I was running max air and I only haul a 2000# side by side. Tires are balding down the middle. Dropping 10 PSI.
and that is why you lookup the PSI/weight chart for your specific tires and set accordingly.
Is a service bed or flat bed going on it? I don't remember what you planned in the beginning other than Marve is for work.
I have a 1980s k20 Chevy that came with 16.5 wheels. The 16 inch trailer wheels fit. Is their any concerns using trailer wheels (not tires) on a pickup.
Many people never consider speed rating . Low PSI and high speed is a big problem.
The gaiter tire treads on the road are from retread tires failing not so much from under inflated tires.
Im the type that does check tires before each day. Will see a low tire and say damn. Look at my shop compressor than hop in my truck 😅 i got through a lot of tires,rims,axels ect so do with that as you will 😂
I have a lowboy that I bought brand new. And the tires on the front axle doesn’t touch the ground. I have called the dealer and the manufacturer which salvation trailers, in my opinion their trailer is junk but I bought it in the Covid era so there was a limited supply. Well they told me it was because the trailer wasn’t level well I have changed hitches even tried to pull it with my wife’s ranger so the level isn’t the issue. Anything specific I should look for?
Question: My trailer's 1 65 ply tires are 62 MPH rated, which from what I understand is at max load. I keep them at max PSI. The weight capacity of the tires far exceed what GVWR of the trailer full loaded. When not loaded heavy or empty, the trailer is fine to go 75 MPH?
Awesome video information. Thanks Don
My favorite lake is about 150 miles from home. I always check the lug nuts before I leave and when I stop for a break. I always find loose nuts when I stop for a break. I blame it on the quality of the roads.
My pontoon trailer has a sticker like you mentioned that recommends 60 psi but the max psi on the tire days 80. What should I go by? I normally have been going by the tire recommendation
Run 80. Less likely to blow out especially in hot weather.
How does elevation affect psi ? Say going from 5k ft to 12 k ?
Most the ST tires I seen blow out. Where from age. 10y old ST tires are a time bomb rolling.
I want to start off saying that there is nothing wrong with just using the max psi. Max PSI is a safe default.
But there is a balance of risks to consider. The major risk is underinflation leading to a tire failure. You should also consider the risk of an accident that could have been avoided if the trailer handled and braked better, and risk of damage to the trailer/load from road impacts and vibrations that are reduced by lower tire pressures.
If you are willing to put a little effort in, you can get closer to the correct pressure and improve your overall safety. This means using tire pressure / load charts to determine the correct tire pressure for your trailer and tire combination.
You can start off with just using some common sense and adjusting to your GVWR. ie my auto hauler is a tandem axle 7k GVWR trailer with ST205/75R15 Load Range D tires. At Max PSI - 65 - - the tires give me 8600# of tire capacity. That's overkill for a 7k trailer. 50 psi gives me 7280# of tire capacity, and the lower pressures make a huge difference in how the trailer handles. I feel this is very safe, as I am within the rated load for the tire even at GVWR, and I am usually closer to 6000#. For extra safety, I bump to 55 psi if I am adding more load than usual.
To your point - running pressures for a specific load is a thing you can do, but it is probably more work than most people are willing to put in. I check tires and adjust pressure at the beginning of the day. I certainly do not adjust my pressures over the course of the day. But doing a tire pressure / load index table lookup for your GVWR is a one time effort and can improves the towing experience vs just running the max psi.
Love your channel! New subscriber!!! I have a travel trailer that is stored outside. One side is exposed to all day sun. The other side is in shade. How do I achieve the correct same max pressure on tires on both sides of rv when the sun keeps tires warm and pressure higher on sunny side?
I have the same problem and what I do is check them after cooling down all night but before the sun comes up.
Uh, shade the tire. Lean a sheet of plywood over it, Park another vehicle next to it, whatever it takes.
Thanks, great ideas.
Do it early in the morning
What about when you put 14 ply tires on a trailer that was made for 10 ply?
Thank you.
I air mine down to 10 psi to tow the trailer across sand. It's the only way you'll get anywhere out in the dunes. At 50 psi you'll get stuck in the first 50 feet ! Also I only use co2 for tires since heat doesn't affect it.
Thanks for sharing all the great content
It's hard to imagine a scenario where the manufacturers recommended air pressure sticker would supersede the tire and wheel max cold psi recommendation.
Can you give an example?
We live at sea level……what happens when we travel the Sierras at 5000 ft ?
Do we air down ?
Not just the trailer, but the tow vehicle as well. Both need attention as the seasons change.
Great information. Thank you so much!
? I bought 14 ply rated to 110 psi for 5th whl rv. Wheels are stamped max 110psi. If I max cold to 110psi when it heats up and the tire pressure goes beyond 110 is that safe? What do you recommend?
@keving530: It's OK. Listen to the video starting at 9:05, where he discusses this exact question. Air to max psi, then they heat up when rolling, then cool back down when you stop
A tire filled to 110 psi at 70f will rise to about 126.5 psi at 150f. 16.5 psi increase. And as he mentioned in the video. This is accounted for by the manufacturer.
Most tires will tolerate at least double the pressure before failure
I always worry about max air pressure going from 80 psi to 90 psi because of heat transfer
The issue I pay attention too is Gain and how the load will affect that increase
I have a One ton duly. The tag on the truck says 65PSI tiresay 80. Should I go buy the sticker or the tire? Especially when I'm telling a Fifth.wheel trailer.
When I used to tow with my Dodge, I ran 80F/65R. That was with 22” wheels on Load Range E, 3000+ lbs capacity All Terrains and never had any issues. If you run 60 psi in your fronts, you’ll prematurely wear your tires out.
If the tires are the same size and have the same load index as the tire mentioned on the truck sticker, then you use the PSI on the truck sticker.
If the tires on the truck have a -different- size or load index than the tire mentioned on the truck sticker, then you have to determine the correct pressure by using the tire manufacturers' tire pressure / load tables. I think these are universal for tires with the same load index, so if you can't find the table from your tire manufacturer, you can use a generic table.
Find the table for your tire size and load index. Then look at the truck sticker that tells you front and rear axle capacities. Do a lookup on the table for the weight that the tire would carry at max load of the axle (One half for front axle, SRW, one fourth for DRW), then use that pressure. I like to use 55% of the front axle / SRW and 30% of the DRW axle weight, just to give an extra margin of safety.
Note that the same tire has a different table (or separate entries in the same table) for a dually config than it does as a single tire. They are rated lower in the dually config, so be sure to account for that.
I made this mistake. My 5th wheel came with load range D tires and a sticker saying 65psi. I switched to load range E tires, ran them at 65psi, and blew out two of them over several thousand miles. Now running new E tires at 80psi.
I've had so many cheap trailer tires blow out (the so-called China bombs) at max PSI I started to run them just a bit under the max (maybe 5% less) and that SEEMS to have helped. I stopped buying the cheapest trailer tires I could find and starting springing for Kenda Karriers and those have never had an issue at any PSI. I only bother filling them up when the wireless TPMS beeps at me at 80% of max PSI.
I've never had an issue using the cheapest car tires I could buy, but trailer and motorcycle tires both seem to gain a large boost in reliability when purchasing slightly more premium options.
It behooves me to the depth of this topic that you go into in order for people to get it. Common sense just ain’t that common I guess! Good job though! 👍
Don’t forget to use high pressure brass necked valve stems too. Why don’t trailers have shocks?