Відео

If ever I was jealous of a tool cabinet it's this one. Mr Studley would approve.

Fantastic bench mate. Thanks for sharing - I intend to copy your leg vise - just outstanding.

Love your tool cabinet. Beautiful work there. When you buy an expensive hand tool you should feel confident that you can trust that the depth stop will work! I’ve found the Veritas knurled knobs to be totally unreliable for tightening down the fence and depth stop, and this mechanism seems to be the Achilles heel and a major flaw in engineering with this Veritas rabbet plane and their plow plane also (which I own). Veritas would be wise to re-engineer these knobs so they can be tightened securely with a driver, or go to a wing nut type like my trusty Record 778 that can be tightened securely without pliers. Perhaps not as elegant as the Veritas brass knurled knobs, but I’ve never had any issues with slippage of the depth stop or fence with the Record 778. The straight blade in the 778 is not an issue either on end grain if the blade is sharp - especially since I saw to the depth line on end grain anyway to prevent tearout.

That’s fantastic mate.

Oh lord. You said cinnamon. Hopefully those TikTokers don’t try the Quebracho challenge. 😮😳

You may find the plane more comfortable to hold with your non-dominant (left) hand if you remove the front knob and use that to set your thumb (as you push laterally against the body with your palm). In fact, I made a low brass know (ala a block plane knob, but lower) to rest the thumb. Secondly, I recognise what you say about the depth screw's knob loosening. I tighten it with a plastic-headed vise grip, and this works very well. No slipping. Use one also on the fence rod knobs. Regards from Perth, Derek

I love your hand tool cabinet superb work.hey I just got my veritas low angle jack plane just arrived yesterday. I like it very much .i like your workbench beautiful size. Australia.

SLAYEEEEEERRRRR 🤘

I'm so glad to see an American carpenter using metric. I'm an American & I've learned both systems since I was 5. Over time I became more interested in metric. Now I use metric for everything. I even switched to the 24 hour clock.

Using a couple of small glass bowl to contain a small amount of the solution to wet the sponge in would be a lot easier.

Thank You 🧡❤💚

Polska

This is great - thank you! I am trying to figure out if I should get one of these vs getting a stanley 78 - do you have any experience with the 78 and if so, is it better, worse, or equal to the veritas version?

Thanks

Brilliant 👍

I purchased a Dowelmax a couple years ago and love it. My only complaint is that they don't sell a storage box/organizer for the system. I inquired about that with them and they suggested a generic solution available via Amazon -- which is an okay option. But the storage system you are using catches my eye. Can you share with us the brand and model of that great red box you are using? (Is it Milwaukee Packout?) And what do you think of it as a storage solution for your Dowelmax? Thanks.

It looks a great design for knee clamping too! Knee clampers have to get used to reaching over to grab the offcut anyway. It also looks excellent for sheet goods cuts. I’ve got a pair of narrow horses and I may convert one to an L shape to use it better solo.

I'm an occasional woodworker watching a furniture maker produce occasional UA-cam videos. Thanks Ryan,

👍

1) Mastering hand planes for natural wood board joinery not allowed any attachments, disregard planks length. 2) Tilting the plane L&R shifting thumb pressure and elbow tilting ( like batting in Criket or flight tail) and extra weight at front by thumb also back weight by handle hand are the technics need to master through years with fulltime work in the shop if want to be a true cabinet maker. 3) No tools to check the board length edge straight or not, but your carpentry Eye and board on board to check 100% seat , then corrections. Also claping two boards can say by the sound if sitting is perfect or not. Also when you shift the top board fmm L to R can notice the center pivoting point : which is the hi point need to level. 4) Above all continuous checking vertical perpendicular, keeping both long edges one on the the other n check with a steel 12" ruler is must . ( like the mason build 10- 15ft. hi walls check the vertical alignment bricks by bricks as it goes up) 5) Double boards planning is cheating, but it works well with short/ thin boards , or you have mastered it personally to extreme level would do.( I do only 0.5% per 3 months FT work) I wish all the best and courage to all the carpenters🙏🏼❤️

Why not check a lock washer or something on those fences? Maybe a brass lock washer. I imagine it's machined so well it doesn't hold. Or scuff up the bolt just a tad or buy a steel nut

Could this fixture be used on construction lumber like a 2 x 4 and 4 x 4, I only have hand tools, and I would like to build a workbench with a right joint with a 2 x 4 apron to 4 x 4 leg

Thanks for the review and posting. I am curious how this stuff works on "stained" items like an old Starrett rule that has pretty embedded rust staining.

I have a dowel max and I love it. Obviously you know what you're doing but you made the Dowel Max seem more complicated than any other video I've ever seen explaining the Dowel Max

Congratulations on discovering T-9! I'm a power AND hand tool dude, and have treated my table saw bed regularly with it. My routine is a light sanding with 400 grit on a hardwood block, wipe off the iron residue, and then a liberal coat of T-9 left overnight. The next day I wipe it clean and apply some wax. I've found the time between "need to do the saw bed" has increased with my use of T-9, so it seems to progressively build over time. It should work equally well on planes and chisels, but again recommend a 'soak' of it. Not sure I'd spend the money for special bit cleaner stuff. I use Simple Green and a toothbrush, and do the same on my sawblades. Works like a charm. Also/FYI - the fingerprints result from the salt and urea in your sweat, which just happens... it 'gently' etches the iron or steel. I don't mind those so much because (to me) it makes the tool look loved, like some of my dad's and grandfather's tools that are black/brown with patina... but won't rust anymore.

I tried T9 for several years on my cast iron table saw, jointer, and band saw tops and the protection never seemed to last very long even when the tools weren't in use. Fine Woodworking did a review on rust preventers and recommended CRC 3-36, so I gave it a shot. It lasted noticeably longer, and I've been really happy with it. I bought a 1 gallon bottle for $30 three years ago and put some in a spray bottle and small vintage sewing machine oil can (I use another filled with Jojoba oil for hand tools which works pretty well). Sadly the gallon size is now selling for 2x the price, so I may switch to only using Jojoba oil if I ever run out. (I'm not a fan of aerosols either!)

I’ve been using a product called Balistol for years. Hard to find, but it’s used heavily in the firearm and locksmith industries because it contains no silicone and doesn’t gum up. Works on metal and wood ( gun stocks), been around since WW1… curious if anyone else has tried it?

It stained my new Sawtop. I followed directions and didn’t spray directly on the top. 😢 But, has worked good on my bandsaw.

A dowel is no different then a loose tenon people take nomenclature to serious

I'm in the UK and I have used this product a few times. I say a few times as after a few uses nothing more comes out of the can! I had 2 can and both the same. They now sit on the shelf and look at me. About 4yrs now.... lol

Like you I have been very impressed with T-9 - even for household tasks like door hinges and such. Not messy and lasts a long time.

I tried these products and they worked moderately well for an unmoderated price.

I got my father in law some T9, we live in the UK and he has a draughty uninsulated garage for a workshop. Consequently, the ambient moisture in there is high, and he only uses it in the warmer months of the year. He found that 3 in 1 oil was not enough to protect the cast iron table on his bandsaw and he had to derust it every year in the spring. The T9 is very effective at stopping the rusting, he just puts a coat on every now and then, so the high price isn't much of an issue because it lasts ages.

I've tried T-9 and found it to leave a sticky residue.

I don’t suffer from OCD but I like to maintain my tools from the day I acquire them. I follow Paul Sellers and respect all of his knowledge and have always used his oil can for rust prevention. Living on the East coast of Canada and its humidity issues have never affected my tools. Tools should be used but not abused and it’s common to show some patina. I have a simple workshop not a museum and I use high end woodworking tools (power and hand) such as your bench planes and IBC chisels. No issues here but I keep chemicals to a minimum, especially the high priced ones you are demonstrating.

Stay lubed brother!!

class..

Rob Corman and Paul Sellers are some of my heroes as well! Hahah! Great job! I'm just starting out as well. Subscribing to help you out. ;)

Fabulous video, thanks.

Your killing me by working in metric. Just saying....

Thanks

I have watched this video a number of times. It has me stuck, for insperation. I have always loved Bugatti cars, so I feel, must use the some of the blue that was famously used on his son Ettore's cars. So you have set me a task, to find Buggati works. Furniture and design. It helps that my brother lives in France. Thank you for you passion. Yes I have a big problem with space as I have collected tools for many years. Like BCTW. Your saw till is a stunning example of art and need. I love you calm, must be the mountain air...

Very nice design, how did you secure the top to the legs?

Great job, thank you for sharing!

Great job! Thanks for sharing!

Viola!

Informative thanks. But what about that sideboard!!! Beautiful. I seem to recall you not being able to video that due to time constraints but that's a lovely piece.

I was not able to find the video on your shooting board. Did you take that down?

$345? I just ordered one off Amazon for $197.

Water based stains and lacquers are far easier to apply (HVLP) and look stunning for a much longer time in my experience. Oils and waxes may have some warmth you love for some period of time, but they fail too quickly IMO. If safety is your goal, water based is the way.