Відео

I know, so did I. Hens my disappointment. but I don't do anything in 1080 anymore, so 4k to the moon..... and back when we all have 8k oh my! It is here and now just most don't use it.

It takes pure compute power to do this type of work. As far as I'm aware, Apple does not have anything comparable to what I already own, let alone anything more powerful. And I would never pay that Apple premium regardless. But when a single GPU finally posses the power of six of these 4090's, maybe then this task won't be so painful. This video demo was a worst case scenario, usually I run between 8-11fps on a typical upscale and enhancement session. Running a dual enhancement as shown in the video really takes a toll.

I don't know. You have to compare the specs, I have no idea what meter you're talking about. If it's not the exact model I linked to then it's not the same thing I used in the video. This is the new version of what I have: amzn.to/4fQCFMk This is not an area you can cheat, the sensor is the most important part and it just costs what it costs.

Is i1 xrite display pro . Tge seller told me he purchase it in 2018

First, you have to watch the complete videos part 1 and part 2. It doesn't sound like you have. I don't use my TV in PC mode, you can if you want to, but I do not. It's up to you which mode you prefer. You manually adjust the TV settings regardless of mode, the TV stores these changes internally as you make them. If you are not sure which mode you like best, then just start with a 2 point white balance calibration and calibrate them all. To go between SDR/HDR, you have to enable/disable that in Windows on the PC itself. But again, just pick a mode and calibrate it, or just calibrate all modes and decide which one you like later. Everything thing you do here is entirely up to you, just pick and choose what looks best to you. ICC profiles only matter if you use your TV as a "dedicated" PC monitor. They are irrelevant otherwise.

I see the 1 video

@@raulcabronero5649 : ua-cam.com/play/PLIPWY-_PaDCyFveq21huuSryNFz3IxWVL.html The link for part 2 is directly in the video, in the description, in the first and only pinned comment. I put the link absolutely everywhere that a link can be posted! Click on my channel for a ton of other video links, or simply do a search on my channel if you want something specific. There are a lot of options available to find what you seek.

Here is the android version: play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.argyllpro.colormeter&hl=en_US

Same here. This is my first grab anytime I need to solder. Cheers 🍻

Yes, they remain open.

Yes, I talked about it in part 4 below: ua-cam.com/video/7FVBTRmLE2A/v-deo.htmlsi=QjNgBFcU8Lm_1TWb I can't do it without active power factor regulation. That's how big generators do it and I thought I could cheat that somehow. Lol...... I was wrong!

Clearly you've missed the entire point of this video.

Cheers 🍻

Honestly, and surprisingly, I'm not really against a mandatory emissions standard or a mandatory inspection/test of compliance. However, I am against paying for any of it! Without some sort of state or federal emission control, people will drive the nastiest shit spewing turds imaginable. I'm sure you've seen some. I very much like to breath clean air and I don't want to get stuck behind something that spews clouds of black shit that I have to breath until I can pass the thing! Again, I'm sure you've seen what I'm talking about. That's how it used to be here in PA until the emission laws were passed! So I'm really all for emission laws, everything but cost of coarse. Cheers 🍻

Because this is my Mother Fucking channel and I'mma say whatever the fuck I want..... Any fucking way I choose! Did I use my 1st amendment correctly? 𝐅𝐮𝐜𝐤𝐢𝐧-𝐀-𝐑𝐢𝐠𝐡𝐭 𝐈 𝐃𝐢𝐝! Don't like it? Don't watch. Dirt simple!

Of coarse not.... When was the last time 'anything' was "Made In The USA"? All we make here in the US is make-believe. Our #1 GDP is fucking paper lol!

@@Finite-Tuning Thanks.. I have a generator and the panel is screwed in to small plastic tabs which break after vibration.. Crap from china. Cant find an american made Gen. :(

@@dennissilverstein5677 : Yeah, I feel your pain. Not with this generator, but with plenty of other things! A hardware store and a dremel tool is probably the best bet in your case. Good luck! Cheers 🍻

Oh yes it is! You're not watching on something capable of HDR.

@@Finite-Tuning yes I am, Samsung S9. I have other videos playing in HDR no issues

@@bapt_andthebasses : There's your problem! Watch it on a real computer or real TV as it was meant to be seen, and yes it is HDR. Not all browsers are HDR capable either. Firefox will not play this in HDR, but MS Edge does.

@@Finite-Tuning I just checked with someone who has an iPhone 15 Pro Max which is also HDR capable. Your video isn't playing as HDR. We checked several videos and they play as HDR without issues

@@bapt_andthebasses: Well then the simple solution is to just download it. I gave everyone a direct link to this uncompressed file for those that want the best video and audio quality. Here's the link: drive.google.com/file/d/1uETumy_wIYet_TpRVS_9ju2kL4czCevr/view?usp=sharing I assure you, it is the exact same file I uploaded to youtube, and it absolutely is HDR with Dobly Atmos, but then youtube compresses it and strips bits, so it's never really the same as the original. But now you have the original file, simply unzip and enjoy! Cheers 🍻

You ain't doing any kind of enhancement in 4K with those numbers! 720 is nothing, I can do over 1000fps with that child's play! 1080 is still nothing, I can do better than real time renders. Do as shown in the video, then watch your system grind to a halt.

Nothing new about what I'm doing here. I have years worth of invoices to show how much I've already paid!

I am aware, but they are not yet in my way so I kept them in place. If I ever have to pull the tank, I will re-evaluate this decision then.

Because it's really really good! Cheers 🍻

Cheers 🍻

Years later update video -- ua-cam.com/video/oJNTXhbgYIU/v-deo.html

Your the second person to say that now, but do you know which rotor is backwards? It would have been nice if the rotors were labeled (L) / (R)! And I did look closely before installing them, there are no markings, no paper work, no thing to indicate direction or side. But in this case it just doesn't matter, the direction is only for water shed and I have no dust shields anymore. Just as I have no more care for this car anymore, it has reached end of life for me. Still curious to know which rotor you think is backwards. Cheers 🍻

@@Finite-Tuning well the rotors do have a direction but that direction should always point to the back not the front and the reason for that is that you want the wind to cut into the rotor to cool it down not the rotor to cut into the wind.

@@petertowers9579: The rotors that are backwards are on the rear. I didn't notice until the other guy mentioned the same thing. This was supposed to be a simple brake job but turned into a project. I didn't know I had a stuck caliper, or that my parking brake shoes were flopping around in the wind, or that a single flake of rust was all that was left to hold my dust shields on the car. By the time I dealt with some of that I just wasn't paying much attention to the rotor direction. Probably half the rotors out there only fit one side, that's why I checked these for markings as there is usually stamped (L) or (R) on the hub or outer edge of the rotor. These had nothing at all. And it is kind of a duh factor which way they should go, I just wasn't thinking about it at the time. I totally missed it! But the direction is about water shed, not air flow. It's not the chamfered holes, but the slots them selves that make these directional. In one direction the slots can potentially scoop water inward towards the hub, in the opposite direction they sling water away. If they scoop water and sling it towards the hub, a spinning hub will sling it right back and the cycle repeats keeping the rotors wetter than normal. Which in my case doesn't matter since I don't have dust shields anymore, my brakes will always be soaked in the rain. On the flip side though, the rears are installed correctly for high speed reverse driving 😁. So it's kinda perfect if you look at it that way lol. Anyway, good eye! You're only the second one that noticed direction. Cheers 🍻

@@Finite-Tuning go back and look and the 9 min. Mark those rotors are pointing forward ⏪ meaning towards the front when they should be pointing backwards ⏩ towards the back of the car. Now if you did not notice that means you just don't know. Cheers 🥂

Easier to just unplug it.

Yes. Here is the play list: ua-cam.com/play/PLIPWY-_PaDCyJz32-aawvlISlu6VBqGFm.html

The only thing I adjust in HDR is white balance, and that procedure is exactly the same as SDR. I've always meant to dive into the the HDR side of this but never got around to it. If doing the stranded 2 point calibration, all you need are HDR color samples which can be found online for free, I'm not sure if the program has any built in, I never got around to the HDR deep dive. But MadVR can use 3d luts, and Jriver is the only MS Windows video player I'm aware of that uses MadVR. But I only white balance for HDR since that is 90+% of the whole spectrum. And white is still just white, but make sure HDR is active before making any adjustment to your white balance.

@@Finite-Tuning thx a lot

@@m.m.3753 : Just an addendum here. But if you are concerned with 2 point 10 point or 20 point adjustment on your TV screen, no luts are required. But if you really want to create a lut, then MadVR is the only MS windows based software I know of that can use it, and Jriver is the only media player I know of that uses MadVR. Hope that makes sense. Cheers 🍻

@@Finite-Tuning i dont use MadVR only want an HDR icc for my TV.

@@Finite-Tuning tried your Settings with rec. 1886... on SDR PC for gaming with my LED TV. Awesome!!!!

There is little difference in my opinion between any of the upscaling AI models, aside from the amount of manual control available. The total amount of time depends on the frame rate of the video and your choice of a single or a double enhancement. A typical 24 fps video using a single enhancement for upscaling, I'll normally run between 8 and 11 fps. So worst case scenario for me on a 24p video is 3 seconds of render time for every 1 second of upscaled video. A 30 or 60 fps video will naturally take longer to render. A typical 1.5 hr long movie normally takes 4.5 - 5 hours to render if only using a single enhancement. But if you use a double enhancement as shown in this video here, that movie took 20 hours if memory serves. In hind sight, I should have just rendered the video 2 separate times with a different model each time. It would have only taken half the amount of time in total. It's just a lot of work to upscale video like this, every program capable of doing the job just takes forever to do it. And too, the more you watch the clock the longer it will take! Cheers 🍻

@@Finite-Tuning IMO that’s actually really good, currently on my iMac (i9 9900k 48GB ram, Radeon 575x GPU) I’m only able to do a 2X upscale on 480p content with proteus and doubling frame rate, that takes about 3 and a half hours. Upscaling to higher than 720p takes 8 hours minimum, and 1080p to 4K I’m looking at 24+ hours. I’m currently looking to build a high end pc with a 13900k CPU, 64GB ram, and a 4060ti super with 16gb vram, from the research I’ve done the extra vram doesn’t increase render times but it does give you room to run multiple instances at once (depending on the settings of course).

@@zenvultra: Spend your money on the GPU if this is what you are trying to do with a computer. GPU matters more then CPU from my experience, and I'll spell it out real quick so you know where I'm coming from. I have all Intel based systems, I've run Topaz Video AI on all of them. If using the processor alone to render/upscale video, .8 fps is a good number on an i9 13900K! My laptop 12th gen i9 is far slower, then my desktop 9th gen i7 is even slower still. But when using the GPU's, I have a desktop 2070, a laptop 3080ti, and a desktop 4090. By far the 4090 produces the best render times, followed by the 3080 then the 2070. The GPU is were you should focus the bulk of your money "if" video upscaling/rendering is your primary task. But this is just a really hard job for any hardware, so always buy the absolute most hardware you can afford. If you need to save money for another month to afford it, then do that! Because buying less than the best you can afford only leads to regret. I bought the best of the best at the time on the market, and I'm still disappointed in the performance! But I have no regrets about getting the best thing available at that time to do this job. Cheers and good luck 🍻

I see it... Keep safe and this generator will keep you powered. Cheers 🍻

@@Finite-Tuning thank you!! 🙏🏽

I’m in Crosby, been running mine for going on 5 days now.

How long can you consistently run it for before you need to give it a break? I've had mine for 4 years and never used it. About to get it connected to the house. I just read a bunch of reviews and saw so many complaints. Any tips suggestions for a newbie? I'm also from Houston. Thanks for the video!

@@joshuabaggio1982: If you've never run it, I'd recommend to just test it out on propane quick, make sure everything is working, then let it run about 1 hr to break in the engine. Then do an oil change because there will be metal in it. Break in happens quickly, contrary to popular belief. You'll be 80% of the way broken in with just the first 15 minutes of run time. The rest will happen over time with heat cycling. Be as fussy as you can afford with your oil changes until all the metal is flushed out and looks clean with a flashlight (no sparkles/glitter). Then, switch over to full synthetic oil. Then you can run it forever pretty much, just keep it cool and full of fuel. I keep an 18" fan on mine in the summer and highly recommend you do the same. I never let the generator itself get hotter than what I can hold my hand on, which for me is about 200 degrees (f). If yours gets much hotter then that, I would add more air flow. And here below is my playlist on this generator in case there is anything I forgot to mention. ua-cam.com/play/PLIPWY-_PaDCyJz32-aawvlISlu6VBqGFm.html

This video is about a bypass, not a repair. You have to diagnose your problem. Does the engine spin by hand yes/no? If no then you know where to investigate further. Does the engine spin if you manually power the starter yes/no? If yes then your problem is upstream and likely electrical in nature.

@@Finite-Tuning yes it spins by hand.

@@Asanch79 : And the starter? Did you energize it, does it spin the engine?

@Finite-Tuning it'll spin but will not start. Unfortunately, i have spent money on repairs. New battery. New starter. New solenoid. New switches. New ignition switch. New fuel pump.

@@Asanch79 : This is why we test first, prove second, replace third, specifically in that order! Will the engine start on starting fluid?

Thank you!

I've been nothing but thrilled with this kit, I'll buy them again in a heart beat no hesitation, they've seriously been great! I've had to replace yet another caliper since I made this video, but not the brakes. I'll try for tomorrow to make a short update video on these, I'm not pulling wheels, but I should be able to get in pretty close to see. I have no problem with brake dust, or squealing, or anything else. I think these are incredible bang for the buck.

@@Finite-Tuning thank you

@@1Deejay7: I got to it pretty early this morning, the video is still processing but done enough to watch. Here is the update: ua-cam.com/video/oJNTXhbgYIU/v-deo.html